Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Holidays, Travel & Tourism, tagged Día del Amor y la Amistad, graffiti, hearts, indigenous languages, International Mother Language Day, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, street art, urban art, Valentine's Day, wall art on February 14, 2016| 2 Comments »
Because today is Valentine’s Day and International Mother Language Day is coming up on February 21, learn to say “I love you” in 7 of the 69 indigenous languages spoken in Mexico — including Zapoteco, Mixteco, and a couple of other languages of Oaxaca.
¡Feliz Día del Amor y Amistad! Happy Day of Love and Friendship!
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Holidays, Religion, Travel & Tourism, tagged bufón, Carnaval, Carnival, Fat Tuesday, jester, Mardi Gras, mascaras, masks, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, San Martín Tilcajete, Shrove Tuesday on February 12, 2016| 6 Comments »
A jester comes to San Martín Tilcajete…
Your majesty, I have a confession
My secret I must now betray
I was not a born fool
It took work to get this way
When I was a lad I was gloomy and sad
And I was from the day I was born
When other lads giggled and gurgled and wiggled
I proudly was loudly forlorn
My friends and my family looked at me clammily
Thought there was something amiss
When others found various antics hilarious
All I could manage was this? ho ho
Or this? ho waahhh
My father he shouted he needs to be clouted
His teeth on a wreath I’ll hand him
My mother she cried as she rushed to my side
You’re a brute and you don’t understand him
So they send for a witch with a terrible twitch
To ask how my future impressed her
She took one look at me and cried hehehehehe, he?
What else could he be but a jester?
A jester a jester, a funny idea a jester
No butcher no baker no candlestick maker
And me with the look of a fine undertaker
Impressed her as a jester?
Now where could I learn any comical turn
That was not in a book on the shelf
No teacher to take me and mold me and make me
A merryman fool or an elf
But I’m proud to recall that in no time at all
With no other recourses but my own resources
With firm application and determination
I made a fool of myself!
I bought a little gun and I learned to shoot
I bought a little a horn and I learned to toot
Now I can shoot and toot ain’t that cute? Plbbt!
I started to travel to try to unravel
My mind and to find a new chance
When I got to Spain it was suddenly plain
That the field that appealed was the dance
The Spanish were clannish but I wouldn’t vanish
I learned every step they had planned
The first step of all isn’t hard to recall
Cause the first step of all is to stand
And stand
And stand, and stand, and stand, and stand, and
They sometimes stand this way for days
Then they get very mad at the floor and start to stomp on it
[Smash! Ow!]
After all of my practice the terrible fact is
I made a fool of myself
I sadly decided that dancing as I did
To sing was a thing that was sure
I found me a teacher a crotchety creature
Who used to sing coloratura
She twisted my chin pushed my diaphragm in
With a poker she vocalized me
When she said it was best that I threw out my chest
You may gather that rather surprised me
I was on solid ground till I suddenly found
That in Venice I was to appear
The gala locale was a choppy canal
And me, a high sea gondolier
I nervously perched as the gondola lurched
Before the King’s palazzo
As I started my song my voice it was strong
But my stomach I fear was not so
Oh solo mio, oh
Oh solo ooh Help!
When I fell overboard how his majesty roared
And before a siesta he made me his jester
And I found out soon that to be a buffoon
Was a serious thing as a rule
For a jester’s chief employment
Is to kill himself for your enjoyment
And a jester unemployed is nobody’s fool
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Holidays, Religion, Travel & Tourism, tagged Carnaval, Carnival, Fat Tuesday, Mardi Gras, mascaras, masks, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, San Martín Tilcajete, Shrove Tuesday on February 10, 2016| 4 Comments »
Fat Tuesday (aka, Shrove Tuesday and Mardi Gras), the day before the 6+ weeks of Lent begins, means Carnaval in scattered parts of Mexico. I was supposed to be spending it on the Costa Chica — where Spanish Catholicism meets Mixtec meets Amuzgo meets Chatino meets Chontal meets Zapotec meets Afro-Mexicano — a region with some pretty unique ways of celebrating Carnaval. Alas, illness (not me) has postponed that trip until next year.
In the meantime, the show must go on! Thus, we returned to San Martín Tilcajete, one of the villages in the valley of Oaxaca, known for fantastical wood carving and surreal decorative painting, that result in alebrije and masks.
And, it’s the masks that take center stage during Carnaval.
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Holidays, Religion, Travel & Tourism, tagged Carnaval, Carnival, faces, Fat Tuesday, Mardi Gras, mascaras, masks, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, San Martín Tilcajete on February 9, 2016| Leave a Comment »
The day before Lent in San Martín Tilcajete, Oaxaca.
Stay tuned… More masks and mayhem to come!
Posted in Animals, Casita Colibrí, Celebrations, Culture, Exhibitions, Flora, Travel & Tourism, tagged African Tulip trees, Casa Colonial, cattle, Cochineal, flowers, globos, hot air balloons, MACO, Museo de Arte Contemporáneo de Oaxaca, Oaxaca, Police riot shields, Primavera, San Juan Guelavia, San Mateo Macuilxóchitl, water lilies on January 1, 2016| 16 Comments »
Muchisimas gracias to all my wonderful blog readers — for reading, for commenting, for sharing, for the opportunity to meet some of you, and for inspiring me to continue. A look back at Oaxaca scenes that never made it into the blog…
January – Although spring was a couple of months away, the Primavera (Tabebuia chrysotricha) was already in bloom.
February – Cattle car on the carretera outside Tlacolula de Matamoros on Sunday market day.
March – A quiet morning on Monte Albán.
April – Decorating with agave flowers on Easter Sunday in Mitla.
May – Police temporarily remove and replace Sección 22 on the zócalo.
June – Though we arrived hours early for a festival in San Juan Guelavía, the sacred and profane were already present.
July – A favorite view from my terrace, the African tulip trees in full bloom.
August – At Casa Colonial the water lilies and hyacinths were stunning.
September – Cochineal (the “perfect red” dye) exhibition at Museo de Arte Contemporaneo de Oaxaca (MACO).
October – Returning from Teotitlán de Valle one morning, a globo was landing near San Mateo Macuilxochitl.
November – On the way to Mercado Hidalgo in Colonia Reforma to buy Thanksgiving groceries, Our Lady of the Wires (?).
December – Rooftop still life in El Centro.
A long, strange, and fascinating trip it continues to be. As another song says, Próspero año y felicidad!
Posted in Celebrations, Culture, Holidays, Travel & Tourism, tagged Christmas, Christmas traditions, inflatable Santa Claus, Mexico, Navidad, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations on December 27, 2015| 1 Comment »
This is how I feel today…
Actually, I took this a few weeks ago on Matamoros (at Tinoco y Palacios) with the intention of writing a blog post lamenting Christmas traditions (Christmas trees, Santa Claus, consumerism, etc.) migrating down from el norte. But, I think I’ll just let the image speak for itself.
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Holidays, tagged 'Twas the Night Before Christmas, “Lalo” Guerrero, Christmas, Christmas decorations, Christmas Eve, Christmas ornaments, Christmas tree, Eduardo Guerrero, Ernie Villarreal, Mexico, Nacimiento de navidad, Navidad, Nochebuena, Oaxaca, Pancho Claus, poem on December 24, 2015| 6 Comments »
‘Tis Christmas Eve in Nueva York and, while we may be dreaming of a white Christmas, there is not a snowflake in sight. However, the stockings are hung by the chimney with care, a plate of Christmas cookies is awaiting a hungry Santa Claus, and tonight I will read Pancho Claus to my grandson. It will be his first time hearing Ernie Villarreal’s version of Pancho Claus by Chicano music legend, Eduardo “Lalo” Guerrero. Hopefully, he will learn a few more words in Spanish and, whether I’m visiting or not, it will become a family tradition.
Pancho Claus
‘Twas the night before Christmas and all through la casa
Not a creature was stirring, Caramba! ¿Que pasa?
Los ninos were all tucked away in their camas,
Some in vestidos and some in pajamas.
While Mama worked late in her little cocina,
El viejo was down at the corner cantina.
The stockings were hanging con mucho cuidado,
In hopes that St. Nicholas would feel obligado
To bring all the children, both buenos y malos,
A Nice batch of dulces and other regalos.
Outside in the yard, there arouse such a grito,
That I jumped to my feet, like a frightened cabrito.
I went to the window and looked out afuera,
And who in the world, do you think que era?
Saint Nick in a sleigh and a big red sombrero
Came dashing along like a crazy bombero!
And pulling his sleigh instead of venados,
Were eight little burros approaching volados.
I watched as they came, and this little hombre
Was shouting and whistling and calling by nombre.
¡Ay, Pancho! ¡Ay, Pepe! ¡Ay, Cuca! ¡Ay, Beto!
¡Ay, Chato! ¡¡Ay, Chopo! ¡Maruca and ¡Nieto!
Then standing erect with his hand on his pecho
He flew to the top of our very own techo.
With his round little belly like a bowl of jalea,
He struggled to squeeze down our old chimenea.
Then huffing and puffing, at last in our sala,
With soot smeared all over his red suit de gala.
He filled the stockings with lovely regalos,
For none of the children had been very malos.
Then chuckling aloud and seeming contento,
He turned like a flash and was gone like the viento.
And I heard him exclaim and this is VERDAD,
Merry Christmas to all, And to All ¡Feliz Navidad!
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Travel & Tourism, tagged dancers, dried corn husks, flor inmortal, Mexico, Night of the Radishes, Noche de Rabanos, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, Totomoxtle on December 21, 2015| 3 Comments »
The “only in Oaxaca” Noche de Rábanos is coming! If you are in Oaxaca, the zócalo is the place to be on December 23 to watch radishes being carved into familiar and fantastical creations. Among the former, dancers from Oaxaca’s eight regions are a favorite.
Danza de la Pluma dancer in Rábanos Tradicional category 2012
Baile del Guajolote dancer in Rábanos Libre category 2013
Despite of the name, it isn’t just about carved radishes. The artists of Oaxaca work their creative magic in several other categories, including dried flowers…
Chinas Oaxaqueñas in Flor Inmortal category 2012
… and corn husks.
Chinas Oaxaqueñas entry in Totomoxtle Natural category 2012
Jarabe Mixteco dancer in Totomoxtle Decorado category 2012
Danza de los Huenches Viejos de Yalalag in Totomoxtle Decorado category 2012
I wish I could be in two places at one time, so I could experience this year’s Night of the Radishes. If you are lucky enough to be there, enjoy and take lots of photos!
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Education, Travel & Tourism, tagged Christmas ornaments, classroom presentation, costume, dancers, Guelaguetza, Mexico map, Nacimiento de navidad, Nativity scene, Oaxaca, photos, piñata, rugs, tapetes, Teotitlán del Valle, traje on December 18, 2015| 8 Comments »
Yesterday was SO much fun!!! I’m spending Christmas with family in New York and was invited by my daughter-in-law to speak to her special education class. Wearing one of my huipiles from the Papaloapan region of Oaxaca, I filled them in on “life in Oaxaca.”
We looked at a map of Mexico and I pointed to where the state of Oaxaca is located.
We spoke a little Spanish and discovered that some familiar foods, like chocolate, gum (chicle), corn (maíz), and turkey (pavo), originated in Mexico. They learned that there are many artisan crafts made in Oaxaca and I showed them a tapete (rug) that was woven in Teotitlán del Valle.
We talked about festivals with processions, bands, marmotas, monos, and dancing. And, to illustrate the diversity of the indigenous peoples of Oaxaca, I created a short video from La Guelaguetza 2014.
We discussed the differences between Christmas traditions in Mexico and the USA — that Christmas trees aren’t as common, but most everyone sets up a nacimiento (nativity scene) in their home.
Of course, they loved the idea of breaking open a piñata filled with candy and trinkets.
I concluded with a video I’d made and previously posted of the castillo in Teotitlán del Valle during the festival honoring the Virgen del Rosario. Needless to say, they were awestruck by the fireworks. And then I gave them each a woven palm leaf piñata ornament. Alas, no candy inside!
I was very touched that my daughter-in-law returned home later in the afternoon bringing individualized thank-you notes from the students. However, I would like to give a big “muchisimas gracias” to her for inviting me and to her students for being such an attentive, engaged, and delightful audience!
Posted in Celebrations, Culture, Holidays, Travel & Tourism, tagged Danza de la Pluma, danzantes, Día de la Virgen de Guadalupe, decorative gourds, Mexico, Oaxaca, offerings, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, Teotitlán del Valle, Virgen de Guadalupe, Virgin of Guadalupe on December 14, 2015| 8 Comments »
Saturday, like all Mexico, Teotitlán del Valle honored the Virgen de Guadalupe. As they do every December 12, the Danzantes de Promesa danced the Danza de la Pluma. However, this was the last performance by this group; their three-year commitment to their god, church, and community was at an end. And, as is their tradition, the dancers and their families offered the village food, drink, and a party to celebrate.
Dancers and their wives, parents, grandparents, godparents, sisters, brothers, and children came bearing fruits, candy, mezcal, and beer.
The children learn at an early age that it isn’t all about them — they are part of a community and have roles to play and contributions to make.
All ages and genders have a role. The men, more often than not, get the glory but look at these women! They radiate the strength and pride of 2000 years of Teotitlán del Valle, Zapotec history and culture.
As darkness fell and after dancing for several hours, 9-year olds, Juana Lizbeth Contreras (Malinche) and Ailani Ruiz Ruiz (Doña Marina) made the rounds of the thousands gathered on the church plaza to distribute their gifts to their community. It was then that emotion overwhelmed me.
A profound muchisimas gracias to the people of Teotitlán del Valle for being so welcoming over the years to a couple of gringo bloggers. Chris and I are so grateful for your generosity of spirit. Definitely, more to come…
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Holidays, Religion, Travel & Tourism, tagged Danza de la Pluma, historical photographs, Iglesia de Guadalupe, Mexico, Oaxaca, photos, popular travel destinations, Virgen de Guadalupe, Virgen de Juquila, Virgen de La Soledad, Virgin of Guadalupe, Virgin of Juquila, Virgin of Solitude on December 12, 2015| 2 Comments »
The bells, bands, and booms have been soundtrack of the city for a week — the virgins are being celebrated! First in line, on December 8, for chiming church bells, processions, and fireworks was the Virgen de Juquila and third will be Oaxaca’s patron saint, the Virgen de la Soledad on Dec. 18. However, in between the eighth and eighteenth, all of Mexico honors the Virgin of Guadalupe. Today, December 12 is her day but, like the others, the festivities began days in advance.
Scenes from last night in front of the Iglesia de Guadalupe in Oaxaca city…
Now on to Teotitlán de Valle for this afternoon’s Día de Guadalupe performance of the Danza de la Pluma. We have been told the festivities will last all night, as the community will also be saying “adios” to this group of dancers — their three-year commitment is at an end. It will be a miracle of the Virgin if we can party hardy until even midnight, but we will give it the old college try!
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Travel & Tourism, tagged cemetery, Day of the Dead, Día de los Muertos, Día de Muertos, flowers, hands, Mexico, Oaxaca, panteón, photographs, photos, San Antonino Castillo Velasco, tombs on November 5, 2015| 6 Comments »
Young and old, male and female…
it’s a family affair, labor of love…
as the tombs of San Antonino Castillo Velasco are painstakingly decorated on November 3.
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Holidays, Travel & Tourism, tagged calacas, calaveras, Day of the Dead, Día de los Muertos, Días de Muerto, decorative skulls, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, skeletons on November 1, 2015| 7 Comments »
This year, around and about Oaxaca during Día de Muertos, especially for my skeleton loving grandson. (Click on images to enlarge)
Besos y abrazos, Abue. 😉
Posted in Celebrations, Culture, Flora, Holidays, Travel & Tourism, tagged cempasuchitl, Day of the Dead, Día de Muerto, flor de muertos, flowers, marigolds, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, veruche on October 30, 2015| 4 Comments »
Today I ventured down to Calle de Ignacio Rayón (the block between the Benito Juárez and 20 de Noviembre mercados) to purchase flowers for my Día de Muertos ofrenda (an altar of offerings). On the list was cockscomb (cresta de gallo or borla de Santa Teresa), marigolds (cempasúchitl), and veruche (also known as flor de muertos). I wasn’t alone, the sidewalks were crowded with other shoppers in search of the same traditional flowers, fruits, nuts, copal, and other items to place on their ofrendas.
Veruche is a tiny relative of the marigold that grows wild in the valley of Oaxaca at this time of year. Yellow was the color of death in southern Mexico, long before the Spanish set foot on the continent and, along with the scent of the flowers and smoke from the candles and copal, it is thought to attract the difuntos (spirits of the dead) to bring them to the ofrendas prepared for them.
Muchisimas gracias to Shawn D. Haley for his informative presentation at the Oaxaca Lending Library on the Zapotec celebration of Día de Muertos. Needless to say, I also purchased the book he coauthored with photographer Curt Fukuda, The Day of the Dead: When Two Worlds Meet in Oaxaca.
Posted in Celebrations, Churches, Culture, Holidays, Religion, Travel & Tourism, tagged Catedral de Oaxaca, flowers, La catedral de Nuestra Señora de la Asunción, lilies, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, Señor del Rayo on October 21, 2015| 6 Comments »
I love going into Oaxaca’s cathedral at this time of year, when the fragrance of thousands of flowers, especially lilies, perfumes the air.
The Catedral de Nuestra Señora de la Asunción is being readied for October 23, the day Oaxaca celebrates Señor del Rayo.
Like Guelaguetza, Noche de Rabanós (Night of the Radishes), and Día de la Samaritana (Good Samaritan Day), this is an “only in Oaxaca” celebration.
This carving of Christ on the Cross was brought to Oaxaca during the 16th century and was placed in the temple of San Juan de Dios, a church which had adobe walls and a straw (or possibly wood) roof.
Legend has it that lightning struck the church and everything was destroyed, save for this figurine. A miracle!
The statue became known as Señor del Rayo (Lord of Lightning), was placed in his own chapel (the furthest capilla from the main entrance on the left) in the newly built cathedral, and has been much venerated ever since.
October 21, in anticipation of his special day, the cathedral is festooned with lilies and Señor del Rayo is moved out of the glass case in his chapel, to the main altar of the cathedral.
October 22 will be filled with religious and cultural events and at midnight, when the calendar day changes, the cathedral bells will peal and cohetes (rockets) will announce the arrival of Señor del Rayo’s special day.
In honor of His day, on October 23, there will more spiritual and cultural festivities, culminating in a castillo and fireworks.
As the color and scent of the lilies fade, on October 24 Señor del Rayo will be returned to his chapel.
The end of eleven days of festivities celebrating Señor del Rayo.
Mexican Peso Converter
View From Casita Colibrí 