Sometimes color seems like a distraction, so an experiment in de-saturation from the last day of Carnaval in Teotitlán del Valle.
For some outstanding up-close and full color photos, head over to Oaxaca-The Year After.
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Holidays, Religion, Travel & Tourism, tagged Baile de Los Viejitos, Carnaval, Carnival, Holy Week, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, Semana Santa, Teotitlán del Valle on April 10, 2013| 4 Comments »
Sometimes color seems like a distraction, so an experiment in de-saturation from the last day of Carnaval in Teotitlán del Valle.
For some outstanding up-close and full color photos, head over to Oaxaca-The Year After.
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Food, Holidays, Religion, Travel & Tourism, tagged Baile de Los Viejitos, Carnaval, Carnival, Holy Week, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, Semana Santa, Teotitlán del Valle on April 9, 2013| 3 Comments »
Friday we returned for another extraordinary day — the last day of Carnival.
Again, muchisimas gracias to the gracious and generous people of Teotitlán del Valle.
Posted in Celebrations, Culture, Holidays, Religion, Travel & Tourism, tagged Baile de Los Viejitos, Carnaval, Carnival, Holy Week, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, Semana Santa, Teotitlán del Valle on April 6, 2013| 2 Comments »
I’m playing catch-up with blog posts. After the Good Friday Procession of Silence, I thought life would slow down a little. That’s what’s happened in years past — I caught up on the “to do” list on the home-front, leisurely plowed through the hundreds and hundreds of photos from Semana Santa, did a little research and a lot of thinking about what I’d just seen and experienced, and then crafted a few blog posts.
That was before we found out that Teotitlán del Valle celebrates 5-days of Carnival after Easter, not before Lent! A little levity after the solemnity of Semana Santa and in one of our favorite places was not to be resisted. And so, blogger buddy Chris and I set out on Monday afternoon in search of the house in Sección 1 (the village is divided into 5 geographic areas) that was hosting the daytime fiesta that precedes the evening festivities in the Municipal Plaza.
We returned yesterday for the Sección 5 fiesta, so more to come. Now it’s off to Tlacolula for the Nieve, Mezcal y Gastronomia Festival.
FYI: For a more detailed explanation of this Carnival celebration and photos from last year by a professional photographer, check out Ann Murdy’s website.
Posted in Celebrations, Culture, Holidays, Religion, Travel & Tourism, tagged Christianity, Good Friday, Holy Week. Semana Santa, Mexico, Oaxaca, photo, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, Procesión del Silencio, Procession of Silence, religion, ritual procession, Viernes Santo on April 3, 2013| 8 Comments »
The Semana Santa poster said the Viernes Santo (Good Friday) Procesión del Silencio was to begin at 6 PM in front of Preciosa Sangre de Cristo. Knowing the drill, I arrived at 4:45 to take photos as contingents and participants arrived — but nobody was there. The old antiwar slogan, “What If They Gave a War and Nobody Came” came to mind.
Of course it was going to happen, it’s just that time isn’t what it seems here. Word on the scene had it that, despite the poster info, it wasn’t to begin until 6:30 PM. No worries! Well, except that Mexico doesn’t begin Daylight Saving Time until next weekend, the light began rapidly fading, and 6:30 PM became 7 PM. Por favor, let Oaxaca’s 27th annual Parade of Silence begin!
And it eventually did — up Macedonio Alcalá, left at the Cruz de Piedra, left again on García Vigil to Independencia, another left, and back up the Alcalá. And so, in darkness and silence the procession returned to the church where it all began. Contingents could be heard late into the night parading through the streets of the city, as they returned the Jesuses and Marías to their respective home churches.
Lots more photos can be seen over at Oaxaca-The Year After.
Posted in Celebrations, Culture, Holidays, Religion, Travel & Tourism, tagged Cofradía, Confraternity, Mexico, Oaxaca, penitents, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, Procesión del Silencio, Procession of Silence, religion, Semana Santa, Viernes Santo on March 31, 2013| Leave a Comment »
In Oaxaca the penitents gathered…
in front of Preciosa Sangre de Cristo on Good Friday…
preparing for the Procession of Silence.
For those who are wondering, “What’s with the hoods (capirotes)?” The answer can be traced back to the Middle Ages. Members of lay religious charitable organizations (cofradías) would don the masks and hoods to guarantee anonymity and promote humility in their service.
From the Holy Week in Seville, Wikipedia page:
At the heart of Semana Santa are the brotherhoods (Hermandades y Cofradías de Penitencia),[1] associations of Catholic laypersons organized for the purpose of performing public acts of religious observance; in this case, related to the Passion and death of Jesus Christ and to perform public penance.
The brotherhoods, besides the day-to-day work in preparation for the processions, also undertake many other self-regulated religious activities, and charitable and community work. Many brotherhoods maintain their own chapel, while others are attached to a regular parish.
The Spanish brought the tradition to Mexico and penitents continue to play a major role in the Viernes Santo, Procesión del Silencio in Oaxaca.
Posted in Celebrations, Culture, Holidays, Religion, Travel & Tourism, tagged Easter, Estaciones de la Cruz, Good Friday, Holy Week, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, ritual procession, Semana Santa, Stations of the Cross, Via Crucis, Viernes Santo on March 30, 2013| 2 Comments »
And so Viernes Santo (Good Friday) began…
Mass said, a Vía Crucis (Stations of the Cross) procession through the streets of my neighborhood.
Posted in Celebrations, Churches, Culture, Food, Holidays, Religion, Travel & Tourism, tagged Easter, Estaciones de la Cruz, Lunes Santo, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, ritual procession, Semana Santa, Stations of the Cross, tapetes, Teotitlán del Valle, Via Crucis on March 26, 2013| 4 Comments »
Lunes Santo (Holy Monday) in Teotitlán del Valle provided another moving and memorable experience. For some unknown reason, the village re-enacts the 14 stations of the cross on the Monday before Easter. Following a special early morning mass at the Templo de la Preciosa Sangre de Cristo, statues of Jesus and the Virgin Mary are hoisted on platforms and carried from the church to signal the start of the day-long pilgrimage. They are led by a band playing a mournful and dissonant tune as they set off to wind their way through the cobblestone streets of Teotitlán.
“Stations” are set up along the route by designated families — some are decorated with the village’s famous woolen tapetes (rugs). Tamales, non alcoholic beverages (alcohol, even the ubiquitous mezcal, is forbidden during Semana Santa), and nieves (ices) are offered at others. At all, the appropriate prayers are read, incense of copal is burned, and offerings, including of corn and lilies, are made. And, as always, children have important roles to play.
The procession is solemn and dignified and filled with pre-Columbian, along with Catholic, tradition and symbolism. Like all the other ritual celebrations in Teotitlán del Valle, these are not performed for the benefit of tourists — they are some of the strands of the warp and weft that have woven this community together for thousands of years.
Posted in Celebrations, Churches, Creativity, Culture, Holidays, Travel & Tourism, tagged Catedral de Oaxaca, Cathedral of Oaxaca, Domingo de Ramos, Mexico, Mixteca palm weavers, Oaxaca, Palm Sunday, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, Semana Santa on March 24, 2013| 10 Comments »
In front of Oaxaca’s Cathedral, the Palm weavers from the Mixteca have been practicing their craft with awesome dexterity, creativity, and skill.
All is ready for Domingo de Ramos (Palm Sunday).
Posted in Celebrations, Culture, Education, Language, tagged articles, Centro Académico y Cultural San Pablo, Día Internacional de la Lengua Materna 2013, Endangered Languages Project, ethnolinguistic groups, indigenous peoples, Indigenous Youth Step up to Protect their Roots, International Mother Language Day, language, lengua materna, Mexico, Mother Tongue, native tongues, Oaxaca, San Pablo Academic and Cultural Center, UNESCO on February 19, 2013| 2 Comments »
In 1999, UNESCO designated February 21 as International Mother Language Day. Tomorrow, February 20, Oaxaca begins her own celebration of Día Internacional de la Lengua Materna 2013 with a 2-day conference.
The issue of “lenguas maternas” has a particular resonance in Oaxaca, as the state is home to 16 distinct ethnolinguistic groups: Amuzgos, Chatino, Chinanteco, Chocho, Chontal, Cuicateco, Huave, Ixcateco, Mazateco, Mixe, Mixteco, Náhuatl, Popoloca, Triqui, Zapoteco, and Zoque. As anyone who has visited the villages of Oaxaca has discovered, sometimes the abuelos and abuelas only speak their native language, not Spanish.
However, as Ernestina Gaitán Cruz notes in an article in sinembargo.mx, most of these indigenous languages lack an alphabet, having been passed from one generation to another through an oral tradition, and because these “Mother Tongues” are not taught in the schools, a significant number of these languages are in danger of becoming extinct.
Oaxaca is not alone. From the article, Indigenous Youth Step up to Protect their Roots:
UNESCO estimates that every two weeks, one language disappears from the world.
Education systems have historically played a large part in the disappearance of indigenous languages, sometimes even forcing their extinction by severely punishing and shaming children for speaking native tongues or expressing indigenous identity in any way.
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In some communities where a large portion of the population speaks only the native language, another issue arises: access to important information on topics such as health care, employment opportunities, legal rights and public services.
And, it isn’t just a particular community that suffers, as The Endangered Languages Project explains, The disappearance of a language means the loss of valuable scientific and cultural information.
One of the missions of the Centro Académico y Cultural San Pablo in the city of Oaxaca is to document, study, and preserve the indigenous languages of Oaxaca. The center includes a library, offers language classes, and will be hosting several events during Día Internacional de la Lengua Materna 2013.
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Exhibitions, Travel & Tourism, tagged Danza de los diablos, Devil's Dance, dried corn husks, Mexico, Moisés Ruiz Sosa, Noche de Rabanos, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, Santiago Juxtlahuaca, Totomoxtle on February 16, 2013| 7 Comments »
The sun is shining, but it’s cold. With snow on the ground, I’m living inside. I’m definitely not in Oaxaca anymore! I’m outside of Saratoga Springs, New York. Yes, I traded the land of blue skies, brilliant colors, warm temps, and open doors and windows, for ten days in the frigid, fifty shades of gray, northeast — but for the best of reasons, my grandson’s first birthday. However, I need my Oaxaca fix! So, with a little time on my hands (nap time for baby) I am going through Noche de Rabanos photos. And, these little devils, jumped out at me. (Gosh, I have no idea why!)
These dancers portray La Danza de los diablos, a dance that is the result of a fascinating fusion of African and Sonoran rituals.
They are made of dried corn husks
and were created by Moisés Ruiz Sosa. The detail is amazing!
La Danza de los Diablos de Santiago Juxtlahuaca won second prize in the 2012 Totomoxtle Decorado division.
Ooops! The adorable little devil who melts this heart just woke up. Time to do the crawling-around-on-the-floor dance.
Posted in Celebrations, Culture, Holidays, Travel & Tourism, tagged balloons, candy, Día del Amor y la Amistad, flowers, holidays, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, tulips, Valentine's Day on February 14, 2013| 3 Comments »
Got your hearts? Yes!
Got your flowers? Yes!
Got your candy? Yes!
¡Feliz Día del Amor y la Amistad! (Happy day of love and friendship!)
(ps) To expand your linguistic skills, learn Frases de amor y amistad en 7 lenguas indígenas mexicanas — including Mixe, Mixteco, and Zapoteco.
Posted in Celebrations, Culture, Holidays, Music, Parks & Plazas, Travel & Tourism, tagged Día de Reyes, El Día De Los Reyes Magos, entertainment, festivals, Gangnam style, luchadores, Mexico, Oaxaca, Plaza de la Danza, popular travel destinations, Rosca de Reyes, Three Kings Day, video on January 7, 2013| 3 Comments »
Early Saturday evening, the Plaza de la Danza played host to the Festival Día de Reyes, an event to delight and distribute a kilometer of donated toys to disadvantaged children. The Kings had kids and their parents seeing double.
Lines began forming two hours in advance to be up-front and close to the stage, all the better to be chosen to participate in the games and entertainment that was also part of the festivities.
To the delight of the crowd, three luchadores took the stage to recruit contestants for a mystery contest.
The music came up and Oaxaca’s kids began going, “Gangnam Style” — albeit, some more enthusiastically than others — and all got prizes.
Psy may have sung and danced his last “Gangnam Style” on New Year’s Rockin’ Eve, however, it remains alive and well in Oaxaca!
According to this morning’s Noticias, 6,500 toys (donated by citizens, city government entities, foundations, and businesses) were given to each child present and all received a piece of rosca de Reyes.
As they say, a good time was had by all!
Posted in Celebrations, Culture, Food, Holidays, Parks & Plazas, Religion, Travel & Tourism, tagged carnival rides, Día de Reyes, Epiphany, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, Rosca de Reyes, Three Kings Day on January 6, 2013| 1 Comment »
Today, Mexico is celebrating Día de Reyes (aka, Three Kings Day and Epiphany). It is this morning, not Christmas, that children wake up to find gifts brought during the night not by Santa Claus, but by the Magi.
Melchor, Gaspar, and Baltazar have had plenty of time and places to shop. Several days before December 25, in the aisles of my local supermarket, toys had already replaced Christmas decorations. Llano Park was turned into Oaxaca’s version of a pop-up Toys R Us. Puestos (stalls) filled the park, selling everything from dolls to sports equipment, balloons to books, and even something for the family dog. There were (dicey looking) carnival rides and food stalls offering the usual bounty of street food and the traditional Rosca de Reyes.
And, that’s not all! Early last night, there was a giant festival in the Plaza de la Danza, to entertain and distribute a kilometer of donated toys to disadvantaged children. Stay tuned…