Posted in Creativity, Culture, Science & Nature, Travel & Tourism, tagged graffiti, Mexico, murals, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, street art, urban art, Winter Solstice on December 21, 2013| 2 Comments »
It may be the Winter Solstice, but here in Oaxaca my doors and windows are already open and I’m looking at a clear blue sky and an 85° F temperature forecast. Ahhh…
This is about as close as we get to Old Man Winter…
Mural on a wall along Niños Heroes, Oaxaca
Happy Winter Solstice to all in the northern latitudes and happy Summer Solstice to those south of the equator.
Posted in Celebrations, Churches, Culture, Holidays, Parks & Plazas, Religion, Travel & Tourism, tagged Basilica de la Soledad, food, Mexico, Nuestra Señora de la Soledad, Oaxaca, Patrona de los Oaxaqueños, photographs, photos, Plaza de la Danza, popular travel destinations, Queen of Oaxaca, Virgen de La Soledad, Virgin of Solitude on December 18, 2013| 6 Comments »
Today is the feast day of Nuestra Señora de la Soledad, the mother, queen, and patron saint of Oaxaqueños.
If you enter the word “soledad” into a Spanish to English translation program, “solitude” and “loneliness” result. However, for the past ten days, Our Lady of Solitude hasn’t had much of an opportunity to be lonely. On December 15, she was taken down from her glass encased niche in the Basílica, that bears her name, and carried out into the fresh air of the church plaza. On the 16th, she took a road trip through the streets of Oaxaca, stopping to visit several other churches along the route.
The faithful have been coming to honor her.
And, over the past 24 hours, she has been entertained by fireworks, bands, and the ringing of bells.
Food stalls surround her from Morelos to Independencia…
along with vendors of the sacred…
and the profane.
There is even a carnival for the kids.
With crowds, like these…
Nuestra Señora de la Soledad might just be looking forward to returning to the solitude of her glass enclosed niche. I know I’m looking forward to a quiet night’s sleep!
Posted in Parks & Plazas, Travel & Tourism, tagged brooms, escobas de otate, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, twig brooms on December 16, 2013| 10 Comments »
Company coming for comida tomorrow. Today, I’m cooking and cleaning. I could use one of these…
Oaxaca’s ubiquitous, escobas de otate. By the way, they work great!
Posted in Agriculture, Animals, Science & Nature, Travel & Tourism, tagged El Picacho, House in the Country lyrics, Mexico, nature, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, reservoir, Teotitlán del Valle on December 13, 2013| 10 Comments »
I went to Teotitlán del Valle yesterday for the annual Virgen de Guadalupe performance of the Danza de la Pluma. As many of you know, I’ve seen it many times, BUT I’ve never stayed until the end, as the dance lasts for eight hours. Yes, 8 hours! It would mean returning to the city late at night — and driving at night is something most try to avoid. Thus, I decided to spend the night at Las Granadas, one of the few B&Bs in town. However, the thought of waking to the sounds of roosters crowing, burros braying, sheep bleating, AND going for a morning walk in the country sealed the deal.
And so, a little before 9 AM today, I headed up (down?) Calle 2 de abril toward El Picacho. The work day had long since begun…
Crossing the Arroyo Grande, I turned right to begin the trek up Revolución. El Picacho kept a watchful eye as I kept pausing to snap photos and just take in the sights and sounds of being out in the country.
My destination was the presa (dam) and its precious reservoir. Most of my life has been spent living five minutes from the San Francisco Bay and fifteen minutes from the Pacific Ocean — and now living in a landlocked city, I do miss bodies of water.
Crossing to the other side of the arroyo, I turned right on Avenida Benito Juárez for the return trip to the B&B.
As I walked, the lyrics to Al Kooper’s, House in the Country kept playing in my mind.
No need to worry
Folks in a hurry
Leave them behind you
No one can find you
House in the country
House in the country
All the relaxin`
Will soon fill the cracks in
Good for your head too
If you are led to
House in the country
House in the country
Green surrounding
Love abounding
You won`t find a manhole there
A sublime morning in Teotitlán del Valle. Ahhh…
Posted in Celebrations, Churches, Culture, Holidays, Religion, Travel & Tourism, tagged boys, children, girls, Juan Diego, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, Templo de Nuestra Señora de Guadalupe, Virgen de Guadalupe, Virgin of Guadalupe on December 11, 2013| 6 Comments »
Tomorrow, December 12, is el Día de la Virgen de Guadalupe, aka, Queen of Mexico, Empress of America, and patron saint of México.
Legend and belief has it that in, “1525, only four years after the conquest, the Aztec Quauhtlatoatzin was baptized by a Franciscan priest, who named him Juan Diego. Six years later, on December 9th, Juan Diego witnessed the first appearance of the Virgin of Guadalupe. She told him she wanted a church built on Tepeyac Hill and told him to communicate her wish to the authorities. Mexico’s first Bishop, Juan de Zumárraga, didn’t believe him.” She appeared to Juan Diego three more times and with her last apparition, “she asked him to go gather some flowers: roses, which had never grown there, much less in mid-winter. He wrapped them in his ayate or tilma, a sort of coarsely woven cape, and the Virgin told him not to open it until he was before the Bishop. When Juan Diego opened the tilma in front of Bishop Zumárraga, the roses cascaded out and they discovered the image of the Virgin imprinted upon it. ” Thus, her iconic cloak we see in paintings and statues.
In Oaxaca, her fiesta began on December 2 and will end with a mass at 7 PM on December 13. Today, little boys of the city, dressed as Juan Diego, and little girls, in the traditional traje (costume), were brought by parents (and grandparents) to the Templo de Nuestra Señora de Guadalupe (at the north end of Llano Park), where they waited patiently in long lines to enter the church to be blessed. Once they exited, fifteen (más o menos) “Guadalupe settings” designed and constructed by photographers and their assistants, vied for pesos for portraits.
By the way, there was a reward awaiting the little Juan Diegos and his sisters — rows upon rows of food stalls, carnival rides, and puestos selling toys, Santa hats, Christmas lights.
Tomorrow, I’m off to Teotitlán del Valle for their traditional Virgen de Guadalupe performance of the Danza de la Pluma. And, did I mention yesterday’s national Day of the Clown festivities? Stay tuned…
Posted in Buildings, Creativity, Culture, Exhibitions, Music, Travel & Tourism, tagged Barrio de Jalatlaco, Consolamentum, Jason Pfohl, Matria Jardín Arterapéutico, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, street art, Taj Mahal, Take a Giant Step lyrics, urban art on December 10, 2013| 2 Comments »
The walls of Oaxaca remind me of words sung by Taj Mahal…
Excerpt from mural in Jalatlaco on Callejón de Hidalgo at Aldama
From Consolamentum installation by Jason Pfohl at Matria Arterapéutico.
Remember the feeling as a child
When you woke up and morning smiled
It’s time, it’s time, it’s time you felt like that again
There is just no percentage in remembering the past
It’s time you learned to live again and love at last
Come with me, leave your yesterday, your yesterday behind
And take a giant step outside your mind
Listen to Taj Mahal’s version of Take a Giant Step by Gerry Goffin and Carole King.
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Holidays, Religion, Travel & Tourism, tagged Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, religious pilgrimages, Virgen de Juquila, Virgin of Juquila on December 7, 2013| 7 Comments »
No doubt, tomorrow I will be awakened, long before the crack of dawn, by the cracks and pops of cohetes (rockets — all bang no bling) and the seemingly non-stop clangs and bongs emanating from the bell towers of the countless churches that surround me in Oaxaca city’s historic district. And, I’m sure, I will hear the sounds of a procession — December 8 is the feast day of the Virgin of Juquila (La Virgen de Juquila).
Flatbed truck on Constitución in Oaxaca city, Dec. 6, 2012.
According to legend, in 1633, when a fire burned the small Chatino village of Amialtepec to the ground, a small wooden statue of the Virgin Mary was rescued amidst the ashes. She was undamaged, save for her light skin color, which was permanently darkened by the smoke, causing her to more closely resemble the Chatino people, who live in this remote mountainous region. Local priests declared her survival a miracle and she has been venerated ever since and her image appears throughout Oaxaca.
Image of La Virgen de Juquila along highway 175.
In 1776, the Bishop had a new temple built for La Virgen de Juquila in the nearby, but larger, village of Santa Catarina Juquila. Today, pilgrims continue to come, not just on her feast day, often making the arduous journey up into the mountains by bicycle or even on foot. They go to La Capilla del Pedimento in Amialtepec to fashion images from its clay soil — replicas of wished for items (cars, houses, healed body parts, etc.) to lay at her feet.
Side of a building in residential neighborhood of Santa Cruz Xoxocotlán, Oaxaca
According to this morning’s Noticias, the Archbishop of Antequera Oaxaca has called upon Catholics, as part of tomorrow’s feast day, to pray for reconciliation and peace in Oaxaca. That’s a tall order. The miracle of her survival has given La Virgen de Juquila the power to bestow miracles — such is the faith of her believers. We shall see…
Posted in Creativity, Culture, Travel & Tourism, tagged graffiti, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, street art, urban art on December 4, 2013| 4 Comments »
Are you willing
to stick your neck out?
Currently sticking her neck out on Matamoros, between Tinoco y Palacios and Crespo.
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Holidays, Religion, Travel & Tourism, tagged All Things Must Pass, cemetery, Day of the Dead, Día de los Muertos, George Harrison quote, Living in the Material World, Mexico, Oaxaca, panteón, photographs, photos on November 30, 2013| 1 Comment »
Last night, flipping through my Cablemas channels, I happened upon Martin Scorsese’s 2011 film, George Harrison: Living in the Material World. I’ve seen this beautiful documentary before, could watch it many more times, and how could I resist, on Black Friday night, the wonderful irony of the title? I’m sure George is chuckling somewhere.
Yesterday marked the twelfth anniversary of George’s death (no doubt the reason it was being shown) and, as I watched and listened to Olivia describe the importance George placed on preparing for one’s death, I couldn’t help but reflect on Día de los Muertos. All things must pass; death as a part of the journey of being. And, some of this year’s Muertos photos seemed to be ready to let go of most of their color…
All Things Must Pass
by George Harrison
Sunrise doesn’t last all morning
A cloudburst doesn’t last all day
Seems my love is up and has left you with no warning
It’s not always going to be this grey
All things must pass
All things must pass away
Sunset doesn’t last all evening
A mind can blow those clouds away
After all this, my love is up and must be leaving
It’s not always going to be this grey
All things must pass
All things must pass away
All things must pass
None of life’s strings can last
So, I must be on my way
And face another day
Now the darkness only stays the night-time
In the morning it will fade away
Daylight is good at arriving at the right time
It’s not always going to be this grey
All things must pass
All things must pass away
All things must pass
All things must pass away
Posted in Agriculture, Culture, Food, Holidays, Travel & Tourism, tagged Charles Bukowski quote, corn, El Día de Acción de Gracias, El Picacho, maíz, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, Teotitlán del Valle, Thanksgiving, turkeys on November 28, 2013| 12 Comments »
I’ve always liked Thanksgiving — and not just because, after I turned 12, my aunt would pour a little red wine in a shot glass for my cousin and me. It’s one of the least commercial US holidays, if one discounts the whole “black Friday” and, now, “brown Thursday” (eww!) phenomenon. And, it isn’t wrapped in flag waving.
It’s a day set aside for a communal sharing of Mother Nature’s bounty, counting our blessings, and acknowledging and giving thanks for the assistance of the dark-skinned original human inhabitants of the Americas. What a novel idea!
Besides being thankful for my loving and supportive family, wonderful friends (both old and new), dedicated and encouraging blog readers (Yes, you!), I’m extremely grateful for having the privilege of living among people whose ancestors first cultivated corn in this beautiful valley.
“love
iz
a
big
fat
turkey
and
every
day
iz
thanksgiving”
― Charles Bukowski, What Matters Most is How Well You Walk Through the Fire
Now off to the kitchen to make the stuffing. ¡Feliz Día de Acción de Gracias!
Posted in Culture, Economics, Travel & Tourism, tagged ambulantes, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, vendors on November 26, 2013| 4 Comments »
The XII World Congress of the Organization of World Heritage Cities has ended, its delegates have departed, and the ambulantes, Oaxaca’s heart and soul, have returned.
A joy to behold and the basil the gal in the upper right photo was selling smelled divine!
Posted in Buildings, Creativity, Culture, Travel & Tourism, tagged art, Mexico, Oaxaca, painters, photographs, photos, street art, urban art on November 25, 2013| 5 Comments »
A neighbor and I were standing on the upper terrace of our apartment complex, watching the guys paint the dome of Iglesia de San José (a future blog post), when I looked to the south… Hmmm, I’d never noticed the art on the side of that tall yellow building — and neither had she. I whipped out my little Lumix and took this photo at 12:25 PM.
At 12:26 PM, I was about to take a second shot when the guy, his staff, and the little church at his feet, began climbing up the side of the building. Whoa!!!
By 12:27 PM, they were gone…
At 4:02, while composing this blog post, I got up from my desk to take a look at the building again — trying to figure out where exactly this banana yellow 3+ story building is located. Imagine my surprise when I saw the guy and his staff back on the side of the building AND his twin on the far right.
What the @#$% ??? Unable to curb my curiosity, I took off in search of my on/off/on again friend. At 4:34 PM, walking south on Tinoco y Palacios (which becomes, J. P. García), I found him at 308 J. P. García (almost to Las Casas), hanging out above Veana (one of my “go to” shops for kitchen ware).
At 4:35 PM, from across the street, I stood on the sidewalk gazing up at this reappearing painting on the side of the building. ¡Un milagro!
At 4:36 PM, I still don’t understand… What was it we saw earlier today? A stencil? Artists, can you enlighten me? All I can say is, I am VERY glad this painter is fastened to a harness. Of course, I’m hoping it’s not just being hand-held by the two guys on top of the building!
People often ask, “What do you DO all day?” This is as good an answer as I can come up with!
Posted in Animals, Casita Colibrí, Gardens, tagged aves, birds, Cat Stevens, Mexico, Morning Has Broken, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, Yusuf Islam on November 23, 2013| 10 Comments »
This morning, I awoke before the crack of dawn. I’m a morning person, but 5:00 AM is ridiculous when one doesn’t have to go to work! However, after grinding my half oscuro and half claro blend (so glad I brought my coffee grinder down), brewing, and drinking my first cup of Oaxacan coffee of the day and finally answering some long overdue emails, I looked up. Two hours had passed and the sky had turned from black to clear blue. The early morning light beckoned me and my new camera outside and I discovered, I wasn’t alone. Morning is also for the birds.
Morning has broken, like the first morning.
Blackbird has spoken, like the first bird.
Praise for the singing, praise for the morning,
Praise for them springing fresh from the Word.
“Morning Has Broken,” by Yusuf Islam (formerly known as Cat Stevens) kept playing in my mind. It was a lovely way to begin the day.
Posted in Culture, Economics, Renovation, Travel & Tourism, tagged Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, UNESCO, World Heritage Site, XII World Congress of the Organization of World Heritage Cities on November 21, 2013| 8 Comments »
Monte Alban and the historic center of Oaxaca are coming up on the twenty-sixth anniversary of being designated UNESCO World Heritage sites. And, as I write, the city is hosting the XII World Congress of the Organization of World Heritage Cities, with delegations from 230 other World Heritage cities in town for the 4-day conference.
It is to be expected that any host city would get out the spit and polish to show itself in the best light and Oaxaca is no exception. The city is being cleaned to the nth degree and, much to driver and passenger delight and relief, the ubiquitous baches (potholes) throughout the city have been patched.
And graffiti? It’s history, as soon as it appears.
Besides the much-welcome repair of treacherous streets, squeaky clean sidewalks, and pristine building facades, there is something else missing. Where have all the ambulantes (street vendors) gone? If you have ever been to Oaxaca, you will no doubt remember the indigenous vendor puestos (across from the Cathedral) that line the Alameda de León from the Post Office to the Hotel Monte Alban. They are gone, along with the ambulantes in the plaza alongside Carmen Alto. Even the lovely women from San Antonino Castillo Velasco, who sell their beautiful, intricately hand-embroidered wedding dresses and blouses along Macedonio Alcalá, have been removed from the street.
I later discovered, the latter have been temporarily relocated to the courtyard of the Biblioteca Pública Central.
But what of the other vendors? Where are they? Are they being compensated for lost revenue? According to this article in Proceso, market trader organizations, “agreed to withdraw for six days without compensation.” Hmmm….
I have to ask, why? Is it just colonial buildings and archeological sites that warrant a World Heritage site designation? I don’t think so. Oaxaca is an incredibly vibrant, living breathing city whose primary value and cultural heritage lies not in her buildings, but with her people, especially her indigenous citizens, who have given and continue to give much of what makes Oaxaca so special — their food, music, artistry, and kind, strong, and gentle presence. In 2007, on my first visit, it’s what had me at, hola!
According to the UNESCO World Heritage Centre website, regarding Oaxaca and Monte Alban, criterion IV states, “Among some 200 pre-Hispanic archaeological sites inventoried in the valley of Oaxaca, the Monte Alban complex best represents the singular evolution of a region inhabited by a succession of peoples: the Olmecs, Zapotecs and Mixtecs. The City of Oaxaca, with its design as a check board and its iconic architecture, has developed over more than four centuries as evidence of the fusion of two cultures Indian and Spanish.” [my emphasis]
Posted in Buildings, Celebrations, Culture, History, Holidays, Travel & Tourism, tagged Día de la Revolución, Gabino Cué Monteagudo, history, Mexico, Oaxaca, Octavio Paz quote, parade, photographs, photos, Revolution Day on November 20, 2013| Leave a Comment »
Today Mexico is celebrating el Día de la Revolución (Revolution Day). It commemorates the beginning of the bloody revolution that quickly drove dictator/president Porfirio Díaz from his 31-year long reign. A November 22, 1910 headline in the Palestine [Texas] Daily Herald proclaimed, “Revolution Is Now On In Mexico: The Real Thing is Reported Under Way in State of Chihuahua, Mexico.” However, the civil war raged on for ten years, as various factions battled for power and the peasantry fought for, in the words of Emiliano Zapata, ¡Tierra y libertad! (Land and liberty!) It is estimated to have cost 1.9 to 3.5 million lives.
At least here in Oaxaca, 20 de noviembre is not celebrated with as much pomp, circumstance, and military hardware as September 16th, Independence Day. However, there were school floats…
The Government Palace was decked out in green, white, and red and the Governor, along with other dignitaries, presided from its balcony.
As always, the bomberos (firefighters) received much applause as they passed by the crowds gathered along the parade route.
Not so much love given to these guys from the Agencia Estatal de Investigaciones, an agency of Oaxaca’s Attorney General’s office.
And then there was this gal, directly across from the Government Palace…
Octavio Paz writes in The Labyrinth of Solitude, “The Revolution began as a demand for truth and honesty in the government…. Gradually the movement found and defined itself, in the midst of battle and later when in power. Its lack of a set program gave it popular authenticity and originality. This fact accounts for both its greatness and its weaknesses.” [p. 136, Grove Pr. 1985]
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