Blogger buddy Chris and I have been talking about returning to Santa María Tlahuitoltepec since our first visit in May 2013. Time flies when you’re having fun and it took the current Theft of a cultural kind controversy to motivate us to hit the long and winding road up into the Mixe. To reach our our journey’s end in the Sierre Norte, our road trip took a little over two and a half hours from the city — on a much improved route 179, I might add.
Reaching the center of town, known for its musical literacy and textiles, Tejas, a youth band, was warming up on the multipurpose municipal basketball court.
Their performance was part of the Domingos de Concierto (concert Sundays). We joined villagers to watch and listen.
Most all of the women “of a certain age” were wearing the traditional dress that is a symbol of this community.
However, our stomachs began grumbling and led us in search of comida. The comedor we had been directed to wasn’t open but there were women sitting under the portales selling tamales. This gal’s amarillo tamales (3 for 10 pesos) were muy sabrosos!
Once we had eaten, fed a couple of street dogs the crumbs (until a woman walking softly and carrying a big stick, chased them away), and our energy levels were restored, we walked across the street to the sextagonal textile kiosk — the day’s destination.
We headed to Artesanias Kojpk Okp, the tiendita of Doña Honorina Gómez Martínez, the embroiderer we had met on our previous visit to Tlahuitoltepec. Ahhh, yes, she was well aware of the Inspiration or plagiarism dispute with French designer, Isabel Marant, that even Vogue UK has covered. As I later discovered, she spoke for the embroiderers at the press conference held at Oaxaca’s Textile Museum ten days ago.
This spirited, strong, and delightful woman has been embroidering for 46 years and, as she explained at the press conference, “my heart tells me what I’m going to embroider because I have it in memory, born with that idea or feeling, experience, it is the daily life as Mixe. It is a representation of blood, food, and nature. ” [translated from the original Spanish]
She recognized us and she and her assistant (husband? son?) were more than willing to plunge into piles of her creations, pull down blusas hanging on the walls, and dismantle displays. Here is the blusa and ceñidore I came home with…
Should you be inclined to go to the source, but can’t manage a trip up into the Mixe, as always, she will have a stall in July at the special artisan market in Oaxaca city during La Guelaguetza. She can also be contacted by telephone: 01 283 596 26 05 and cell: 951 198 79 42.
Stay tuned for a blog post on Oaxaca-The Year After… (Chris has a lot more photos to weed through!)
Mexican Peso Converter
View From Casita Colibrí 