View from Casita Colibrí yesterday morning. Ahhh…
Posts Tagged ‘photos’
Oh, what a beautiful morning!
Posted in Churches, Gardens, Home, tagged African Tulip trees, Basilica de la Soledad, Casita Colibrí, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, Templo de San José on November 15, 2012| 3 Comments »
Mural of Oaxaca history
Posted in Buildings, Culture, History, People, Travel & Tourism, tagged art, Arturo García Bustos, Benito Juárez, Government Palace, José María Morelos y Pavón, Margarita Maza, Mexico, mural, Oaxaca, painting, Palacio de Gobierno, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, Porfirio Díaz, Ricardo Flores Magon on November 11, 2012| 8 Comments »
Last night I walked down to Oaxaca’s Palacio de Gobierno at the south end of the zócalo. This former government palace is now a museum and I was headed up to the second floor to see two more Oaxaca FilmFest3 films. I was early, the building was mostly empty, and so I took the opportunity to really study the mural that graces the walls of the main staircase. Painted in 1980 by Arturo García Bustos, the mural depicts the history of Oaxaca.
Coming up the stairs, to the left, the customs and lifestyle of the Mixtecs, Zapotecs, and Aztecs of pre-Hispanic times unfold.
As you ascend further, on the right wall the Spanish conquest is portrayed.
However, it is the center section of the mural that grabs the attention. Best seen when one reaches the top, here Bustos, pulls out all the stops in representing the one hundred years from the War of Independence through the Reform Movement to the Mexican Revolution.
Featured in the upper right corner of this panel, wearing his signature red bandanna, is War of Independence hero, José María Morelos y Pavón. He can also be seen in the lower right with a printing press, in his role as publisher of Oaxaca’s first newspaper, El Correo del Sur. On the upper left is anarchist and Mexican revolutionary hero, Ricardo Flores Magón. He is also pictured holding a banner reading, Tierra y Libertad (Land and Liberty). Flores Magón is the namesake of the street that borders the west side of the Government Palace.
However, front and center is Oaxaca’s favorite son, Zapotec, former governor of Oaxaca, and Mexico’s much beloved five-term president, Benito Juárez. He and his Oaxaqueña wife, Margarita Maza, hover prominently above his Reform Movement cabinet. The full text of the ribbon is a quote by Juárez, “El respeto al derecho ajeno es la paz” (Respect for the rights of others is peace). It appears on the State of Oaxaca’s coat of arms.
Juárez is also pictured along with the cabinet and third from his right stands another Oaxaqueño, the young, menacing-looking, and far from beloved by the 99%, Porfirio Díaz, trademark epaulettes and all — a portend of things to come.
Following his death in 1872, the city and municipality of Oaxaca honored Benito Juárez by changing its name to Oaxaca de Juárez.
and now FilmFest3
Posted in Creativity, Culture, People, Travel & Tourism, tagged entertainment, film, film festivals, Filmfest3, Matt Dunnerstick, Mexico, movies, Oaxaca, Oaxaca Film Festival, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, Postmodern Times, Ramiz Adeeb Azar, The Game, Tilt on November 9, 2012| 2 Comments »
Still recovering from last week’s Día de los Muertos celebrations, another marathon of activities is upon us — last night the third Oaxaca FilmFest opened. With 10 days, 25 venues, 300 films, 5 days of academic programs, among many other events, I can see it’s going to be no rest for the weary!
So, with Golden Key passes (approx. US$11.50) hanging from our necks, last night my indomitable 86-year old neighbor and I walked down to the festival’s headquarters at Plaza San Jerónimo on the Alcalá for the opening night cocktail party. Gringos and international filmmakers mingled with a predominantly young and hip Oaxaqueño crowd. Needless to say, cervesas, mezcal, and horchata flowed freely, accompanied by yummy (though less plentiful) botanas.
We eventually wound our way over to Teatro Juárez to hear founder and artistic director, Ramiz Adeeb Azar, welcome an almost full house, open the festival, and introduce the three opening night films: shorts, Postmodern Times from Austria and The Game from Poland and feature length film, Tilt from Bulgaria and Germany. All three were gripping, thought provoking, and held the audience’s attention. (Chris, they all passed the Low Cough Principle test.) It was a good start!
During the course of the evening, we spoke with two American screenwriters, who each have scripts entered in a Script Competition, and American filmmaker Matt Dunnerstick, whose film, The Custom Mary, will be screened tonight and again later in the festival. It’s truly an international festival and (at least last night) all the films were subtitled in both Spanish and English, as is all the program material.
I can’t believe how much bigger and more professional this festival has gotten in only three years. I attended in 2010, the first year, and coming off eight years of volunteering at the Mill Valley Film Festival and attending for many more, I was underwhelmed and thus ignored last year’s Oaxaca FilmFest. All I can say is, you’ve come a long way, baby! I’m glad I’ve got my Golden Key pass and, like these folks, I will be intently studying my program booklet and scheduling grid.
I’ll see you at the movies!!!
Face painting, muertos style
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Holidays, Religion, Travel & Tourism, tagged calaveras, Catrinas, cemetery, Day of the Dead, Día de los Muertos, face painting, Mexico, Oaxaca, panteón, Panteón General, photographs, photos, San Antonino Castillo Velasco on November 6, 2012| 2 Comments »
In addition to graveside gatherings and decoration, altars, parades, sugar skulls, sand paintings, marigolds, and Day of the Dead bread, painted faces are another distinctive feature of Día de Muertos celebrations. They are most likely seen hanging around cemeteries and dancing through the streets but, like everything else here, you just never know…
From Meaning of Dia de los Muertos Face Painting:
The day of the dead in Mexico is a fascinating mixture of Spanish Catholic and native Aztec traditions and beliefs. Skulls and skeletons were an important part of All Saints Day festivals in medieval Europe, especially since the Black Death ravaged the population of Europe in the 1300s. Across Europe artists, playwrights and poets mused on the theme of ‘memento mori’ (remember death) and the ‘dance of the dead’. Many artworks and books from the time depict dancing skeletons, or portraits with a skull to ‘remember death’.
At the same time, in Mexico, the Aztec culture believed life on earth to be something of an illusion – death was a positive step forward into a higher level of conscience. For the Aztecs skulls were a positive symbol, not only of death but also of rebirth.
Read full article here.
Mi altar y mi pan
Posted in Celebrations, Culture, Food, Holidays, Travel & Tourism, tagged altar, Day of the Dead, day of the dead bread, Día de los Muertos, food, Mexico, Oaxaca, ofrenda, pan de muerto, photographs, photos, sugar skulls on November 1, 2012| 3 Comments »
Last night we went to my favorite panteon (cemetery) at Atzompa, today we visited six villages, and tonight I went with out-of-town guests to the Panteon General here in Oaxaca. First thing tomorrow morning a comparsa (parade) and then probably off to Teotitlán del Valle. I’ve already taken hundreds and hundreds of photos, but there has been no time to even look at them!
So, in the meantime… My pan de muerto (Day of the Dead bread) from Sunday’s trip to Tlacolula.
Very special pan de muerto from Restaurante La Abeja just a few blocks from Casita Colibrí. This one will eventually get two coats of shellac and join her sister (purchased last year) hanging on the wall.
Last, but not least, my altar where photos of departed family and friends join apples, tangerines, pan de muerto, sugar skulls, candles, and incense of copal.
This is a magical time to be in Oaxaca.
Other worldly
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Music, Travel & Tourism, tagged Alejandra Robles, catrina, Day of the Dead, Día de los Muertos, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations on October 31, 2012| Leave a Comment »
Lighting, costumes, music, and dance combined to envelop last night’s audience at the Teatro Macedonio Alcalá in an other worldly experience. Catrina is a magical tale where the world of the living converges with the world of the dead and the central theme is the pain of a mother losing her daughter.
The show is a celebration of the pre-Columbian traditions and culture of Oaxaca, especially the ritual and meaning surrounding Día de los Muertos. Much of the music was traditional Oaxacan and most performers were Oaxaqueños, including Alejandra Robles, singing the title role.
At 48% (that’s over 1.6 million people), the state of Oaxaca has the second highest indigenous population in Mexico. Perhaps that is why the belief systems of the ancient Mexicans Octavio Paz, cites in The Labyrinth of Solitude, remain strong today. He writes, “Life extended into death, and vice-versa. Death was not the natural end of life but one phase of an infinite cycle.” Healthier, more realistic, and more comforting, I think…
High heeled in Oaxaca
Posted in Churches, Culture, Religion, Travel & Tourism, tagged clothing, high heels, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, San Judas Tadeo, Santo Domingo, St. Jude, style, tacones, weddings on October 28, 2012| 5 Comments »
Friends from the USA arrived on Friday and yesterday I played tour guide, showing them around the city. It was great fun! Up to Organic Market we went, pausing along the way to photograph the always amazing street art (future blog posts), stumbling on a vela in honor of San Judas Tadeo (aka, St. Jude, patron of desperate causes and hospitals) at Carmen Alta church with women in full Tehuana traje (think: Frida Kahlo), and catching a wedding at Santo Domingo, with requisite band, dancers, monos, marmota, and women wearing impossibly high heels.

I don’t think I could even stand on a smooth flat surface, let alone walk on cobblestones in stilettos like that. If I even tried, I suspect I would wind up on the ground and severely tempted to start praying to San Judas Tadeo!
However, weddings at Santo Domingo are for the socially prominent and wealthy.
I am neither well connected nor well heeled, so I don’t think I will be called upon to go shopping for tacones (high heels) in the near future. If such an unlikely invite were to come my way, I might be tempted to follow this young guest’s lead…
Unbelievably, according to Mexico Retold’s recent humorous blog post, Tacos y Tacones, Mexico City actually played host to a 100 meter High Heel Race. My ankles ached just watching the video and I’m inclined to think the only thing high heels are good for is reclining…

As the old saying goes, “Come on in, take a load off!”
The girls are back in town, pt. 2
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Holidays, Travel & Tourism, tagged calaveras, catrina, Catrinas, Day of the Dead, Día de Muertos, Días de Muertos, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, skeletons on October 26, 2012| Leave a Comment »
This Catrina arrived styling and ready to party.
Manicured fingers and toes, flower in her hair, and umbrella drink in hand, all she needs is a guy (or gal).
Young man beware — she has her eye on you!
The girls are back in town
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Holidays, Travel & Tourism, tagged calaveras, Catrinas, Day of the Dead, Día de Muertos, Días de Muertos, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, skeletons on October 25, 2012| Leave a Comment »
And, guess who’s coming to dinner? Catrinas, pinkies up!
Dahling, don’t start the party without me!
Lo siento mis amigas, sending regrets from Juchitán.
Decisions, decisions, decisions… Shall I take the Jetta, Crossfox, Suburban, or Express Van???
As for these two…
I’m not sure they are coming.
Hmmm… a lover’s quarrel? Sheesh, even in the afterlife??!!!
Señor del Rayo having his day
Posted in Celebrations, Churches, Culture, Holidays, Religion, Travel & Tourism, tagged castillo, Catedral de Oaxaca, Cathedral, lilies, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, religion, Señor del Rayo, torito on October 23, 2012| 6 Comments »
The announcement came at midnight with the ringing of the Cathedral’s bells and explosions of cohetes (rockets). Today el Señor del Rayo is having his day! Like Guelaguetza, Noche de Rabanós (Night of the Radishes), and Día de la Samaritana (Good Samaritan Day), this is an “only in Oaxaca” celebration.
The carving of Christ on the Cross was brought to Oaxaca during the 16th century and was placed in the temple of San Juan de Dios, a church which had adobe walls and a straw (or possibly wood) roof. Legend has it that lightning struck the church and everything was destroyed, save for this figurine. Un milagro! It was christened Señor del Rayo (Lord of Lightning), was given its own chapel in the newly built cathedral, and has been much venerated ever since.
On Sunday, October 21, el Señor del Rayo is moved from his capilla (last chapel on the left) to the main altar. The cathedral fills with lilies (the scent “breathtaking”), and the faithful flock to pray before Señor del Rayo. When one inhales the fragrance, one exhales a heavenly, “ahhhh…”
Like all good Mexican celebrations, be they religious or secular, there will be pirotécnicos tonight. Toritos de luces (little paper-mache bulls wired with fireworks) have begun gathering.
And, as I write, the frame of the castillo below has been raised to its “upright and locked position,” its various spinning appendages have been affixed, and gunpowder tracks are waiting to be lit.
Alas, the action doesn’t begin until around 10:00 PM. The spirit is willing, but it’s been a busy day, and this “too too solid flesh” is looking forward to melting into her bed. Think I’ll just watch the fireworks from the terrace. I know, what a wimp!!!
Here’s looking at you, kid
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Religion, Travel & Tourism, tagged calaveras, Day of the Dead, Día de los Muertos, Días de Muertos, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, skeletons, stencils, Virgen de Guadalupe, Virgin of Guadalupe, wall art on October 20, 2012| Leave a Comment »
I’ve got my eye on you…
I’m praying for you…
You just never know who might be looking over your shoulder.
Días de los Muertos are coming…
Atzompa archeological site
Posted in Archaeology, Culture, Travel & Tourism, tagged archaelogical site, archaeological zone, archaeology, Mexico, nature, Oaxaca, photography, photos, plants, popular travel destinations, Santa María Atzompa, Zona Arqueologica de Atzompa on October 18, 2012| 8 Comments »
At long last, and with not much fanfare, the Atzompa archeological site is open to the public!
The winding road, cut into the side of the mountain, has been visible for a while and we could see platforms when we were up at Monte Alban (about 5 miles away) two weeks ago.
It’s a bit of a hike up a newly paved road from the small (temporary?) parking area under the pine trees, but we eventually reached the site and the ball court.
It is small, but the setting is spectacular.
One can see a recreation of the 1,000+ year old Zapotec kiln that was uncovered 8 feet down — offering proof of continuity to today’s renown potters of Santa María Atzompa.
Then there is the vegetation…. The architecture of native trees adds to aura of this ancient site.
And, the white flowers of one of the trees has attracted the tiniest hummingbirds I’ve ever seen.
Nopal cactus, in full fruit (tunas) at this time of year, dot the landscape.
Archaeologists and their crews continue their work excavating and restoring, and much is blocked from amateur exploration, including the 1,100-year-old burial chamber. Darn!
The only “facilities” available at the site, thus far, are bathrooms (which were a trip, but I won’t go into it). Lest you worry about comida for the workers, it arrived by motorcycle and was waiting in insulated boxes in the parking area.
Aside from those working at the site, we had the place to ourselves… no tour groups and no vendors. We were left alone to listen to the birds and insects and imagine a highly developed culture, alive with the ancestors of the energetic, creative, and spiritual people we are privileged to live among.
























































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