Posted in Creativity, Culture, Markets, Signs, Travel & Tourism, tagged coronavirus fallout, COVID-19 fallout, Mercado IV Centenario, mercados, Mexico, Oaxaca, photos on May 8, 2020| 8 Comments »
Informational: Symptoms and methods of prevention.
Advertising: Stay at home, Café Lavoe offers you home delivery.
Service: A hand washing station at the Av. de la Independencia entrance to Mercado IV Centenario.
It’s my favorite — a quintessential example of the Oaxacan ingenuity and creativity!
Posted in Buildings, Creativity, Culture, Neighborhoods, Travel & Tourism, tagged graffiti, Mexico, murals, Oaxaca, photos, playgrounds, shadows, shrines, street art, views, vistas, wall art on May 5, 2020| 2 Comments »
More from Sunday’s stroll along Panorámica del Fortín…
Oaxaca, even in these days of Covid-19, is always alive.
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Holidays, Religion, Travel & Tourism, tagged carrizo cross, cohetes, Day of the Holy Cross, Día de la Santa Cruz, Día del Albañil, Mexico, Oaxaca, photos, popular travel destinations, rockets on May 3, 2020| 2 Comments »
Since early this morning, rocket explosions, up close and in the distance, have been breaking the Sunday silence. That’s odd, I thought. While in normal times, the jarring sound of cohetes is a frequent player in the soundtrack of life in Oaxaca, these days, like clanging church bells, their booms and bangs have been absent from the orchestra. So, why today? I wondered. It wasn’t until I downloaded this photo from this morning’s walk, that it dawned on me.
Looking south from Panorámica del Fortín, Oaxaca de Juárez
May 3rd in Mexico is Día de la Santa Cruz (Day of the Holy Cross) and Día del Abañil (Day of the mason/stonemason/bricklayer). Tradition calls for construction workers to erect crosses festooned with flowers at the highest point on building sites — but construction in Oaxaca, in this time of Covid-19, has been at a standstill for several weeks. I guess the building trades’ workers aren’t going to let a lethal virus interfere with their “macho rivalry” tradition. From an article in Mexconnect:
The first dramatic volley of thousands of joyful cohetes (sky rockets) begins at midnight as each crew attempts to be the first to announce the celebration of the Day of the Holy Cross. This macho rivalry between workers continues sporadically all night and for the entire 24 hours of May 3 with each crew hoping to set off more sky rockets than their competitors to remind one and all that this is a special day.
Posted in Creativity, Culture, Health, People, Travel & Tourism, tagged Batman, Benito Juárez, coronavirus fallout, COVID-19 fallout, cubrebocas, Elise Rubin, face masks, masks, Mexico, Oaxaca, photos, press conferences, stencils, street art, tapabocas, urban art, wall art, Yescka on April 23, 2020| 6 Comments »
It’s official, face masks (cubrebocas/tapabocas) are mandatory. At today’s press conference, the governor of Oaxaca announced the steps the state government is taking now that Mexico has entered Phase 3 of its Covid-19 emergency plan. I must say that I was impressed by the visuals as I watched — reporters, the governor’s team of experts, and even the governor at one point were modeling good mask behavior.
And, street artists have been plastering the walls of the city with mask-wearing messages.
A medical masked Batman says, “stay in the house” — by the artist, Yescka.
Former Governor of Oaxaca and beloved former President of Mexico, Benito Juárez rocking a mask.
Not sure this couple is practicing proper mask protocol, not to mention, sana distancia (physical distancing) — by artist Elise Rubin.
Unfortunately, this last image represents what I have observed in my wanderings through the empty streets of the city. On today’s outing to my neighborhood produce truck and then to various tiendas (corner stores) in search of mineral water, eggs, and butter, at least 30% of the people I encountered were not wearing masks. For the most part, it’s not because they are not available. They are selling for ten pesos each (40¢ US) and there are numerous projects making and distributing free cloth masks, including those spearheaded by my amiga Norma Schafer over at Oaxaca Cultural Navigator. I brought a couple of extra masks with me and offered one to the gal at the produce truck, but she declined, saying she already had one. I responded that it was really important that she wear it, but she just shrugged. It’s frustrating!
Posted in Buildings, Creativity, Culture, Travel & Tourism, tagged building colors, Mexico, Oaxaca, paint colors, photos, wall colors on April 19, 2020| 10 Comments »
Posted in Creativity, Culture, Travel & Tourism, tagged Callejón Hidalgo, Mexico, murals, Oaxaca, photos, street art, urban art, wall art on April 16, 2020| 6 Comments »
I think I’m not alone…
Callejón Hidalgo, Oaxaca de Juárez – (Signed by, “Prost”)
If you need a haircut, raise your hand.
Posted in Celebrations, Churches, Creativity, Culture, Religion, Travel & Tourism, tagged churches, Domingo de Ramos, La catedral de Nuestra Señora de la Asunción, Mexico, Oaxaca, palm fronds, Palm Sunday, papel picado, photos, popular travel destinations, San Antonino Castillo Velasco, San Salvador image, Templo de San Matías Jalatlaco, Templo de Santo Domingo de Guzmán on April 5, 2020| 2 Comments »
It’s Domingo de Ramos and in pre-COVID-19 times, from my terrace I would hear an outdoor morning mass being said in the atrium of the Basilica de Nuestra Señora de la Soledad. And then, for the past eight years, blogger buddy Chris and I would drive to San Antonino Castillo Velasco for one of the most magical days of the year. However, all was silent this Palm Sunday. So, donning my mask, I went for early Sunday morning walk with my neighbor K. Lonely and poignant scenes met us everywhere our wanderings took us.
Lonely palm fronds in window of Hospital Ángel Vasconcelos on Av. José María Morelos
Doors of Catedral de Nuestra Señora de la Asunción were shuttered.
The doors of Templo de Santo Domingo de Guzmán were open, but nary a soul was in sight.
A mass was being said at Templo de San Matías Jalatlaco, but the doors were shut tight.
However, no sight we saw this morning was as moving as this one posted to the San Antonino Castillo Velasco Facebook page.
San Salvador bereft of his usual bounty stands alone in the atrium of the church in San Antonino Castillo Velasco.
To see San Salvador in his usual Domingo de Ramos splendor and the village procession that takes him, laden with donated fruits, vegetables, herbs, and bread, from the panteón to the church, click HERE.
Posted in Casita Colibrí, Creativity, Culture, Gardens, Travel & Tourism, tagged coronavirus humor, COVID-19 humor, devil mask, garden decor, mascaras, masks, Mexico, Oaxaca, photos, terrace garden, wood carving on April 3, 2020| 8 Comments »
My mask is hanging by the front door, ready to be called into service when I have to run those unavoidable errands.
If nothing else, I’m hoping it will scare folks into realizing that I’m serious about physical distancing!
Posted in Buildings, Creativity, Culture, Signs, Travel & Tourism, tagged abandoned buildings, blog 10th anniversary, blogging, crumbling buildings, dilapidated buildings, DNL UNKLE, murals, Oaxaca, photos, popular travel destinations, street art, wall art on March 28, 2020| 35 Comments »
Remember the Not for sale! building at the corner of Matamoros and Crespo? It’s been one of the buildings in a “mal estado” (bad state) since long before my first visit to Oaxaca in 2007. A portion of the Crespo facing wall finally collapsed at the end of an extremely wet 2012 rainy season. And, following the September 2017 earthquakes, what remained of the wall gave way, necessitating a barricade along the sidewalk.
As last Sunday’s stroll in the time of… showed, the barricade was in the process of getting its own facelift. It’s finished and it looks terrific.
However, as the owner, with the help of the artist, continues to make clear, the answer is NO. The building is not for sale!
By the way, while trying to locate the oldest photo I have of this wall, I discovered that I had missed the tenth anniversary of View From Casita Colibrí. It was March 25, 2010, with the post, Awake at 4:30 AM, that I began this blog. Its last line reads, “Whatever the reasons… here’s hoping I become a little braver in revealing myself, don’t let my perfectionist streak get in the way of posting and I stick with it!” I’ve definitely stuck with it, have overcome my fear of the writing and photos not being perfect (though I try to maintain my librarian commitment to accuracy), and have hopefully allowed a bit of “who I am” to be expressed in these ten years of blog posts. Here’s to another ten!
Posted in Creativity, Culture, Flora, Food, Restaurants, Travel & Tourism, tagged breakfast, Dama de noche, Epiphyllum oxypetalum, flowers, Mexico, murals, Oaxaca, photos, popular travel destinations, Primavera rosa, street art, trees, wall art on March 22, 2020| 16 Comments »
Sunday mornings have always been my favorite time to wander through the neighborhoods of Oaxaca. Traffic is light, sidewalks are mostly empty, and the city seems nestled under a blanket of tranquility. Thus, in these days of an abundance of alone-at-home time, a long peaceful walk with my neighbor (maintaining sana distancia/social distancing, of course) was just what the doctor ordered.
Out the door and up the hill, we went.
“Hola, buenos días” greetings were exchanged with the few people we encountered — many walking their dogs.
Though we weren’t planning to eat, we stumbled on a lovely garden restaurant – Ancestral Cocina Tradicional — and couldn’t resist sitting down in their sun-dappled courtyard for a quesillo and huitlacoche quesadilla, washed down with a healthy jugo verde. Everything about the restaurant was done with care and attention — including being mindful of COVID-19 concerns.
Emerging from the restaurant, we continued our ramble, admiring architecture, street art, and the beauty of dry season flowers.
This Dama de Noche (Epiphyllum oxypetalum) stopped us in our tracks!
After three hours, we returned to our homes feeling refreshed, appreciative of Oaxaca’s many gifts, and feeling like we can get through this — despite the puppet masters.
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Travel & Tourism, tagged Aguilar family, Andares del Arte Popular, artisans, ceramics, coronavirus fallout, COVID-19 fallout, Day of the Artisan, Día del Artesano, Mexico, Oaxaca, photos, popular travel destinations on March 20, 2020| 6 Comments »
Yesterday (March 19), Mexico celebrated the Day of the Artisan. Well, celebrated isn’t really the right word. COVID-19 (aka, coronavirus) was the elephant in the country.
I had long-planned to attend the always well curated 3-day Día del Artesano craft sale at Andares del Arte Popular. It’s an opportunity to meet and buy directly from the craftspeople who weave the rugs, embroider the cloth, shape the clay, carve and paint the wood, and the work of other amazingly talented artisans.
However, the sale was very responsibly canceled. Tourists and winter visitors are scrambling to return home as soon as possible, restaurants are either closing or offering only take-out service, and as I write, the city has begun instituting measures to restrict people from gathering in public spaces and calling on public transit to limit or suspend service, among other actions.
Oaxaca’s tourist-driven economy is going to take a tremendous hit. Right now, the best way to honor the artisans is to treasure the beauty they have brought to our lives. And, when the day eventually comes that we can again move about freely, we should seek them out, thank them for joy their talent brings us, and (hopefully) empty our pocketbooks a little more than usual.
Almost life-size ceramic sculptures are by the Aguilar family in Ocotlán de Morelos and were on display at Andares this month.
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, People, Religion, Travel & Tourism, tagged bodypaint, Carnaval, Carnival, Fat Tuesday, Mardi Gras, mascaras, masks, Mexico, Oaxaca, photos, San Martín Tilcajete, Shrove Tuesday, Victor Fabián Ortega on February 26, 2020| Leave a Comment »
Día de Carnaval (aka, Shrove Tuesday, Fat Tuesday, Mardi Gras, Carnival) in Oaxaca is muy especial — especially in the village of San Martín Tilcajete. The Spanish brought the tradition to Mexico and, like may other seasonal celebrations, it conveniently coincided with indigenous festivals celebrating the “lost days” of the Mesoamerican calendar, “when faces were covered to repel or confuse evil.” Apparently, it caught on “because it was one time when normal rules could be broken especially with the use of masks to hide identities from the authorities.”
Masks waiting to be worn at the workshop of Victor Fabián Ortega (click on image to enlarge)…
Not only were there masks at the workshop, there were bodies to be painted and it was a family affair — brothers, sisters, cousins, children, wives, and Victor himself who painted, was painted, and donned a mask.
Other family members (including women, new in the past couple of years) came painted and masked to gather to begin roaming through the village with other families, inviting one and all to the festivities!
And, it’s not just the adults. As with all celebrations and rituals in Oaxaca, children are encouraged to appreciate and participate — hopefully, ensuring these traditions continue.
The devils of San Martín Tilcajete laughed at everything: baptisms, weddings, solemn acts. Surrounded by devils with masks, old shoes, clothing of sacks, paintings that come from the earth and ancestral plants, they roam the streets chattering and everywhere they walk the streets laughing and appear either as devils or animal spirits.
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Holidays, Travel & Tourism, tagged Ánimas Trujano, Carnaval, Carnival, Cuilapam de Guerrero, Fat Tuesday, Macuilxóchitl de Artigas Carranza, Mardi Gras, mascaras, masks, Mexico, Muestra de Carnavales de los Valles Centrales, Oaxaca, parade, photos, Putla Villa de Guerrero, San Juan Bautista La Raya, San Martín Tilcajete, Santa Catarina Minas, Santa María Coyotepec, Shrove Tuesday, Villa de Zaachila on February 24, 2020| 6 Comments »
If you live in Oaxaca, the characters of Carnaval are coming to a village near you. And to get you in the mood and entice you to one of the wild and whacky celebrations, the citizens of the city were treated to a parade sampling the various traditions — no two villages are the same.
Villa de Zaachila, “Grupo Natividad”
Putla Villa de Guerrero
Ánimas Trujano
Macuilxóchitl de Artigas Carranza
Santa Catarina Minas
Santa María Coyotepec
San Juan Bautista La Raya
Cuilápam de Guerrero
And, last but not least, San Martín Tilcajete…
That’s where I will be tomorrow!
Posted in Creativity, Culture, Travel & Tourism, tagged goat image, Mexico, murals, Oaxaca, photos, popular travel destinations, sheep image, street art, urban art, wall art on February 19, 2020| 4 Comments »
There is a new mural in town. After five years, The gods are watching mural (my name for it) has been replaced by the watchful eyes of a goat and a sheep. 
Together they stand outside La Madriguera taller on Tinoco y Palacios (between Morelos and Matamoros).
Mexican Peso Converter
View From Casita Colibrí 
A day without women
Posted in Creativity, Culture, Politics, Protests, Travel & Tourism, tagged #ParoNacionaldeMujeres, #UnDíaSinMujeres, #UnDíaSinNosotras, A Day Without Us, A Day Without Women, art, Día Internacional de la Mujer, International Women's Day, Mexico, National Women's Strike, Oaxaca, photos, political art, political commentary, protest, stencil art, street art, urban art, wall art, women's rights on March 8, 2020| 4 Comments »
Today, March 8, women around the world are celebrating International Women’s Day with marches, forums, exhibitions, and more. The mass media is filled with stories about extraordinary women and companies catering to women are using references to International Women’s Day in their advertising, though, I might add, very few mention its revolutionary past.
However, it isn’t today’s demonstrations, expositions, and other special events that has women in Mexico talking. It is the call for women to disappear for a day to protest the staggering amount of violence perpetrated against them. Government statistics report that 3,825 women met violent deaths last year, 7% more than in 2018. That works out to about 10 women slain each day in Mexico, making it one of the most dangerous countries in the world for females. Thousands more have gone missing without a trace in recent years.
Using the hashtags #ParoNacionaldeMujeres (National Women’s Strike), #UnDíaSinNosotras (A Day Without Us), and #UnDíaSinMujeres (A Day Without Women), organizers have reached out to the women of Mexico that on Monday, March 9, nothing moves: Don’t go out, don’t shop, don’t go to school, and don’t consume — become invisible, simulating the thousands of women who have been murdered or disappeared.
As three female legislators wrote in an article expressing their support for the strike, Women are responsible for about half of the compensated economic activity in the country, and relied upon disproportionately for unpaid work in the home, which is roughly equivalent to 15% of Mexico’s GDP. In exchange, our rights are impaired or ignored. Women have become the protagonists of thousands upon thousands of stories of violence and impunity at the hands of men who, in public and in private, feel they have a right to decide over our lives and our bodies…. That and many, many reasons more are why Mexico’s women will march in protest on March 8, and stop everything – stop working, stop asking, stop accepting – on March 9.
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