In front of Santo Domingo de Guzman…
Enjoy the day. It’s a jungle out there!
Archive for the ‘Celebrations’ Category
Graduation Day in Oaxaca
Posted in Celebrations, Education, Travel & Tourism, tagged caps and gowns, graduation, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, students, Templo de Santo Domingo de Guzmán on May 25, 2017| Leave a Comment »
In honor of…
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Exhibitions, Travel & Tourism, tagged Carolyn Kallenborn, exhibits, International Museum Day, Irmgard Weitlaner Johnson, Mexico, Museo Textil de Oaxaca, museums, Oaxaca, Ornilla Ridone, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, Textile Museum of Oaxaca, textiles, Trine Ellitsgaard on May 17, 2017| 4 Comments »
Tomorrow, May 18, museums worldwide will be celebrating International Museum Day with special events around this year’s theme, “Museums and contested histories: Saying the unspeakable in museums.” According to the IMD website, The objective of International Museum Day is to raise awareness of the fact that, “Museums are an important means of cultural exchange, enrichment of cultures and development of mutual understanding, cooperation and peace among peoples.”
While Oaxaca has many wonderful museums, textile lover that I am, I would like to honor the day by looking back at several exhibitions I had the pleasure of viewing at the Museo Textil de Oaxaca — and a current one, too!
“Tormentos y suenos” (Storms and dreams) by Carolyn Kallenborn – August 3, 2012
Exhibitions ranged from works by individual textile artists to themed shows displaying textiles from the museum’s permanent collection and those on loan.
“Transcomunalidad. interventions and collaborations with stilt communities and craftsmen” exhibition by Laura Anderson Barbata – March 1, 2013
Item labels and detailed descriptive booklets have been extremely helpful and, in the case of collections by individual collectors, their field notes were fascinating.
“Irmgard Weitlaner Johnson: a life dedicated to textiles” – Costal (bag) was acquired by Irmgard in 1949, is said to be one of the most well preserved examples from the Valle del Mezquital, Hidalgo and, given the design, is thought to have been a wedding gift. – Nov. 21, 2014
The museum not only collects, preserves, and exhibits, it also holds workshops, lectures, expo-ventas (exposition and sales), and has provided a platform for issues of importance to textile artists, especially from the indigenous communities of the state of Oaxaca.
El Delirio del color Oaxaca en los años 1960″ – Huipil mazatecas from the Tuxtepec district – Apr. 19, 2015
Exhibition openings often have included receptions, with an occasional performance art presentation thrown in.
“Hilo Rojo 3047” an autobiographical installation by Ornilla Ridone – May 21, 2016
Museums can be a place to help shape community identity and bring different community groups together, a catalyst for regeneration through the creation of new venues and civic spaces, and a resource for developing the skills and confidence of members of those communities. — Museums Association
“Tekstil” current exhibition by textile artist Trine Ellitsgaard – Piece titled “Serpiente y abanicos” (Serpent and fans) – May 6, 2017
In observance of this year’s International Museum Day, the Museo Textil de Oaxaca invites textile artists and designers, academics, students, and the general public to participate in a conversation exploring the questions, “What is plagiarism? What is a copy? What is collaborating? Is ‘to collaborate’ synonymous with ‘to employ’? What has been the role of the copy in the development of craft goods?” May 18, 10:00 AM to 2:00 PM in the Claustro of the Centro Cultural San Pablo — next door to the Textile Museum.
Inviting the rain atop Picacho
Posted in Celebrations, Culture, Holidays, People, Religion, Travel & Tourism, tagged Cerro Picacho, Day of the Holy Cross, Día de la Santa Cruz, El Picacho, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, Procopio Contreras, Teotitlán del Valle on May 4, 2017| 9 Comments »
Yesterday, I did it again! After a year’s hiatus, on Día de la Santa Cruz I returned for the ritual pilgrimage to the top of El Picacho, the sacred mountain that watches over Teotitlán del Valle. To avoid hiking in the worst of May’s high temperatures, our ascent began at 5:30 in the morning. Yes, it was dark, with not even moonlight to guide our way. Thank goodness for the flashlight app on my smart phone. However, by 6:30 AM dawn was breaking and our artificial lights were extinguished. Our hardy band arrived at the summit about 7:30 AM to the ritual round of handshaking that accompanies greetings and farewells in the village.
The three crosses mark the summit
Pilgrims perched on the rocky outcroppings that make up the peak.
The views were spectacular no matter which way one chose to look.
An altar greeted pilgrims at the peak.
At 8:30 AM, an hour-long mass was celebrated and, perhaps a first, some of it was in Zapoteco.
As the mass began, the cicadas (cigarras or chicharras, en español) began their song — one even perched on the fabric swag festooning the crosses.
Mass over, Procopio Contreras, the young priest (first from Teotitlán) took off his vestments and posed for photos.
Mountain top delivery of tamales de mole amarillo followed the mass.
Along with a cup of agua de jamaica, we took our tamales into the shade, where bromeliads clung to tree branches.
After a lazy comida filled with conversation between new friends and with our strength renewed, we (3 Teotitecos, 1 Belgian, and me) descended the mountain.
While the day may be designated Día de la Santa Cruz and a mass said on top of Picacho, this day has pre-Hispanic roots in ceremonies related to the sowing season. In the early days of May (by our calendar), prayers and rituals were dedicated to Cosijo, the Zapotec god of lightening, thunder, and rain — later to Tláloc, the Aztec god of rain — thus fertility and water for the growing of crops. Hmmm… On May 2, lightening flashed and thunder roared, but Mother Nature only delivered a few drops in the village. However, on May 3, once the daylong festivities atop the mountain concluded, three hours of a good hard rain fell in Teotitlán del Valle. The gods must have heard the prayers.
h/t Zeferino Mendoza
Good Friday in Teotitlán
Posted in Celebrations, Churches, Culture, Holidays, Religion, Travel & Tourism, tagged Good Friday, Holy Week, Jueves Santo, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, rugs, Semana Santa, tapetes, Teotitlán del Valle on April 28, 2017| 3 Comments »
When I left off, it was early evening on Jueves Santo (Holy Thursday) in Teotitlán del Valle and the church doors were to be left open all night. Sometime after dark, the statue of Jesus was removed from the church and incarcerated behind a petate (woven palm) mat.
All during the night, the faithful waited their turn to visit the incarcerated Jesus.
On Viernes Santo (Good Friday) morning, as the last of the villagers had paid their respects, the petate mat was removed.
At the same time, in the esplanade in front of the rug market, a pulpit was constructed and decorated with tapetes — on loan from the nearby vendors.
At 10:30 AM, a procession of Mary, Mary Magdalene, and St. John left the church, enroute to the esplanade.
Then Jesus, bearing the cross, began his journey to the esplanade.
Accompanied by throngs of faithful and the Roman Centurion, he wound his way through the streets along a different route from Mary.
Jesus entered the plaza between the Municipal Building and the new Cultural Center.
While Mary entered the plaza from the opposite direction — between the museum and the rug vendor stalls.
Mary and Jesus stood facing one another. They inched closer, as the priest continued his recitation, and at a designated moment, the statues were tilted so they could touch in farewell — this was the encuentro (encounter).
Everyone joined together in a single procession back to the church.
The Centurion returned to the church, as well, and couldn’t stop smiling.
Jesus, Mary, Mary Magdalene, and St. John made their way back to the village church, Templo de la Preciosa Sangre de Cristo.
Following several hours spent under the unrelenting brilliant sun, most villagers made their way across the street to the mercado for a refreshing nieve (water or milk based ice cream). Maybe that was why the Centurion was smiling.
Townspeople returned home for a traditional meal of salted fish and white beans — sustenance for what was to come — an evening Mass of the Crucifixion, followed by a second parallel procession to the cemetery, where another encuentro took place, and culminated in another joint procession back to the church. Alas, I was exhausted, and chose bed over the evening’s events.
Return to Jueves Santo
Posted in Celebrations, Churches, Culture, Holidays, People, Religion, Travel & Tourism, tagged Antoño Lazo Hernandez, Holy Thursday, Holy Week, Jueves Santo, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, procession, Semana Santa, Teotitlán del Valle on April 26, 2017| 3 Comments »
Now that the Cocineras event is over (yes, I went back for day two), I am returning, as promised, to Semana Santa spent in Teotitlán del Valle. When I left off, I had spent Holy Thursday in the kitchen with Juana and we had just sat down to eat. However the day did not end there. Following our comida, we cleared the plates, while Antoño went out into the courtyard to vigorously scrub his feet. He soon left and Juana disappeared.
After about twenty minutes, she and her 3 1/2 year old granddaughter emerged dressed in what appeared to be their “Sunday best.” She quickly piled fruit (at least a foot high) onto a platter, covered her creation with cellophane and tied it with a bow — it was to be an offering. A flower arrangement was also picked up from a table by the door and then our little procession of three set off to navigate the steep dirt street down to the atrium of the church, where an altar and hundreds of chairs had been placed. I guess I was going to mass!
Later on in the mass, it became clear why Antoño had scrubbed his feet so diligently — the ritual of washing the Disciples’ feet. Antoño was portraying Andrés el Apóstol (those are the Apostles with the laurel wreaths, above) and the Apostle to his left washed his feet and he, in turn, washed the feet of the Apostle to his right. After the mass, a procession around the church courtyard began.
The Apostles preceded the priest, who was sheltered under a golden canopy. Yes, that’s Antoño, below.
This was the procession of the Holy Monstrance — the shiny sunburst-shaped item carried by the priest containing a consecrated Host (below).
Everyone followed at a slow solemn pace.
Once a full circumnavigation of the courtyard had been completed, the procession led into the church and up to the altar.
According to the book, Oaxaca Celebration: Family, Food, and Fiestas in Teotitlán, this is the only time the monstrance is set out and the church doors are left open at night. A vigil is kept all night by designated villagers and parishioners are encouraged to visit.
Oaxaca’s birthday bash begins
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Food, food festival, History, Holidays, Travel & Tourism, tagged 485th anniversary, calendas, Cocineras Tradicionales de Oaxaca, Encuentro Cocineras Tradicionales, food, gigantes, Happy, Happy Birthday Oaxaca, Mexico, monos, Oaxaca, parades, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations on April 24, 2017| 3 Comments »
This week the city of Oaxaca celebrates her 485 birthday. Yes, we know she is older… However, we are talking the colonial city, here. And, despite her age, this birthday girl began the festivities by inviting the best cocineras from the eight regions of the state to cook for her citizens and visitors — from 1 PM until 9 PM — under the shade of a giant tent covering the Plaza de la Danza. The Primer Encuentro de Cocineras Tradicionales de Oaxaca was not free, but quite reasonable.
The food was riquísima (beyond delicious) and, while we were there, the guys from Santiago Juxtlahuaca in the Mixtec region of Oaxaca, performed the Danza de los Rubios.
I returned home satisfied and sleepy, but the day wasn’t over. There was a calenda (parade) scheduled for 5 PM and a procession of “Gigantes” at 7 PM — route for the latter was unclear. I was hot, tired, and torn. To go, or not to go? That was the question. Thunder began rumbling and I figured my answer was to stay in for the evening. However, at 7:30 PM, when a the sounds of a procession came practically to my doorstep and not a drop of rain had fallen, I had to run out to join it.
The “Gigantes” were supposed to represent the giants of all time that Oaxaca has given to the world. Most were a mystery to me, though I think I saw Benito Juárez and maybe Porfirio Díaz (both Oaxaqueños) and I’m guessing the bunny is a nod to the alebrije wood carving and decorating tradition. In any case, it was great fun!
Just as the calenda reached the Plaza de la Danza, it began raining on this parade and everyone made a beeline for the cover of the Cocineras tent. I’m sure they will eat well! And the rain? It was probably the best birthday gift Mother Nature could bestow on Oaxaca’s parched earth and dusty sidewalks.
This was just day one of the anniversary festivities. Tomorrow (Tuesday) is Oaxaca’s actual birthday and the church bells will begin chiming at 6:45 AM. So I’d better get to bed! By the way, the Encuentro de Cocineras Tradicionales de Oaxaca opens again at 1 PM tomorrow and lasts until 8 PM or whenever the food runs out. For a complete schedule of events, click HERE.
The Viejitos are coming!
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Travel & Tourism, tagged Baile de Los Viejitos, Dance of the Old Men, mascaras, masks, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, Teotitlán del Valle on April 24, 2017| Leave a Comment »
Well, actually, they came, they saw, and they set the village straight.
Stay tuned…
Holy Thursday in the kitchen
Posted in Celebrations, Culture, Food, Holidays, People, Travel & Tourism, tagged Antoño Lazo Hernandez, chile relleno, cooking, Holy Thursday, Holy Week, Juana Gutiérrez Contreras, Jueves Santo, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, Semana Santa, Teotitlán del Valle, white beans on April 21, 2017| 14 Comments »
After spending Holy Monday in Teotitlán del Valle, I returned on Jueves Santo (Holy Thursday, Maundy Thursday) to spend the day with Juana Gutiérrez Contreras in the home she shares with her husband, Antoño Lazo Hernandez, and their family. She and her husband are members of a talented family of Zapotec weavers. I’ve previously blogged about her brother Porfirio and am helping in a small way with a big project he is working on — and that is how I found myself spending several days during Semana Santa in Teotitlán.
Juana Gutiérrez Contreras and Antoño Lazo Hernandez – July 2016
However, this day, I wasn’t there for the weaving — as wonderful as it is. As with much of life in Teoti, there are culinary customs to be followed on Holy Thursday. After insisting I sit down for desayuno (my second of the day — I’d eaten breakfast before leaving home), we set to work preparing the traditional Jueves Santo comida of white beans.
Juana separating dried white beans.
I was tasked with grinding garlic and herbs used to season the beans.
Crushing garlic and herbs using a stone pestle in a clay bowl.
Halved tomatoes (another of my jobs), whole onions and whole jalapeños were added to the beans.
Yes, this watched pot did boil — or at least, simmer!
Our attention then turned to making chiles rellenos de queso, using Oaxaca’s own chile de agua. For this, we moved to the outside kitchen set up under the shade of fruit trees.
Chiles roasting roasting directly on top of wood coal.
Juana used her fingers to turn the the chiles. However, after one attempt on my part, she pointed to the tongs. Those coals were really hot!
Modern wire whisk meets traditional clay cazuela.
While Juana whipped egg whites to a stiff peek, before adding the yolks, I peeled and slit the chiles.
Epazote leaves and chiles await the quesillo.
I was also entrusted with stuffing the chiles — first a leaf of epazote, followed by a heaping helping of shredded quesillo (Oaxaca string cheese). Then Juana commenced to frying the chiles rellenos in another cazuela — gently laying each on top of a bed of egg batter and spooning more batter on top.
Cazuela and chiles rellenos amidst the flames.
She was masterful in her ability to withstand the heat of the fire while carefully turning the chiles.
Chiles rellenos about to be transferred to a waiting platter.
In timing known only to Juana and Antoño, comida was ready just as Antoño walked in the door from attending a reenactment of La Última Cena at the church — a Last Supper that featured the flavors of Teotitlán. During this Semana Santa, he portrayed Andrés el Apóstol (Apostle Andrew). So, only a few hours after we had all last eaten, we were again sitting down at the table. Alas, the food was SO delicious and I was having so much fun, I forgot to take pictures of our bowls of delicately flavored white beans and plates of chiles rellenos. Sometimes you just have to be “in the moment.”
Holy Monday in Teotitlán del Valle
Posted in Celebrations, Culture, Holidays, Music, Travel & Tourism, tagged band, chanting, comida, food, Holy Monday, Holy Week, Lunes Santo, Mexico, music, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, rugs, Semana Santa, tapetes, Teotitlán del Valle, video on April 16, 2017| 9 Comments »
As the last couple of posts hinted, this year, instead of the city, I spent much of Semana Santa (Holy Week) in one of my favorite places — Teotitlán del Valle.
This was only the beginning. It was a colorful, moving, and delicious experience!
Coats of many colors
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Holidays, Travel & Tourism, tagged Holy Monday, Holy Week, Lunes Santo, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, rugs, Semana Santa, tapetes, Teotitlán del Valle, textile traditions on April 12, 2017| 3 Comments »
Well, actually not coats. These are the “casitas” (temporary homes) to house Jesús and María as they make their way through the streets of Teotitlán del Valle on Lunes Santo (Holy Monday).
The aforementioned streets include several blocks of Av. Juárez — the main street into town. Thus, I found myself being “let off” the Teoti bus by the panteón (cemetery), instead of the mercado.
How could I complain, when these guys (above) were so welcoming and offered this weary traveler a cup of agua de guanábana, a refreshing fresh fruit drink.
As I mentioned in Monday’s post, there are twelve casitas in all — each with “walls” of the colorful tapetes woven in this village known for the story-telling designs and striking colors of their rugs. Apparently, up until forty years ago, the casita walls were made of petates, the traditional woven palm mats that play a role from birth to death. But, times change, the tapetes are more colorful, and it’s good PR for this community of weavers.
As Jesús and María near, the ground is sprinkled with water and bougainvillea blossoms are scattered on the casita floor, copal incense is lit, and platters of food and drink await to feed the faithful and quench their thirst. More about that to come…
Jesús among the tapetes
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Holidays, Travel & Tourism, tagged Holy Monday, Holy Week, Jesus, Lunes Santo, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, rugs, Semana Santa, tapetes, Teotitlán del Valle on April 10, 2017| 7 Comments »
Today, Lunes Santo (Holy Monday), found me in Teotitlán del Valle, as Jesús and María were carried on palanquins in a slow moving procession through town, from one temporary tapete (rug) adorned casita to another. They will make twelve stops in all.
This casita was erected by the family of the Vice President of the village Church Committee, Amado Gutiérrez, father of Porfirio Gutiérrez, of whom I have previously written.
There was food and drink and so much more to this solemn expression of faith, so please stay tuned…
Jesús among the jacaranda
Posted in Celebrations, Culture, Food, Holidays, Religion, Travel & Tourism, tagged bread, Christianity, Domingo de Ramos, fruit, herbs, Holy Week, jacaranda, Jesus, Mexico, Oaxaca, Palm Sunday, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, San Antonino Castillo Velasco, San Salvador image, Semana Santa, vegetables on April 9, 2017| 2 Comments »
Una muestra (a sample) from another sublime Domingo de Ramos (Palm Sunday) in San Antonino Castillo Velasco.
Under the lavender canopy of jacaranda, Jesús (wearing his red cape) and his burro enter the church courtyard laden with the rich bounty of the village.
More to come…
Setting the Semana Santa scene
Posted in Celebrations, Churches, Creativity, Culture, Religion, Travel & Tourism, tagged decorations, Domingo de Ramos, Easter, Holy Week, Mexico, Oaxaca, Palm Sunday, popular travel destinations, Semana Santa on April 8, 2017| 1 Comment »
Tomorrow is Domingo de Ramos (Palm Sunday) and the start of Semana Santa (Holy Week). In preparation, the palm weavers from the pueblitos of the Mixteca have come down to the city to work their magic and sell their wares under the watchful eye of the Catedral de Nuestra Señora de la Asunción.
Ladders have been hauled out onto the sidewalks, so windows and doorways can be decorated in purple and white. Why those colors? You might well ask.
According to The Color Symbolism of Lent and Easter, purple “is a deep, almost night-like color that focuses our attention on the fasting and repentance associated with the Lenten season…. As an act of derision toward Our Lord, Pilate placed a purple robe on Jesus, whom he called “‘King of the Jews’” and white “symbolizes both the bright light of the moment of Resurrection and the purity of God’s love for His People.”
However, the above mentioned website also states that the color of Palm Sunday, itself, is red, “.” I will take note tomorrow when I return to San Antonino Castillo Velasco for their very special way of celebrating Palm Sunday.
Masks and more at Carnaval
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Holidays, Religion, Travel & Tourism, tagged bodypaint, Carnaval, Carnival, Fat Tuesday, Mardi Gras, mascaras, masks, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, San Martín Tilcajete, Shrove Tuesday on March 27, 2017| 3 Comments »
Besides a mock wedding with men dressed as women, mentioned in my previous post, Carnaval (Carnival, Mardi Gras, Fat Tuesday, Shrove Tuesday) in San Martín Tilcajete also means young men covered in motor oil (yuck!) and paint running through the village with belts of cowbells ringing.
And, it means muchas máscaras de madera — in this village famous for its fantastical hand-painted alebrije woodcarvings and masks.
Some of my favorite masks and body paint were done by Jesus Sosa Calvo, his talented wife, Juana Vicente Ortega Fuente, and their gifted children. (See the mask I gave to my son, carved by Apolinar, one of their sons.) If you are in San Martín Tilcajete, be sure to see their work at Matlacihua Arte (right across from the zócalo on the main street).
The Spanish brought this pre-Lenten tradition to Mexico and, like many other seasonal celebrations, it conveniently coincided with indigenous festivals celebrating the “lost days” of the Mesoamerican calendar, “when faces were covered to repel or confuse evil.” Apparently, it caught on “because it was one time when normal rules could be broken especially with the use of masks to hide identities from the authorities.”
Masks, motor oil, face and body paint, you name it, disguised and anonymous was the order of the day!
Guys as gals at Carnaval
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Holidays, Religion, Travel & Tourism, tagged Black and white photography, Carnaval, Carnival, cross-dressing, Mardi Gras, men dressed as women, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, San Martín Tilcajete, Shrove Tuesday on March 25, 2017| 3 Comments »
Among other highlights, Carnaval/Carnival in San Martín Tilcajete features a mock wedding, quinceañera, and beautiful fabulously dressed and accessorized “women.”
The day before Lent in San Martín Tilcajete 2017. As they say in New Orleans, “Laissez les bons temps rouler!”
Want to translate this blog?
Where is Oaxaca?
Weather in Oaxaca?
What is the Exchange Rate?
-
Categories
-
Want to read recent posts?
- For the love of murals
- Numbers in my neighborhood
- Focusing on the joy
- ¡Feliz Nochebuena!
- Food glorious food!
- Of marigolds and fruit
- Serenade for the departed
- Beacon to my departed
- No Kings, Oaxaca style!
- Independence Day, Oaxaca style
- La Guelaguetza 2025 – live stream
- There and here
- Happy Birthday Oaxaca de Juárez
- A donkey not a warhorse
- Honoring the artisans
- Blogging in the time of…
- Valentine’s love from Oaxaca
- Taste of my return
- Felices fiestas to all!
- Month of Juquila, Guadalupe & Soledad
Archives
What tags are most used?
art artists Ayotzinapa Barrio de Jalatlaco Basilica de la Soledad Black and white photography cactus California Carnaval Carnival Casita Colibrí celebrations cemetery Christmas convite coronavirus fallout costumes COVID-19 fallout dance dancers Danza de la Pluma danzantes Day of the Dead Día de los Muertos Día de Muertos Easter El Picacho festivals Fiesta de la Preciosa Sangre de Cristo flowers food food festival garden Good Friday graffiti Guelaguetza Holy Week markets mascaras masks mercados Mexican Independence Day Mexico murals music Oaxaca panteón papel picado parade parades photographs photos plants Plaza de la Danza popular travel destinations protests restaurants San Antonino Castillo Velasco San Martín Tilcajete Semana Santa skeletons stencil art street art students Teotitlán del Valle textiles Tlacolula de Matamoros traje travel trees urban art video Viernes Santo Virgen de Guadalupe wall artWant to email me?
-
This work by spixl is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-Noncommercial-No Derivative Works 3.0 United States License.
Mexican Peso Converter
View From Casita Colibrí 