Calaveras, calacas, catrins, and catrinas, oh my! (Click images to enlarge.)
In the city and villages, walls and windows, sitting and standing, happy and sad — they are everywhere in Oaxaca!
Archive for the ‘Holidays’ Category
Calaveras, calacas, catrins & catrinas
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Holidays, Travel & Tourism, tagged calacas, calaveras, catrin, Catrinas, Day of the Dead, Día de los Muertos, Día de Muertos, Mexico, Oaxaca, photos, popular travel destinations, skeletons, skulls on October 30, 2019| 5 Comments »
Twas the night before Independence Day
Posted in Celebrations, Culture, Holidays, Travel & Tourism, tagged Día de la Independencia, decorative lighting, El Grito, El Mes de la Patria, Grito de Dolores, Mexican Independence Day, Mexico, Oaxaca, Palacio de Gobierno, patriotic decorations, photos, popular travel destinations, Señorita América, zócalo kiosk on September 16, 2019| 2 Comments »
Overnight, as the calendar page turned from August to September, green, white, and red appeared around the city. The colors of the Mexican flag festooned buildings — both public and private and flags began flying from rooftops.
Papel picado hanging above Plazuela Labastida.
Vendor carts, selling all things patriotic, noisy, and green, white, and red, began appearing on busy street corners and green, white, and red lights were strung above major streets and in the zócalo. September is El Mes de Patria — an entire month of celebrating Mexico’s independence from Spain.
Kiosk in the zócalo.
September 16 is Día de la Independencia (Independence Day) marking Don Miguel Hidalgo y Costilla’s call to arms (Grito de Dolores) announcing the start of a ten-year long war for independence. However, all over Mexico, re-enactments “El Grito” (the Cry of Dolores) are staged at 11:00 PM on September 15 — by mayors from municipal city halls, governors from state building balconies, and by the President of Mexico from the the National Palace. September 16 is marked with military parades.
Camera scaffolding in front of Oaxaca’s Government Palace.
As an article in yesterday’s El Imparcial proudly proclaimed, Oaxaqueños like Antonio de León, Carlos María Bustamante, José María Murguía y Galardi, and Manuel Sabino Crespo “contributed their sacrifice and courage to the creation of a free, sovereign and guaranteed homeland.” (my translation) By the way, for those who live in or have visited Oaxaca: Do those names ring a bell?
Señorita América on her way to sing the Himno Nacional (Mexican National Anthem) in the zócolo after the governor gives the Grito.
Last night’s Grito was the first given by Mexico’s new President, Andreas Manuel Lopez Obrador (aka, AMLO). The media pointed out that he gave 20 “Vivas” from the balcony of the Palacio Nacional, while his predecessor only gave 11. Among the added “Long live’s” were, “¡Vivan las comunidades indígenas!” and “¡Viva la grandeza cultural de México!”
Long live the independence! Long live Miguel Hidalgo y Costilla! Long live Morelos! Long live Josefa Ortiz de Domínguez! Long live Ignacio Allende! Long live Leona Vicar! Long live anonymous heroes! Long live the heroic people of Mexico! Long live the indigenous communities! Long live freedom! Long live justice! Long live democracy! Long live our sovereignty! Long live the universal fraternity! Long live peace! Long live the cultural greatness of Mexico! Long live Mexico! Long live Mexico! Long live Mexico!
And, there was more Oaxaca pride present in the nation’s capital as the Banda del Centro de Capacitación Musical y Desarrollo (CECAM), a youth band from the Mixe village of Santa María Tlahuitoltepec, Oaxaca, performed following the Grito.
From rags to Tiliches
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Exhibitions, Holidays, Travel & Tourism, tagged Carnaval, Carnival, exhibition, Hemoeroteca Néstor Sanchez, library, Los viejos, photos, Putla Villa de Guerrero, recycled plastic, Tiliches on August 6, 2019| 11 Comments »
Remember these guys from my Everyone loves a parade post? They are known as Tiliches (aka, Los viejos, old ones) are a staple in the 3-day celebration of Carnaval in Putla de Guerrero, and a colorful part of the delegation from Putla during La Guelaguetza. Seeing them, it should come as no surprise that “tiliche” can be translated into English to mean junk, stuff, or rag.
Entering this year’s Festival de los Moles at the Jardín Etnobotánico de Oaxaca (Oaxaca Ethnobotanic Garden), guests were greeted by an exhibition of Tiliches — hosted by the newspaper archive, Hemoeroteca Néstor Sanchez.
Viejo de Tiliches – wearing the traditional costume of the Viejos/Tiliches during Carnaval in Putla.
Made of cloth, palm, and gourd with a mask of animal skin, suede gloves, and leather boots. It took one person a week to make.
Viejo Tapitas
Made from plastic water and soda bottle caps and hat of rafia. It took two people 45 days to make for a Carnaval 2018 costume contest in Putla and it weighs 30 kg. (66 lbs.)
Viejo Mecatero
Designed by Ángel Álvarez de Jesús and made from plastic rope, plastic thread, cardboard and silicone. It took seven people 45 days to make for the 2019 costume contest in Putla. It weighs 60 kg. (132 lbs.)
Viejo Azteca
Designed by Amando Herrera Villa and made of palm. It took him two months to make and weighs 15 kg. (33 lbs.)
The creativity here never ceases to amaze me. Unfortunately, the exhibition only ran from July 15 to 30, 2019. What fun it would be to go to Putla for their three day Carnaval celebration — where one can see hundreds of Tiliches dancing though the streets!
Workin’ for a livin’ in Oaxaca
Posted in Celebrations, Culture, Flora, Food, Holidays, Travel & Tourism, tagged agave fields, castillo, construction workers, Día de los Trabajadores, Día del Trabajo, Día Internacional de los Trabajadores, International Workers' Day, labor, Labour Day, May Day, Mexico, mezcal palenque, Oaxaca, photos, vendors, workers on May 1, 2019| 6 Comments »
Happy International Workers Day!
Food vendors at the mercado in Teotitlán del Valle
Fireworks castillo builders in Oaxaca de Juárez
Flower vendor in the Villa de Zaachila market
Teamsters unloading maguey piñas near Santiago Matatlán
Snack vendor on market day in Tlacolula de Matamoros
Construction worker preparing a new roof, Oaxaca de Juárez
Life… brought to you by the workers of the world.
Preparing for the silence
Posted in Celebrations, Churches, Culture, Holidays, Religion, Travel & Tourism, tagged Easter, estandartes, Good Friday, Holy Week, Jesus, Mexico, Oaxaca, Pascuas, photos, Procesión del Silencio, Procession of Silence, religious banners, Viernes Santo, Virgin Mary on April 20, 2019| 2 Comments »
Late afternoon on Viernes Santo (Good Friday), images of Jesús and María gathered, blessings were offered, and all began to assemble on the Alcalá for the Procession of Silence.
Inside Templo de la Preciosa Sangre de Cristo, as the Archbishop called upon the people to reflect on the day and improve as people.
Nuestra Señora de la Soledad (Our Lady of Solitude) arrives to take her place on the procession route.
Standard bearers line the Alcalá to honor the arrival of the images of María and Jesús.
San Pedro (Saint Peter), the only apostle to arrive.
Jesús waiting in the Templo del Carmen Alto before he ventures out to take his place in the procession.
Another Jesús image emerges from the Templo del Carmen Alto to take his place on the Alcalá for the procession.
El Señor de Esquipulas ventures out onto Calle García Vigil, from the atrium of Templo del Carmen Alto, for his journey to join the procession on the Alcalá.
And now, please keep silent, the procession is approaching.
And so it begins…
Posted in Celebrations, Churches, Culture, Holidays, Religion, Travel & Tourism, tagged Christianit, Easter, Good Friday, Holy Mother, Holy Week, La Virgen María, Mexico, Pascuas, photos, popular travel destinations, religious images, Semana Santa, Viernes Santo, Virgin Mary on April 19, 2019| 2 Comments »
The sounds of this morning’s Santo Viacrusis (Stations of the Cross) moving closer, brought me into the mostly deserted streets before 9:00 AM.
A block away, I found Jesús, La Virgen María, a priest, acolytes, the faithful, and a loudspeaker on the back of a pickup truck.
Led by the children, images of María and Jesús from churches throughout the city had taken to the streets.
Stopping along the way to pray and sing, the solemn throng made their way to the Cathedral for a farewell encounter between Mary and Jesus.
It will be a long day for all concerned. Following the encuentro, they will process back to their churches for a bit of a rest before this evening’s grand Procession of Silence.
Heavy lifting
Posted in Celebrations, Culture, Holidays, Religion, Travel & Tourism, tagged Christianity, Domingo de Palmas, Domingo de Ramos, Holy Week, men carrying platform, Mexico, Oaxaca, Palm Sunday photos, popular travel destinations, religious celebrations, San Antonino Castillo Velasco, Semana Santa on April 17, 2019| Leave a Comment »
It takes 30+ men, doing some heavy lifting, to carry San Salvador, his burro, and Palm Sunday bounty the kilometer between San Antonino Castillo Velasco’s cemetery and village church.
The strength of their devotion.
Trip to Palm Sunday bountiful
Posted in Celebrations, Culture, Holidays, Religion, Travel & Tourism, tagged animals, Christianity, Domingo de Palmas, Domingo de Ramos, fruit, herbs, Holy Week, Jesus, livestock, Mexico, Oaxaca, Palm Sunday, photos, popular travel destinations, religious celebrations, San Antonino Castillo Velasco, San Salvador, San Salvador image, Semana Santa on April 15, 2019| 15 Comments »
Yesterday was another special Domingo de Ramos (Palm Sunday) in San Antonino Castillo Velasco. This is a Zapotec village famous for the cultivation of flowers and exquisitely embroidered blouses and dresses, inspired by said flowers. Returning year-after-year, I never cease to be uplifted by the warmth of the people and the bounty they bring to the image of San Salvador sitting atop his little burro outside the panteón. The best of their fruits, vegetables, herbs, livestock, clothing, flowers, and much more are gratefully received by a committee, priced, and later-in-the-day, sold to raise money for a designated project.
A little after noon, San Salvador (his burro now filled to the brim), offerings, and the faithful were blessed by the priest. Fireworks exploded, rhythmic sounds of the traditional teponaxtles (drums) and chirimía (small oboe) sounded, and led by a trail of bougainvillea bracts and the smoke of copal, the litter of San Salvador atop the burro and carried by 30+ men, set off on a journey to the atrium of the church. They were followed by villagers and visitors carrying the remainder of the goods collected — a ritual reenactment of the Biblical story of Jesus entering Jerusalem to celebrate the Passover.
The procession successfully navigated overhead wires above and heeded warnings of “topes” (speed bumps) below. A kilometer down this perilous route, San Salvador and the faithful, young and old, approached the atrium of the church, San Salvador was set on the stage where an outdoor mass was to be said, and on the opposite side, the hand-and-head-carried offerings were to be sold. I cannot begin to express how warm and welcoming the people of San Antonino Castillo Velasco were. Wearing a blusa from San Antonino, that I purchased several years ago, I was smiled upon and, as I was taking photos, officials and other villagers ushered me to the front. Again, I ask, how many magical moments can one person have?
Friday of Sorrows
Posted in Celebrations, Churches, Creativity, Culture, Holidays, Religion, Travel & Tourism, tagged animal figurines, Chia Pets, cucharilla, Día de la virgen de Dolores, flowers, Holy Week, lilies, Mexico, Oaxaca, Our Lady of Sorrows, photos, Semana Santa, virgen de dolores, Virgin of Sorrows on April 12, 2019| 2 Comments »
Today, the sixth Friday of Lent, Oaxaca honors la Virgen de Dolores (Our Lady of Sorrows). Altars dedicated to her can be found in churches, businesses, and homes. While the altars vary in their presentation, there are several key features (besides an image of the Virgin and candles) that will be found.
Altar to la Virgen de Dolores at Templo del Carmen Alto
Wreaths of cucharilla (aka, Dasylirion, Sotol, desert spoon) — grown in Villa de Etla and the Mixtec region of Oaxaca — represent the crown of thorns of Jesus.
Salvia Hispanica (aka, chia) sprouting from terracotta clay animals decorate altars — seeds which had been blessed on February 2, Día de la Candelaria (Candlemas). According to an article in MexConnect, “Growing greens remind the viewer of the resurrection and renewal of life.” Yes, these are the original Chia Pets!
Ceramic deer covered in chia sprouts on the altar at Templo del Carmen Alto
Bowls of water (often tinted) representing the “sweet tears of Mary” are set among violet colored drapes and flowers — violet being the color associated with Lent.
Altar to la Virgen de Dolores at Huizache, a cooperative store selling Oaxacan crafts and clothing
Lilies, representing purity and chamomile, representing humility and the beauty of body and soul, can be found on altars.
Lilies and chamomile on the altar at Templo del Carmen Alto
According to this article (in Spanish), altars to Our Lady of Sorrows started appearing in Oaxaca in the sixteenth century and her veneration on the sixth Friday of Lent grew from there.
La Virgen de Dolores (Our Lady of Sorrows) at Templo del Carmen Alto
Tonight at Templo del Carmen Alto, there will be a reading of the “Vía Dolorosa” (Way of Sorrows), a concert of sacred music by the Coro de la Ciudad (City Chorus), and a tasting of regional Lenten food. Such is the beginning of Semana Santa (Holy Week) in Oaxaca!
Carnaval is coming
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Holidays, Travel & Tourism, tagged Barrio de San Pablo Zaachila, Carnaval, Carnival, costumes, Fat Tuesday, Mardi Gras, mascaras, masks, men dressed as women, Mexico, Muestra de Carnavales de los Valles Centrales, Oaxaca, painted bodies, parade, photos, San Jacinto Chilateca, San Martín Tilcajete, Santa Ana Zegache, Santa María Coyotepec, Shrove Tuesday on March 3, 2019| 2 Comments »
Given that Oaxaca loves parades and processions (the numbers of Muertos comparsas and Guelaguetza desfiles seem to grow every year), yesterday the 1st Muestra de Carnavales de los Valles Centrales took over the Macedonio Alcalá walking street with costumes, devils, painted bodies, cowbells, bands, masked men, mezcal, and more.
Santa Ana Zegache
Santa Ana Zegache
In an effort to promote tourism in the villages, residents and visitors were treated to sampling the variety of Carnaval traditions from five of the Valley of Oaxaca’s communities.
San Jacinto Chilteca
San Jacinto Chilteca
The Spanish brought the tradition of Carnaval to Mexico. However, like many other seasonal celebrations, it conveniently coincided with indigenous festivals celebrating the “lost days” of the Mesoamerican calendar, “when faces were covered to repel or confuse evil.”
Santa María Coyotepec
Santa María Coyotepec
Apparently, it caught on “because it was one time when normal rules could be broken especially with the use of masks to hide identities from the authorities.”
Barrio de San Pablo Zaachila
Barrio de San Pablo Zaachila
This Día de Carnaval (aka, Fat Tuesday, Mardi Gras, Shrove Tuesday, Carnival), like previous years, we will be heading out to San Martín Tilcajete.
San Martín Tilcajete
San Martín Tilcajete
However, now I’m thinking we might want to add another stop (or four?) to our itinerary. We shall see…
Love and Friendship
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Holidays, Travel & Tourism, tagged balloons, Día del Amor y la Amistad, hearts, Mexico, papel picado, photos, Valentine's Day on February 13, 2019| Leave a Comment »
The signs of Valentine’s Day are everywhere…
Ready for the fiesta on the patio of my apartment complex.
Tin hearts on display at the Museo Estatal de Arte Popular de Oaxaca (MEAPO) shop in San San Bartolo Coyotepec.
While it may be a holiday imported from Europe, Mexico embraces the celebration.
Dining room ceiling of Los Huamuches, between Santo Tomás Jalieza and San Martín Tilcajete.
Balloons on the zócalo in Oaxaca de Juárez.
Wishing you ¡Feliz Día del Amor y la Amistad!
Bougainvillea on a cross at the palenque of Faustino García Vásquez, San Baltazar Chichicápam.
Ready for the fiesta on the patio of my apartment complex.
Happy Day of Love and Friendship to all!
Looking back at 2018
Posted in Casita Colibrí, Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Holidays, Travel & Tourism, tagged Año Nuevo, aprons, Cathedral, ceramic pottery, cooking school, El Sabor Zapoteco, ENBIA, Feria del Barro Rojo, full moon, Fundación En Via, girls, jewelry, José Jorge García García, Las Sanjuaneras, mandiles, Mexico, mezcal, microfinance tours, murals, New Year's Eve, Oaxaca, Palenque, photos, pistachio tree, protests, Rancho 314, Reyna Mendoza Ruiz, San Baltazar Chichicapam, San Juan Colorado, San Marcos Tlapazola, San Miguel del Valle, Señor del Rayo, textiles, Tlacolula de Matamoros, Tlacolulokos, urban farms, Waje, weavers, zócalo on December 30, 2018| 10 Comments »
Looking back and appreciating life in Oaxaca, 2018.
January – View through the terrace pistachio tree of full Wolf Moon.
February – Guest helping to harvest Waje dinner at Rancho 314 urban farm in Santa Cruz Xoxocotlán.
March – Reyna Mendoza Ruiz demonstrating metate technique at El Sabor Zapoteco cooking class in Teotitlán del Valle.
April – Pit for cooking agave piñas to make mezcal at the palenque of Faustino Garcia in San Baltazar Chichicapa(m).
May – Tlacolulokos mural in Tlacolula de Matamoros.
June – Summer afternoon on the Zócalo in Oaxaca city.
July – Feria del Barro Rojo in San Marcos Tlapazola.
August – Fundación En Via microfinance tour to San Miguel del Valle.
September – Protest by students from the Escuela Normal Bilingüe e Intercultural de Oaxaca.
October – Celebrating el Señor del Rayo at the Catedral de Nuestra Señora de la Asunción.
November – At the home/workshop of filigree maestro, José Jorge García García.
December – Pop-up sale in Oaxaca city by the Las Sanjuaneras weavers from San Juan Colorado.
Feliz año nuevo y muchisimas gracias to all my wonderful blog readers from near and far! Thank you for reading, for commenting, for sharing, for the opportunity to meet some of you, and for inspiring me to continue. Onward to 2019!!!
Christmas Eve in el norte
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Holidays, Music, Travel & Tourism, tagged 'Twas the Night Before Christmas, Christmas decorations, Christmas ornaments, Christmas traditions, Eduardo Guerrero, Ernie Villarreal, Mexico, Oaxaca, Pancho Claus, photos, poem, popular travel destinations on December 24, 2018| 9 Comments »
‘Tis Christmas Eve and I’m in el norte. A light snow is falling and all are excited.
Ornaments from Oaxaca hang alongside those passed down through four generations — and the newly collected continue the one-new-ornament-a-year tradition.
My grandson is keeping a close eye on Santa’s progress around the globe. While awaiting the arrival of our late night visitor, it is time for Ernie Villarreal’s version of Pancho Claus by Chicano music legend, Eduardo “Lalo” Guerrero.
Pancho Claus
‘Twas the night before Christmas and all through la casa
Not a creature was stirring, Caramba! ¿Que pasa?
Los ninos were all tucked away in their camas,
Some in vestidos and some in pajamas.
While Mama worked late in her little cocina,
El viejo was down at the corner cantina.
The stockings were hanging con mucho cuidado,
In hopes that St. Nicholas would feel obligado
To bring all the children, both buenos y malos,
A Nice batch of dulces and other regalos.
Outside in the yard, there arouse such a grito,
That I jumped to my feet, like a frightened cabrito.
I went to the window and looked out afuera,
And who in the world, do you think que era?
Saint Nick in a sleigh and a big red sombrero
Came dashing along like a crazy bombero!
And pulling his sleigh instead of venados,
Were eight little burros approaching volados.
I watched as they came, and this little hombre
Was shouting and whistling and calling by nombre.
¡Ay, Pancho! ¡Ay, Pepe! ¡Ay, Cuca! ¡Ay, Beto!
¡Ay, Chato!
¡¡Ay, Chopo! ¡Maruca and ¡Nieto!
Then standing erect with his hand on his pecho
He flew to the top of our very own techo.
With his round little belly like a bowl of jalea,
He struggled to squeeze down our old chimenea.
Then huffing and puffing, at last in our sala,
With soot smeared all over his red suit de gala.
He filled the stockings with lovely regalos,
For none of the children had been very malos.
Then chuckling aloud and seeming contento,
He turned like a flash and was gone like the viento.
And I heard him exclaim and this is VERDAD,
Merry Christmas to all, And to All ¡Feliz Navidad!
The radishes are coming
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Exhibitions, Holidays, Travel & Tourism, tagged dried corn husks, dried flowers, flor inmortal, Mexico, Night of the Radishes, Noche de Rabanos, Oaxaca, photos, popular travel destinations, Totomoxtle on December 22, 2018| 4 Comments »
It’s December 22 and in Oaxaca that means it’s Noche de Rábanos eve. Despite the name, it’s not just about radishes. Tomorrow morning, on tables lining the Zócalo, radishes will be carved and arranged, totomoxtle (corn husk) figures will be staged, and flor inmortal (dried flowers) scenes will be set. Beginning in the early afternoon and lasting late into the night, residents and visitors will parade along elevated walkways to view the detailed and fantastical creations on display in this only-in-Oaxaca holiday event.
These aren’t your grandparents radishes; they are a variety that is specially cultivated for their starring role — sometimes growing to 20 inches long and weighing in at 7 pounds. Alas, I’m in el norte spending the holidays with my family. So, I will just have to look back through previous Noche de Rábanos blog posts to get into the radishy spirit.
FYI: Blogger buddy Chris will be there to record this year’s action, so be sure to check out Oaxaca- The Year After in the next couple of days.
Leaping for Guadalupe
Posted in Celebrations, Culture, Holidays, Travel & Tourism, tagged Danza de la Pluma, danzantes, Día de la Virgen de Guadalupe, Mexico, Oaxaca, photos, Teotitlán del Valle, Virgen de Guadalupe on December 13, 2018| 12 Comments »
Yesterday, we said farewell to the Teotitlán del Valle, Danza de la Pluma Promesa 2016-2018 guys — and two little gals.
El Día de la Virgen de Guadalupe marked the end of this group’s three-year commitment to dance for their faith and community.
With well over one thousand family, friends, community members, and visitors watching, they danced their hearts out.
And, after the skips, squats, twists, and leaps ended, there was nary a dry eye in the house. It was a fabulous night!
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