Who were those masked men?
From the Guelaguetza desfile, July 19, 2014
Archive for the ‘Culture’ Category
Masked & anonymous
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Travel & Tourism, tagged Desfile de Delegaciones, Guelaguetza, mascaras, masks, Mexico, Oaxaca, Parade of Delegations, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations on July 31, 2014| Leave a Comment »
Up close at Guelaguetza in Etla
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Protests, Transportation, Travel & Tourism, tagged blockade, bloqueo, dancers, Danza de la Pluma, danzantes, Flor de piña, Guelaguetza, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, pineapple dancers, Seccion 22, Villa de Etla on July 29, 2014| 8 Comments »
Last Monday, L and I had a leisurely hike up the hill from my apartment to the Guelaguetza Auditorium, sat in stadium seats almost 20 rows up, looking down on the enormous circular concrete stage with the city and mountains providing a picturesque backdrop.
Yesterday, I hopped on a bus, heading for another Guelaguetza performance, this time in Villa de Etla. However, a bloqueo (blockade) by Sección 22 of the teachers’ union had the bus turning around, doubling back, and taking a circuitous route that eventually wound its way through the narrow streets of Santa Rosa. Once we got back on the main road, I transferred to a colectivo and arrived in Etla just as the dancing was about to begin — this time on a small temporary wood-plank stage, that seemed to shake with every dance step. The setting wasn’t quite as spectacular, but, there I was, within an arm’s reach of the dancers!
Danza de la Pluma
Flor de Piña
With the exception of the Danza de la Pluma, these dancers are from a folkloric group that performs each of the traditional regional dances. As you can see from their faces, they dance with as much joy and pride as the delegations from the villages at the big Guelaguetza.
Returning home was its own adventure. Last week, L and I only had to navigate sidewalks, pathways, and stairs along with the other 11,000 attendees. Yesterday, Chris (see his Guelaguetza in Etla – 2014 post) gave me a ride to a bus stop where, after about 10 minutes, I caught the bus that would deposit me a half block from Casita Colibrí. Alas, the best laid plans… Just before the intersection up to Cerro Fortín, masked maestros (teachers) surrounded the bus, our driver shrugged, opened the doors, and off we passengers got. It was hot, I was tired, but what else was there to do? I hoofed it to halfway between the Museo del Ferrocarril (Railroad Museum) and Morelos Park, when another bus materialized, I climbed aboard, giving my feet a much-needed rest, and let the driver navigate the clogged streets that took me back to home sweet home.
It was a fun and frustrating AND exhilarating and exhausting kind of day.
Lila last night
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Music, People, Travel & Tourism, tagged Guelaguetza, Lila Downs, Mexico, music, Oaxaca, photographs, photos on July 26, 2014| 1 Comment »
One of the qualities that amazes me about most Oaxaqueños is their patience with waiting in interminable lines. On the one hand, I think those north of the border could take some much-needed lessons in civil and well-mannered behavior. However, on the other hand, I think Oaxaqueños deserve much better than having to stand in endless lines, be it the bank, a government agency, or to get tickets to a concert by their favorite daughter, Lila Downs.
Last year, unable to figure out the hows and wheres of getting a ticket to her free concert during the ten days of the Guelaguetza festivities, I was on the verge of giving up getting tickets to see Lila Downs, when friends coming in from out-of-town(!), offered a couple to me. Of course, I accepted!
This year, after several false leads, on Tuesday morning L and I climbed back up to the Guelaguetza Auditorium to try to score some tickets to this year’s free concert. The box office was scheduled to open at 9 AM, we got up there at 8:30 AM and found ourselves at the end of a line that stretch halfway to the planetarium AND that continued to grow as the hours ticked by. Abuelos, niños, moms, dads, and teens lined the pathway, talking on cell phones, eating, talking, and laughing — without a raised voice or harsh word spoken.
At almost 10 AM, when the line hadn’t moved an inch, I walked down the hill to the box office to see what was happening. Nothing, as it turned out!
However, good-natured patience finally succumbed to whistles and shouts by those who were in the line of sight of the ticket booth — after all, according to the newspaper they had begun lining up at 4:30 AM!!!
I wound my way back up the hill to report my findings to L. Alas, after another 45 minutes of no movement, impatient gringas that we are, we gave up. However, to borrow from the musical Sound of Music, “somewhere in [our] youth or childhood, [we] must have done something good,” because 48 hours later, my neighbor presented us with tickets! And so last night, we climbed back up Cerro Fortín to see Lila Downs. We were very happy campers.
She put on another spectacular show — mixing new tunes with old, incorporating several of the Guelaguetza delegations into the production, and generally bringing cheers and sing-a-long voices from the hometown crowd. By the end, everyone was on their feet.
And so la Guelaguetza began
Posted in Celebrations, Culture, Travel & Tourism, tagged Chinas Oaxaqueñas, dance, Diosa Centéotl, Guelaguetza, Jacqueline Reyes Rosario Sarabia, Lunes del Cerro, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos on July 25, 2014| 2 Comments »
So much to see and do, so little time to process photos and post — should all our problems be so enjoyable! However, before tonight’s Lila Downs concert, tomorrow’s Desfile de Delagaciones (parade of delegations), and Monday’s Guelaguetza in Etla (and that’s only a few of the activities on the dance card), a glimpse from the beginning of Monday evening’s Guelaguetza performance.
Diosa Centéotl, Jacqueline Reyes Rosario Sarabia began the presentation of Lunes del Cerro (aka, la Guelaguetza).
As tradition dictates, she was followed by the convite (procession) of Chinas Oaxaqueñas with their band, monos, and banners.
They filled the stage, dancing the Jarabe del Valle to the cheering crowd.
It was a balmy evening, the view was spectacular, fourteen more delegations danced their way into the night, and a dazzling display of fireworks exploded above the open-air auditorium to conclude the show.
And, they do it all again this coming Monday — hopefully, the kinks will be worked out for the live streaming, so no matter where you are, you can watch and enjoy the morning and/or evening performances.
Queens rule!
Posted in Celebrations, Culture, People, Travel & Tourism, tagged Desfile de Delegaciones, Diosa Centéotl, Expo Feria de Queso y Quesillo, Guelaguetza, Jacqueline Reyes Rosario Sarabia, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos on July 21, 2014| 3 Comments »
This post is really just an excuse to post photos of two young women who are presiding over this year’s Guelaguetza activities. The first is the Reina (queen) of the 4th Expo Feria del Queso y Quesillo. She is a writer, loves books, and her eyes lit up (even more!) when I told her I was a librarian. She and her mother were so gracious and radiated joy and warmth. Alas, I didn’t catch her name; if anyone knows, please post in comments.
Friday evening, the Diosa Centéotl (corn goddess) was chosen to reign over this year’s Guelaguetza. Jacqueline Reyes Rosario Sarabia, a native of Santo Domingo Tehuantepec, Oaxaca, was selected from 33 participants who represented the 8 regions of the state of Oaxaca in a 2-part competition. Each entrant was required to make a presentation, in both her native language and in Spanish, about the gastronomy, crafts, dances, legends, traditions, and customs of her village and on the clothing of her region. Even though we were way in the back, Jacqueline caught our attention with her impassioned speech. One of the first of her duties was to lead yesterday’s desfile (parade of the Guelaguetza delegations) through the streets of the city of Oaxaca.
I love Jacqueline’s reaction when her name was announced as Diosa Centéotl 2014.
Watch Guelaguetza live
Posted in Celebrations, Culture, Music, Travel & Tourism, tagged dance, Guelaguetza, Guelaguetza Auditorium, Live streaming, Mexico, music, Oaxaca, popular on July 21, 2014| 1 Comment »
Live streaming of the Guelaguetza performances at the Guelaguetza auditorium atop Cerro del Fortín, July 21 and 28 at 10 AM and 5 PM (Central Daylight Time).
http://new.livestream.com/radical-bits/guelaguetza-2014
Update: La Guelaguetza 2014 is over, however you can view all the performances on Vive Oaxaca’s YouTube channel.
Food glorious food!
Posted in Culture, Food, Travel & Tourism, tagged chicatanas, Expo Feria de Queso y Quesillo, Festival de los 7 Moles, food, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations on July 20, 2014| 8 Comments »
I’m eating my way through the Guelaguetza festivities. It all began on Friday with the kickoff banquet for the Festival de los Moles. Remember the chicatanas from last month? They were there. Check out the mole on the middle left. Giving the mole a little “crunch,” it was muy sabroso!
Mole verde con espinazo de cerdo from Restaurant Los Compadres
Mole de Chicatanas from Putla de Guerrero
One of 3 long tables, each olla (pot) filled with a different mole
My plate, round one
Then yesterday, we ventured out to Reyes Etla for the Expo Feria del Queso y Quesillo (cheese fair), followed by comida at Comedor Colon in Villa de Etla.
Queso decorated with epazote
Queso topped with chapulines
My tlayuda at Comedor Colon
Today, we were supposed to go into the mountains of the Sierra Norte to San Antonio Cuajimoloyas for the Feria Regional de Hongos Silvestres. Alas, bloqueos blocked our way and so L and I were “forced” to browse (and shop) our way through the countless artesan stalls at the top of the Alcalá and in Llano Park. Of course, this required major nourishment. At a time like this, nothing beats street food!
Tacos with roasted onions and chopped pork
All I can say is, yummmm! And, next weekend, we will again attempt to venture up into the mountains for the wild mushrooms festival.
Let the Guelaguetza festivities begin
Posted in Culture, Food, Music, Travel & Tourism, tagged artesania, calendar of events, Expo Feria de Queso y Quesillo, Feria Internacional del Mezcal, Feria Regional de Hongos Silvestres, Guelaguetza, Lila Downs, Mexico, Oaxaca, posters on July 18, 2014| 4 Comments »
I’m back in Oaxaca — and I’m not the only one! The city’s streets and sidewalks are more congested than usual as tourists, both national and international, have begun pouring in. Why? you ask. They have come for the annual Guelaguetza folkloric performances the next two Mondays on Cerro Fortin in Oaxaca city. And, a few might even venture out to join locals at the more intimate Guelaguetzas in many of the villages that surround the city.
There will be food and drink ferias and festivals…
There will be calendas (parades), expo-ventas (artisan sales), and exhibitions…
There will be concerts, including this one by Lila Downs…
And, SO much more! The above posters illustrate just a fraction of the activities surrounding the Lunes del Cerro (Mondays on the hill). For a more comprehensive, though not by any means complete, list of events, check out the calendar below.
Sheesh, it seems like they add more things to do and see every year. However, I’m looking forward to showing and sharing as much of it as possible with friends.
Click on each poster for a larger (more readable) image.
Plumed and hairless
Posted in Animals, Culture, Museums, People, Travel & Tourism, tagged dogs, Mexico, Mexico City, Museo Dolores Olmedo, peacocks, photographs, photos, Xoloitzcuintles on July 15, 2014| 6 Comments »
Four days of non-stop sights, sounds, and adventures in Mexico City with my BFF is coming to a close. So much to do and see, there’s been no time for blogging. However, all my bags are packed and I have a few minutes…
Today, L and I ventured out to the Museo Dolores Olmedo in Xochimilco, at the southern end of Mexico City. The museum houses her extraordinary collection of Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera’s work (25 of her pieces and 145 of his), 6000 pre-Hispanic figurines and sculptures, exquisite Chinese ivory, porcelain, cloisonné and lacquer, along with other works of art and artesania. The gardens of this former 16th century hacienda are beautifully landscaped and provide a tranquil escape from the big city. And, they are home to a muster of peacocks. I have no idea how many, but they seemed to be everywhere.
And that’s not all. A pack of Xoloitzcuintles (Mexican hairless dogs) also reside on the grounds, seeming to “pose” for visitors; they especially like the Xolo sculpture in their part of the garden. As anyone who has seen the dogs depicted in pre-Columbian figurines can see, their origins date long before the Spanish ever knew of the Americas.
Museo Dolores Olmedo isn’t easy to get to — it took several metro lines, a train, and a bus to get us there and back — but it was well worth it!!!
Now back to Oaxaca for desfiles (parades), ferias, artesania, and Guelaguetzas.
Back to Teotitlán del Valle
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, History, Holidays, Religion, Travel & Tourism, tagged Danza de la Pluma, Doña Marina, Feather dance, festivals, fiesta, Fiesta de la Preciosa Sangre de Cristo, Malinche, Mexico, Moctezuma, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, Subalternos, Teotitlán del Valle on July 10, 2014| 3 Comments »
We returned to Teotitlán del Valle on Tuesday and Wednesday the Danza de la Pluma — more of the multi-day fiesta honoring Preciosa Sangre de Nuestro Señor Jesucristo.
An airborne Moctezuma and the Danzantes
The Danza de la Pluma is a ritual re-enactment of the Spanish conquest. The story is told in 41 bailes (dances) and lasts from early afternoon into the night. It is an honor to be a participant — the Danzantes, Moctezuma, the Subalternos, Malinche, and Doña Marina are selected years in advance and make a promise to the church and community to perform their roles for 3 years.
Dance of Malinche and Doña Marina
All is not completely serious — the Subalternos provide a little levity along the way.
Subalterno trying on the Penacho of a Danzante
The subtext and “hidden” narratives of the danza are multiple and complex and after 5 years, I’m only in the infant stages of understanding. I will leave it to the two scholarly articles listed below to attempt interpretation.
References:
Cohen, Jeffrey. Danza de la Pluma: Symbols of submission and separation in a Mexican Fiesta. Anthropological Quarterly, Jul 93, Vol. 66 Issue 3, p. 149-158.
Harris, Max. The Return of Moctezuma. The Drama Review, Sp 97, Vol. 41 Issue 1, p. 106, 29 p.
Bienvenidos a julio
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Religion, Travel & Tourism, tagged brass band, canastas, convite, del Valle, El Picacho, Fiesta de la Preciosa Sangre de Cristo, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, procession, Subalternos, Templo de la Preciosa Sangre de Cristo, Teotitlán on July 8, 2014| 5 Comments »
July in the valley of Oaxaca has begun! There will be festivals of mole, mushrooms, cheeses, and tamales. And, there will be the costumes, calendas, and music of Guelaguetza in the city and in several of the surrounding villages. But first…
Under a dark and threatening sky, the people of Teotitlán del Valle began their week-long Fiesta titular a la Preciosa Sangre de Nuestro Señor Jesucristo (Festival to the Precious Blood of Our Lord Jesus Christ). Wearing traditional embroidered blouses and wool skirts woven in this Zapotec village known for its weaving, the unmarried young women and girls gathered in front of the church (Templo de la Preciosa Sangre de Cristo) for the convite (procession) that kicks off Teotitlán’s most important fiesta of the year.
The rain held off and the procession left the confines of the church courtyard.
Marmotas (giant cloth globes), music, and pyrotechnics led the way…
along with little boys holding canes of carrizo and poles topped with small marmotas, fluffy sheep, and airplanes (don’t ask me).
And then came the young women and girls, carrying canastas with images of the saints on their heads. I have to note here, these baskets are REALLY heavy. I know, because last year one of the gals asked if I’d like to try — I did for all of about five seconds. They carry them for almost an hour!!!
Most of the residents came out to watch at prime viewing locations. (Teenage boys were especially prominent, but they deserve another blog post.)
Under the watchful eye of El Picacho (the sacred mountain of Teotitlán), the procession wound its way up and down the cobblestone streets…
and eventually returned to the church courtyard, where it all began.
For more photos, including some of the pyrotechnic guys in action, check out Oaxaca-The Year After.
Who are the people in your neighborhood?
Posted in Creativity, Culture, Travel & Tourism, tagged Barrio Xochimilco, Colectivo Alucin Ates, graffiti, Lelo Art, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, street art, urban art, wall art on July 6, 2014| 6 Comments »
Here are some of the more colorful people in mine…
More from Friday’s walk up to Barrio Xochimilco. Couldn’t help thinking of the Sesame Street song, Who Are the People In Your Neighborhood?
Just passing through…
Posted in Churches, Creativity, Culture, Neighborhoods, Travel & Tourism, tagged Barrio Xochimilco, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, SCOM, stairs, street art, Templo de Santo Tomas Xochimilco, urban art, wall art on July 4, 2014| 6 Comments »
I felt like I was being watched, as I walked through Barrio Xochimilco this morning…
Stumbled upon, what could be, the stairway to heaven…
Just passing through…
Aren’t we all?
Transitioning from here to there
Posted in Creativity, Culture, Signs, Travel & Tourism, tagged California, Mexico, Mill Valley, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, sculptures, street art, street signs, urban art, wall art, Zio Ziegler on June 25, 2014| 9 Comments »
It’s been a great visit to Mill Valley, California, the town where I grew up and lived most of my life. But, I’m ready to return to Oaxaca. However, besides differences in latitude and attitude, there is much they have in common.
There are sculptures in public places (click on each to enlarge image)…
Shoreline Highway, Mill Valley
On the Alcalá in Oaxaca.
There are murals…
Tunnel leading to the Guelaguetza Auditorium, Oaxaca
Side of a building on Shoreline Hwy, Mill Valley by Zio Ziegler.
There are depictions of aquatic animals…
Side of building on Shoreline Hwy, Mill Valley by Zio Ziegler.
Tunnel leading to Guelaguetza Auditorium, Oaxaca.
AND, there are signs reminding drivers to wait and take turns. Remember my What’s easy??? post from last week? Look what just went up in Mill Valley. Discourteous drivers know no boundaries!
Street sign in Oaxaca.
Street sign in Mill Valley.
Rather than dwelling on the differences — which I did when I first began living this dual-country life — I now choose to appreciate the similarities. Of course it doesn’t hurt that both places are situated in beautiful settings, fresh fruits and vegetables abound, have relatively mild climates, and an appreciation for the arts.
And so… I bid a fond “adiós” to Mill Valley and “hola” to Oaxaca.
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View From Casita Colibrí 
Heart and soul
Posted in Creativity, Culture, Economics, Politics, Protests, Sports & Recreation, tagged Copa Mundial 2014, El Tri, fútbol, Francisco Goldman, graffiti, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, political commentary, soccer, street art, urban art, World Cup 2014 on June 23, 2014| 4 Comments »
What a game; three goals in 10 minutes in the second half!!! Another thrilling win by El Tri advances Mexico to the next stage in World Cup 2014. They struggled and needed a little help from their “friends” in el norte to even play in Brazil. However, against all odds, this team exhibits a gutsy and tenacious heart and soul that can’t help but have people rooting for them — much like the country of Mexico, itself.
Mural under fútbol stadium in Oaxaca – Dec. 2012
Francisco Goldman wrote an op-ed in yesterday’s New York Times. His article, “Fooling Mexican Fans,” relates the current politics of Mexico, the “bread and circuses” diversion of the World Cup, and the notion that El Tri might exemplify all that is inspiring and hopeful in the Mexican national character.
Goldman’s op-ed begins…
The day before the Mexican soccer team’s thrilling underdog tie with the World Cup favorite, Brazil, last week, the lead editorial of the news site SinEmbargo was titled, “Ready for your Clamato and Gatorade?” — common hangover remedies. “In about three weeks, when you wake from your World Cup dreams,” the editors wrote, “remember that when the soccer fest began, the country was on the verge of monumental decisions. If upon waking, you realize that the country’s energy reserves have been cheaply sold off or whatever else, don’t bother protesting because this is a chronicle foretold.”
To debate and pass laws that could open Pemex, the nationalized oil company, to foreign investment, the Mexican Congress scheduled legislative sessions from June 10 to 23, dates precisely coinciding with you know what. Final passage might be pushed back, but it originally looked like it was supposed to happen on Monday, when Mexico plays Croatia to decide which country advances to the elimination rounds.
As I wrote previously, Mexicans have been Expressing the outrage since last year, when Mexico’s newly elected president Enrique Peña Nieto (initials EPN), from the PRI party, first made the Pemex energy “reform” proposal.
Graffiti seen on a wall south of Oaxaca’s zócalo, May 23, 2014.
Goldman goes on to discuss this and other “reforms,” the role of the PRI, and the current overall political climate in Mexico. However, as dismal as it all sounds, he ends on a hopeful note…
There has been much talk lately about the way the style of soccer teams manifests national characters. I don’t know if that’s true. But when I look at the Mexican team which, after barely even qualifying for the World Cup, has been playing so well, I see a team without stars — a gritty, hard-working, pretty humble, resourceful, creative, disciplined, joyous, friendly-seeming group of players who seem to be learning to play the game as it is meant to be played.
These are values that we see enacted and re-enacted all over Mexico, and in Mexican communities elsewhere, every day. Someday Mexico will get another chance to vote the PRI away and to restart the long process of building the country from the ground up. It could do worse than take some inspiration from its national team.
Absolutely, those are the values I, too, see exhibited in Mexican communities both in Mexico and the US. There is hope for the future — and not just on the pitch! I encourage you to read Goldman’s op-ed in full. In the meantime, Mexico vs. Netherlands on Sunday at Estadio Castelao Forteleza. ¡¡¡ VAMOS EL TRI !!!
h/t K Hackbarth for the article
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