Back in Oaxaca and it’s scenes like this that make me smile…
At the Tinoco y Palacios entrance to the Mercado Sanchez Pascuas. Otate waiting to be made into escobas (brooms)?
Posted in Culture, Markets, Travel & Tourism, tagged Mexico, Oaxaca, otate, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations on January 14, 2016| 6 Comments »
Back in Oaxaca and it’s scenes like this that make me smile…
At the Tinoco y Palacios entrance to the Mercado Sanchez Pascuas. Otate waiting to be made into escobas (brooms)?
Posted in Culture, Parks & Plazas, Sports & Recreation, Travel & Tourism, tagged basketball, basketball courts, cancha de baloncesto, El Picacho, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, Templo de la Preciosa Sangre de Cristo, Teotitlán del Valle on January 11, 2016| Leave a Comment »
Basketball is big right now in the San Francisco Bay Area; as I write the Golden State Warriors are 35 and 2 and a new, albeit controversial, 18,000 seat arena is in the works. But, I’ll bet it won’t have views like these…
Unlike in wider mestizo Mexico, where soccer reigns supreme, in the Sierra basketball is king. The sport was introduced in the 1930s by president Lazaro Cardenas as a way to bring Oaxaca’s disparate and historically rebellious indigenous groups into the national fold.
Cardenas’ dream of a unified national identity didn’t take root in the Sierra, which has historically been isolated and impoverished, but basketball soon became tied to the region’s most significan traditions, and to indigenous identity itself. — Jorge Santiago
One of several canchas de baloncesto (basketball courts) in Teotitlán del Valle, Oaxaca.
Posted in Celebrations, Culture, Holidays, Travel & Tourism, tagged Christmas, Christmas traditions, inflatable Santa Claus, Mexico, Navidad, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations on December 27, 2015| 1 Comment »
This is how I feel today…
Actually, I took this a few weeks ago on Matamoros (at Tinoco y Palacios) with the intention of writing a blog post lamenting Christmas traditions (Christmas trees, Santa Claus, consumerism, etc.) migrating down from el norte. But, I think I’ll just let the image speak for itself.
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Travel & Tourism, tagged dancers, dried corn husks, flor inmortal, Mexico, Night of the Radishes, Noche de Rabanos, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, Totomoxtle on December 21, 2015| 3 Comments »
The “only in Oaxaca” Noche de Rábanos is coming! If you are in Oaxaca, the zócalo is the place to be on December 23 to watch radishes being carved into familiar and fantastical creations. Among the former, dancers from Oaxaca’s eight regions are a favorite.
Despite of the name, it isn’t just about carved radishes. The artists of Oaxaca work their creative magic in several other categories, including dried flowers…
… and corn husks.
I wish I could be in two places at one time, so I could experience this year’s Night of the Radishes. If you are lucky enough to be there, enjoy and take lots of photos!
Posted in Celebrations, Culture, Holidays, Travel & Tourism, tagged Danza de la Pluma, danzantes, Día de la Virgen de Guadalupe, decorative gourds, Mexico, Oaxaca, offerings, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, Teotitlán del Valle, Virgen de Guadalupe, Virgin of Guadalupe on December 14, 2015| 8 Comments »
Saturday, like all Mexico, Teotitlán del Valle honored the Virgen de Guadalupe. As they do every December 12, the Danzantes de Promesa danced the Danza de la Pluma. However, this was the last performance by this group; their three-year commitment to their god, church, and community was at an end. And, as is their tradition, the dancers and their families offered the village food, drink, and a party to celebrate.
Dancers and their wives, parents, grandparents, godparents, sisters, brothers, and children came bearing fruits, candy, mezcal, and beer.
The children learn at an early age that it isn’t all about them — they are part of a community and have roles to play and contributions to make.
All ages and genders have a role. The men, more often than not, get the glory but look at these women! They radiate the strength and pride of 2000 years of Teotitlán del Valle, Zapotec history and culture.
As darkness fell and after dancing for several hours, 9-year olds, Juana Lizbeth Contreras (Malinche) and Ailani Ruiz Ruiz (Doña Marina) made the rounds of the thousands gathered on the church plaza to distribute their gifts to their community. It was then that emotion overwhelmed me.
A profound muchisimas gracias to the people of Teotitlán del Valle for being so welcoming over the years to a couple of gringo bloggers. Chris and I are so grateful for your generosity of spirit. Definitely, more to come…
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Holidays, Religion, Travel & Tourism, tagged Danza de la Pluma, historical photographs, Iglesia de Guadalupe, Mexico, Oaxaca, photos, popular travel destinations, Virgen de Guadalupe, Virgen de Juquila, Virgen de La Soledad, Virgin of Guadalupe, Virgin of Juquila, Virgin of Solitude on December 12, 2015| 2 Comments »
The bells, bands, and booms have been soundtrack of the city for a week — the virgins are being celebrated! First in line, on December 8, for chiming church bells, processions, and fireworks was the Virgen de Juquila and third will be Oaxaca’s patron saint, the Virgen de la Soledad on Dec. 18. However, in between the eighth and eighteenth, all of Mexico honors the Virgin of Guadalupe. Today, December 12 is her day but, like the others, the festivities began days in advance.
Scenes from last night in front of the Iglesia de Guadalupe in Oaxaca city…
Now on to Teotitlán de Valle for this afternoon’s Día de Guadalupe performance of the Danza de la Pluma. We have been told the festivities will last all night, as the community will also be saying “adios” to this group of dancers — their three-year commitment is at an end. It will be a miracle of the Virgin if we can party hardy until even midnight, but we will give it the old college try!
Posted in Creativity, Culture, Textiles, Travel & Tourism, tagged Antik Batik, Coca-Cola ad, Isabel Marant, Mexico, Mexico News Daily poll, Mixe, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, Santa María Tlahuitoltepec, Totontepec Villa de Morelos, traditional blouses, traje on December 9, 2015| 8 Comments »
As I’ve previously written, two separate (and battling) French designers were exposed as plagiarizing the traditional embroidery designs of Santa María Tlahuitoltepec, a village in the mountainous Mixe region of Oaxaca.

However, at last there is a triumph for the embroiderers and the time-honored motifs handed down from their ancestors and inspired by the land — A Court Rules High-End French Label Doesn’t Own Rights to Indigenous Oaxacan Design.

The people of Santa María Tlahuitoltepec may not be financially wealthy, but they and their community are rich in culture and pride in their history and traditions. They are not angling for a monetary settlement — all they want is that their work and designs be recognized and respected.

While we are on the topic of disrespect of indigenous peoples, we have the recent disgraceful Coca-Cola México advertisement, showing Hipsters Bringing Soda To Indigenous Mexicans — another Mixe village, Totontepec Villa de Morelos. After an immediate social media campaign challenged the ad, Coca Cola pulled it. As this teleSUR article details, This New Coca Cola Ad Shows Mexico’s White Savior Problem. In addition, like the USA, obesity is growing problem here, thus a Reply to Coca-Cola comes in new video by the Alliance for Food Health featuring two Mixe students speaking about the health risks posed by these kinds of “soft drinks” that lack any nutritional value.
By the way, the English language Mexico News Daily is running a poll, asking if you “agree that the controversial Coca-Cola Christmas video was racist or offensive?” And, I’m appalled that as I write, the results are: 32% yes and 68% no!!!
Posted in Creativity, Culture, People, Travel & Tourism, tagged art, Fabián Calderón Sánchez, graffiti, Mexico, murals, popular travel destinations, Sanez on December 5, 2015|
Artist Fabián Calderón Sánchez (aka, Sanez) has changed the face of the building next to Hotel Azucenas again!

Located on calle Martiniano Aranda, in the 6-1/2 years I’ve lived in the ‘hood, the front of this building has played host to two previous murals by Sanez.
I’ve been a big fan of his distinctive work and was again captivated by his creative and powerful use of indigenous imagery.
The mural is signed, Macuilxochitl Losdelaefe — MTY (Monterrey) – OAX (Oaxaca) – GDL (Guadalajara) – www.sanez.mx – 2015.
Let us hope this doesn’t meet the same fate as other murals in my neighborhood recently have.
Posted in Culture, Music, Travel & Tourism, tagged markets, Mercado Sánchez Pascuas, mercados, music, Oaxaca, popular travel destinations, video on November 18, 2015| 2 Comments »
Monday, I returned to Oaxaca following a mini-vacation to the state of Jalisco to visit mi amiga J in Ajijic and to attend the annual Feria Maestros del Arte in Chapala. It’s a nice place to visit, but I must admit, its appeal escapes me. I guess I’m spoiled by Oaxaca’s countless charms, like today’s “music to shop by” at Mercado Sánchez Pascuas.
Muzak, it most definitely is not!
Posted in Creativity, Culture, Transportation, Travel & Tourism, tagged automobiles, bus, cars, catrina, graffiti, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, street art, urban art, Vocho, Volkswagen Beetle, VW bug, wall art on November 10, 2015| 5 Comments »
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Holidays, Travel & Tourism, tagged calacas, calaveras, Day of the Dead, Día de los Muertos, Días de Muerto, decorative skulls, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, skeletons on November 1, 2015| 7 Comments »
This year, around and about Oaxaca during Día de Muertos, especially for my skeleton loving grandson. (Click on images to enlarge)
Besos y abrazos, Abue. 😉
Posted in Celebrations, Culture, Flora, Holidays, Travel & Tourism, tagged cempasuchitl, Day of the Dead, Día de Muerto, flor de muertos, flowers, marigolds, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, veruche on October 30, 2015| 4 Comments »
Today I ventured down to Calle de Ignacio Rayón (the block between the Benito Juárez and 20 de Noviembre mercados) to purchase flowers for my Día de Muertos ofrenda (an altar of offerings). On the list was cockscomb (cresta de gallo or borla de Santa Teresa), marigolds (cempasúchitl), and veruche (also known as flor de muertos). I wasn’t alone, the sidewalks were crowded with other shoppers in search of the same traditional flowers, fruits, nuts, copal, and other items to place on their ofrendas.
Veruche is a tiny relative of the marigold that grows wild in the valley of Oaxaca at this time of year. Yellow was the color of death in southern Mexico, long before the Spanish set foot on the continent and, along with the scent of the flowers and smoke from the candles and copal, it is thought to attract the difuntos (spirits of the dead) to bring them to the ofrendas prepared for them.
Muchisimas gracias to Shawn D. Haley for his informative presentation at the Oaxaca Lending Library on the Zapotec celebration of Día de Muertos. Needless to say, I also purchased the book he coauthored with photographer Curt Fukuda, The Day of the Dead: When Two Worlds Meet in Oaxaca.
Posted in Casita Colibrí, Creativity, Culture, Travel & Tourism, tagged Casita Colibrí, ceramic faces, Colima, Mexico, Oaxaca, popular travel destinations, wall art, wall hanging on October 26, 2015| 2 Comments »
Posted in Buildings, Creativity, Culture, Museums, Travel & Tourism, tagged art, Lapiztola, murals, Museo Belber Jimenez, museums, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, urban art, wall art on October 24, 2015| 14 Comments »
She’s gone…
As feared, by order of the government, the beautiful and moving mural by Lapiztola, on the side of Museo Belber Jimenez, has been erased.
I miss her, too. Color and culture, indeed, seem to be unwelcome.
Posted in Celebrations, Churches, Culture, Holidays, Religion, Travel & Tourism, tagged Catedral de Oaxaca, flowers, La catedral de Nuestra Señora de la Asunción, lilies, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, Señor del Rayo on October 21, 2015| 6 Comments »
I love going into Oaxaca’s cathedral at this time of year, when the fragrance of thousands of flowers, especially lilies, perfumes the air.
The Catedral de Nuestra Señora de la Asunción is being readied for October 23, the day Oaxaca celebrates Señor del Rayo.
Like Guelaguetza, Noche de Rabanós (Night of the Radishes), and Día de la Samaritana (Good Samaritan Day), this is an “only in Oaxaca” celebration.
This carving of Christ on the Cross was brought to Oaxaca during the 16th century and was placed in the temple of San Juan de Dios, a church which had adobe walls and a straw (or possibly wood) roof.
Legend has it that lightning struck the church and everything was destroyed, save for this figurine. A miracle!
The statue became known as Señor del Rayo (Lord of Lightning), was placed in his own chapel (the furthest capilla from the main entrance on the left) in the newly built cathedral, and has been much venerated ever since.
October 21, in anticipation of his special day, the cathedral is festooned with lilies and Señor del Rayo is moved out of the glass case in his chapel, to the main altar of the cathedral.
October 22 will be filled with religious and cultural events and at midnight, when the calendar day changes, the cathedral bells will peal and cohetes (rockets) will announce the arrival of Señor del Rayo’s special day.
In honor of His day, on October 23, there will more spiritual and cultural festivities, culminating in a castillo and fireworks.
As the color and scent of the lilies fade, on October 24 Señor del Rayo will be returned to his chapel.
The end of eleven days of festivities celebrating Señor del Rayo.