Remember Have brooms will travel? One day a motorcycle, another day a cart.
And today, the man behind the brooms.
Escobas de otate are the best for street sweeping!
Posts Tagged ‘Oaxaca’
Man behind the brooms
Posted in Culture, Travel & Tourism, tagged brooms, escobas de otate, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, twig brooms on January 17, 2017| Leave a Comment »
Keeper of the flame
Posted in Culture, Music, People, Travel & Tourism, tagged Black & white photos, Casa Colonial, Jane Robison, Keeper of the Flame lyrics, Lila Downs, Mexico, music, Oaxaca, Paul Cohen, photographs on January 15, 2017| 4 Comments »
It’s been a musical twenty-four hours. Last night, under the stars in the courtyard of the Casa de la Ciudad, friends and I attended a lovely recital by four classical guitarists. And, late this afternoon, I walked down to Casa Colonial for a performance by Paul Cohen and his jazz combo. It was a fundraiser for the Libros Para Pueblos library in San Martín Tilcajete sponsored by the Casa’s owner, Jane Robison, in the name of her late husband, Thorny.
There was blue sky, sun, and standing room only as good vibes and jazz filled the garden venue. A couple of tunes into the first set, Paul brought up his wife, multiple Grammy award winner and Oaxaca’s favorite daughter, Lila Downs to sing a few songs, including the closing song, “Keeper of the Flame” (first recorded by Nina Simone). Lila, speaking to an audience overwhelmingly from the USA, noted it was a timely titled selection, given the current political climate. And everyone knew exactly who and what she was referring to.
Keeper Of the Flame
(Nina Simone version)
I’m the keeper of the flame
My torch of love lights his name
Ask no pity, beg my shame
I’m the keeper of the flame
Played with fire and I was burn
Gave a heart but I was spurn
All these time I have yearned
Just to have my love return
Years have passed by
The spark still remains
True love can’t die
It smoulders in flame
When the fire is burning off
And the angels call my name
Dying love will leave no doubt
I’m the keeper of the flame
Years have passed by
The spark still remains
True love can’t die
It smoulders in flame
When the fire is burning out
And the angels call my love
Dying love will leave no doubt
I’m the keeper of the flame
It’s a song not just about lost love. As Lila alluded, we are all keepers of the flame.
Oaxaca in Washington D.C.
Posted in Creativity, Politics, Travel & Tourism, tagged banners, demonstrations, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, politics, protests, Women's March Oaxaca, Women's March on Washington on January 12, 2017| 12 Comments »
This is the banner from Oaxaca that will be carried at the Women’s March on Washington on January 21, 2017. If you go, look for it!
If you are in Oaxaca, join U.S. citizens and friends on January 21 at 11:00 AM, in front of Templo de Santo Domingo de Guzmán, for a Women’s March Oaxaca — in solidarity with the Women’s March on Washington. Your bodies and banners would be most welcome! Just remember, slogans should be directed toward the U.S. government, as foreigners are forbidden by law from involvement in Mexican politics.
Cuauhtémoc, the last emperor
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Exhibitions, Holidays, People, Travel & Tourism, tagged Cuauhtémoc sculpture, José Yehú Santos Aguilar, Mexico, Night of the Radishes, Noche de Rabanos, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations on January 9, 2017| 1 Comment »
Of the rábanos from Noche de Rábanos, this radish sculpture of Cuauhtémoc, the last Aztec emperor of Tenochtitlan, was my favorite.
“Cuauhtémoc: El Último Gran Emperador Azteca” by José Yehú Santos Aguilar took second place in the Free Radish category.
We three kings…
Posted in Celebrations, Children, Culture, Holidays, Religion, Travel & Tourism, tagged Día de Reyes, El Día De Los Reyes Magos, Epiphany, los tres Reyes Magos, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, Rosca de Reyes, Three Kings cake, Three Kings Day, toys on January 6, 2017| 5 Comments »
Today, Mexico is celebrating Día de Reyes (aka, Three Kings Day and Epiphany). It is today, not Christmas, that children wake up to find gifts brought during the night, not by Santa but by the Magi. Melchior, Gaspar, and Balthazar still had enough stamina to stroll the Alcalá late this morning handing out presents. Alas, gold, frankincense, and myrrh seem to have gone out of fashion.
Later this afternoon, at the new Polideportivo Venustiano Carranza, the children’s choir “Agnus Dai,” will perform and “Los Payasos y Domo de la Ciencia” from the Oaxaca Science and Technology Council will hold activities. After a siesta, los tres Reyes Magos will also make their way up to the sports complex to hold contests and continue their gift giving.
By the way, at a meeting I attended today, guess who bit into the little plastic baby Jesús hidden in the Rosca de Reyes (Three Kings cake)? You guessed it! Hmmm… That means I have to host a tamal and atole party on Candlemas, February 2nd, for everyone at the meeting. That’s the tradition in Oaxaca!
Have brooms will travel
Posted in Culture, Transportation, Travel & Tourism, tagged brooms, escobas de otate, Mexico, motorcycles, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, street sweepers on January 3, 2017| 2 Comments »
That was the year that was…
Posted in Celebrations, Churches, Creativity, Culture, Exhibitions, Gardens, Travel & Tourism, tagged Alejandro Santiago, æbleskiver (Danish pancakes), calaveras, cemetery, Christmas Eve, Cuba, Flamboyant trees, Guelaguetza desfile, hearts, Mexico, New Year's Eve, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, Santo Domingo de Guzmán, sculptures, weather on December 31, 2016| 11 Comments »
It was a year I’m sure many would like to forget; it was disastrous for the planet AND her inhabitants. For me, on this last day of the year, I choose to reflect on the beauty, joy, love, and new adventures that I was fortunate to experience.
I welcomed 2016 in the San Francisco Bay Area at my childhood home, now my younger son’s domicile. Thus on New Year’s Day, I made æbleskiver (Danish pancakes) using my great grandmother’s recipe and her, well over 100 year old, cast iron pan.
Æbleskiver on New Year’s Day 2016; a family tradition.
Back in Oaxaca, February brought a community Día de Amor y Amistad fiesta in my apartment complex. Have I mentioned? I have wonderful neighbors!
Valentine’s Day party decorations in the patio.
March was unseasonably hot, but the blue skies and flamboyant trees beginning to bloom made it bearable.
Flamboyant trees, Santo Domingo de Guzmán, and agave.
April took me to Cuba, a lifelong dream finally realized. It was more fascinating, confounding, and fabulous than I had ever expected.
View from the Hotel Habana Riviera.
By May, the flamboyant trees had leafed out and were in full bloom — and we needed it, as the hot-hot-hot temperatures continued.
Flamboyant trees and Santo Domingo de Guzmán looking picture perfect.
A calavera on the streets of Oaxaca in June? Absolutely! She knows no season.
Sad calavera standing on the sidewalk.
And, then there was July! So much to see and do, this month warrants three images.
Indigenous pipe and drums lead off the first, and stormy, Guelaguetza desfile.
El Jardín Etnobotánico was again the site of the Mole Festival. So beautiful!
Vela Vinnii Gaxheé parade float waiting for the Intrepidas to board.
The rainy season was in full force in August and I loved standing on my terrace watching the storms approach, though sometimes they didn’t make it all the way to Casita Colibrí. Microclimates!
Storm approaching the city from the south.
September brought the second major feast day in Teotitlán del Valle: Fiesta a la Natividad de la Virgen María.
Bringing canastas to the church for the unmarried women and girls to carry in the convite.
I was in California from late September to early October, and when I returned there was a new exhibition in the courtyard of the Museo de Arte Prehispánico de México Rufino Tamayo.
Some of the 2501 migrant sculptures by the late Alejandro Santiago.
For the past couple of years, one of my destinations on November 1 has been the panteón in Tlacolula de Matamoros; its beauty and tranquility always take my breath away.
Light and shadows cast by the daughters of the Tule tree, play off the colors of the chapel in the panteón.
Later in November, I spent a delightful Thanksgiving with family and friends on the east coast of the USA, but returned to spend Christmas in Oaxaca for the first time in three years. It was just as joyous and colorful as I remembered!
Nochebuena angels on a float in the zócalo.
These three are the future; let’s vow to do all we can to give them a better world than the 2016 one that is departing.
Many thanks to you all; I am constantly amazed and gratified that you choose to stop by. Wishing all the best for you, your loved ones, and your communities in 2017. ¡Feliz año nuevo a tod@s!
Noche de Rabanos, pt. 2
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Exhibitions, Holidays, People, Travel & Tourism, tagged Afromexicanos, Costa Chica, Dance of the Devils, Danza de los diablos, Día de Muertos en la Costa Chica, Mexico, Moisés Ruiz Sosa, Night of the Radishes, Noche de Rabanos, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, Raymundo Sánchez Monserrat Maricela on December 28, 2016| 6 Comments »
As I previously explained, Noche de Rabanos isn’t just about radishes. One of the other categories of entries is Totomoxtle Decorado. And the winner was Moisés Ruíz Sosa, with his dyed cornhusk depiction of Día de Muertos on the Costa Chica of Oaxaca.
Descendants of slaves, the Afromexicano population of Oaxaca is located in 16 municipalities, with 11 of these municipalities located in the Costa Chica, Oaxaca’s far western coastal region, bordering the state of Guerrero.
During Day of the Dead, the Danza de los Diablos (Dance of the Devils) is performed in these communities.
Dancers wear devil masks, and are led by a colonial ranch foreman with a whip, who “struts around, while his buxom ‘white’ wife – played by a black man – flirts outrageously with the ‘devils’ and even the audience.” [The black people ‘erased from history’]
To see the Noche de Rabanos 2013 entry by Moisés Ruíz Sosa, click HERE.
By the way, the “Elaborando Artesanía, Plasmando Sueños: ‘Teotitlán del Valle, Tierra de Dioses’” by Raymundo Sánchez Monserrat Maricela, which I wrote about in Noche de Rabanos, pt. 1, took first prize in the Flor Inmortal Adulto category!
Feliz Navidad from Oaxaca
Posted in Casita Colibrí, Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Flora, Holidays, Music, Travel & Tourism, tagged 'Twas the Night Before Christmas, Christmas decorations, Christmas Eve, Eduardo Guerrero, Ernie Villarreal, Mexico, Nochebuena, Oaxaca, Pancho Claus, photographs, photos, poem, Pointsettias, popular travel destinations on December 24, 2016| 6 Comments »
‘Tis Nochebuena in Oaxaca and all is well. The sun is shining and goodwill is felt on the streets and in the mercados. Casita Colibrí is festooned with seasonal decorations both outside and in.
Tonight, posadas from throughout the city will converge on the zócalo with Josés, Marías holding baby Jesús, and angels on flatbed trucks; pinwheels, sparklers, and fireworks will light the night sky; brass bands will play; and China Oaxaqueñas will dance. I can’t wait! In the meantime, may Ernie Villarreal’s version of Pancho Claus by Chicano music legend, Eduardo “Lalo” Guerrero, bring the gift of joy to those near and far.
Pancho Claus
‘Twas the night before Christmas and all through la casa
Not a creature was stirring, Caramba! ¿Que pasa?
Los ninos were all tucked away in their camas,
Some in vestidos and some in pajamas.
While Mama worked late in her little cocina,
El viejo was down at the corner cantina.
The stockings were hanging con mucho cuidado,
In hopes that St. Nicholas would feel obligado
To bring all the children, both buenos y malos,
A Nice batch of dulces and other regalos.
Outside in the yard, there arouse such a grito,
That I jumped to my feet, like a frightened cabrito.
I went to the window and looked out afuera,
And who in the world, do you think que era?
Saint Nick in a sleigh and a big red sombrero
Came dashing along like a crazy bombero!
And pulling his sleigh instead of venados,
Were eight little burros approaching volados.
I watched as they came, and this little hombre
Was shouting and whistling and calling by nombre.
¡Ay, Pancho! ¡Ay, Pepe! ¡Ay, Cuca! ¡Ay, Beto!
¡Ay, Chato! ¡¡Ay, Chopo! ¡Maruca and ¡Nieto!
Then standing erect with his hand on his pecho
He flew to the top of our very own techo.
With his round little belly like a bowl of jalea,
He struggled to squeeze down our old chimenea.
Then huffing and puffing, at last in our sala,
With soot smeared all over his red suit de gala.
He filled the stockings with lovely regalos,
For none of the children had been very malos.
Then chuckling aloud and seeming contento,
He turned like a flash and was gone like the viento.
And I heard him exclaim and this is VERDAD,
Merry Christmas to all, And to All ¡Feliz Navidad!
May you all find peace and joy every day of the year.
Noche de Rabanos, pt. 1
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Exhibitions, Holidays, People, Travel & Tourism, tagged flor inmortal, Mexico, Night of the Radishes, Noche de Rabanos, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, Raymundo Sánchez Monserrat Maricela, Teotitlán del Valle on December 23, 2016| 5 Comments »
It’s December 23 in Oaxaca and Noche de Rabanos is upon us. The setting-up has begun and the spectators are gathering. Despite its name, it isn’t just about artisans working their creative magic carving radishes. There are three other categories, including the use of Flor Inmortal (a type of dried flower). I will return this evening, but in the meantime, this entry titled, “Elaborando Artesanía, Plasmando Sueños: ‘Teotitlán del Valle, Tierra de Dioses'” by Raymundo Sánchez Monserrat Maricela, is for all my friends in Teotitlán del Valle.
Spinning the wool.
Weaving tapetes from the spun wool.
Grinding corn or maybe chocolate OR maybe even cochinilla!
Dancing the Danza de la Pluma…
The danzantes of the Grupo de Danza de Pluma Promesa keeping their promise.
I think Raymundo did a wonderful job capturing the people of Teotitlán del Valle, the Land of the Gods, who make crafts and shape dreams.
Gift of solitude, not!
Posted in Celebrations, Churches, Culture, Holidays, Religion, Travel & Tourism, tagged Basilica de la Soledad, dancers, Danza de los Negros, Mexico, Nuestra Señora de la Soledad, Oaxaca, Patrona de los Oaxaqueños, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, video, Virgen de La Soledad, Virgin of Solitude on December 19, 2016| 4 Comments »
Nuestra Señora de la Soledad is the patron saint, queen, and mother of Oaxaqueños — and she is my vecina (neighbor). Thus, I shall not want for revelry!
“Inside” Soledad, in the Basílica — Dec. 17, 2016
Despite her name, there is no solitude for Soledad or her neighbors on her December 18 feast day — or the days and nights leading up to it. Like her sister December virgin images, Juquila and Guadalupe, she seems to thrive on the cacophony that is fiesta life here — after all they are Mexican Marías.
Dancing for Soledad through the streets – Dec. 16, 2016
“Child” Soledad on a flatbed truck – Dec. 16, 201616
Fireworks from the Basílica de la Soledad courtyard – Dec. 15, 2016
So, bandas playing traditional music (loudly), fireworks and rockets booming and banging, church bells urgently chiming, and lively recorridos (travels) through the streets of the city, beginning early in the morning and continuing well beyond midnight, are welcomed.
Estandartes in the Basilica awaiting another recorrido – Dec. 17, 2016
China Oaxaqueñas dancing through streets – Dec. 16, 2016
Fireworks from the Basílica de la Soledad courtyard – Dec. 17, 2016
The celebrations began at 5:00 AM on December 7, with a ringing of church bells and a “dawn journey” and culminated with a grand fiesta yesterday, December 18, her feast day. She seemed to enjoy the festivities, including these guys from the Istmo performing for her, *La Danza de los Negros.
Soledad’s fiesta will end tomorrow (Dec. 20) with a concert of Christmas carols at 7:00 PM. It’s been great fun, but I’m already looking forward to Noche de Rabanos on December 23!
“Outside” Soledad in the Basílica courtyard – Dec. 18, 2016
*La Danza de los Negros is another of those complex and multilayered dances traditional to specific indigenous cultures in Oaxaca. For more information, check out the article (en español), Los Negros, tradición bixhahui, ícono de Chihuitán.
Gifts from my garden
Posted in Animals, Casita Colibrí, Flora, Gardens, Science & Nature, Travel & Tourism, tagged African Tulip trees, agave, birds, Casita Colibrí, caterpillars, flowers, garden, Mexico, Oaxaca, orb weaver spiders, photographs, photos on December 17, 2016| 12 Comments »
Last week, a friend of mine in California challenged me to post a nature photo every day for seven days on Facebook. I had participated in one of these challenges nine months before, posting mostly photos from the countryside. This time, I decided to acknowledge the gifts that Mother Nature keeps surprising me with in my rooftop terrace garden.
African tulip tree seen from my terrace, July 6, 2016
Neoscona Oaxacensis orb weaver spider, Sept. 9, 2016
Night Blooming Cereus early morning, July 21, 2016
Lesser Goldfinch (I think) on the terrace chain link fence, Nov. 12, 2016
Io moth caterpillar munching on plumeria leaf, Oct. 31, 2016
Hibiscus flower taken Oct. 19, 2016
Agave and Stapelia gigantia early evening, Oct. 24, 2016
And, in the spirit of the season, they are my gifts to you. Hope you like!
Gift from Guadalupe
Posted in Celebrations, Culture, Holidays, People, Travel & Tourism, tagged Danza de la Pluma, danzantes, Día de la Virgen de Guadalupe, Edgar Daniel Ruiz Ruiz, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, Teotitlán del Valle, Virgen de Guadalupe on December 14, 2016| 8 Comments »
And we thought last year’s Día de la Virgen de Guadalupe in Teotitlán del Valle was exceptional! It was, but, for blogger buddy Chris and me, this year brought even more warmth, appreciation, and the intangible of being present in the richness of more layers of being in this special village.
Edgar Daniel Ruiz Ruiz
We are patrons of two of the danzantes of the 2016-18 Grupo de Danza de Pluma Promesa in Teotitlán del Valle — and Edgar Daniel Ruiz Ruiz is one of them. As such, we were invited to the home he shares with his parents, Mario Ruiz Bautista and Victoria Ruiz, to partake in the traditions and observe the responsibilities that accompany taking on the three year commitment to being a member of the Grupo.
Mario Ruiz Bautista (on left) overseeing the offerings
From my albeit limited understanding, as part of the commitment the dancers make during their three years of service, each of their families is tasked with taking a turn hosting one of the four yearly festivals.
Victoria Ruiz watching Edgar’s dance
The day began with a breakfast of traditional breads and hot chocolate and was followed by Mole de Castilla, a mole unique to Teotitlán and served during weddings and the most important festivals. There must have been over 100 people, including Edgar’s extended family, padrinos, danzantes and their families, and band members. They gathered and were served in the courtyard of the Ruiz home, with men seated at one long table, women on the other side of the courtyard at another, and the two gringos seated with the danzantes in the altar room opening onto the courtyard.
Breakfast breads with hot chocolate
Following the meal, chairs and tables were folded and removed, the danzantes took the floor, the band began to play, and, as the sun streamed down on the courtyard, Edgar began his dance. It was a touching moment to see this young man, whom I’ve known for almost six years, since he was a gangling teenager, and Chris has known since he was a small boy, dance with such confidence and pride.
Following dances by the whole group, with band leading the way, dancers, families, and guests processed down the steep and winding streets from the house to the church.
Edgar Daniel Ruiz Ruiz en route to the church, accompanied by Victoria (his mother) and his nephew.
They filed into the church, where a special mass was celebrated, and then regrouped in the church courtyard to begin the seven hour (más o menos) Danza de la Pluma. Early in the afternoon, while the dance continued, the families and invited guests returned to the Ruiz home, where the families of the other dancers each made formal presentations of baskets of fruit and mezcal or cervesa to Mario and Victoria. This was followed by a comida (lunch) of caldo de pollo. After all were fed, the offerings were loaded into pickup trucks to be taken to the church plaza, to later be shared with the community. At night, after the dance ended, we all again returned to Casa Ruiz for barbecoa de res (beef) in a rich and flavorful sauce, cervesas, mezcal, and soda pop. I can’t even begin to imagine all the work that went into preparing all the food, orchestrating its serving, and then washing all the dishes — by hand in basins set up in the yard across the street.
Edgar Daniel Ruiz Ruiz
It’s been over twenty four hours since Chris and I returned from Teotitlán del Valle and, though we talked continuously on the drive back to the city and have spoken several times since, we are still unable to put into words how meaningful and how honored we were to share this special day with Edgar, his family, and his community. It was a precious gift. ¡Muchisimas gracias a todos!
For more, see Chris’s blog post, A very special Dia de Virgen de Guadalupe.
Holiday still life
Posted in Culture, Food, Holidays, Travel & Tourism, tagged bottle, cervesa, Christmas season, Mexico, Noche Buena beer, Oaxaca, photographs, photos on December 10, 2016| Leave a Comment »
A sign of the times… Navidad (Christmas) must be coming!
An empty bottle of Noche Buena cervesa sitting on a sill outside of Templo de San Jose. Noche Buena is the much-in-demand seasonal bock-style beer from Heineken Mexico. Its appellation, besides meaning “good night,” is also the name for the poinsettia plant and the word for Christmas Eve in Spanish. ¡Salud!
Juquilita: Dear dark one
Posted in Celebrations, Culture, Holidays, Religion, Travel & Tourism, tagged Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, religious pilgrimages, Virgen de Juquila, Virgin of Juquila on December 8, 2016| Leave a Comment »
December seems to be el mes de las vírgenes (the month of the virgins) in Oaxaca. Early this morning cohetes (rockets) and church bells announced the first of the month’s three virgin days; the feast day of la Virgen de Juquila. And, this afternoon, on the Alameda in front of Oaxaca’s cathedral, a small procession gathered.
According to legend, in 1633, when a fire burned the small Chatino village of Amialtepec to the ground, a small wooden statue of the Virgin Mary was rescued amidst the ashes. She was undamaged, save for her light skin color, which was permanently darkened by the smoke, causing her to more closely resemble the Chatino people, who live in this remote mountainous region. Local priests declared her survival a miracle and she has been venerated ever since.
Alas, that wasn’t the end of the story; the priest in the village of Juquila convinced the “powers that be” that she should be moved to the bigger and better church in Juquila. She, however, had other ideas and returned to Amialtepec. This back and forth continued another three times. Finally, in 1719, La Morenita (the dear dark one), as she had come to be known, gave up her traveling ways and agreed to call Santa Catrina Juquila her permanent home.
The faithful make pilgrimages to both her old and new mountain homes (about four hours southeast of Oaxaca city). They come year round on foot, on bicycle, and in all other manner of transport, to make offerings and pray for miracles, but especially during the days leading up to December 8. October 8, 2014 marked her crowning achievement; in a grand ceremony, she received a papal coronation, joining her previously crowned (1909) Oaxaca sister, Nuestra Señora de la Soledad.
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