March 19 is Day of the Artisans in Mexico. And so I say, ¡Feliz Día de las Artesanas y los Artesanos! — especially to the budding artists who are appreciating and learning to carry on folk art traditions.
Young artisans at work carving radishes on the morning of the 2023 Noche de Rabanos.
Greetings from cold, gray, windy, and rainy Northern California. I arrived a couple of weeks ago and am still in recovery from a three-day wedding in Teotitlán del Valle right before I departed for winter in the San Francisco Bay Area. Family, friends, frozen fingers, and a severe case of sticker shock have also contributed to no new blog posts for sixteen days. And, please consider this advance warning: I’m going to be in el norte for several months. However, I have many ideas and photos for future Oaxaca focused blog posts — they just may be few and far between. I begin with remembering last February’s return visit to Vives Verde, the labor of love garden created by architect Francisco Martínez.
Over fourteen years ago, architect Francisco Martínez began a project of landscaping a former garbage dump into a healing, artistic, and environmental garden — a marriage of plants, recycling, whimsical art, and education.
A water catchment system utilizing paths, beds, and ponds irrigate this garden of more than 200 species and 2000 plants — mostly from Oaxaca.
Francisco and his garden are dedicated to raising awareness of preservation and conservation of the sustainable environment. In his effort to fulfill the garden’s mission, he hosts free guided tours — ranging from the architecture faculty of the Universidad Regional del Sureste to students from the Sor Juana Inés de la Cruz primary school.
Jean-Baptiste Racine’s quote, “Life is a comedy to those who think, a tragedy to those who feel” comes to mind when I reflect on 2023. Looking at the state of the world, I think many of us have spent the year vacillating between laughing and crying. However, on this New Year’s Eve, I prefer to remember the celebrations and places I experienced with family and friends, old and new. These are the times that nourish my soul and empower me to welcome 2024.
January 2023 – Mill Valley, CA. “Fork in the road.” I took the high road.
February 2023 – Oaxaca de Juárez. Archivo Histórico del Estado de Oaxaca.
March 2023 – San Agustín Etla, Oaxaca. “Seamus Heaney & Jan Hendrix en Yagul” exhibition at Centro de las Artes de San Agustín (CASA).
April 2023 – Oaxaca de Juárez. View from El Mirador Restaurante.
May 2023 – Oaxaca de Juárez. Cross on construction site in honor of Día de la Santa Cruz.
June 2023 – San Antonino Castillo Velasco, Oaxaca. Don José Garcia Antonío (aka, the blind potter).
July 2023 – Teotitlán del Valle, Oaxaca. Convite welcoming people to the festival honoring La Preciosa Sangre de Nuestro Señor Jesucristo.
August 2023 – La Mesa, CA. Sunset over the Pacific Ocean.
September 2023 – Oaxaca de Juárez. Escaramuzas riding in the Mexican Independence Day parade.
October 2023 – Oaxaca de Juárez. “Nelson” one of the Oaxaca Guerreros baseball team’s mascots.
November 2023 – Villa de Mitla, Oaxaca. Interior wall and ceiling in the “Church Group” at the Mitla archeological site.
December 2023 – Unión Zapata, Oaxaca. Feria de la Agrobiodiversidad en Oaxaca.
Many thanks to all the wonderful readers of my blog; I am constantly amazed and gratified you choose to stop by. On this New Year’s Eve, with a renewed appreciation for the small things that bring joy and give life meaning, I wish you all, ¡Feliz Año Nuevo!
If it’s December 23, it must be the “only in Oaxaca” Noche de Rábanos. I love going in the morning to watch these skilled artists and their imaginations at work creating exquisite sculptures out of radishes — of all things!
And, there weren’t just radishes. Creations of totomoxle (dried corn husks) and flor inmortal (dried flowers) were also on display. Stay tuned…
All over Mexico on December 12th the country pauses to honor and celebrate the Virgin de Guadalupe, also known as the Queen of Mexico, Empress of America, and patron saint of Mexico. And, there is no place I would rather be on this day than in Teotitlán del Valle watching the Danza de la Pluma. The dance is a ritual reenactment of the battles between the Aztec and the Spanish conquistadors. In this Zapotec village, the dancers make a 3-year religious commitment to perform it at the four major religious festivals each year, including Guadalupe.
Members of the Danza de la Pluma Promesa 2022-2024 entering the atrium of Templo de la Preciosa Sangre de Cristo.
Malinche, Moctezuma, Doña Marina, and danzantes.
Dancing under the watchful gaze of the sacred mountain, Cerro Picacho, Quie Guia Betz in Zapotec.
Danzantes “leaning in” during one of the 40+ dances of the Danza de la Pluma.
Moctezuma preparing to leap during one of the dances.
Members of the Danza de la Pluma Promesa 2022-2024 and their band.
A profound muchisimas gracias to the people of Teotitlán del Valle for always being so warm and welcoming.
Walking with Little Amal, known here as La Pequeña Amal, was a remarkable, moving, and hopeful experience. This 3.5 meter tall marionette, representing a 10-year old Syrian refugee girl searching for her mother, has traveled the world in her search — bringing a message of peace, respect, solidarity, and protection for all refugees.
At last Thursday’s calenda (parade), smiling school groups, some wearing traditional dress from the various regions of Oaxaca, held handmade signs proclaiming “Yes to peace no to war,” “Peace is achieved with love and understanding,” and for a “Life without borders.” Giant marmotas whirled, flashing messages of “Welcome” and “Amal, you are not alone” while a band played and China Oaxaqueña dancers danced their way down Oaxaca’s walking street. All the while, an amazingly lifelike Amal waved, shook hands, radiated with gratitude, and carried herself with dignity as she made her way from Santo Domingo to the Cathedral. I wasn’t the only one with tears in my eyes.
While in Oaxaca, Amal also visited Monte Albán to take in the spectacular archaeological zone, Santa María del Tule to try to hug the largest (in circumference) tree in the world, and 20 de noviembre market to receive a huge loaf of bread — a symbol of alleviating world hunger. Her last stop in Oaxaca was at Parque Morelos to bring her message of hope and support to the migrant families passing through Mexico on their way from Venezuela, Haiti, El Salvador and Nicaragua bound for the USA. It is in this park, a tireless group of volunteers from the non profit, Centro de Apoyo para Migrantes Universales Collin A.C., feed the unrelenting stream of refugees seven days a week. They also accept donations of clothing, blankets, backpacks, toiletries, and money. Click on their website for how and where to donate and/or to volunteer.
I’ve always liked Thanksgiving — and not just because, after I turned 12, my aunt would pour a little red wine in a shot glass for my cousin and me. It’s one of the least commercial US holidays, if one discounts the whole “black Friday” phenomenon. And, it isn’t wrapped in flag waving. It’s a day set aside for a communal sharing of Mother Nature’s bounty, counting our blessings, and acknowledging and giving thanks for the assistance of the dark-skinned original human inhabitants of the Americas. What a novel idea!
Puesto Patti at Mercado Hidalgo in Colonia Reforma.
I will be sharing this day with my apartment complex neighbors and some of our favorite friends. We have completed our major shopping expeditions in search of fresh cranberries, brussel sprouts, Vidalia onions, and other ingredients not commonly found in Oaxaca to contribute to our feast. (Thank you, Mercado Hidalgo!) Two small turkeys (2 because none of our ovens are big enough to fit a 20 lb turkey) have been purchased and we will all be contributing a side dish or two. It’s a busy day in this neighborhood!
Puesto Patti at Mercado Hidalgo in Colonia Reforma.
Besides being thankful for my loving and supportive family, wonderful friends (both old and new), dedicated and encouraging blog readers (Yes, you!), I’m extremely grateful for having the privilege of having a home living among people whose ancestors first cultivated corn 10,000 years ago in this beautiful valley.
Puesto Patti at Mercado Hidalgo in Colonia Reforma.
And, not only corn, archaeologists have discovered evidence of turkey domestication 1,500 years ago in the valley of Oaxaca’s Mitla Fortress. According to Gary Feinman, Field Museum curator of Mesoamerican anthropology, “It’s a bird very, very similar to what a lot of people are going to eat on Thursday.”
Wedding procession in Barrio Jalatlaco.
My cranberry/pear relish is in the refrigerator chilling. However, before making the dressing, I’m headed off to join with Little Amal in a calenda down the Macedonio Alcalá from Santo Domingo de Guzmán to Catedral de Nuestra Señora de la Asunción — bringing her message of “hope for displaced people everywhere, especially children who have been separated from their families.”
On November 3rd, K and I headed to San Antonino Castillo Velasco — a Zapotec community 24 miles south of Oaxaca city. It is a village known for growing flowers and for the floral embroidery decorating its traditional blouses and dresses.
Their difuntos (departed souls) understand their families are busy providing flowers for altars and tombs in the surrounding villages in the valley and wait until November 3-4 to return and spend time with their living loved ones. Because floral design plays such an important role in the traditions and commerce of the village, it is carried over to the elaborate decorating of the tombs in the panteón (cemetery).
One of the flowers grown is the “flor inmortal” (immortal flower), so named because, even when dried, it retains its brilliant colors. Artisans in the village use these flowers to create intricately designed figures on display December 23 in the city of Oaxaca during Noche de Rábanos and to decorate the graves of loved ones during Día de Muertos.
In the cemetery villagers mix the area’s very fine dirt with water, cover the graves with this damp mud, and use a trowel to smooth it. Once dry, they outline designs and religious imagery into this mud canvas and use flowers (fresh and dried) to paint the scene. Entire families are involved — male and female, young and old. It is a labor of love and incredibly moving to behold.
There is a duality surrounding the celebration of Día de Muertos (Days of the Dead) in Oaxaca. While most every home and many public buildings and businesses construct altars with ofrendas brimming with flowers, candles, bread, chocolate, fruit, nuts, beverages, copal incense, and often photos of the departed, there is a distinct difference between the traditions of the more mestizo communities (Oaxaca city and the Etlas, for example) and those of the indigenous communities. The former often includes raucous comparsas (parades) called muerteadas with costumes, masks, painted faces, music, and “adult beverages.” According to the book, Day of the Dead: When Two Worlds Meet in Oaxaca, the muerteada allows the dead “to ‘occupy’ a living body, either a muerteada participant or an audience member, for a time, and therefore enjoy the entertainment directly rather than vicariously.”
However, in the indigenous villages these days are more solemn, filled with ritual, and are family oriented. I lean toward this more spiritual observance, so I escaped the craziness of the daily comparsas and drunken crowds in the city and went to stay in the Zapotec village of Teotitlán del Valle with my compadres (including comadre K) and to shop in Tlacolula for pan de muertos (bread), candles, and flowers to take to the ofrendas of families K and I have a relationship with in Teotitlán and San Pablo Villa de Mitla.
Tlacolula de Matamoros – Vendors of caña (sugar cane) used to create an arch over ofrendas.
Tlacolula de Matamoros – Ofrenda in the Templo de Santa María de la Asunción.
Tlacolula de Matamoros – Tapete de arena (sand painting) in Templo de Santa María de la Asunción.
San Pablo Villa de Mitla – Store front.
San Pablo Villa de Mitla – Ofrenda on home altar.
San Pablo Villa de Mitla – Detail from a public ofrenda.
Teotitlán del Valle – Ofrenda (offerings) on home altar.
Teotitlán del Valle – Tamales amarillo traditionally served on November 1.
Teotitlán del Valle – Panteón (cemetery) early evening on November 2.
While the Día de Muertos observances may differ, the bottom line in both city and pueblo is to provide a welcome worthy of both the living as hosts and the dead as honored guests.