… from my rooftop garden in the city.
Posted in Animals, Casita Colibrí, Flora, Gardens | Tagged birds, cactus, flowers, gardens, hibiscus, lizards, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos | 4 Comments »
Along with much-needed rain and sparkling green cantera, tropical storm Beatriz also brought the one-day-a-year appearance of chicatanas (aka, tzicatana, tzicatl).
What, you might ask are chicatanas? They are giant flying ants that emerge with the first rains of the season — and by giant, I mean about 4 cm from the head to the tip of the wings for the females. (As in much of the insect world, males are smaller.) Known by the Nahuatl long before the arrival of the Spanish, they were mentioned in the 16th-century Florentine Codex which talked about the tzicatana living below ground and cultivating fungus to eat.
By this morning, the rain had stopped and when I returned from an early errand, I found chicatanas — queens (wings) and soldiers (wingless with vicious front pincers) — crawling around on my terrace and balcony. There were probably many more earlier, but I had been in a hurry and hadn’t noticed. By 10:30 AM they were gone.
Oh, and have I mentioned that they are a delicacy and a great source of protein? I’ve had chicatana salsa and chicatana mole several times. Below is Mole de Chicatanas I sampled during the Mole Festival in 2014. It’s from the Sierra Sur region of Oaxaca and made with chicatanas, pork ribs or loin, chile costeño, peanuts, and much more. It was yummy (and I was a picky eater as a child!), so I had it again at last year’s festival.
If you won’t take my word, check out this Bizarre Foods episode set in Oaxaca. (Chicatanas start at 1 min. 40 sec.) By the way, these are the dreaded leaf-cutter ants. However, it is the much smaller workers who can strip a tree overnight and are the bane of gardeners here. At least their queens and soldiers are good for something!
Post script: On a somber note, tropical storm Beatriz also brought flooding, mudslides, more downed trees, collapsed roads, and a current death toll of three.
Posted in Animals, Casita Colibrí, Culture, Food, Travel & Tourism, Weather | Tagged culinary traditions, Florentine Codex, food, insects, Mexico chicatanas, mole de chicatanas, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, rainy season, tzicatana | 4 Comments »
Rain has been falling in the city for over 24 hours, as Tropical Storm Beatriz slowly moves up Oaxaca’s coast and up and over Sierra Madre del Sur mountains. According to the National Hurricane Center, “over a foot of rain is possible in Mexico’s Oaxaca state through Friday with isolated amounts up to 20 inches possible.”
At various times in her past, because of the native green stone used to construct her buildings and pave her sidewalks, Oaxaca has been known as la Verde Antequera — the Emerald City.
Walking through the streets on a rainy day, it’s easy to see where she got her nickname.
While Beatriz may be causing headaches on the coast, the campesinos (and all who depend on them) in the Valle de Oaxaca, are rejoicing.
Posted in History, Science & Nature, Travel & Tourism, Weather | Tagged cantera, Emerald City, green stone, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, rain, rainy season, tropical storm, Tropical Storm Beatriz, Verde Antequera | 2 Comments »
Sorry folks, the bus doesn’t stop here. Why? You ask. Doesn’t red mean “stop”? Not here. Not now. There is DANGER; this edifice is in a bad state!
And, make sure to produce, disseminate, and teach about the dangers of buildings in hazardous states of disrepair. As Mother Nature has reminded us twice within the past week, this is earthquake country.
Posted in Buildings, Creativity, Signs, Transportation, Travel & Tourism | Tagged Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, poster art, posters, street art, street signs | Leave a Comment »
Posted in Celebrations, Education, Travel & Tourism | Tagged caps and gowns, graduation, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, students, Templo de Santo Domingo de Guzmán | Leave a Comment »
A word to the wise, be careful what you wish for…
After almost two weeks of 90º+(F) temperatures, late this afternoon lightening flashed, thunder rumbled, gusty winds replaced still humid air, and on Tlaloc’s command, torrential rain and hail pounded Oaxaca city. Water began coming in closed doors and windows, plants and chairs overturned on the terrace, an empty concrete bag flew up and over a ten foot fence and across the forty-five feet of my terrace landing at my doorstep, and power went out for almost two hours.
This evening, at Casita Colibrí, plants have been righted, chairs have been retrieved and stacked, and flooded floors have been mopped. However, in other parts of the city, there are reports of trees and power lines down, massive flooding, and a roof collapsed at Central de Abastos. Initial news reports (en español):
Posted in Casita Colibrí, Gardens, Science & Nature, Weather | Tagged garden, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, rain storms, storm damage, weather | 7 Comments »
This morning there were three… And, when I came out to greet my night blooming cereus, they looked wistful.
Remembering last night’s splendor? Or, reflecting on how fleeting their glory? Me? I’m appreciating their presence in my present.
Posted in Casita Colibrí, Flora, Gardens | Tagged flower of the day, flowers, garden, Mexico, Night Blooming Cereus, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, plants | 4 Comments »
Tomorrow, May 18, museums worldwide will be celebrating International Museum Day with special events around this year’s theme, “Museums and contested histories: Saying the unspeakable in museums.” According to the IMD website, The objective of International Museum Day is to raise awareness of the fact that, “Museums are an important means of cultural exchange, enrichment of cultures and development of mutual understanding, cooperation and peace among peoples.”
While Oaxaca has many wonderful museums, textile lover that I am, I would like to honor the day by looking back at several exhibitions I had the pleasure of viewing at the Museo Textil de Oaxaca — and a current one, too!

“Tormentos y suenos” (Storms and dreams) by Carolyn Kallenborn – August 3, 2012
Exhibitions ranged from works by individual textile artists to themed shows displaying textiles from the museum’s permanent collection and those on loan.

“Transcomunalidad. interventions and collaborations with stilt communities and craftsmen” exhibition by Laura Anderson Barbata – March 1, 2013
Item labels and detailed descriptive booklets have been extremely helpful and, in the case of collections by individual collectors, their field notes were fascinating.

“Irmgard Weitlaner Johnson: a life dedicated to textiles” – Costal (bag) was acquired by Irmgard in 1949, is said to be one of the most well preserved examples from the Valle del Mezquital, Hidalgo and, given the design, is thought to have been a wedding gift. – Nov. 21, 2014
The museum not only collects, preserves, and exhibits, it also holds workshops, lectures, expo-ventas (exposition and sales), and has provided a platform for issues of importance to textile artists, especially from the indigenous communities of the state of Oaxaca.

El Delirio del color Oaxaca en los años 1960″ – Huipil mazatecas from the Tuxtepec district – Apr. 19, 2015
Exhibition openings often have included receptions, with an occasional performance art presentation thrown in.
Museums can be a place to help shape community identity and bring different community groups together, a catalyst for regeneration through the creation of new venues and civic spaces, and a resource for developing the skills and confidence of members of those communities. — Museums Association

“Tekstil” current exhibition by textile artist Trine Ellitsgaard – Piece titled “Serpiente y abanicos” (Serpent and fans) – May 6, 2017
In observance of this year’s International Museum Day, the Museo Textil de Oaxaca invites textile artists and designers, academics, students, and the general public to participate in a conversation exploring the questions, “What is plagiarism? What is a copy? What is collaborating? Is ‘to collaborate’ synonymous with ‘to employ’? What has been the role of the copy in the development of craft goods?” May 18, 10:00 AM to 2:00 PM in the Claustro of the Centro Cultural San Pablo — next door to the Textile Museum.
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Exhibitions, Travel & Tourism | Tagged Carolyn Kallenborn, exhibits, International Museum Day, Irmgard Weitlaner Johnson, Mexico, Museo Textil de Oaxaca, museums, Oaxaca, Ornilla Ridone, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, Textile Museum of Oaxaca, textiles, Trine Ellitsgaard | 4 Comments »
I have to chuckle every morning when I turn on the fountain — within seconds the birds begin arriving. Apparently, there is a pecking order for bathing. The chain link fence provides an open-air waiting room — a perfect perch for keeping an eye on the bathers below.
Some, like this little guy, are more patient than others.
Posted in Animals, Casita Colibrí, Gardens | Tagged birds, chain link fence, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos | 2 Comments »
Thinking of all the sign painters I used to know back in the day, up in el norte.
At a time ruled by the industry and advanced technologies of all kinds, it’s easy to forget that once many things were done by hand. One of these things would be sign painting…. However, like many crafts and trades, hand-made sign painting was taken over by computers and printers, which promised cheaper and quicker solutions to its curious customers hungry for the wonders of the new era. As a result, these creatives lost their jobs, like many of their fellow draughtsmen and handymen. — The Nostalgia of the Sign Painting
But, here in Oaxaca…
We’ve got the ladder, the brush, and the artist.
The hand-painted artistry continues and leads to…
The creation of a beautiful and unique sign on Av. José María Morelos in Col. Centro.
¡Vive los artesanos!
Update: The sign painter (rotulista), Arturo, can be reached at: 951-201-3527
Posted in Creativity, Culture, Signs, Travel & Tourism | Tagged Calle Matamoros, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, shops, sign painters, signs, store displays | 3 Comments »
Nothing like stopping in Mercado Benito Juárez at Casilda Aguas Regionales midway through a morning filled with errands. The posted list of fruit drinks is mind boggling: Horchata, horchata con tuna, guanabana, melón, limón, sandía, jamaica, limón on chía, tamarindo, piña guayaba, kiwi, coco, crema de coco, durazno, ciruela, lichie, mandarina, mango, and maracuya.
Translated: Rice-based drink, rice-based drink with prickly pear cactus fruit, soursop, cantaloupe, lime, watermelon, hibiscus, lime with chia, tamarind, pineapple, guava, kiwi, coconut, coconut cream, peach, plum, lychee, mandarin orange, mango, and passion fruit.
What to choose? While I love horchata con tuna, I chose the unlisted limón con hoja santa (2nd from left in top photo) reeled off by the waitress. It was a lime with “sacred leaf” kind of day. Ahhh… the pause that refreshes!
Posted in Food, Markets, Travel & Tourism | Tagged aguas, Beverages, Casilda Aguas Regionales, fruit drinks, markets, Mercado Benito Juárez, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations | 3 Comments »
“What’s your name,” Coraline asked the cat. “Look, I’m Coraline. Okay?”
“Cats don’t have names,” it said.
“No?” said Coraline.
“No,” said the cat. “Now you people have names. That’s because you don’t know who you are. We know who we are, so we don’t need names.” — Neil Gaiman, Coraline
Aly rolled her eyes. Why did everyone say that to her? “People always forget the rest of the saying,” she complained. “‘And satisfaction brought it back.” — Tamora Pierce, Trickster’s Choice
Posted in Creativity, Culture, Travel & Tourism | Tagged graffiti, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, stencil art, street art, urban art, wall art | 7 Comments »
Yesterday, I did it again! After a year’s hiatus, on Día de la Santa Cruz I returned for the ritual pilgrimage to the top of El Picacho, the sacred mountain that watches over Teotitlán del Valle. To avoid hiking in the worst of May’s high temperatures, our ascent began at 5:30 in the morning. Yes, it was dark, with not even moonlight to guide our way. Thank goodness for the flashlight app on my smart phone. However, by 6:30 AM dawn was breaking and our artificial lights were extinguished. Our hardy band arrived at the summit about 7:30 AM to the ritual round of handshaking that accompanies greetings and farewells in the village.

As the mass began, the cicadas (cigarras or chicharras, en español) began their song — one even perched on the fabric swag festooning the crosses.

Mass over, Procopio Contreras, the young priest (first from Teotitlán) took off his vestments and posed for photos.

Along with a cup of agua de jamaica, we took our tamales into the shade, where bromeliads clung to tree branches.
After a lazy comida filled with conversation between new friends and with our strength renewed, we (3 Teotitecos, 1 Belgian, and me) descended the mountain.
While the day may be designated Día de la Santa Cruz and a mass said on top of Picacho, this day has pre-Hispanic roots in ceremonies related to the sowing season. In the early days of May (by our calendar), prayers and rituals were dedicated to Cosijo, the Zapotec god of lightening, thunder, and rain — later to Tláloc, the Aztec god of rain — thus fertility and water for the growing of crops. Hmmm… On May 2, lightening flashed and thunder roared, but Mother Nature only delivered a few drops in the village. However, on May 3, once the daylong festivities atop the mountain concluded, three hours of a good hard rain fell in Teotitlán del Valle. The gods must have heard the prayers.
h/t Zeferino Mendoza
Posted in Celebrations, Culture, Holidays, People, Religion, Travel & Tourism | Tagged Cerro Picacho, Day of the Holy Cross, Día de la Santa Cruz, El Picacho, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, Procopio Contreras, Teotitlán del Valle | 9 Comments »
Cooking with Juana… Mangos ripening just out of reach.
Sunlight filtering through the leaves of the granada (pomegranate) tree.
A pomelo (grapefruit) waiting to drop.
There is something to be said for outdoor kitchens.
Posted in Agriculture, Flora, Food, Gardens, Travel & Tourism | Tagged fruit trees, gardens, granadas, grapefruit, mango, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, pomegranate, Teotitlán del Valle, trees | 4 Comments »

































Mexican Peso Converter
Riding to the rescue?
May 29, 2017 by spixl
We live in perilous times…
The signs are everywhere…
This guy can’t be the only one riding to the rescue.
We all must do our part.
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Posted in Creativity, Culture, Travel & Tourism | Tagged graffiti, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, political commentary, popular travel destinations, stencils, street art, wall art | 2 Comments »