Posted in Animals, Archaeology, Culture, Environment, Flora, tagged #DíadelaTierra, #NoPlaceLikeHome, birds, Earth Day 2015, environmentalism, Mexico, Mixtec, Monte Albán, nature, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, trees, Zapotec on April 22, 2015| 2 Comments »
When atop the massive plateau that is the archaelogical site of Monte Albán, one can’t help but reflect on the pre-Hispanic cultures that built and inhabited this place; cultures whose gods were of the environment — the elements and the agricultural gifts, to man and beast, those elements provided.
Today, as we celebrate Earth Day, perhaps we need a return to the old gods…
Posted in Animals, Celebrations, Culture, Holidays, Markets, Travel & Tourism, tagged Alice's Restaurant, El Día de Acción de Gracias, market day, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, Thanksgiving, Tlacolula de Matamoros, turkeys on November 27, 2014| 1 Comment »
Seating for twenty-two has been scavenged from around the apartment complex, tables (three of which are borrowed) are covered with oilcloth and set with plastic cutlery, cranberry sauce has been made, stock for gravy is simmering on the stove top, and the turkey has been stuffed and is currently roasting in my little oven.
Turkey sellers on market day in Tlacolula de Matamoros, Oaxaca – Oct. 26, 2014.
Neighbors, a former neighbor, and the latter’s Oaxaqueño coworkers will be bringing another turkey, more stuffing, potatoes (mashed and sweet), pumpkin pies, and beverages. Now to put together a playlist which, naturally, will include Arlo Guthrie’s, Alice’s Restaurant Alice’s Restaurant Massacree — a turkey day family tradition since 1967.
Inevitably our guests will ask, “So what exactly does Thanksgiving celebrate?” Do we continue to pass along the myth or do we explain the inconvenient truth, “that the first official Thanksgiving Day celebrated the massacre of 700 Indian men, women and children during one of their religious ceremonies.”
Then there is the question, “How is this holiday celebrated in the USA?” The following holiday rituals will no doubt be described: Many televisions will be tuned to the annual Macy’s Thanksgiving Day parade of giant balloons and traditional turkey day football (North American) games. And, as soon as the last piece of pie has been eaten, growing numbers people will be racing to the nearest shopping mall or computer to take advantage of early-bird “Black Friday” pre-Christmas sales.
However, in between the above, there is always dining table conversation — catching-up stories, old and new jokes, loving reminiscences, and the occasional arguments over politics and/or religion. But, as the folks at the Presente.org Team wrote in an email to their subscribers this morning, for Latinos in the USA, “Thanksgiving dinner might be hard when you’re sitting across the table from a loved one who was left out of the President’s executive action. When the subject comes up, don’t drown your sorrows in a bottomless pitcher of gravy. We created a graphic to help you have that tricky conversation.”
Besides my wonderful family, friends, and blog readers, I am extremely grateful to be a guest in a country where, amidst the beauty and warmth of its people and land, it’s almost impossible to ignore awkward and difficult truths. ¡Feliz Día de Acción de Gracias a tod@s!
Posted in Animals, Flora, Food, Restaurants, Travel & Tourism, tagged agave, bike riders, cattle, Los Huamuches, Mexico, mezcal, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, restaurants on October 13, 2014| 5 Comments »
Sometimes a Sunday drive is just what the doctor ordered. Though when in Oaxaca, one can’t assume the course will run smooth.
After being blocked by bloqueos a couple of times last week, blogger buddy Chris and I were in the midst of congratulating ourselves when our leisurely drive south on Hwy. 190 came to a halt as we attempted to turn west at San Dionisio Ocotepec. At least ten men and a few trucks were positioned across the turnoff. Oh, no, not again… another protest?
No, a bike race had closed the road. Seeing our disappointment, we were directed to make a U-turn, backtrack a mile (or so), and turn onto the dirt road that skirted the hillside, in order to bypass the race. It was easier said than done, but after a few fits and starts, gullies and rocky outcroppings, and inquiries of all manner of vehicles coming from the opposite direction, we eventually wound up back on the paved road — right where we wanted to be!
We weren’t the only ones westward bound. These guys, while not part of the race, were also enjoying a Sunday ride. We passed them on our way to San Baltazar Chichicapam.
And, why were we going to Chichicapam? To fill up our 5 liter “gas” canisters with some of our favorite mezcal made from locally grown agave, of course! Muy suave…
Sunday or not, a campesino’s work is never done. Cattle, burros, and herds of goats were a common sight as we continued our Sunday drive. And, speaking of goats… By the time we turned north at Ocotlán de Morelos, we were starving. Lucky for us, Los Huamuches, our “go to” roadside restaurant between Santo Tomás Jalieza and San Martín Tilcajete, wasn’t far away.
What can I say? Mild temperatures, spectacular scenery, good company, and barbacoa muy sabrosa — the “doctor” was right!
Posted in Agriculture, Animals, Casita Colibrí, Science & Nature, tagged Chapulín de la milpa, Chapulines, grasshoppers, Mexico, Oaxaca, photo, photographs, Sphenarium purpurascens on September 15, 2014| 4 Comments »
This morning’s sunshine (after days of gray) brought a visitor to my door…
A Sphenarium purpurascens, also known as Chapulín de la milpa. No cornfield nearby. Hmmm… perhaps the recent storms blew it off course?
Posted in Animals, Celebrations, Churches, Culture, Religion, Travel & Tourism, tagged animals, Bendición de los Animales, birds, Blessing of Animals, dogs, ferrets, Mexico, Oaxaca, pets, photographs, photos, Saint Raymond Nonnatus, San Ramón de Nonato, Templo de Nuestra Señora de la Merced on September 1, 2014| 8 Comments »
However, my vote for the most exotic pet of the day goes to the hurón, known in English as a ferret. Oh those piercing eyes and those claws. I’d hate to get on her wrong side!
Posted in Animals, Casita Colibrí, Gardens, tagged African Tulip trees, Árbol del tulipán, birds, Colibríes, Flame Trees, garden, hummingbird, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, Spathodea on August 6, 2014| 3 Comments »
The African Tulip Trees (Árbol del tulipán) are in full leaf and bloom, adding an explosion of greens and red-orange to the view from Casita Colibrí…
… and providing the colibríes (hummingbirds), who give my apartment its name, a home, playground, and 4-star restaurant.
Posted in Animals, Culture, Museums, People, Travel & Tourism, tagged dogs, Mexico, Mexico City, Museo Dolores Olmedo, peacocks, photographs, photos, Xoloitzcuintles on July 15, 2014| 6 Comments »
Four days of non-stop sights, sounds, and adventures in Mexico City with my BFF is coming to a close. So much to do and see, there’s been no time for blogging. However, all my bags are packed and I have a few minutes…
Today, L and I ventured out to the Museo Dolores Olmedo in Xochimilco, at the southern end of Mexico City. The museum houses her extraordinary collection of Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera’s work (25 of her pieces and 145 of his), 6000 pre-Hispanic figurines and sculptures, exquisite Chinese ivory, porcelain, cloisonné and lacquer, along with other works of art and artesania. The gardens of this former 16th century hacienda are beautifully landscaped and provide a tranquil escape from the big city. And, they are home to a muster of peacocks. I have no idea how many, but they seemed to be everywhere.
And that’s not all. A pack of Xoloitzcuintles (Mexican hairless dogs) also reside on the grounds, seeming to “pose” for visitors; they especially like the Xolo sculpture in their part of the garden. As anyone who has seen the dogs depicted in pre-Columbian figurines can see, their origins date long before the Spanish ever knew of the Americas.
Museo Dolores Olmedo isn’t easy to get to — it took several metro lines, a train, and a bus to get us there and back — but it was well worth it!!!
Now back to Oaxaca for desfiles (parades), ferias, artesania, and Guelaguetzas.
Posted in Animals, Culture, Travel & Tourism, tagged basketball, bulls, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, San Juan Bautista Coixtlahuaca on May 26, 2014| Leave a Comment »
Bulls, real…
and imagined…
… yesterday on the streets of San Juan Bautista Coixtlahuaca.
We were there for day four of the annual fiesta in honor of el Divino Señor del Calvario and to see the Templo y ExConvento de San Juan Bautista — another of the grand Dominican churches currently undergoing restoration. More about both later. No bull!
Posted in Animals, Culture, Environment, People, Science & Nature, Travel & Tourism, tagged Chapulines, Fondo Guadalupe Musalem, grasshoppers, Lila Downs, Liladownsia fraile, Mexico, Oaxaca, science discoveries, Sierra Madre del Sur, singers, Studies in Mexican Grasshoppers: Liladownsia fraile on May 9, 2014| 4 Comments »
Yippee!!! A new, and extremely colorful, species of grasshopper has been discovered in the pine-oak forest of the Sierra Madre del Sur Mountain Range in Oaxaca. Liladownsia fraile has been named for Oaxaca’s favorite daughter and one of my favorite performers, Lila Downs, someone I’ve written about often.
(Photo Credit: UCF)
From Science Codex,
A newly discovered grasshopper by University of Central Florida scientists now bears the name of Grammy-award winning singer and activist Ana Lila Downs Sanchez.
The scientists named the new species discovered on the side of a mountain road near Oaxaca, Mexico, after the Mexican-American singer as a nod to her efforts to preserve indigenous culture and penchant for wearing colorful, local costumes as part of her performances.
“It was primarily Paolo’s idea to name the grasshopper after the singer” said Derek Woller, one of the authors of the paper referring to colleague Paolo Fontana. “He’s a big fan of Lila Downs (her stage name). The grasshopper is so beautiful, so vibrant and colorful. When he told us all about her, her work, her colorful clothes, and that she was born in the region where we found the specimens, we thought, yeah, that’s great, let’s do it.” Read full article HERE.
According to the Zootaxa article, Studies in Mexican Grasshoppers: Liladownsia fraile, a new genus and species of Dactylotini (Acrididae: Melanoplinae) and an updated molecular phylogeny of Melanoplinae (a mouthful, I know, but the photos are worth scrolling through the article), Liladownsia fraile had been sighted in San José del Pacifico, Suchixtepec, and Pochutla.
By the way, if you are in Oaxaca, Lila Downs is performing tonight at the Teatro Macedonio Alcalá — a benefit for Fondo Guadalupe Musalem, a nonprofit dedicated to improving the lives of the young indigenous women of Oaxaca through education.
Posted in Animals, Gardens, Science & Nature, tagged butterflies, Electrostrymon, garden, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, sedum, succulents on May 7, 2014| 2 Comments »
Yesterday, a new visitor arrived on the rooftop garden. Naturally, I wanted to know the name of this tiny guest who seemed to love my sedum. After searching page by page through my Smithsonian Handbooks: Butterflies and Moths unsuccessfully, I spent hours this morning combing the web. I think my new friend is from the family Lycaenidae (Gossamer-winged); subfamily Theclinae (Hairstreaks); tribe Eumaeini; and genus Electrostrymon. However, for the life of me, I can’t figure out which species — while the markings match, the colors don’t. Any lepidopterists out there who can help?
As for what he (I’m pretty certain it is male) was doing on the sedum — he was rubbing his wings together. For this, I did find an answer. According to the Learn About Butterflies website:
Hairstreaks usually have a pattern of lines or stripes on the underside wings. These, in combination with ocelli ( false eye markings ) and short tails ( false antennae ) act to divert attention away from the head, and towards the outer edge of the hindwings. By oscillating the wings, the tails are made to wiggle like antennae, further increasing the illusion that the butterfly is ‘back to front’. Attacking birds will always aim at the head of a butterfly, but are tricked into aiming at the tail. The butterfly is thus able to escape in the opposite direction unharmed. Another reason for wing-rubbing is that male Hairstreaks have patches of specialised wing scales – ‘androconia’, located on their upperside forewings. Sacs at the base of these scales contain pheromones. Rubbing the wings together helps to disseminate the pheromones, which attract females and induce them to mate.
Maybe there will be some springtime courting on the terrace….
Posted in Animals, Celebrations, Culture, Religion, Sports & Recreation, Travel & Tourism, tagged athletes, cicadas, Día de la Santa Cruz, El Picacho, foot race, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, runners, Teotitlán del Valle on May 4, 2014| 4 Comments »
Yesterday, we returned to Teotitlán del Valle to join in their annual Día de la Santa Cruz hike up El Picacho, the sacred mountain that watches over this incredibly special pueblo. This year, instead taking the route up the mountain directly from downtown like we did last year (and it kicked our a$$), we drove to the presa (dam) and headed up a surprisingly well-marked trail from there. A symphony of cicadas (cigarras or chicharras, en español), serenaded us as we climbed, young people passed us, and Templo de la Preciosa Sangre de Cristo, off in the distance, got smaller. However, after more than an hour, we sighted our first pack burro (they bring up the food and drink) and knew we had almost reached our destination.
We were welcomed at the top by the family hosting the gathering and given cups of agua de jamaica — just what the doctor ordered! There were even more people than last year, music blared from large speakers the aforementioned burros must have carried up the mountain, a new cross had replaced the one that had been hit by lightning last year, and, of course, the views were breathtaking.
But, with spectacular views in all directions, why was most everyone looking down toward the road from the village to the presa?
A foot race! From what we could understand, there were 3 classes of runners; one that ran all the way from mercado in the center of Teotitlán and other two “only” ran up from the presa. Whichever route they took, as one of the runner’s t-shirt says, they were all “chingon!”
And so was this gal, who was on her way up as we were coming down.
Muchisimas gracias, yet again, to the people of Teotitlán del Valle for another unforgettable experience.
Posted in Animals, Celebrations, Churches, Culture, Religion, Travel & Tourism, tagged culture, Domingo de Palmas, Holy Week, Mexico, Oaxaca, offerings, Palm Sunday, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, religion, San Antonino Castillo Velasco, Semana Santa on April 14, 2014| 3 Comments »
San Antonino Castillo Velasco continues to enchant. What’s not to like about a village known for growing flowers, decorating graves with designs created with flor inmortal (immortal flowers) during Día de los Muertos, and floral designs executed in exquisite embroidery?!!
Then there is Palm Sunday and the tradition of gathering at the panteón, loading El Señor del Burrito with locally grown bounty, blessing by the priest, an incense led procession carrying it to the church, and then selling it to raise money for a local orphanage.
It never ceases to amaze! The produce loaded onto the Little Burro, along with the overflow, was fantastic — enormous cabbages, the whitest of white cauliflower, perfect roses, cacao beans, squash, fruits, and on and on…
Then there are the people… young and old, they are always gracious and welcoming. And this year, under temperatures threatening 90ºF, women were circulating throughout the gathering crowd, offering thirst quenching aguas to stave off dehydration.
Oh yes, there were also kids and animals — and sometimes together! As I think I’ve mentioned before, children in these indigenous communities seem to always be included and when old enough (5 and up, I’m guessing), given responsibilities — joy and exuberance, along with patience and commitment, abound.
I loved watching the little boys wrangling the goats as the procession proceeded from the panteón to the church.
Posted in Animals, Creativity, Culture, Travel & Tourism, tagged alebrije, Bertha Cruz, ceramic gecko, geckos, lizards, Mexico, Mitla, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, reptiles, San Antonio Arrazola, Talavera on April 8, 2014| 6 Comments »
This post was inspired by a couple of recent close encounters of the reptilian kind.
When my gal pals were visiting at the end of March, naturally we went to Mitla and wandered through the archeological site. In addition to the intricate fretwork, remains of wall paintings, massive columns, and tombs, one of the, very much alive, residents of this “place of the dead,” caught our eye.
She was extremely busy digging a hole in the rocks (to lay eggs?) and allowed us get within less than a meter from her. One of her relatives was, no doubt an inspiration for one of my favorite alebrije by Bertha Cruz of the woodcarving village of San Antonio Arrazola.
And then, a couple of nights ago, one of my resident, but very shy, geckos made a rare appearance on one of the beams that spans my brick ceiling.
While my geckos greet me in the morning and night with their welcoming chirps, they seldom come out into the open when I’m around. However, there it was, high above my head and frozen in place as I approached. It remained while I went to get my camera and then stayed for the requisite photo shoot. Thank you my chirping friend!
I wonder if, during its nocturnal wanderings through my apartment, my little gecko came across its talavera likeness hanging on the wall?
Posted in Animals, Buildings, Food, Geography, Restaurants, Travel & Tourism, tagged agave fields, cattle, Los Huamuches, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, restaurants, Teotitlán del Valle on March 18, 2014| 8 Comments »
Domingo’s escape from the city out into the countryside of Oaxaca brought back one of my fondest childhood memories: Sunday drives with my grandparents into the golden hills of northern California. Two-lane winding roads with only the occasional car or pickup truck; farms, fields, and roadside stands outside my rolled down window always brought a sense of adventure mixed with freedom and serenity. And, it still does…
Oaxaca city to Teotitlán del Valle, where we yielded to a herd of cattle.
Santiago Matalán past fields of agave to San Baltazar Chichicapam.
We continued on the mostly deserted road towards Octotlán de Morelos.
Onto Hwy. 175 and a lunch stop at the roadside restaurant, between Santo Tomás Jalieza and San Martín Tilcajete, from almost two weeks earlier.
And this time we noted the name: Los Huamuches. Another delicious comida… a perfect way to end our meandering and head for home.
Posted in Agriculture, Animals, Science & Nature, Travel & Tourism, tagged El Picacho, House in the Country lyrics, Mexico, nature, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, reservoir, Teotitlán del Valle on December 13, 2013| 10 Comments »
I went to Teotitlán del Valle yesterday for the annual Virgen de Guadalupe performance of the Danza de la Pluma. As many of you know, I’ve seen it many times, BUT I’ve never stayed until the end, as the dance lasts for eight hours. Yes, 8 hours! It would mean returning to the city late at night — and driving at night is something most try to avoid. Thus, I decided to spend the night at Las Granadas, one of the few B&Bs in town. However, the thought of waking to the sounds of roosters crowing, burros braying, sheep bleating, AND going for a morning walk in the country sealed the deal.
And so, a little before 9 AM today, I headed up (down?) Calle 2 de abril toward El Picacho. The work day had long since begun…
Crossing the Arroyo Grande, I turned right to begin the trek up Revolución. El Picacho kept a watchful eye as I kept pausing to snap photos and just take in the sights and sounds of being out in the country.
My destination was the presa (dam) and its precious reservoir. Most of my life has been spent living five minutes from the San Francisco Bay and fifteen minutes from the Pacific Ocean — and now living in a landlocked city, I do miss bodies of water.
Crossing to the other side of the arroyo, I turned right on Avenida Benito Juárez for the return trip to the B&B.
As I walked, the lyrics to Al Kooper’s, House in the Country kept playing in my mind.
No need to worry
Folks in a hurry
Leave them behind you
No one can find you
House in the country
House in the country
All the relaxin`
Will soon fill the cracks in
Good for your head too
If you are led to
House in the country
House in the country
Green surrounding
Love abounding
You won`t find a manhole there
A sublime morning in Teotitlán del Valle. Ahhh…
Mexican Peso Converter
View From Casita Colibrí 