Even if it looks like the world is crumbling around you…
On Reforma, at the corner of Constitucion in Oaxaca — courtesy of The Positive Affect project.
Archive for the ‘Culture’ Category
Smile more
Posted in Buildings, Creativity, Culture, Travel & Tourism, tagged abandoned buildings, crumbling buildings, graffiti, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, street art, The Positive Affect, urban art, wall art on May 9, 2018| Leave a Comment »
¡Que milagro!
Posted in Celebrations, Culture, Holidays, Religion, Travel & Tourism, tagged construction workers, Day of the Holy Cross, Día de la Santa Cruz, Día del Albañil, labor, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, sidewalks, stonemasons on May 3, 2018| Leave a Comment »
Today is Día de la Santa Cruz (Day of the Holy Cross). Lest anyone forget, there have been booms and bangs throughout the day to remind one and all! And, most years, the day finds me huffing and puffing my way up to the top of Picacho, the sacred mountain that looms above Teotitlán del Valle — joining the Zapotec villagers in a Prehispanic ritual asking for rain.
It is also the Día del Abañil (Day of the mason/stonemason/bricklayer) and it is tradition for workers to erect crosses festooned with flowers at the highest point on construction sites. According to Mexconnect, in 1960, Pope John XXIII removed Día de la Santa Cruz from the liturgical calendar, but Mexico being Mexico and construction workers being construction workers, they ignored the Pope. Eventually, understanding the relationship of forces, he gave Mexico a special dispensation to celebrate this day.
For me, today the city brought a much welcomed surprise. As anyone who has traversed the first block of Garcia Vigil (between Independencia and Morelos) during the past nine months can attest, it has been a challenge not to slip, trip, or fall thanks to the warped “temporary” plywood laid down over what used to be a solid, if not smooth, sidewalk. However, on this day celebrating abañiles, they were hard at work on a new “real” sidewalk!
No cross on the worksite, but definitely a Día de la Santa Cruz/Día del Albañil miracle!
Celebrating workers
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Exhibitions, Holidays, Museums, People, Travel & Tourism, tagged art, artists, Día de los Trabajadores, Día del Trabajo, Día Internacional de los Trabajadores, Diego Rivera, International Workers' Day, labor, May Day, Mexico, Mexico City, murals, paintings, photographs, photos, Secretaría de Educación Pública, Secretariat of Public Education, workers on May 1, 2018| 2 Comments »
Today is International Workers’ Day, also known as May Day, and in cities and towns all over the world (except the USA, but that’s another story), workers and the dignity of the work they do is being celebrated. It’s a federal holiday in Mexico and as I write, I can hear loudspeakers from the various marches taking place in Oaxaca city. Given that non-citizens are forbidden by the Mexican Constitution from participating in political activity, I’m staying home. However, to honor the workers of the world, I’m looking back to my visit to the Secretaría de Educación Pública (Secretariat of Public Education) building in Mexico City and the murals of Diego Rivera.
…Let the winds lift your banners from far lands
With a message of strife and of hope:
Raise the Maypole aloft with its garlands
That gathers your cause in its scope….
…Stand fast, then, Oh Workers, your ground,
Together pull, strong and united:
Link your hands like a chain the world round,
If you will that your hopes be requited.
When the World’s Workers, sisters and brothers,
Shall build, in the new coming years,
A lair house of life—not for others,
For the earth and its fulness is theirs.
Walter Crane, The Workers’ Maypole, 1894
¡Feliz Día del Trabajo a tod@s! Happy International Workers’ Day to all!
Happy Day of the Child
Posted in Celebrations, Children, Culture, Holidays, Travel & Tourism, tagged children, Children's Day, costumes, Day of the Child, Día del Nino, Mexico, Oaxaca, parades, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, traje on April 30, 2018| 3 Comments »
The United Nations declared November 20 as Universal Children’s Day. However, that is Día de la Revolución in Mexico, thus April 30 was designated Día del Niño — the day Mexico celebrates her children. Schools organize parties with games and treats, communities organize special activities, and parents may give their hijas and hijos gifts.
However, one of the features of life in Oaxaca that I appreciate most is the way children are welcomed and are included in all of the celebrations that I have had the privilege of attending — and that’s quite a few! Enjoy the following photos taken during the past year. (Click on an image for a full description of the event.)
Convite, July 7, 2017 – Teotitlán del Valle, Oaxaca
Guelaguetza, July 17, 2017 – Reyes Etla, Oaxaca
Comparsa, October 28, 2017 – Oaxaca de Juárez, Oaxaca
Muerteada, November 2, 2017 – San Agustín Etla, Oaxaca
Día de los Muertos, November 4, 2017 – San Antonino Castillo Velasco, Oaxaca
Día de los Muertos, November 4, 2017 – San Antonino Castillo Velasco, Oaxaca
Guadalupe celebrations, December 10, 2017 – Teotitlán del Valle, Oaxaca
Posada, December 22, 2017 – Teotitlán del Valle, Oaxaca
Carnaval, February 13, 2018, San Martín Tilcajete, Oaxaca
Carnaval, February 13, 2018, San Martín Tilcajete, Oaxaca
Palm Sunday, March 25, 2018 – San Antonino Castillo Velasco, Oaxaca
Festival de la Nieve y el Mezcal, March 27, 2018 – Tlacolula de Matamoros, Oaxaca
Convite celebrating Oaxaca’s 486th birthday & Cocineras Tradicionales, April 24, 2018, Oaxaca de Juárez, Oaxaca
Convite celebrating Oaxaca’s 486th birthday & Cocineras Tradicionales, April 24, 2018, Oaxaca de Juárez, Oaxaca
Mercado Sanchez Pascuas, Día del Niño festivities, April 29, 2018, Oaxaca de Juárez, Oaxaca
¡Feliz Día del Niño! And parents everywhere, please remember to “teach your children well.”
Little piggies went to Oaxaca
Posted in Creativity, Culture, Food, Travel & Tourism, tagged cochinita, cochino a la cubana, Cocineras Tradicionales de Oaxaca, cooking, food festival, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, rotisserie pork, spit-roasted pig, women cooks on April 28, 2018| Leave a Comment »
Though today is the fourth and final day of this year’s Encuentro de Cocineras Tradicionales de Oaxaca 2018, diners continue to line up around the stall of Rosario Cruz Cobos for her Cochino a la Cubana — piggies roasted over a wood fire — fiesta food from San José Chiltepec in the Papaloapan region of Oaxaca.
Mouth-watering and succulent, it is well worth the wait!
Food and fun
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Food, Travel & Tourism, tagged calenda, Cocineras Tradicionales de Oaxaca, convite, cooking, costumes, dancing, food festival, Mexico, Oaxaca, parade, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, women, women cooks on April 27, 2018| 6 Comments »
What can I say? Lately, I have been having way too much fun to blog. A Gran Convite on Tuesday evening kicked off the festivities celebrating Oaxaca’s 486 birthday and inviting one and all to the previously mentioned, 2nd Encuentro de Cocineras Tradicionales de Oaxaca opening the following day. Beginning at the Cruz de la Piedra, the parade came to a sparkling climax in front of the Cathedral.
Wednesday began with an early morning ringing of the Cathedral’s bells (and several other churches, I’m pretty sure) and the booms and bangs of cohetes announcing Oaxaca’s official birthday. Then the event that I had been hungrily awaiting — the opening of the four-day gathering of Oaxaca’s traditional cooks at the Plaza de la Danza. It was worth the wait!
Mixtec ritual of Aromas y Sabores del Alma using basil and rosemary to open Encuentro de Cocineras Tradicionales de Oaxaca.
Machacado mixe, Caldo mixe from Santa María Tlahuitoltepec in the Sierra Norte.
Chileajo amarillo from Huayuapan de León in the Mixteca.
Ingredients on display by Carina Santiago of Tierra Antigua restaurant in Teotitlán del Valle, in Oaxaca’s Valles Centrales.
Cochino a la cubana from the Papaloapan region of Oaxaca being served by cocinera Rosario Cruz Cobos.
There is also an expo-venta of Oaxacan artesanía at the Palacio Municipal adjacent to the Plaza de la Danza.
Some of the best red clay pottery from San Marcos Tlapazola for sale.
I took yesterday off to do my volunteer gig at the Oaxaca Lending Library, but I’m returning to the Encuentro today, right after I post this. My stomach is already rumbling!
Cocinera power
Posted in Culture, Food, food festival, Travel & Tourism, tagged Cocineras Tradicionales de Oaxaca, comal, cooking, Encuentro de Cocineras Tradicionales de Oaxaca 2018, food festival, metate, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, Teotitlán del Valle, women, women cooks on April 22, 2018| 12 Comments »
Beginning Wednesday, April 25, there will be a four-day gathering of cooks in the Plaza de la Danza — and not just any cooks! The second Encuentro de Cocineras Tradicionales de Oaxaca will be hosting 85 traditional female cooks from Oaxaca’s 8 regions, representing 10 ethnic groups and 58 communities. They will be offering more than 300 dishes, 30 desserts, 20 traditional beverages, and 70 varieties of tamales for sale from 1:00 PM – 9:00 PM each day in the Plaza de la Danza of Oaxaca. In addition, there will be cooking demonstrations, lectures, and regional music and folkloric dancing to entertain diners.
The Cocineras Tradicionales de Oaxaca Facebook page explains that they are an organization that promotes the ancestral tradition of Oaxacan cuisine carried out by its women — an inheritance transmitted from grandmother to mother and from mother to daughter.
As you can see from these photos I’ve taken during the past year in Teotitlán del Valle…
Recipes and techniques…
And love and reverence for the knowledge and experience continues to be passed down through the generations.
Last year’s encuentro was fabulously delicious! If you are in Oaxaca or can find a way to schedule a last-minute trip here, I highly recommend attending this year’s Encuentro de Cocineras Tradicionales de Oaxaca. I’ll be there everyday and hope to see you.
Dressing children with love
Posted in Children, Creativity, Culture, Exhibitions, Museums, Textiles, Travel & Tourism, tagged children's clothing, clothing, costumes, exhibits, Mexico, Museo Textil de Oaxaca, Oaxaca, Oaxaca Textile Museum, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, Textile Museum of Oaxaca, traje on April 18, 2018| 7 Comments »
It’s been all about boys in my family — two sons, a stepson, and a grandson. That is, until eleven months ago when finally a girl — my granddaughter — made her much welcomed entrance into the world. Of course she is adorable, but so were her brother, dad, and uncles. However, I must admit that clothes shopping for a little girl is so much more fun, especially here in Oaxaca.
Naturally, I had to go to the current Museo Textil de Oaxaca exhibition, Vestir hijos con amor (Dressing children with love) — very timely for the upcoming Día del Niño on April 30
Cotton baby hat – probably Santiago Mexquititlán, Querétaro, Mexico (c. 1960) Otomí village.
Woven baby hat – San Lucas Tolimán, Guatemala (c. 1990s) Tz’utuoil community.
The curator’s note explains that the textiles shown “are not the sumptuous accoutrements of an ancient aristocracy, but children’s clothing of the poorest people in Mexico and Guatemala… made of cotton and wool.”
Girl’s huipil from Palín, Guatemala (c. 1980s). Community speaks Pokomam, a Mayan language.
Girl’s huipil from San Bartolomé Ayautla, Oaxaca, Mexico. (c. 1950s) Mazateco community.
“In setting up this exhibit, we have tried to show how textiles intended for children make visible the love felt for them by the first nations of this land.”
Girl’s clothing from Pátzcuaro, Michoacán, Mexico. (c. 1940s) Purépecha village.
Costume of baptism – Chachahuantla, Puebla, Mexico (1999-2017) Community speaks Náhuatl.
Venustiano Carranza, Chiapas, Mexico (c. 1950s). Tsotsil village.
Huipil of black velvet with cotton embroidery from districts of Juchitán and Tehuantepec, Oaxaca, Mexico. (c. 1950-1960) Zapotec communities.
Villa Hidalgo Yalálag, Oaxaca, Mexico (c. 1990). Zapotec village.
Villa Hidalgo Yalálag, Oaxaca, Mexico (c. 1990). Zapotec village. Embroidery detail using rayon threads.
It isn’t just the girls who are dressed with love in these indigenous communities. The clothing of the boys is also just as lovingly detailed and decorated.
Boy’s clothing from San Andrés Tzicuilan, Puebla, Mexico. (c. 1988-1993) Community speaks Náhuatl.
Boy’s clothing from Santiago Ixtayutla, Oaxaca, Mexico. (c. 1990s) Mixtec village.
(R) Boy’s clothing from Venustiano Carranza, Chiapas, Mexico. (c. 1950s). Tsotsil village. (L) Teen boy’s clothing from Sierra Madre Occidental to the north of Jalisco and east of Nayarit. (c. 1930s) Wixárika (Huichol) community.
Detail from teen boy’s clothing from Sierra Madre Occidental to the north of Jalisco and east of Nayarit. (c. 1930s) Wixárika (Huichol) community.
There are so many more pieces to see and there is even an interactive component for children — a play area where they can assemble and decorate textile pieces. The Museo Textil de Oaxaca is located at Hidalgo 917, at the corner of Fiallo and the exhibition, in the Caracol room, runs until July 1, 2018.
More faces…
Posted in Creativity, Culture, Travel & Tourism, tagged graphic arts, La Unión Revolucionaria de Trabajadores del Arte, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, stencil art, street art, URTARTE, wall art on April 14, 2018| 2 Comments »
From boys to men, there are fierce faces watching from the walls in my neighborhood.
Color from La Unión Revolucionaria de Trabajadores del Arte (URTARTE).
Faces on the corner
Posted in Creativity, Culture, Travel & Tourism, tagged graffiti, graphic arts, La Unión Revolucionaria de Trabajadores del Arte, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, stencil art, street art, URTARTE, wall art on April 12, 2018| 4 Comments »
Faces at Manuel Sabino Crespo and Mariano Matamoros…
Man in a green hat – Crespo at Matamoros
Man in a red hat – Matamoros at Crespo
The art of standing on the corner in Oaxaca.
A procession proceeds
Posted in Celebrations, Culture, Holidays, Religion, Travel & Tourism, tagged Easter, Good Friday, Holy Week, Mexico, Oaxaca, Pascuas, photographs, photos, Procesión del Silencio, Procession of Silence, San Pedro, Señor de La Columna, Viernes Santo, Virgen de La Soledad, Virgen de los Dolores, Virgin Mary on April 4, 2018| 4 Comments »
As darkness fell and a hush stilled the spectators, the Procession of Silence proceeded along the prescribed route.
Good Friday in Oaxaca.
A procession prepares
Posted in Churches, Culture, Holidays, Religion, Travel & Tourism, tagged Easter, Good Friday, Holy Week, Mexico, Oaxaca, Pascuas, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, Procesión del Silencio, Procession of Silence, religious banners, religious images, Semana Santa, Viernes Santo on April 1, 2018| 2 Comments »
Though it threatened to rain on the parade, hours before the Procession of Silence was scheduled to start, crowds began lining the Macedonio Alcalá to watch as procession participants prepared for the sixteen block silent journey through some of Oaxaca’s main streets.
As Chris mentioned, in his blog post, there seemed to be many more women taking part.
Please keep silent, the procession is about to begin…
7 Churches on Jueves Santo
Posted in Churches, Culture, Holidays, Religion, Travel & Tourism, tagged Basílica de Nuestra Señora de la Soledad, blessed bread, Catedral Metropolitana de Nuestra Señora de la Asunción, Cathedral of Oaxaca, Holy Thursday, Holy Week, Jueves Santo, Maundy Thursday, Mexico, Oaxaca, pan bendito, photographs, photos, Semana Santa, Templo de la Compañía de Jesus, Templo de San Felipe Neri, Templo de San José, Templo del Carmen Alto, Templo del Carmen Bajo on March 30, 2018| 8 Comments »
Last night I joined in the Oaxaca tradition of visiting seven churches (la visita de las siete casas) on Jueves Santo (Holy Thursday, Maundy Thursday). According to Wikipedia, “The tradition of visiting seven churches on Holy Thursday probably originated in Rome, as early pilgrims visited the seven basilicas as penance.” Last year I missed it, albeit for an excellent reason, as I spent much of Semana Santa (Holy Week) in Teotitlán del Valle with the family of Porfirio Gutierrez.
This year, my first stop was just around the corner at Templo de San José, where I bought my pan bendito from a couple of women selling small bags of the traditional blessed bread from a little table just inside the front door. The entrance to this church is small and it was crowded with parishioners trying to get to the mass that was in progress, so I opted not to stop to take photos. As I exited and made my way across Jardín Socrates (packed with people enjoying nieves), enroute to Basilica de Nuestra Señora de la Soledad, there were more blessed bread vendors set up in Soledad’s atrium.
The doors to the Basilica were closed and the “traveling” Soledad was standing under a giant tent in the atrium. However, I followed the faithful to a tiny side chapel where a miniature image of Soledad appeared, behind iron bars and glass, like an apparition.
My next stop was along Calle Independencia — at Templo de San Felipe Neri, where I was met with gridlock. I joined the crowd in practicing patience and persistence as I navigated my way to the entrance, which was also serving as the exit — for some unknown reason the side door was closed.
Less than a block away, my next destination was the Catedral de Nuestra Señora de la Asunción. It took almost ten minutes to wind my way through the masses of people (tourists, vendors, performers, and other Jueves Santo pilgrims) crowding the street and the Alameda. A mass was in progress and the pews were packed — even in the side chapels, it was standing room only. However, it was here, amidst thousands, I had the good fortune of running into a dear Oaxaca friend I hadn’t seen for many months.
Leaving the Cathedral, I met the same foot traffic jam when crossing the zócalo to Templo de la Compañía de Jesús. However, once there, leave it to the Jesuits to have the entrada y salida (entrance and exit) logistics worked out!
Exiting the “salida” door, I took a side street to avoid the zócalo and Alameda. By this time darkness had fallen, the uneven and potholed sidewalks had become even more treacherous, and so taking care not to also fall, I headed to Templo del Carmen de Abajo. Though not crowded, it too had separate doors marked for entering and exiting. And here, too, I ran into someone I knew — this time a new acquaintance from Palm Sunday in San Antonino Castillo Velasco.
I couldn’t even get near the doorway of Santo Domingo de Guzmán, so I gave up on that visit and turned towards Templo del Carmen Alto and, on my way there, ran into one of my neighbors! Even when it’s filled with tens of thousands of tourists, it’s a small world in Oaxaca. Once at Carmen Alto, I joined a throng of people walking down the main aisle, when a procession, led by an incense swinging altar boy, came up behind us asking for permission to pass — the gal behind me had a very close call with the incense burner.
I had visited seven churches in seventy minutes and, by the time I left Carmen Alto, my feet were sore and hunger and home beckoned. However, I was left with warm feelings of having greeted friends and been out and about with the people of my adopted city.
Banner procession
Posted in Celebrations, Churches, Culture, Holidays, Religion, Travel & Tourism, tagged Brotherhood of the Most Holy Rosary, Catedral Metropolitana de Nuestra Señora de la Asunción, Cathedral of Oaxaca, estandartes, hermandad del Santísimo Rosario, Holy Week, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, Procesión de Estandartes, Procession of Banners, religious banners, Semana Santa, video on March 29, 2018| 4 Comments »
Semana Santa (Holy Week) is in full flower in Oaxaca, the streets are filled with tourists, both domestic and international, and the city is very helpfully distributing a schedule of the most important activities for this Easter season. Thus, on Tuesday evening I walked down to Independencia, which had been blocked to traffic, for the Procesión de Estandartes (Procession of Banners) — leaving from the Basílica de La Soledad and arriving at the Cathedral, a few blocks away.
The banners were carried by the members of the hermandad del Santísimo Rosario (Brotherhood of the Most Holy Rosary) and numbered well over 100.
In addition, the Chinas Oaxaqueñas de Casilda carried an image of Nuestra Señora del Rosario (Our Lady of the Rosary), the patron saint of the brotherhood.
Once all the banners had reached the plaza in front of the Cathedral, the way parted for Our Lady of the Rosary to enter the Cathedral.
The banners followed and were carefully positioned next to special lighting along the aisle walls on either side of the Cathedral. It was quite stunning!
An hour-long choral concert followed — nothing like listening to sacred music under the soaring ceiling of Catedral Metropolitana de Nuestra Señora de la Asunción. They had even installed video monitors, so all could see the orchestra and singers.
I returned to the Cathedral the next day to view the banners “up close and personal” and discovered informational labels had been placed in front of each estandarte — listing the date made, affiliated church, church festival, and the sponsor of the banner.
They will once again hit the road late tomorrow afternoon to join Good Friday’s, Procesión del Silencio (Procession of Silence).
Priest, palms, produce, and procession
Posted in Celebrations, Churches, Culture, Food, Holidays, Travel & Tourism, tagged Domingo de Palmas, Domingo de Ramos, Holy Week, Mexico, Oaxaca, offerings, Palm Sunday, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, priests, religion, San Antonino Castillo Velasco, San Salvador image, Semana Santa on March 26, 2018| 23 Comments »
If it’s Domingo de Ramos (Palm Sunday), I must be in San Antonino Castillo Velasco. I know there must be other villages that have colorful and moving celebrations, but the magic of San Antonino compels me to return year after year. Who can resist the spectacle outside the village panteón of watching el Señor del Burro be piled high with a cornucopia of fruits and vegetables and festooned with garlands of peppers and pan (bread)?
And, besides, each year there is always something a little new and different. To wit, in previous years parishioners presented their offerings with great pride to a committee of three or four women who formally received the donations, thanked the benefactors, and priced the items (for sale later in the day to benefit the work of the church). However, this year, in addition to offering blessings, it was the priest who interceded between the donors and the pricing committee to receive and express gratitude to each person for their contribution — be they grand or humble.
Once the young priest finished receiving the goods, he donned his ceremonial robes, offered prayers, and blessed everything (including my camera!) and everyone with holy water. This was the cue for palm fronds to be distributed to all and the altar boys and girls and disciples to assemble.
With the burro fully loaded, a team of 20+ extremely strong men hoisted the litter carrying the image of San Salvador atop the burro and, followed by villagers and visitors carrying the remainder of the goods collected, the journey to the church set off — a ritual reenactment of the Biblical story of Jesus entering Jerusalem to celebrate the Passover. As the procession made its way to the church, the rhythmic sounds of the drum and horn leading the way were occasionally overpowered by shouts warning the men of topes (speed bumps) and low hanging telephone wires that must be navigated.
The route is at least a kilometer from the panteón to San Antonino Obispo church and yesterday the sun was blazing, with not a cloud in the sky. It is a grueling act of faith for the men who bear this massive burden. The final hurtle was making their way up the steps and under the arch leading to the church atrium, where a platform to place el Señor del Burro awaited.
By 1:00 PM, the bounty to be sold had been hand (head) carried or trucked to the display area set up on the opposite side of the church atrium and it was time for the outdoor mass to commence. Thus, it was also time for us to duck out to browse the accompanying expo-venta of fabulous San Antonino embroidered blouses and dresses, flor inmortal artisan creations, the amazing and ongoing work of José García Antonio, the blind potter, and lastly find our favorite empanada vendor in the maze of food and artisan stalls set up outside the atrium walls. Yummm…
You should also check out the Oaxaca-The Year After blog– rumor has it that Chris will be posting a video of the procession in the next day or two (or three).
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