In Oaxaca city…
In Tlacolula de Matamoros…
They are seen and they are watching.
Archive for the ‘Travel & Tourism’ Category
Women of the street
Posted in Creativity, Culture, Travel & Tourism, tagged graffiti, Mexico, murals, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, street art, Tlacolula de Matamoros, urban art, women's faces on January 21, 2016| 8 Comments »
Ch-ch-ch-ch-changes in Teoti
Posted in Creativity, Culture, Museums, Travel & Tourism, tagged community museum, cultural center, Danza de la Pluma, danzantes, El Picacho, Mexico, museums, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, Teotitlán del Valle on January 18, 2016| 4 Comments »
As with all of life, there are changes going on in Teotitlán del Valle. A large new Cultural Center is nearing completion. It’s courtesy of the federal government and, according to the sign at the construction site, not a peso is coming from the state or village. From what I’ve been told, it will house the museum, a library, and a performance space.
And, with their final Danza de la Pluma performance on Día de Guadalupe (Dec. 12), the three-year commitment of the last Danzantes de Promesa group was at close. The new group has already begun the demanding work of learning the steps of the 40+ dances that make up the Danza de la Pluma.
Under the watchful eye of El Picacho, Moctezuma, Malinche, Doña Marina, Teotitles, Capitánes, Reyes, and Vasallos practice from 7:00 AM to 1:00 PM, Saturday through Monday to be ready for their debut the first Wednesday in July 2016 during the festival of the Preciosa Sangre de Cristo. A major and meaningful commitment, it is.
Strange fascination, fascinating me
Changes are taking the pace
I’m going through
Ch-ch-ch-ch-Changes
Changes by David Bowie (descansa en paz)
Drivers’ ed Oaxaca style
Posted in Exhibitions, Signs, Transportation, Travel & Tourism, tagged drivers' education, driving regulations, exhibitions, Mexico, Oaxaca, Oaxaca motor vehicle code, photographs, photos, reglamento de vialidad del municipio de oaxaca, road safety posters, rules of the road on January 16, 2016| 2 Comments »
If you drive in Oaxaca, you might want to take a stroll down the Alcalá today. In front of MACO, there is an exhibition of rules of the road for the municipality of Oaxaca.
Who knew Oaxaca has an actual motor vehicle code???
If you have ever walked, biked, driven, or ridden, this comes as a pleasant surprise — *surprise* being the operative word!
However, I’m not sure how many drivers stroll the Alcalá… Something tells me that those who need these lessons the most, probably don’t spend their Saturdays promenading along the capital city’s Andador Turístico.
Just so you know… Licensing drivers is up to each state in Mexico and, according to Alvin Starkman, Oaxaca “has done away with virtually all licensing requirements relating to safety: no written test, no road test, no eye test.” Consider yourself forewarned. 😉
Brooms in waiting
Posted in Culture, Markets, Travel & Tourism, tagged Mexico, Oaxaca, otate, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations on January 14, 2016| 6 Comments »
Back in Oaxaca and it’s scenes like this that make me smile…
At the Tinoco y Palacios entrance to the Mercado Sanchez Pascuas. Otate waiting to be made into escobas (brooms)?
Hoops with a view
Posted in Culture, Parks & Plazas, Sports & Recreation, Travel & Tourism, tagged basketball, basketball courts, cancha de baloncesto, El Picacho, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, Templo de la Preciosa Sangre de Cristo, Teotitlán del Valle on January 11, 2016| Leave a Comment »
Basketball is big right now in the San Francisco Bay Area; as I write the Golden State Warriors are 35 and 2 and a new, albeit controversial, 18,000 seat arena is in the works. But, I’ll bet it won’t have views like these…
Unlike in wider mestizo Mexico, where soccer reigns supreme, in the Sierra basketball is king. The sport was introduced in the 1930s by president Lazaro Cardenas as a way to bring Oaxaca’s disparate and historically rebellious indigenous groups into the national fold.
Cardenas’ dream of a unified national identity didn’t take root in the Sierra, which has historically been isolated and impoverished, but basketball soon became tied to the region’s most significan traditions, and to indigenous identity itself. — Jorge Santiago
One of several canchas de baloncesto (basketball courts) in Teotitlán del Valle, Oaxaca.
Masked and anonymous
Posted in Creativity, Culture, People, Travel & Tourism, tagged Apolinar Sosa, devil mask, mascaras, masks, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, San Martín Tilcajete, wood carving on January 9, 2016| 3 Comments »
A friend (who shall remain anonymous) was persuaded to model the mask I gave one of my sons for Christmas.
It is the work of Apolinar Sosa, the son of distinguished carver Jesus Sosa Calvo and Juana Vicente Ortega Fuentes of San Martín Tilcajete.
This mask won a prize and had actually been worn during the unique Carnaval celebration in the village.
Don’t you love the tongue of dried chiles?
Gifts of nature & talent
Posted in Creativity, Culture, Holidays, Music, People, Travel & Tourism, tagged Carlos Reyes, Crystalline Thrilled, El Día De Los Reyes Magos, Greg Johnson and Glass Brick Boulevard, music, photos, rugs, Sergio Ruiz Gonzalez, tapetes, Teotitlán del Valle, weavers on January 6, 2016| 7 Comments »
I’m still in el norte, now on the west coast in the San Francisco Bay Area and it’s grey, raining, and cold. The rain is a much needed gift in drought stricken California, but the ground has rapidly become supersaturated and this morning’s news reported a giant ficus falling across Mission St. in San Francisco, taking down streetcar lines. I immediately flashed on Oaxaca’s ubiquitous, often topiaried, ficus trees.
However, I headed out into the storm and tuned into a Spanish language music station (I must be missing the soundtrack of my Mexican life) and was reminded today, January 6, is El Día De Los Reyes Magos (aka, Epiphany), when the Three Kings bring gifts to the children of Mexico.
My (grown) children received their gifts on December 25, not January 6, and last year each received a tapete woven by the talented Sergio Ruiz Gonzalez — brother of Antonio, who wove my new rug. In the photo, that’s Sergio, his beautiful wife Virginia, and his lovely mother Emilia (of Lila Downs’ El Palomo del Comalito video fame).
However, I did receive an (unexpected) gift today — my former piano teacher (and forever friend) Greg Johnson stopped by to catch up. And, besides his always upbeat and delightful company, he brought me his new CD, Crystalline Thrilled. The guys of Glass Brick Boulevard are fabulous (as always) and guest artist Carlos Reyes shreds it on violin. Check out Carlos playing with Glass Brick Boulevard at the CD release party. What a great regalo I received!
Murals of Callejón Hidalgo
Posted in Creativity, Culture, Travel & Tourism, tagged Callejón Hidalgo, graffiti, Mexico, murals, Oaxaca, photos, street art, urban art on January 4, 2016| 12 Comments »
In the category of “your just never know,” the two-block long Callejón Hidalgo is a treasure-trove of murals.
And, there are more! Located between Tinoco y Palacios and Porfirio Diaz above Calle Jesus Carranza, it’s well worth the trek up the hill.
Scenes from 2015
Posted in Animals, Casita Colibrí, Celebrations, Culture, Exhibitions, Flora, Travel & Tourism, tagged African Tulip trees, Casa Colonial, cattle, Cochineal, flowers, globos, hot air balloons, MACO, Museo de Arte Contemporáneo de Oaxaca, Oaxaca, Police riot shields, Primavera, San Juan Guelavia, San Mateo Macuilxóchitl, water lilies on January 1, 2016| 16 Comments »
Muchisimas gracias to all my wonderful blog readers — for reading, for commenting, for sharing, for the opportunity to meet some of you, and for inspiring me to continue. A look back at Oaxaca scenes that never made it into the blog…
January – Although spring was a couple of months away, the Primavera (Tabebuia chrysotricha) was already in bloom.
February – Cattle car on the carretera outside Tlacolula de Matamoros on Sunday market day.
March – A quiet morning on Monte Albán.
April – Decorating with agave flowers on Easter Sunday in Mitla.
May – Police temporarily remove and replace Sección 22 on the zócalo.
June – Though we arrived hours early for a festival in San Juan Guelavía, the sacred and profane were already present.
July – A favorite view from my terrace, the African tulip trees in full bloom.
August – At Casa Colonial the water lilies and hyacinths were stunning.
September – Cochineal (the “perfect red” dye) exhibition at Museo de Arte Contemporaneo de Oaxaca (MACO).
October – Returning from Teotitlán de Valle one morning, a globo was landing near San Mateo Macuilxochitl.
November – On the way to Mercado Hidalgo in Colonia Reforma to buy Thanksgiving groceries, Our Lady of the Wires (?).
December – Rooftop still life in El Centro.
A long, strange, and fascinating trip it continues to be. As another song says, Próspero año y felicidad!
Santa deflated
Posted in Celebrations, Culture, Holidays, Travel & Tourism, tagged Christmas, Christmas traditions, inflatable Santa Claus, Mexico, Navidad, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations on December 27, 2015| 1 Comment »
This is how I feel today…
Actually, I took this a few weeks ago on Matamoros (at Tinoco y Palacios) with the intention of writing a blog post lamenting Christmas traditions (Christmas trees, Santa Claus, consumerism, etc.) migrating down from el norte. But, I think I’ll just let the image speak for itself.
Rabanos revisited
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Travel & Tourism, tagged dancers, dried corn husks, flor inmortal, Mexico, Night of the Radishes, Noche de Rabanos, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, Totomoxtle on December 21, 2015| 3 Comments »
The “only in Oaxaca” Noche de Rábanos is coming! If you are in Oaxaca, the zócalo is the place to be on December 23 to watch radishes being carved into familiar and fantastical creations. Among the former, dancers from Oaxaca’s eight regions are a favorite.
Danza de la Pluma dancer in Rábanos Tradicional category 2012
Baile del Guajolote dancer in Rábanos Libre category 2013
Despite of the name, it isn’t just about carved radishes. The artists of Oaxaca work their creative magic in several other categories, including dried flowers…
Chinas Oaxaqueñas in Flor Inmortal category 2012
… and corn husks.
Chinas Oaxaqueñas entry in Totomoxtle Natural category 2012
Jarabe Mixteco dancer in Totomoxtle Decorado category 2012
Danza de los Huenches Viejos de Yalalag in Totomoxtle Decorado category 2012
I wish I could be in two places at one time, so I could experience this year’s Night of the Radishes. If you are lucky enough to be there, enjoy and take lots of photos!
Bringing Oaxaca to a NY classroom
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Education, Travel & Tourism, tagged Christmas ornaments, classroom presentation, costume, dancers, Guelaguetza, Mexico map, Nacimiento de navidad, Nativity scene, Oaxaca, photos, piñata, rugs, tapetes, Teotitlán del Valle, traje on December 18, 2015| 8 Comments »
Yesterday was SO much fun!!! I’m spending Christmas with family in New York and was invited by my daughter-in-law to speak to her special education class. Wearing one of my huipiles from the Papaloapan region of Oaxaca, I filled them in on “life in Oaxaca.”
We looked at a map of Mexico and I pointed to where the state of Oaxaca is located.
We spoke a little Spanish and discovered that some familiar foods, like chocolate, gum (chicle), corn (maíz), and turkey (pavo), originated in Mexico. They learned that there are many artisan crafts made in Oaxaca and I showed them a tapete (rug) that was woven in Teotitlán del Valle.
We talked about festivals with processions, bands, marmotas, monos, and dancing. And, to illustrate the diversity of the indigenous peoples of Oaxaca, I created a short video from La Guelaguetza 2014.
We discussed the differences between Christmas traditions in Mexico and the USA — that Christmas trees aren’t as common, but most everyone sets up a nacimiento (nativity scene) in their home.
Of course, they loved the idea of breaking open a piñata filled with candy and trinkets.
I concluded with a video I’d made and previously posted of the castillo in Teotitlán del Valle during the festival honoring the Virgen del Rosario. Needless to say, they were awestruck by the fireworks. And then I gave them each a woven palm leaf piñata ornament. Alas, no candy inside!
I was very touched that my daughter-in-law returned home later in the afternoon bringing individualized thank-you notes from the students. However, I would like to give a big “muchisimas gracias” to her for inviting me and to her students for being such an attentive, engaged, and delightful audience!
Portraits of generosity
Posted in Celebrations, Culture, Holidays, Travel & Tourism, tagged Danza de la Pluma, danzantes, Día de la Virgen de Guadalupe, decorative gourds, Mexico, Oaxaca, offerings, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, Teotitlán del Valle, Virgen de Guadalupe, Virgin of Guadalupe on December 14, 2015| 8 Comments »
Saturday, like all Mexico, Teotitlán del Valle honored the Virgen de Guadalupe. As they do every December 12, the Danzantes de Promesa danced the Danza de la Pluma. However, this was the last performance by this group; their three-year commitment to their god, church, and community was at an end. And, as is their tradition, the dancers and their families offered the village food, drink, and a party to celebrate.
Dancers and their wives, parents, grandparents, godparents, sisters, brothers, and children came bearing fruits, candy, mezcal, and beer.
The children learn at an early age that it isn’t all about them — they are part of a community and have roles to play and contributions to make.
All ages and genders have a role. The men, more often than not, get the glory but look at these women! They radiate the strength and pride of 2000 years of Teotitlán del Valle, Zapotec history and culture.
As darkness fell and after dancing for several hours, 9-year olds, Juana Lizbeth Contreras (Malinche) and Ailani Ruiz Ruiz (Doña Marina) made the rounds of the thousands gathered on the church plaza to distribute their gifts to their community. It was then that emotion overwhelmed me.
A profound muchisimas gracias to the people of Teotitlán del Valle for being so welcoming over the years to a couple of gringo bloggers. Chris and I are so grateful for your generosity of spirit. Definitely, more to come…
Felicidades Guadalupe
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Holidays, Religion, Travel & Tourism, tagged Danza de la Pluma, historical photographs, Iglesia de Guadalupe, Mexico, Oaxaca, photos, popular travel destinations, Virgen de Guadalupe, Virgen de Juquila, Virgen de La Soledad, Virgin of Guadalupe, Virgin of Juquila, Virgin of Solitude on December 12, 2015| 2 Comments »
The bells, bands, and booms have been soundtrack of the city for a week — the virgins are being celebrated! First in line, on December 8, for chiming church bells, processions, and fireworks was the Virgen de Juquila and third will be Oaxaca’s patron saint, the Virgen de la Soledad on Dec. 18. However, in between the eighth and eighteenth, all of Mexico honors the Virgin of Guadalupe. Today, December 12 is her day but, like the others, the festivities began days in advance.
Scenes from last night in front of the Iglesia de Guadalupe in Oaxaca city…
Now on to Teotitlán de Valle for this afternoon’s Día de Guadalupe performance of the Danza de la Pluma. We have been told the festivities will last all night, as the community will also be saying “adios” to this group of dancers — their three-year commitment is at an end. It will be a miracle of the Virgin if we can party hardy until even midnight, but we will give it the old college try!
Triumph for Tlahuitoltepec
Posted in Creativity, Culture, Textiles, Travel & Tourism, tagged Antik Batik, Coca-Cola ad, Isabel Marant, Mexico, Mexico News Daily poll, Mixe, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, Santa María Tlahuitoltepec, Totontepec Villa de Morelos, traditional blouses, traje on December 9, 2015| 8 Comments »
As I’ve previously written, two separate (and battling) French designers were exposed as plagiarizing the traditional embroidery designs of Santa María Tlahuitoltepec, a village in the mountainous Mixe region of Oaxaca.
However, at last there is a triumph for the embroiderers and the time-honored motifs handed down from their ancestors and inspired by the land — A Court Rules High-End French Label Doesn’t Own Rights to Indigenous Oaxacan Design.
The people of Santa María Tlahuitoltepec may not be financially wealthy, but they and their community are rich in culture and pride in their history and traditions. They are not angling for a monetary settlement — all they want is that their work and designs be recognized and respected.
While we are on the topic of disrespect of indigenous peoples, we have the recent disgraceful Coca-Cola México advertisement, showing Hipsters Bringing Soda To Indigenous Mexicans — another Mixe village, Totontepec Villa de Morelos. After an immediate social media campaign challenged the ad, Coca Cola pulled it. As this teleSUR article details, This New Coca Cola Ad Shows Mexico’s White Savior Problem. In addition, like the USA, obesity is growing problem here, thus a Reply to Coca-Cola comes in new video by the Alliance for Food Health featuring two Mixe students speaking about the health risks posed by these kinds of “soft drinks” that lack any nutritional value.
By the way, the English language Mexico News Daily is running a poll, asking if you “agree that the controversial Coca-Cola Christmas video was racist or offensive?” And, I’m appalled that as I write, the results are: 32% yes and 68% no!!!
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