Female and male, big and small, menacing growlers and annoying yappers, the roof dogs of Oaxaca are on the job patrolling rooftops in the city and in the countryside. They are so ubiquitous, San Pablo Etla, Oaxaca is the setting for an illustrated children’s book, Pipiolo and the Roof Dogs.
But sometimes one has to ask, “Is it real or is it Memorex?”
What do you think?
Posted in Animals, Culture, Travel & Tourism | Tagged books, children's books, dogs, guard dogs, Mexico, Oaxaca, perros de techo, photographs, photos, Pipiolo and the Roof Dogs, roof dogs, rooftops | 7 Comments »
After the 3-day moving adventure, Monday morning I walked down to the Transporte Terrestre office (next to Oaxaca’s Post Office, across the Alameda from the Cathedral) to buy an airport shuttle ticket for my Tuesday morning, bordering on crack-of-dawn, flight to California. At 55 pesos (less than $4.50 US) from my apartment in the Centro Histórico (more outside the historic district), it’s a bargain.
The driver pulled up at 6 AM on the dot. Unfortunately, instead of ringing my buzzer, he began banging on the massive iron front gate and shouting, thereby waking my neighbors with apartments closer to the gate. Then, of course, there was the fact that, in my physically and (apparently) mentally exhausted state the night before, I’d set my alarm for the wrong time, and had only awakened 20 minutes before his noisy arrival. So, with teeth brushed but no shower, no make-up, and probably irritated neighbors, I set off for el norte. This trip was not off to a promising start!
The other two passengers and I were dropped off at the Oaxaca Xoxocotlán International Airport’s new departure terminal. Modern, light, airy, signs and announcements in Spanish and English, mezcal and gift shops (but no food!) — everything’s up-to-date in Oaxaca’s new departure terminal.
However, one still must walk outside to get to the old terminal (now dedicated to arrivals) where the only bathrooms, before going through security, are located — a minor hiccup for passengers, but a major inconvenience for airport staff! Renovation connecting the two terminals is in the works.
There were only a couple of other people lined up at United’s desk and my turn came in less than 5 minutes. Hoisting my suitcase up on the scale, handing over my passport and flight information, I was prepared to be on my way through security in no time.
Dream on… for some unexplained reason, the United customer service agent did not like what she saw when she ran my passport through the scanner. Conversation with the other agent, calls to a superior (who I could see standing in a doorway on the second floor balcony), more computer input and passport scanning, and the line behind me began growing. Did I mention, this trip was not off to a promising start?
After twenty minutes, whatever problem my passport possessed was miraculously unraveled and I was on my way through security. It was at this point, ravenously hungry, I began silently chanting to the cocina goddess, that a food stall or at least the convenience store would be open. In September (my first experience with the new terminal) I sat, with stomach grumbling, at my gate for an hour before the convenience store opened its doors.
This time around, I and other early morning passengers were in luck — various puestos were open to satisfy hunger pangs, snack food cravings, and caffeine withdrawal. I opted for a generous and delicious cup of coffee and a ham and quesillo torta, topped with tomato, avocado, chile pepper, and lettuce — filling and yummy.
With a happily satisfied stomach, I walked out into Oaxaca’s warm winter morning air, boarded the little Embraer, and, after a brief delay on the tarmac (mechanical difficulty rapidly solved), we took off into the wild (and clear) blue yonder. Circling twice over the city to gain altitude, the pilot provided us with a couple of bird’s-eye views of Monte Albán and the newly opened Atzompa archeological sites. Not a bad beginning, after all — the journey northward was definitely looking up!
Posted in Buildings, Challenges, Food, Renovation, Restaurants, Transportation, Travel & Tourism | Tagged airport shuttle, airports, convenience stores, Mexico, Oaxaca, Oaxaca Xoxocotlan International Airport, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, Transporte Terrestre | 4 Comments »
In the city and in the villages, the signs are everywhere…
The recent article, Native neuroses: Sharing their emotional struggles in Spanish by Marisa Gerber, gives a little background on the popularity of Neuróticos Anónimos, south of the Río Bravo del Norte (aka, Rio Grande).
After two days spent cleaning the new apartment and schlepping the small stuff (boxes, plants, furniture, etc.) down two flights of stairs, across the driveway and up one flight (with a lot of help from my friends), today the moving crew is coming to do the heavy lifting. For some reason the above topic resonates!
Posted in Culture, Health, Signs | Tagged articles, emotional struggles, Marisa Gerber, Mexico, Native neuroses: sharing their emotional struggles in Spanish, Neurótios Anónimos, Neurotics Anonymous, Oaxaca, photographs, photos | 1 Comment »
Last week, my neighbor Marga gave me a cachetada. No, not a slap on the cheek! A cachetada is also a Mexican candy — similar to the dried fruit roll ups my kids used to eat, though I have a sneaking suspicion these may just be dried, dyed, and flavored sugar water. Here is mine, hanging out in Oaxaca.
Cachetada – slap
A Mexican long candy
Red, green, lick or bite
– Haiku by Margarita Shubart –
Posted in Culture, Food, Travel & Tourism | Tagged Cachetada, candy, haiku, Margarita Shubart, mexican candy, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos | 1 Comment »
The packing begins — this is “big move” week. In the meantime, a little more graffiti…
… from under the fútbol (soccer) stadium.
Posted in Creativity, Culture, Parks & Plazas, Travel & Tourism | Tagged artists, arts, graffiti, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, street art, urban art, wall art | 2 Comments »
Sunny, warm, and dry, Oaxaca’s sidewalks, mercados, restaurants, and zócalo are filled with “snowbirds” (the human variety) escaping the bone-chilling and wet wintry weather of el norte. Alas, almost immediately after the previously mentioned “big move” next week, I’m heading in the opposite direction — to the bleak gray north for several weeks to visit family and friends in California (it’s not all bikini beaches and blue sky) and then east to celebrate my first grandchild’s first birthday — the best and maybe only reason to visit upstate New York in the dead of winter! And, if previous return trips to el norte are a predictor, I’ll be missing the warmth and color of Oaxaca almost from the minute I step off the plane.
The “snowbirds” and I have the luxury of coming and going. Some people do not. One of my favorite journalists interviews a young Oaxaqueña trying to support her young daughter by working the fields in Madera, California. As the title suggests, it is a poignant story…
Editor’s Note: Lorena Hernandez is a young farm worker and single mother from Oaxaca, Mexico. Today she lives in Madera, Calif., with her daughter and aunt. She told her story to David Bacon.
Lorena Hernandez picking blueberries [photo by David Bacon]
MADERA, Calif.–To go pick blueberries I have to get up at four in the morning. First I make my lunch to take with me, and then I get dressed for work. For lunch I eat whatever there is in the house, mostly bean tacos. Then the ritero, the person who gives me a ride to work, picks me up at 20 minutes to five.
I work as long as my body can take it, usually until 2:30 in the afternoon. Then the ritero gives me a ride home, and I get there by 3:30 or 4 in the afternoon. By then I’m really tired.
Costs of Rides, Childcare on Little Pay
I pay $8 each way to get to work and back home. Right now they’re paying $6 for each bucket of blueberries you pick, so I have to fill almost three buckets just to cover my daily ride. The contractor I work for, Elias Hernandez, hooks us up with the riteros. He’s the contractor for 50 of us farm workers picking blueberries, and I met him when a friend of my aunt gave me his number.
<snip>
No Vision of My Future
I don’t have friends, just acquaintances from work. They don’t have responsibilities like I do, so they go out on the weekend. They share their stories with me because since I have a daughter, I don’t go out. I just stay at home.
I wash my daughter’s clothes on the weekends because during the week I’m so tired. There isn’t time to clean the house during the week either. That’s what we do on the weekends.
I don’t have a vision of my own future. I don’t really think about it. I know I want to work every day. I don’t think I’ll ever return to school because of my age. My job will be working in the fields. I’m at peace with my current situation. I would love to go back to school, but it’s too late for me. Perhaps one day.
Please read full story HERE.
Posted in Agriculture, Economics, Food, Immigration, Labor, People | Tagged articles, California, David Bacon, farmworkers, Madera, Mexico, migrants, Oaxaca, The Only Job I Can Do, workers | 2 Comments »
A Sunday scene in the zócalo…
Happiness is a warm puppy. — Charles M. Schulz
Posted in Animals, Parks & Plazas | Tagged animals, Charles M. Schulz quote, dogs, happiness is a warm puppy, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, puppies | 2 Comments »
Old news, I know, but couldn’t resist… Mitt may have had his “binders of women,” but Oaxaca has her walls of women and they could kick some serious @#$!!!
Liberty ~ Equality ~ Respect
Posted in Creativity, Culture, Politics, Protests, Travel & Tourism | Tagged art, equality, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, politics, street art, wall art, women | 5 Comments »
I’m moving in a few weeks… not far… just across the driveway… so much to do… so many details to deal with. And, how in the world did I accumulate SO much “stuff” in such a small apartment in only 3-1/2 years??!!!
My sentiments, exactly!
*** Photos are of an art installation on the sidewalk of M. Bravo during the Ma(yo) en Oaxaca 2012.
Posted in Creativity, Culture, Exhibitions, Travel & Tourism | Tagged art, Ma (yo) en Oaxaca, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, public art | 3 Comments »
Early Saturday evening, the Plaza de la Danza played host to the Festival Día de Reyes, an event to delight and distribute a kilometer of donated toys to disadvantaged children. The Kings had kids and their parents seeing double.
Lines began forming two hours in advance to be up-front and close to the stage, all the better to be chosen to participate in the games and entertainment that was also part of the festivities.
To the delight of the crowd, three luchadores took the stage to recruit contestants for a mystery contest.
The music came up and Oaxaca’s kids began going, “Gangnam Style” — albeit, some more enthusiastically than others — and all got prizes.
Psy may have sung and danced his last “Gangnam Style” on New Year’s Rockin’ Eve, however, it remains alive and well in Oaxaca!
According to this morning’s Noticias, 6,500 toys (donated by citizens, city government entities, foundations, and businesses) were given to each child present and all received a piece of rosca de Reyes.
As they say, a good time was had by all!
Posted in Celebrations, Culture, Holidays, Music, Parks & Plazas, Travel & Tourism | Tagged Día de Reyes, El Día De Los Reyes Magos, entertainment, festivals, Gangnam style, luchadores, Mexico, Oaxaca, Plaza de la Danza, popular travel destinations, Rosca de Reyes, Three Kings Day, video | 3 Comments »
Today, Mexico is celebrating Día de Reyes (aka, Three Kings Day and Epiphany). It is this morning, not Christmas, that children wake up to find gifts brought during the night not by Santa Claus, but by the Magi.
Melchor, Gaspar, and Baltazar have had plenty of time and places to shop. Several days before December 25, in the aisles of my local supermarket, toys had already replaced Christmas decorations. Llano Park was turned into Oaxaca’s version of a pop-up Toys R Us. Puestos (stalls) filled the park, selling everything from dolls to sports equipment, balloons to books, and even something for the family dog. There were (dicey looking) carnival rides and food stalls offering the usual bounty of street food and the traditional Rosca de Reyes.
And, that’s not all! Early last night, there was a giant festival in the Plaza de la Danza, to entertain and distribute a kilometer of donated toys to disadvantaged children. Stay tuned…
Posted in Celebrations, Culture, Food, Holidays, Parks & Plazas, Religion, Travel & Tourism | Tagged carnival rides, Día de Reyes, Epiphany, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, Rosca de Reyes, Three Kings Day | 1 Comment »
No Danza de la Pluma, no convite, no patronal festival. The Templo de la Preciosa Sangre de Cristo in Teotitlán del Valle on an ordinary day…
El Picacho up close and personal…
And, the hills where my young Zapotec friend, Sam, “grew up… looking after [his] crazy goats!” He is currently finishing a PhD in Sustainable Manufacturing at the University of Liverpool. I see a connection.
Even unplugged, the hills were alive with the sound of music — a banda could be heard in the distance — a Teotitlán del Valle soundtrack.
Posted in Churches, Environment, Geography, Nature & Science, Science & Nature, Travel & Tourism | Tagged El Picacho, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, Templo de la Preciosa Sangre de Cristo, Teotitlán del Valle | 4 Comments »
To the wonderful readers of my blog and to the beautiful people of Oaxaca, I wish you good health, safety, peace, and a 2013 that is filled with joy.
Bless you wherever you are
Windswept child on a shooting star
Restless Spirits depart
Still we’re deep in each other’s hearts
~ Bless You by John Lennon ~
Posted in Celebrations, Culture, Holidays, People, Travel & Tourism | Tagged Bless You by John Lennon, Mexico, New Year's Eve, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, portraits | 19 Comments »
The rabanos, danzantes, and I wish a happy holidays to all…
Photos from Noche de Rabanos. And, my rapidly becoming a Christmas Eve blog tradition…
Pancho Claus
‘Twas the night before Christmas and all through la casa
Not a creature was stirring, Caramba! ¿Que pasa?
Los ninos were all tucked away in their camas,
Some in vestidos and some in pajamas.
While Mama worked late in her little cocina,
El viejo was down at the corner cantina.
The stockings were hanging con mucho cuidado,
In hopes that St. Nicholas would feel obligado
To bring all the children, both buenos y malos,
A Nice batch of dulces and other regalos.
Outside in the yard, there arouse such a grito,
That I jumped to my feet, like a frightened cabrito.
I went to the window and looked out afuera,
And who in the world, do you think que era?
Saint Nick in a sleigh and a big red sombrero
Came dashing along like a crazy bombero!
And pulling his sleigh instead of venados,
Were eight little burros approaching volados.
I watched as they came, and this little hombre
Was shouting and whistling and calling by nombre.
¡Ay, Pancho! ¡Ay, Pepe! ¡Ay, Cuca! ¡Ay, Beto!
¡Ay, Chato! ¡¡Ay, Chopo! ¡Maruca and ¡Nieto!
Then standing erect with his hand on his pecho
He flew to the top of our very own techo.
With his round little belly like a bowl of jalea,
He struggled to squeeze down our old chimenea.
Then huffing and puffing, at last in our sala,
With soot smeared all over his red suit de gala.
He filled the stockings with lovely regalos,
For none of the children had been very malos.
Then chuckling aloud and seeming contento,
He turned like a flash and was gone like the viento.
And I heard him exclaim and this is VERDAD,
Merry Christmas to all, And to All ¡Feliz Navidad!
Ernie Villarreal’s version of the song, Pancho Claus, by Chicano music legend, Eduardo “Lalo” Guerrero.
Posted in Celebrations, Culture, Holidays, Music, Parks & Plazas, Religion, Travel & Tourism | Tagged 'Twas the Night Before Christmas, “Lalo” Guerrero, Christmas, Eduardo Guerrero, Mexico, Navidad, Night of the Radishes, Noche de Rabanos, Oaxaca, Pancho Claus, poem | 3 Comments »
Mexican Peso Converter
View From Casita Colibrí 