Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Holidays, Travel & Tourism, tagged calaveras, Catrinas, Day of the Dead, Día de Muertos, Días de Muertos, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, skeletons on October 25, 2012| Leave a Comment »
And, guess who’s coming to dinner? Catrinas, pinkies up!
Dahling, don’t start the party without me!
Lo siento mis amigas, sending regrets from Juchitán.
Decisions, decisions, decisions… Shall I take the Jetta, Crossfox, Suburban, or Express Van???
As for these two…
I’m not sure they are coming.
Hmmm… a lover’s quarrel? Sheesh, even in the afterlife??!!!
Posted in Celebrations, Churches, Culture, Holidays, Religion, Travel & Tourism, tagged castillo, Catedral de Oaxaca, Cathedral, lilies, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, religion, Señor del Rayo, torito on October 23, 2012| 6 Comments »
The announcement came at midnight with the ringing of the Cathedral’s bells and explosions of cohetes (rockets). Today el Señor del Rayo is having his day! Like Guelaguetza, Noche de Rabanós (Night of the Radishes), and Día de la Samaritana (Good Samaritan Day), this is an “only in Oaxaca” celebration.
The carving of Christ on the Cross was brought to Oaxaca during the 16th century and was placed in the temple of San Juan de Dios, a church which had adobe walls and a straw (or possibly wood) roof. Legend has it that lightning struck the church and everything was destroyed, save for this figurine. Un milagro! It was christened Señor del Rayo (Lord of Lightning), was given its own chapel in the newly built cathedral, and has been much venerated ever since.
On Sunday, October 21, el Señor del Rayo is moved from his capilla (last chapel on the left) to the main altar. The cathedral fills with lilies (the scent “breathtaking”), and the faithful flock to pray before Señor del Rayo. When one inhales the fragrance, one exhales a heavenly, “ahhhh…”
Like all good Mexican celebrations, be they religious or secular, there will be pirotécnicos tonight. Toritos de luces (little paper-mache bulls wired with fireworks) have begun gathering.
And, as I write, the frame of the castillo below has been raised to its “upright and locked position,” its various spinning appendages have been affixed, and gunpowder tracks are waiting to be lit.
Alas, the action doesn’t begin until around 10:00 PM. The spirit is willing, but it’s been a busy day, and this “too too solid flesh” is looking forward to melting into her bed. Think I’ll just watch the fireworks from the terrace. I know, what a wimp!!!
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Religion, Travel & Tourism, tagged calaveras, Day of the Dead, Día de los Muertos, Días de Muertos, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, skeletons, stencils, Virgen de Guadalupe, Virgin of Guadalupe, wall art on October 20, 2012| Leave a Comment »
I’ve got my eye on you…
I’m praying for you…
You just never know who might be looking over your shoulder.
Días de los Muertos are coming…
Posted in Archaeology, Culture, Travel & Tourism, tagged archaelogical site, archaeological zone, archaeology, Mexico, nature, Oaxaca, photography, photos, plants, popular travel destinations, Santa María Atzompa, Zona Arqueologica de Atzompa on October 18, 2012| 8 Comments »
At long last, and with not much fanfare, the Atzompa archeological site is open to the public!
The winding road, cut into the side of the mountain, has been visible for a while and we could see platforms when we were up at Monte Alban (about 5 miles away) two weeks ago.
It’s a bit of a hike up a newly paved road from the small (temporary?) parking area under the pine trees, but we eventually reached the site and the ball court.
It is small, but the setting is spectacular.
One can see a recreation of the 1,000+ year old Zapotec kiln that was uncovered 8 feet down — offering proof of continuity to today’s renown potters of Santa María Atzompa.
Then there is the vegetation…. The architecture of native trees adds to aura of this ancient site.
And, the white flowers of one of the trees has attracted the tiniest hummingbirds I’ve ever seen.
Nopal cactus, in full fruit (tunas) at this time of year, dot the landscape.
Archaeologists and their crews continue their work excavating and restoring, and much is blocked from amateur exploration, including the 1,100-year-old burial chamber. Darn!
The only “facilities” available at the site, thus far, are bathrooms (which were a trip, but I won’t go into it). Lest you worry about comida for the workers, it arrived by motorcycle and was waiting in insulated boxes in the parking area.
Aside from those working at the site, we had the place to ourselves… no tour groups and no vendors. We were left alone to listen to the birds and insects and imagine a highly developed culture, alive with the ancestors of the energetic, creative, and spiritual people we are privileged to live among.
Posted in Culture, Religion, Travel & Tourism, tagged balcony, children, decorative iron bars, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs popular travel destinations, photos, praying figurines, Teotitlán del Valle on October 16, 2012| Leave a Comment »
I don’t know about these two hanging out on a balcony above Independencia, yesterday.
But, who could resist these two??? Waiting for the convite in Teotitlán del Valle last week.
Posted in Buildings, Churches, Religion, Travel & Tourism, tagged architecture, churches, iglesias, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, Templo de San Felipe Neri on October 14, 2012| 5 Comments »
Yesterday, standing on the terrace, playing with the zoom on my new camera. Looking southeast, as the sun was about to disappear behind the sierras to the west.
Templo de San Felipe Neri, a couple of blocks from Casita Colibrí.
Templo de San Francisco, about twelve blocks away. Going to keep working on it, but liking my little Lumix!
h/t Chris
Posted in Culture, Travel & Tourism, tagged culture, Danza de los diablos, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, traditional dances on October 10, 2012| 1 Comment »
Today, in my mind, I was working on a different blog post. And then, walking home from my Spanish lesson, I came across these guys — and whips were cracking!
Hmmm… they weren’t there an hour (plus) before. As I’ve said before, you just never know what you may find when you round a corner.
Darn, before I had a chance to ask what was going on, the sky opened and everyone ran for cover — including me!
However, I’m thinking somewhere in the city, a Danza de los Diablos is happening!
Posted in Celebrations, Culture, Religion, Travel & Tourism, tagged convite, Fiesta de la Virgen del Rosario, flor inmortal, La Santísima Virgen del Rosario, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, Teotitlán del Valle, travel, Virgin of the Rosary on October 8, 2012| 3 Comments »
It’s that time of year, again. Daylight doesn’t last quite as long, the large red-orange blossoms of the African tulip trees have mostly fallen (onto my terrace!), and the hummingbirds have mostly departed, leaving the airspace to the dragonflies and butterflies.
However, the season of yellow marigolds (cempazuchitl) and the yellows, oranges, and purples of flor inmortal (immortal flower) has begun and that means Días de los Muertos and Noche de Rabanos can’t be far behind.
In the meantime, during the past week, Teotitlán del Valle celebrated La Santísima Virgen del Rosario and early Friday evening, the unmarried girls and women gathered with their canastas for the traditional convite (holy procession).
And, given the season, flor inmortal played a prominent role in the decorations of many of the canastas.
And, as always, I’m amazed and captivated by the girls and women who, with arms raised, balance these sizable baskets on their head, as they navigate the sacred route along the cobbled (and, this day, rain-slicked) streets of Teotitlán del Valle — for almost an hour!
It’s a scene that I never tire of — of course, I’m not carrying a canasta on my head!
More photos and commentary over at Oaxaca-The Year After.
Posted in Archaeology, Environment, Gardens, Parks & Plazas, Science & Nature, Travel & Tourism, tagged archaelogical site, archaeological zone, archaeology, flowers, Mexico, Monte Albán, nature, Oaxaca, photography, photos, plants, popular travel destinations, wildflowers on October 6, 2012| 2 Comments »
Fifteen hundred years may have passed since Monte Albán was in full bloom as the center of Zapotec civilization. However, the flowering continues…
Monte Albán on an early October morning.
Posted in Archaeology, Buildings, Culture, Parks & Plazas, Travel & Tourism, tagged archaelogical site, archaeological zone, archaeology, Mexico, Monte Albán, Oaxaca, photography, photos, popular travel destinations on October 4, 2012| 3 Comments »
Posted in Environment, Gardens, Parks & Plazas, Science & Nature, Weather, tagged Alameda, Indian Laurel tree, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, trees, zócalo on October 2, 2012| Leave a Comment »
Instead of the coming of age novel, A Tree Grows in Brooklyn, we have the real life drama of a tree falls in Oaxaca. Heading down to the mercado this morning, I was brought up short by this heartbreaking sight.
According to reports, there were many present to hear and see one of the grand 130+ year old Indian laurels topple during a storm on Saturday night. And, worst of all, ten people were injured, two seriously. Trees in the city, including Indian laurels in the Zócalo, have been plagued by adversity. A laurel in the Zócalo fell a few years ago, damaging a nearby building, and most recently in May 2011, I wrote about a laurel on the Alameda that toppled. Resurrection was attempted and guy-wires remain to this day holding it upright. I guess the experts decided this latest one was beyond rescue.
Controversy reigns, as many assert that these trees should be able to withstand the rain and less-than gale force winds. Thus speculation over the cause runs rampant. Root rot appears to be the immediate culprit but the big question is, why?
And, as Chris sadly noted a couple of months ago, regarding the diseased flamboyant trees in front of Santo Domingo de Guzmán, Any tree is hard to replace.
Posted in Creativity, Culture, Travel & Tourism, tagged art, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, street art, thomas wolfe on October 1, 2012| 2 Comments »
All things on earth point home in old October; sailors to sea, travellers to walls and fences… — Thomas Wolfe.
It’s good to be back in Oaxaca.
Posted in Creativity, Culture, Markets, Travel & Tourism, tagged automobilies, California, cars, farmers' market, Linda Ellerbee quote, markets, mercados, Mexico, Mill Valley, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, Porche, similarities, vegetables, VW bug, wall art, Zio Ziegler on September 28, 2012| 12 Comments »
I’m back in Oaxaca… arrived last night after a brief trip to El Norte. However, over the last three years, culture shock (on both sides of the border) has subsided and I am struck and heartened that despite our differences, humans share so much more… especially the compulsion to make even the most common and utilitarian, beautiful.
Artist, Zio Ziegler added a little pizzazz to a car in Mill Valley… (Yes, I know, a Porche!)
Car in Oaxaca… (Ahhh, a VW bug!)
Wall in Mill Valley (also by Zio Ziegler)…
Wall in Oaxaca…
Veggies in Mill Valley…
Veggies in Oaxaca…
From one of my favorite journalists, Linda Ellerbee: “People are pretty much alike. It’s only that our differences are more susceptible to definition than our similarities.”
Posted in Creativity, Serendipity, Travel & Tourism, tagged art, art car, California, found objects, Marin County, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, Sausalito on September 26, 2012| 3 Comments »
Lost or discarded?
Artist found and created in Sausalito, Ca. You better believe it!
And please, don’t “liberate” any of the found objects, in other words… stop stealing!!!
La lucha continúa. Paz y amor a todos.
Posted in Science & Nature, Travel & Tourism, tagged beaches, California, foggy day, Marin County, Mexico, Oaxaca, Pacific Ocean, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, Puerto Escondido, San Francisco Bay Area, Stinson Beach on September 24, 2012| 1 Comment »
I grew up and lived most of my life twenty minutes from the Pacific Ocean. I learned to drive on the road up over Mt. Tamalpais out to Stinson, Muir, and Bolinas beaches. Needless to say, countless trips followed and continue! So, yesterday I made my regular “Bay Area visit” pilgrimage to the beach. Even on a foggy day, the sights, sounds, and smells of Stinson Beach are magical…
Alas, it’s 6 hours by car up and over the long and winding roads of the Sierra Madre del Sur to reach Puerto Escondido, Oaxaca’s closest Pacific Ocean beach. The alternatives: 10+ hours by bus (by way of Salina Cruz) or a short but costly flight. Still waiting for the long-promised highway that is supposed to cut auto travel time to two hours!!!
Mexican Peso Converter
View From Casita Colibrí 