Blogger buddy Chris and I have been talking about returning to Santa María Tlahuitoltepec since our first visit in May 2013. Time flies when you’re having fun and it took the current Theft of a cultural kind controversy to motivate us to hit the long and winding road up into the Mixe. To reach our our journey’s end in the Sierre Norte, our road trip took a little over two and a half hours from the city — on a much improved route 179, I might add.
Reaching the center of town, known for its musical literacy and textiles, Tejas, a youth band, was warming up on the multipurpose municipal basketball court.
Their performance was part of the Domingos de Concierto (concert Sundays). We joined villagers to watch and listen.
Most all of the women “of a certain age” were wearing the traditional dress that is a symbol of this community.
However, our stomachs began grumbling and led us in search of comida. The comedor we had been directed to wasn’t open but there were women sitting under the portales selling tamales. This gal’s amarillo tamales (3 for 10 pesos) were muy sabrosos!
Once we had eaten, fed a couple of street dogs the crumbs (until a woman walking softly and carrying a big stick, chased them away), and our energy levels were restored, we walked across the street to the sextagonal textile kiosk — the day’s destination.
We headed to Artesanias Kojpk Okp, the tiendita of Doña Honorina Gómez Martínez, the embroiderer we had met on our previous visit to Tlahuitoltepec. Ahhh, yes, she was well aware of the Inspiration or plagiarism dispute with French designer, Isabel Marant, that even Vogue UK has covered. As I later discovered, she spoke for the embroiderers at the press conference held at Oaxaca’s Textile Museum ten days ago.
This spirited, strong, and delightful woman has been embroidering for 46 years and, as she explained at the press conference, “my heart tells me what I’m going to embroider because I have it in memory, born with that idea or feeling, experience, it is the daily life as Mixe. It is a representation of blood, food, and nature. ” [translated from the original Spanish]
She recognized us and she and her assistant (husband? son?) were more than willing to plunge into piles of her creations, pull down blusas hanging on the walls, and dismantle displays. Here is the blusa and ceñidore I came home with…
Should you be inclined to go to the source, but can’t manage a trip up into the Mixe, as always, she will have a stall in July at the special artisan market in Oaxaca city during La Guelaguetza. She can also be contacted by telephone: 01 283 596 26 05 and cell: 951 198 79 42.
Stay tuned for a blog post on Oaxaca-The Year After… (Chris has a lot more photos to weed through!)
Mexican Peso Converter
View From Casita Colibrí 
I have been following this story in the news and I a curious how much the artists charge for the blusas when you buy them directly? Do you know where the copies are being made? I wonder if the Mixe would have been willing to take on a contract to sell to the French designers, or would they feel offended?
I paid 600 pesos (about $39 at the current exchange rate) for the blouse and belt. As for the copies, one of the reports I’ve read (can’t remember which) said they were made in India. I can’t speak for the community, but according to reports from the press conference, Marant has been invited to the village.
Lovely. Glad to see contact info. A treasure, for sure.
A treasure for sure! Glad you think posting the contact info is useful. Honorina Gómez Martínez sells at the 3 major artisan ferias in Oaxaca every year.
Hi Shanon – Yes, the story is a bit muddled. I thought that the Mixe were the contractors for these blusas – but were not credited. What is the story actually? We’re they copied somewhere else….?
This original story got a LOT of attention when I posted it on Living Textiles of Mexico. But I’m sure it’s a common practice with the Fashion Industry and very few of the original artisans get credit for their designs or their hand-work.
Hi Sheri. The women in Tlahui had no idea until Susana Harp exposed it. According to this article, , they were made in India! I have no doubt this is a common occurrence in the fashion industry. I’m glad the women of Tlahui have a rich and (relatively) powerful woman to expose this and stand with them.
This article: http://mic.com/articles/121008/this-designer-s-mexican-dress-is-a-lesson-in-cultural-appropriation
That is the kinkiest road I have ever seen! Aren’t you glad you weren’t in the back of a van?
Your new blusa is gorgeous! And you can think of the lady and man every time you wear it.
Glad it was warm on the drive to and from, so I could have the window open and hold on to the window frame. 😉 The new one is for those less than 70º winter cocktail hours, sitting on your terrace!
http://mic.com/articles/121008/this-designer-s-mexican-dress-is-a-lesson-in-cultural-appropriation
They were made in India.
Thanks for the link!
I think my earlier comment is worth repeating here.
The way I see this, no harm has been done to anyone. Tempest in a teapot.
The controversy was started by Susana Harp, neice of Mexican/Oaxacan zillionaire, Alfredo Harp Helú. Whilst in Las Vegas in January she noticed the blouse in question on sale in Neiman Marcus. “Estaba en las Vegas con mi esposo en Neiman Marcus cuando vi el huipil. Al principio me emocioné, porque no sabía que la tienda era sólamente para ropa de diseñador y me pareció maravilloso que vendieran un diseño mixe en un tienda como esa. Cuando me acerqué vi la etiqueta y subí la foto a Twitter.”
Before Susana Harp let them know, the people of Tlahui were unaware. She has since been fanning the flames, convincing the authorities in Tlahui that they should do something about it. All the while keeping her name in the headlines. The most recent evento was the “‘press conference” held at the Oaxaca Textile Museum operated by Susana’s Uncle Alfredo’s Fundación Alfredo Harp Helú. The people of Tlahui are intentionally being embroiled in a controversy not of their own making and which will avail them little.
As Juan Sandoval commented on facebook
I don’t know what to say. Throughout the centuries artists, etc. have been borrowing from other cultures. Artists and graphic designers do it all the time. Even “sacred” mole can be traced to the influence of the spices used in the curries of India and the middle east. Everyone borrows from everyone–this a common truth. In the sciences, research builds upon previous research. Take a look at Mexican folk dance and you will find, that and I can’t recall her name, a choreographer from Mexico City is responsible for the “pineapple dance” and many others considered authentic in Mexico. Just a comment.
[…] I’ve previously written, two separate (and battling) French designers were exposed as plagiarizing the traditional […]
[…] I stopped by to greet Honorina Gómez Martínez from Santa María Tlahuitoltepec, also in the Mixe, and just a few miles up the mountain from […]
Hi, loved the post! Where could I buy the top? I tried the phone but it didn’t work… Thank you! Best, Daniela
Are you in Oaxaca City? I was hoping there would be a Semana Santa artisan market near Santo Domingo, like previous years — Honorina would have been there. Alas, no market this year. ;-( However, in the city, many of the shops that sell traje now carry the traditional blusas from Tlahui. Good luck in your search!
I read the post about Tlahui, and I loved the information and the pictures. Oaxaca has lots of interesting places to visit, but I think Tlahui is definitely calling me. Cheers!
Tlahui is definitely special. 😉