Posted in Creativity, Culture, Transportation, Travel & Tourism, tagged automobiles, cars, graffiti, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, street art, turquoise, urban art, Vocho, Volkswagen Beetle, VW, VW bug on February 7, 2016| Leave a Comment »
Unfortunately, not Cuba. (One of these days…)
Saw it yesterday walking down Tinoco y Palacios, on my way home from Mercado Sanchez Pascuas.
Leather upholstery, wood steering wheel, and paneled dashboard — it’s one very cool vocho.
However, when it comes to telling a color story, wish it had been parked a couple of blocks down the hill, in front of this wall. 😉
Posted in Casita Colibrí, Churches, Travel & Tourism, tagged Basilica de la Soledad, churches, Mexico, Morning Has Broken, morning light, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations on February 5, 2016| 6 Comments »
Yesterday, I opened my front door to the Basilica de la Soledad glowing in the morning light. I grabbed my little Lumix and ran out to compose a photo to send as a Feliz Cumpleaños greeting to a friend celebrating his birthday.
And the song, Morning Has Broken by Yusuf Islam (aka, Cat Stevens), began playing in my mind. Ahhh…
Posted in Children, Creativity, Culture, Travel & Tourism, tagged baskets, canastas, Carrizo, Fairs, Feria del Carrizo, folkloric dance, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, portraits, San Juan Guelavia on February 1, 2016| 6 Comments »
Because last year’s fair was so much fun and I’m still loving my lampshades, blogger buddy Chris and I returned to San Juan Guelavia yesterday for the 5th Feria del Carrizo. Upon arriving, our first surprise was being directed to a dirt estacionamiento (one of my favorite words, means parking lot) next to, what looked to be, a rodeo arena. It was quickly followed by surprise number two: The plaza crowded with people — at least ten times the number as last year! Aside from two friends who were leaving (arms filled with purchases), we didn’t see many extranjeros. However, we ran into several friends from Teotitlán del Valle and Tlacolula and at lunch sat across from some visitors from Mexico City.
We arrived just in time for the official ribbon cutting that signaled the opening of the fair. We didn’t recognize any of the dignitaries, though most everyone else did and masses of cell phones rose high in the air to record the event. Once the ceremonial duties were done, chairs were pushed back and a children’s folkloric dance group marched in to the familiar music of the China Oaxaqueña delegation heard during La Guelaguetza. There was even a mini-torito (toritito?) wired with fireworks that was lit, though one of the little girls didn’t appear too thrilled. And, as we wandered around, we could hear music that we recognized from some of the other regions of Oaxaca and we caught glimpses of more of the kids dancing.
Unfortunately, woven plastic baskets have become a more common sight at the markets in the valley of Oaxaca. So, the growing popularity of the fair is good news for a community that has seen a decline in the demand for their beautiful handcrafted baskets made from carrizo (aka, Arundo donax, Spanish cane, Giant cane, Wild Cane, and Colorado River weed) — a tall perennial cane that grows along river banks in Oaxaca. Besides traditional baskets and bird cages, the artisans have branched out to making lamps and shades, weaving decorative bottle covers for your mezcal, fashioning toys, and much more. Naturally, I again couldn’t resist and happily came away with a new hamper.
The Feria del Carrizo is also happening next Sunday, February 7. SO, if you are in the neighborhood (San Juan Guelavia is only about 40 minutes east of the city), I highly recommend a visit and be sure to also stop at the tiendas on road into town — that’s actually where I bought my new hamper (above).
Posted in Politics, Sports & Recreation, Technology, Travel & Tourism, tagged drones, Mexico, Oaxaca, Pasión por Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations on January 30, 2016| 10 Comments »
Drones have arrived in Oaxaca; their hummy-buzzy sound is unmistakable. My first “close encounter” of the drone kind down here was 2+ years ago at the Estadio Eduardo Vasconcelos (baseball stadium) when a drone made an appearance at the Lluvia de Estrellas charity home run derby and softball game.
However, two weeks ago as I walked onto the Alameda, that telltale sound caught my ear and a low flying drone caught my eye. Apparently, it was being used by the Pasión por Oaxaca to draw attention to their (political) organization’s booth. “Smile, you’re on Candid Camera!”
Then early yesterday morning, there was that sound again. Looking out the window I could see a drone in the distance. Of course, I grabbed my camera and went out to investigate. I guess the operator/pilot saw me, because soon the drone was flying toward my terrace, then stopped to pose for several seconds, before flying off.
Sheesh, Señor DeMille, I was still in my pajamas and definitely NOT ready for my close-up!
Posted in Buildings, Creativity, Culture, Museums, Travel & Tourism, tagged art, CASA, Centro de las Artes de San Agustín, design, Francisco Toledo, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, San Agustín Etla on January 27, 2016| Leave a Comment »
Ahhh… a return visit to Centro de las Artes de San Agustín in early December still resonates. The CASA, a former spinning and weaving factory, was re-imagined by artist Francisco Toledo and architect Claudina Morales Lopez. Now it is one of the most aesthetically pleasing spaces I’ve ever experienced. But, why have I never before noticied this?
Inside and outside, seen in black and white or color, wherever one looks, the attention to detail and design strikes, delights, and often surprises.
Posted in Animals, Environment, Gardens, Science & Nature, tagged earthworm farming, earthworms, gardening, lombrisas, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, soil, vermicompost, worm castings, worm humus, worm manure on January 25, 2016| 12 Comments »
Have I mentioned most of the potting soil here leaves much to be desired? As a result, over the past 6+ years, I’ve been experimenting with ways to enhance the soil I’ve been dealt to help my rooftop garden grow. Besides, freezing (to speed up the fiber break down) and then adding green kitchen scraps, augmenting the soil with sawdust and sand, I’ve added worm farming to my arsenal.
Back in early August, blogger buddy and gardening guru Chris and I, armed with our new red bins, headed out to Sikanda (just outside Santa María del Tule) to purchase and be schooled in earthworm (lombriz, en español) farming. 
Our goal was to provide a nurturing environment for earthworms to go forth and multiply and to produce worm casting (aka: vermicompost, worm humus, worm manure) to enrich our soil. Since then, I’ve spent the last five months keeping their home moist and feeding my worms more green kitchen waste, coffee grounds and tea leaves, and garden clippings. Saturday, I finally harvested my first castings.
There are several ways to separate the worms from their castings. I chose the photosensitivity filter method — laying cheesecloth over another bin filled with compost and placing it in the sun, I transferred a thin layer of my worms and their castings onto the cheesecloth.
Earthworms hate the sun and most quickly started burrowing down through the cheesecloth in search of cool moist darkness.. Once the worms had made their way into the moist compost of their new home (stragglers received hand-picked assistance), I removed the cheesecloth, now filled with worm-free castings, and dumped it onto my sifter, where I sifted the nutrient rich castings into my soil bin.
It’s rather time-consuming, but what else did I have to do on a Saturday? It was well worth it and I get to do it all again in three to five months!
Posted in Creativity, Culture, Travel & Tourism, tagged graffiti, Mexico, murals, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, street art, Tlacolula de Matamoros, urban art, women's faces on January 21, 2016| 8 Comments »
Posted in Creativity, Culture, Museums, Travel & Tourism, tagged community museum, cultural center, Danza de la Pluma, danzantes, El Picacho, Mexico, museums, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, Teotitlán del Valle on January 18, 2016| 4 Comments »
As with all of life, there are changes going on in Teotitlán del Valle. A large new Cultural Center is nearing completion. It’s courtesy of the federal government and, according to the sign at the construction site, not a peso is coming from the state or village. From what I’ve been told, it will house the museum, a library, and a performance space.
And, with their final Danza de la Pluma performance on Día de Guadalupe (Dec. 12), the three-year commitment of the last Danzantes de Promesa group was at close. The new group has already begun the demanding work of learning the steps of the 40+ dances that make up the Danza de la Pluma.
Under the watchful eye of El Picacho, Moctezuma, Malinche, Doña Marina, Teotitles, Capitánes, Reyes, and Vasallos practice from 7:00 AM to 1:00 PM, Saturday through Monday to be ready for their debut the first Wednesday in July 2016 during the festival of the Preciosa Sangre de Cristo. A major and meaningful commitment, it is.
Strange fascination, fascinating me
Changes are taking the pace
I’m going through
Ch-ch-ch-ch-Changes
Changes by David Bowie (descansa en paz)
Posted in Exhibitions, Signs, Transportation, Travel & Tourism, tagged drivers' education, driving regulations, exhibitions, Mexico, Oaxaca, Oaxaca motor vehicle code, photographs, photos, reglamento de vialidad del municipio de oaxaca, road safety posters, rules of the road on January 16, 2016| 2 Comments »
If you drive in Oaxaca, you might want to take a stroll down the Alcalá today. In front of MACO, there is an exhibition of rules of the road for the municipality of Oaxaca.
Who knew Oaxaca has an actual motor vehicle code???
If you have ever walked, biked, driven, or ridden, this comes as a pleasant surprise — *surprise* being the operative word!
However, I’m not sure how many drivers stroll the Alcalá… Something tells me that those who need these lessons the most, probably don’t spend their Saturdays promenading along the capital city’s Andador Turístico.
Just so you know… Licensing drivers is up to each state in Mexico and, according to Alvin Starkman, Oaxaca “has done away with virtually all licensing requirements relating to safety: no written test, no road test, no eye test.” Consider yourself forewarned. 😉
Posted in Culture, Markets, Travel & Tourism, tagged Mexico, Oaxaca, otate, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations on January 14, 2016| 6 Comments »
Back in Oaxaca and it’s scenes like this that make me smile…
At the Tinoco y Palacios entrance to the Mercado Sanchez Pascuas. Otate waiting to be made into escobas (brooms)?
Posted in Culture, Parks & Plazas, Sports & Recreation, Travel & Tourism, tagged basketball, basketball courts, cancha de baloncesto, El Picacho, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, Templo de la Preciosa Sangre de Cristo, Teotitlán del Valle on January 11, 2016| Leave a Comment »
Basketball is big right now in the San Francisco Bay Area; as I write the Golden State Warriors are 35 and 2 and a new, albeit controversial, 18,000 seat arena is in the works. But, I’ll bet it won’t have views like these…
Unlike in wider mestizo Mexico, where soccer reigns supreme, in the Sierra basketball is king. The sport was introduced in the 1930s by president Lazaro Cardenas as a way to bring Oaxaca’s disparate and historically rebellious indigenous groups into the national fold.
Cardenas’ dream of a unified national identity didn’t take root in the Sierra, which has historically been isolated and impoverished, but basketball soon became tied to the region’s most significan traditions, and to indigenous identity itself. — Jorge Santiago
One of several canchas de baloncesto (basketball courts) in Teotitlán del Valle, Oaxaca.
Posted in Creativity, Culture, People, Travel & Tourism, tagged Apolinar Sosa, devil mask, mascaras, masks, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, San Martín Tilcajete, wood carving on January 9, 2016| 3 Comments »
A friend (who shall remain anonymous) was persuaded to model the mask I gave one of my sons for Christmas.
It is the work of Apolinar Sosa, the son of distinguished carver Jesus Sosa Calvo and Juana Vicente Ortega Fuentes of San Martín Tilcajete.
This mask won a prize and had actually been worn during the unique Carnaval celebration in the village.
Don’t you love the tongue of dried chiles?
Posted in Celebrations, Culture, Holidays, Travel & Tourism, tagged Christmas, Christmas traditions, inflatable Santa Claus, Mexico, Navidad, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations on December 27, 2015| 1 Comment »
This is how I feel today…
Actually, I took this a few weeks ago on Matamoros (at Tinoco y Palacios) with the intention of writing a blog post lamenting Christmas traditions (Christmas trees, Santa Claus, consumerism, etc.) migrating down from el norte. But, I think I’ll just let the image speak for itself.
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Travel & Tourism, tagged dancers, dried corn husks, flor inmortal, Mexico, Night of the Radishes, Noche de Rabanos, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, Totomoxtle on December 21, 2015| 3 Comments »
The “only in Oaxaca” Noche de Rábanos is coming! If you are in Oaxaca, the zócalo is the place to be on December 23 to watch radishes being carved into familiar and fantastical creations. Among the former, dancers from Oaxaca’s eight regions are a favorite.
Danza de la Pluma dancer in Rábanos Tradicional category 2012
Baile del Guajolote dancer in Rábanos Libre category 2013
Despite of the name, it isn’t just about carved radishes. The artists of Oaxaca work their creative magic in several other categories, including dried flowers…
Chinas Oaxaqueñas in Flor Inmortal category 2012
… and corn husks.
Chinas Oaxaqueñas entry in Totomoxtle Natural category 2012
Jarabe Mixteco dancer in Totomoxtle Decorado category 2012
Danza de los Huenches Viejos de Yalalag in Totomoxtle Decorado category 2012
I wish I could be in two places at one time, so I could experience this year’s Night of the Radishes. If you are lucky enough to be there, enjoy and take lots of photos!
Posted in Celebrations, Culture, Holidays, Travel & Tourism, tagged Danza de la Pluma, danzantes, Día de la Virgen de Guadalupe, decorative gourds, Mexico, Oaxaca, offerings, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, Teotitlán del Valle, Virgen de Guadalupe, Virgin of Guadalupe on December 14, 2015| 8 Comments »
Saturday, like all Mexico, Teotitlán del Valle honored the Virgen de Guadalupe. As they do every December 12, the Danzantes de Promesa danced the Danza de la Pluma. However, this was the last performance by this group; their three-year commitment to their god, church, and community was at an end. And, as is their tradition, the dancers and their families offered the village food, drink, and a party to celebrate.
Dancers and their wives, parents, grandparents, godparents, sisters, brothers, and children came bearing fruits, candy, mezcal, and beer.
The children learn at an early age that it isn’t all about them — they are part of a community and have roles to play and contributions to make.
All ages and genders have a role. The men, more often than not, get the glory but look at these women! They radiate the strength and pride of 2000 years of Teotitlán del Valle, Zapotec history and culture.
As darkness fell and after dancing for several hours, 9-year olds, Juana Lizbeth Contreras (Malinche) and Ailani Ruiz Ruiz (Doña Marina) made the rounds of the thousands gathered on the church plaza to distribute their gifts to their community. It was then that emotion overwhelmed me.
A profound muchisimas gracias to the people of Teotitlán del Valle for being so welcoming over the years to a couple of gringo bloggers. Chris and I are so grateful for your generosity of spirit. Definitely, more to come…
Mexican Peso Converter
View From Casita Colibrí 