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Archive for the ‘Travel & Tourism’ Category

Urban artist, Yescka, at work on December 20, 2013 at Gorilla Gallery in Oaxaca…

Live action painting from the back of the glass, a devilish Virgen de Guadalupe emerges…

From the back and from the front, La Virgen is finished.

Yescka then turned to one of the gallery’s windows; outside looking in and inside looking out.

Like street art, these works are not forever.  In a month (or so), the virgin will be disappeared and another artist will come to Gorilla Gallery to create another ephemeral masterpiece.

Gorilla Gallery is at Crespo 213 and is open on Thursdays, from 2:00 – 8:0 PM.

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Walking down the Alcalá… on the way home late yesterday afternoon… sounds of a band… I look up towards Santo Domingo… and see a calenda coming down the street.

Universidad La Salle Oaxaca on parade.  Reason # 552 why I love living here!

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At a busy intersection, on a small concrete island, sits the bust of a woman.  Who is she?

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This is where Pino Suarez and República both meet Niños Heroes, traffic comes in at “unnatural” angles, and my attention is usually laser focused on attempting to look in the right direction, deciphering which traffic lights do what, and keeping my adrenalin in check as I determine the safest moment to dash across each street.

However, a few days ago, on my return to El Centro, after having walked far up into Colonia Reforma, I decided to take a break and investigate.  Just who is this indigenous woman who presides from her triangular perch.

P1010334Meet Brigida Garcia de Juárez, from the mountain village of Guelatao, Oaxaca — mother of Oaxaca’s beloved favorite son and Mexico’s revered former president, Benito Pablo Juárez García.  She died when he was only three years old.

The plaque that rests at the base of the monument reads, “Madre de Benemérito de America – H. Ayuntamiento – 1984.  Mother of the distinguished national hero of modern Mexico.

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We are still enjoying the Christmas merry-go-round in Oaxaca.  Lucky for “children” young and old, the San Pablo Cultural and Educational Center has even provided a real (not just metaphorical) carousel to hop on during this holiday season.  And today, along with riding the merry-go-round, in honor of Día de Reyes, all were welcome to partake in the traditional Rosca de Reyes (Three Kings cake) — served by none other than Tato, the birdbrain (after all he is an ostrich) Oaxaca Guerreros team (baseball) mascot (though I think he was doing more eating than serving).  Thankfully, on this chilly night, there was also hot chocolate (with milk or water, your choice) with which to warm hands and dip cake.

Whew!!!  A baby Jesus figurine was not found in my piece of Rosca de Reyes, so I won’t have to throw a tamale and atole party on Candlemas, February 2nd, for everyone present at this evening’s festivities.

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While Santa Claus is making inroads into Mexico, it’s tonight’s visit by Melchor, Gaspar, and Baltazar that children anxiously await.  Los Reyes Magos (the Three Wise Men) bring gifts in Mexico, Latin America, and Spain.  Tomorrow, January 6, is El Día de Reyes (aka, Epiphany) and children will scramble to see what the Magi brought them.

Special markets have been set up; puestos upon puestos selling toys, sporting equipment, and any and everything else kids desire.  Friday, it was quite a scene on the Alameda, as for the 22nd year, a toy drive, sponsored by El DIF Municipal and Grupo Radio México, was in progress.  And, naturally, there were payasos (clowns) to help the kings collect.

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According to reports, the Kilómetro del Juguete (kilometer of toys) collected 2500 items on Friday, alone.

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From doll buggies to…

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to skateboards…

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The toys will be distributed to disadvantaged children this afternoon in the Plaza de la Danza, in a program that begins at 5:00 PM.  There will be music (of course!), contests, entertainment, and local celebrities.  Last year was a hoot!

My upstairs neighbors and I have been without running water since yesterday afternoon.  So, we’re just hoping Los Reyes Magos bring us water — preferably today! 

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In 2014, don’t…

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or do, what feels good.

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(In Oaxaca, on Berriozábal at the corner of Reforma.)

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Feliz año nuevo y muchisimas gracias to all my wonderful blog readers — for reading, for commenting, for sharing, for the opportunity to meet some of you, and for inspiring me to continue.

Tonight, don’t forget to eat 12 grapes at midnight, making a wish for the new year as you eat each one.  And, if one of your wishes is to travel, take your suitcase out for a walk after you finish your grapes.

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I Hope You Dance
Written by Mark D. Sanders and Tia Sillers and
recorded by Lee Ann Womack

I hope you never lose your sense of wonder
You get your fill to eat
But always keep that hunger
May you never take one single breath for granted
God forbid love ever leave you empty handed
I hope you still feel small
When you stand by the ocean
Whenever one door closes, I hope one more opens
Promise me that you’ll give faith a fighting chance

And when you get the choice to sit it out or dance
I hope you dance
I hope you dance

I hope you never fear those mountains in the distance
Never settle for the path of least resistance
Living might mean taking chances
But they’re worth taking
Lovin’ might be a mistake
But it’s worth making
Don’t let some hell bent heart
Leave you bitter
When you come close to selling out
Reconsider
Give the heavens above
More than just a passing glance

And when you get the choice to sit it out or dance
I hope you dance
(Time is a wheel in constant motion always)
I hope you dance
(Rolling us along)
I hope you dance
(Tell me who)
I hope you dance
(Wants to look back on their youth and wonder)
(Where those years have gone)

I hope you still feel small
When you stand by the ocean
Whenever one door closes, I hope one more opens
Promise me that you’ll give faith a fighting chance

And when you get the choice to sit it out or dance
Dance
I hope you dance
I hope you dance
(Time is a wheel in constant motion, always)
I hope you dance
(Rolling us along)
I hope you dance
(Tell me who)
(Wants to look back on their youth and wonder)
I hope you dance
(Where those years have gone)

(Tell me who)
I hope you dance
(Wants to look back on their youth and wonder)
(Where those years have gone)

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To contemplate is to look at shadows.  — Victor Hugo

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From last night’s “Fuego Nuevo” performance by the Ballet Folklórico Tradicional del Estado de Oaxaca at the Plaza de la Danza.  Using music and dance, this “espectáculo” tells the story of the beginning of a new cycle in the Mixteca culture.

(FYI:  For those in Oaxaca, it’s free and repeats tonight at 7 PM.)

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Despite of the name, Noche de Rábanos isn’t just about carving radishes.  The creativity and ingenuity of the gardeners and artisans of Oaxaca in several other categories are also on display — Flor Inmortal (dried flowers), Totomoxtle (dried corn husks) Natural, and Totomoxtle Decorated, as well as two Children’s categories.

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First place in the Totomoxtle Natural category went to Elpidio Adrián González López and his amazing creation, Mercado Antiguo en la Plaza de las Armas 1885.

If you missed it December 23 on the zócalo, or want to see it up close and personal, head over to CaféCafé, on the corner of Porfirio Díaz and M. Bravo.

It will be on display until January 6, 2014.

h/t Jane & Ken

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Noche Buena (Christmas Eve) in Oaxaca means posadas from churches around the city converge on the zócalo.  Flatbed trucks carrying Jesus, Mary, and Josephs; fireworks, pinwheels, and sparklers; brass bands; China Oaxaqueña folkloric dancers; and the faithful carrying candles arrive to circle the zócalo again and again and again.  Spectators, young and old wave sparklers, take photos, and crack powder or confetti filled eggs on each others heads — and it’s quite a scene!

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And, in what has become a Christmas Eve tradition (it was still Christmas Eve when I began this post) on my blog, Ernie Villarreal’s version of the song, Pancho Claus, by Chicano music legend, Eduardo “Lalo” Guerrero.

Pancho Claus

‘Twas the night before Christmas and all through la casa
Not a creature was stirring, Caramba! ¿Que pasa?

Los ninos were all tucked away in their camas,
Some in vestidos and some in pajamas.
While Mama worked late in her little cocina,
El viejo was down at the corner cantina.

The stockings were hanging con mucho cuidado,
In hopes that St. Nicholas would feel obligado
To bring all the children, both buenos y malos,
A Nice batch of dulces and other regalos.

Outside in the yard, there arouse such a grito,
That I jumped to my feet, like a frightened cabrito.

I went to the window and looked out afuera,
And who in the world, do you think que era?

Saint Nick in a sleigh and a big red sombrero
Came dashing along like a crazy bombero!

And pulling his sleigh instead of venados,
Were eight little burros approaching volados.

I watched as they came, and this little hombre
Was shouting and whistling and calling by nombre.

¡Ay, Pancho! ¡Ay, Pepe! ¡Ay, Cuca! ¡Ay, Beto!
¡Ay, Chato! ¡¡Ay, Chopo! ¡Maruca and ¡Nieto!

Then standing erect with his hand on his pecho
He flew to the top of our very own techo.
With his round little belly like a bowl of jalea,
He struggled to squeeze down our old chimenea.

Then huffing and puffing, at last in our sala,
With soot smeared all over his red suit de gala.

He filled the stockings with lovely regalos,
For none of the children had been very malos.

Then chuckling aloud and seeming contento,
He turned like a flash and was gone like the viento.

And I heard him exclaim and this is VERDAD,
Merry Christmas to all, And to All ¡Feliz Navidad!

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Watching the watcher…

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This morning at Noche de Rábanos.

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This morning I walked down to the zócalo to watch artists at work — it’s Noche de Rábanos (Night of the Radishes).   This December 23 “only in Oaxaca” tradition has been a mainstay of the holiday season since 1897.  I know, who would have thought radishes could elicit such creativity?  But, they definitely do!  Here is Adrián Antonio Flores Peña working on his piece, Quebrantahueso (bearded vulture).

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More to come… I just have to weed through the 300+ other photos I took!

UPDATE:  Adrián Antonio Flores Peña won first place in the “Free” (as opposed to “Traditional”) category.

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Last night, just about this time, a posada through the calles of Teotitlán del Valle was arriving at the home where Mary and Joseph would find shelter for the night.  Each night, images of Mary and Joseph wander the streets looking for refuge.  The posadas began on December 15 and will last through December 24, la última posada, and the arrival of Jesus.

Women arriving at the home where Mary & Joseph spent the previous night.

Women and men arrive at the home where Mary and Joseph had spent the previous night.

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Prayers are said in front of the images of Mary and Joseph and then women line up on one side and men on the other, as the procession begins.

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There is a band.  Actually, there are two bands.  The first, at the front of the procession, plays a dirge-like tune and the second, back near the statues of Mary and Joseph, plays marching music (think, John Philip Sousa).

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Naturally, there are fireworks.  These are the pyrotechnic guys, waiting to lead the parade.

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Mary and Joseph en route.  Please note, they are carried by young, and from what I was told, unmarried women.

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Primarily lit by elaborate beeswax velas labradas (carved candles), the procession wound its way through Teotitlán del Valle.

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Through the uneven cobblestone streets, young and old walked for over two hours.  It was massive and it seemed as if the entire village was either in the parade or watching.

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Eventually, we arrived at the home where Mary and Joseph would be given refuge for this night.  There was no mistaking this was the destination — it was lit up like a Christmas tree.

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Inside, there was more religious ritual, but outside, there were sparklers!

(ps)  If anyone has any tips for taking photos of nighttime processions of people under challenging lighting conditions, please feel free to offer your suggestions.  Muchisimas gracias.

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It may be the Winter Solstice, but here in Oaxaca my doors and windows are already open and I’m looking at a clear blue sky and an 85° F  temperature forecast.  Ahhh…

This is about as close as we get to Old Man Winter…

Winter mural

Mural on a wall along Niños Heroes, Oaxaca

Happy Winter Solstice to all in the northern latitudes and happy Summer Solstice to those south of the equator.

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Today is the feast day of Nuestra Señora de la Soledad, the mother, queen, and patron saint of Oaxaqueños.

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If you enter the word “soledad” into a Spanish to English translation program, “solitude” and “loneliness” result.  However, for the past ten days, Our Lady of Solitude hasn’t had much of an opportunity to be lonely.  On December 15, she was taken down from her glass encased niche in the Basílica, that bears her name, and carried out into the fresh air of the church plaza.  On the 16th, she took a road trip through the streets of Oaxaca, stopping to visit several other churches along the route.

The faithful have been coming to honor her.

And, over the past 24 hours, she has been entertained by fireworks, bands, and the ringing of bells.

Food stalls surround her from Morelos to Independencia…

along with vendors of the sacred…

and the profane.

There is even a carnival for the kids.

With crowds, like these…

Nuestra Señora de la Soledad might just be looking forward to returning to the solitude of her glass enclosed niche.  I know I’m looking forward to a quiet night’s sleep!

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