Face the facts…
she’s turned her back on you.
The walls of Oaxaca tell all.
Posted in Creativity, Culture, Travel & Tourism, tagged illustrations, M.W.H., Mexico, Oaxaca, photos, popular travel destinations, street art, urban art, wall art on August 9, 2019| Leave a Comment »
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Exhibitions, Holidays, Travel & Tourism, tagged Carnaval, Carnival, exhibition, Hemoeroteca Néstor Sanchez, library, Los viejos, photos, Putla Villa de Guerrero, recycled plastic, Tiliches on August 6, 2019| 11 Comments »
Remember these guys from my Everyone loves a parade post? They are known as Tiliches (aka, Los viejos, old ones) are a staple in the 3-day celebration of Carnaval in Putla de Guerrero, and a colorful part of the delegation from Putla during La Guelaguetza. Seeing them, it should come as no surprise that “tiliche” can be translated into English to mean junk, stuff, or rag.
Entering this year’s Festival de los Moles at the Jardín Etnobotánico de Oaxaca (Oaxaca Ethnobotanic Garden), guests were greeted by an exhibition of Tiliches — hosted by the newspaper archive, Hemoeroteca Néstor Sanchez.
Viejo de Tiliches – wearing the traditional costume of the Viejos/Tiliches during Carnaval in Putla.
Made of cloth, palm, and gourd with a mask of animal skin, suede gloves, and leather boots. It took one person a week to make.
Viejo Tapitas
Made from plastic water and soda bottle caps and hat of rafia. It took two people 45 days to make for a Carnaval 2018 costume contest in Putla and it weighs 30 kg. (66 lbs.)
Viejo Mecatero
Designed by Ángel Álvarez de Jesús and made from plastic rope, plastic thread, cardboard and silicone. It took seven people 45 days to make for the 2019 costume contest in Putla. It weighs 60 kg. (132 lbs.)
Viejo Azteca
Designed by Amando Herrera Villa and made of palm. It took him two months to make and weighs 15 kg. (33 lbs.)
The creativity here never ceases to amaze me. Unfortunately, the exhibition only ran from July 15 to 30, 2019. What fun it would be to go to Putla for their three day Carnaval celebration — where one can see hundreds of Tiliches dancing though the streets!
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Travel & Tourism, tagged costumes, dancers, Desfile de Delegaciones, folklorico, Guelaguetza, Mexico, mezcal, Oaxaca, Parade of Delegations, photos, traje on July 30, 2019| 2 Comments »
With dancers and props arrived and prepped and streets blocked to traffic, this past Saturday’s second Guelaguetza Desfile de Delegaciones (Parade of Delegations) set off from Calzada Porfirio Díaz to again wind its way through the city’s streets.
Mezcal, pride, and joy were all in abundance!
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Travel & Tourism, tagged dancers, Desfile de Delegaciones, El Jolgorio mezcal, Flor de piña dancer, folkloric dancers, Guelaguetza, marmotas, Mexico, monos, Oaxaca, Parade of Delegations, photos, pineapple dancers, popular travel destinations on July 29, 2019| 2 Comments »
Saturday was a beautiful day for this year’s second Guelaguetza Desfile de Delegaciones. Nothing but sun and blue sky greeted the dancers as they arrived in buses, their large props arrived in trucks, and spectators arrived on foot — as Calzada Porfirio Díaz, north of Niños Heroes was blocked to traffic, except for the aforementioned mentioned official vehicles.
Did I mention, mezcal flowed freely, as dancers fortified themselves and the gathered onlookers? It’s all part of the prep and, by the time the parade began at 6:00 PM sharp, everyone was feeling good and more than ready!
Posted in Animals, Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Food, Travel & Tourism, tagged baskets, canastas, convite, Danza de la Pluma, danzantes, Fiesta de la Preciosa Sangre de Cristo, fireworks, Grupo de Promesa de la Danza de la Pluma 2019-2021, livestock, Mexico, Oaxaca, photos, popular travel destinations, Saint Peter, Taekwondo, Teotitlán del Valle, Tierra Antigua, Tlacolula de Matamoros on July 15, 2019| 2 Comments »
I returned to Teotitlán del Valle late Friday afternoon to view the convite of of unmarried women of the village and Grupo de la Danza de la Pluma 2019-2021 danzantes (dancers) process through town — an invitation to further festivities honoring La Preciosa Sangre de Nuestro Señor Jesucristo. Though that wasn’t the only activity on my agenda; I would be spending the weekend with my amiga K, who was house-sitting for another amiga N. It would be a weekend in the countryside for this city gal!
I arrived late afternoon on Friday…

Canastas (baskets) lined up in front awaiting the procession under the gaze of the sacred mountain, El Picacho.

The convite begins — unmarried women of Teotitlán del Valle carrying the aforementioned canastas (baskets).

After the convite, an early evening encounter with a burro as mi amiga K and I walked to Restaurante y Galería Tierra Antigua .
Saturday…

Breakfast gathering of cocineras (cooks) and friends in the cocina de humo at Restaurante y Galería Tierra Antigua.

Following the Danza de la Pluma, late night watching the toritos, castillo, and fireworks in front of the church.
Sunday…

Off to market day in Tlacolula de Matamoros. The upside down St. Peter encountered in the Señor de Tlacolula chapel.

Returning to Teotitlán del Valle, still life in front of the sacred mountain, El Picacho, seen while walking back to the church in the afternoon.

Final Danza de la Pluma performance in the church atrium at the 2019 Fiesta de la Preciosa Sangre de Cristo.
It was a lively, delicious, and exhausting weekend. Did I mention, I walked an average of 4.5 miles per day? Wouldn’t have missed it for the world! Muchisimas gracias to all who made it an unforgettable weekend!
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Religion, Travel & Tourism, tagged Dance of the Feathers, dancers, Danza de la Pluma, danzantes, Fiesta de la Preciosa Sangre de Cristo, Grupo de Promesa de la Danza de la Pluma 2019-2021, Mexico, Moctezuma, Oaxaca, photos, popular travel destinations, Teotitlán del Valle on July 11, 2019| 5 Comments »
Yesterday, Teotitlán del Valle’s new Grupo de Promesa de la Danza de la Pluma 2019-2021 did battle, not only with Cortes, but also with the wind — which grabbed their penachos/coronas/headdresses like sails, challenging their balance, intricate footwork, and Busby Berkeley-like choreography.

Grasping their penachos/coronas/headdresses, Moctezuma, his warriors, and allied kings kept to their feet
The danzantes of Teotitlán del Valle didn’t miss a step at this most important festival day honoring the patron saint of their village, La Preciosa Sangre de Nuestro Señor Jesucristo. Alas, the wind didn’t bring much needed rain to this agricultural community.
Stay tuned, the festivities continue for another three days.
Posted in Casita Colibrí, Creativity, Culture, People, Travel & Tourism, tagged artesania, decorative gourds, Gabriel Sosa Ortega, jícara, lamps, Mexico, Oaxaca, photos, San Martín Tilcajete on July 5, 2019| 12 Comments »
While Juana was wrapping the branches and trunk of my newly acquired hat stand (my aforementioned decade-in-Oaxaca anniversary present to myself), I wandered around Matlacihua Arte. My eyes and feet kept drawing me to a back corner of the showroom where a lamp, assembled from three intricately carved and painted jícara gourds, beckoned.
It is the work of Gabriel Sosa Ortega, the son of Jesus and Juana. Working in a variety of mediums, Gabriel is one of the up and coming talented young artists being recognized in the state. He was part of the Friends of Oaxacan Folk Art (FOFA) exhibition of young artists at the Museo Estatal de Arte Popular Oaxaca (MEAPO) and he collaborated with Jesus Sosa Calvo (his father) and US-based artist Joe Lewis in a piece for the Bajo la bóveda azul cobalto/Under the Cobalt Blue Sky — an exhibition of international collaboration at the Museo de Arte Contemporáneo de Oaxaca (MACO).
Gabriel’s lamp made me an offer I couldn’t refuse!
Posted in Casita Colibrí, Creativity, Culture, People, Travel & Tourism, tagged artesania, Casita Colibrí, hat stand, Jésus Sosa Calvo, Matlacihua Arte, Mexico, Oaxaca, perchero, photos, San Martín Tilcajete, tree stand, wood carving on July 1, 2019| 23 Comments »
As of today, it has been ten years since I, accompanied by two suitcases and a backpack, arrived to begin making lemonade out of lemons by moving to Oaxaca. And, in case you haven’t guessed, I haven’t regretted it for a minute. Oaxaca, how do I love thee? There are too many ways to count! However, being embraced by the warm and welcoming arms of Oaxaqueños and being surrounded by art, culture, and history are at the top of my list. So, what better way to celebrate the past ten years than to commission a piece of functional art — a hat stand — from the San Martín Tilcaje workshop of Jesus Sosa Calvo.
Sunday, blogger buddy Chris and I pointed his little Jetta towards San Martín Tilcajete to pick it up.
When I discussed the piece with Jesus, my only instructions to him were that he incorporate hummingbirds (colibries, en español) in the design — and he certainly did! (Click on images to enlarge.)
The initial plan had been for the hat rack to reside in my bedroom. However, it was way too beautiful not live near the entrance to Casita Colibrí, for all visitors to see.
Muchisimas gracias to Oaxaca and her people for enriching my life for the past ten years. Here is to many more!!!
Posted in Creativity, Culture, tagged Mexico, Oaxaca, photos, popular travel destinations, stencil art, street art, wall art on June 22, 2019| 2 Comments »
Ahhh… While in el norte, along with Sunday scenes in Tlacolula, I missed sights like this.
Seen on Matamoros between Crespo and Tinoco y Palacios in Oaxaca. Signed by @Mortales333
Posted in Buildings, Creativity, Culture, History, tagged Arturo García Bustos, Government Palace, Mexico, murals, Oaxaca, Palacio de Gobierno, photos, popular travel destinations on June 8, 2019| 4 Comments »
I’ve been in el norte for a month and loving spending time with family and friends, but now dreaming Oaxaca dreams.
From the mural, painted in 1980 by Arturo García Bustos, depicting the history of Oaxaca in Oaxaca’s Palacio de Gobierno (Government Palace).
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Flora, Travel & Tourism, tagged Chiapas, earrings, gourds, indigenous peoples, jícara, jicalpextles, Mexico, murals, Museo Estatal de Arte Popular Oaxaca (MEAPO), Oaxaca, photos, popular travel destinations, Tacuate women, tejate, Zapotec culture on June 6, 2019| 6 Comments »
As previously mentioned, I am currently in el norte. Visiting my family and friends has taken me from Oaxaca to New York, across the country to California, followed by Colorado, and then back to California. I have been on multiple airplanes, traversed through multiple airports, and been complimented multiple times on my earrings. We are not talking gold or silver filigree, we are talking about earrings made from jícara — the fruit of the Crescentia cujete (aka, Calabash tree). [Click on images to enlarge.]
Earrings are not the only things made from the dried fruit of these humble trees that grow in less-than-ideal environments. The Tacuate women of Santa María Zacatepec (Oaxaca) use them as hats.
The gourds are cut in half, washed, and with seeds removed, set out in the sun. Once dry, throughout southern Mexico, they frequently are lacquered, decoratively painted, and used as cups for tejate and other traditional beverages.
As youi can see, in Villa de Zaachila, in the valley of Oaxaca, this use is even celebrated in a Día de Muertos mural.
Larger jícaras, known as jicalpextles, are a specialty of Chiapa de Corzo (Chiapas). However, they have assumed a special role in the Zapotec village of Teotitlán del Valle (Oaxaca), where they are filled with handmade sugar flowers and carried during weddings, religious celebrations, and other important fiestas.
And, recently there was an exhibition of carved jícaras by Salomón Huerta and José Cruz Sánchez from Pinotepa de Don Luis (Oaxaca) at the Museo Estatal de Arte Popular Oaxaca (MEAPO). At last, the talent of the artisans who create these pieces is being given the recognition it deserves and their creations are being appreciated as works of art.
So, hurray for the not-so-humble jícara and the ingenuity and creativity of the indigenous peoples of the world whose traditions teach them to honor and not waste the gifts of planet earth.
Posted in Creativity, Culture, Immigration, Politics, Travel & Tourism, tagged immigration, Lapiztola, Mal de Amor palenque, Mexico, murals, Oaxaca, photos, popular travel destinations, Santiago Matatlán, wall art on June 1, 2019| 5 Comments »
I’m visiting family and friends in el norte and trying not to get caught up in the constant barrage of ignorant, disgraceful, and infuriating news coming out of Washington D.C. However, sometimes it can’t be ignored.
This is all I have to say…

(If you don’t know and can’t figure out what “pendejo” translates to in English, click HERE.)
Another mural by Lapiztola on the side of the Palenque Mal de Amor outside Santiago Matatlán.
Posted in Creativity, Culture, Travel & Tourism, tagged Black and white photography, Fabián Calderón Sánchez, mural, Oaxaca, Sanez, street art, Villa de Zaachila, wall art, YNKL, Zapotec culture on May 28, 2019| 4 Comments »
From the land of Zaachila yoo (house of Zaachila)…
Villa de Zaachila pride in black and white by YNKL/Sanez.
Posted in Creativity, Culture, Travel & Tourism, tagged graffiti, Mexico, murals, Oaxaca, photos, popular travel destinations, street art, wall art on May 21, 2019| Leave a Comment »
Within a few blocks from home…
Miscellaneous messaging brought to you by the streets of Oaxaca.
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Exhibitions, Travel & Tourism, tagged batik, color blue, Día Internacional de los Museos, exhibitions, indigo, International Council of Museums (ICOM), International Museum Day, Intervención Índigo, Mexico, Museo Textil de Oaxaca, Oaxaca, photos, Textile Museum of Oaxaca on May 17, 2019| 2 Comments »
May 18 is Día Internacional de los Museos (International Museum Day). Instituted in 1977 by the International Council of Museums (ICOM), the goal is to raise awareness of the role museums play in “cultural exchange, enrichment of cultures and development of mutual understanding, cooperation and peace among peoples.” Traditionally, the primary mission of museums has been collecting, conservation, communication, research, and exhibition. However, according to the ICOM:
Museums have transformed their practices to remain closer to the communities they serve. Today they look for innovative ways to tackle contemporary social issues and conflict. By acting locally, museums can also advocate and mitigate global problems, striving to meet the challenges of today’s society proactively. As institutions at the heart of society, museums have the power to establish dialogue between cultures, to build bridges for a peaceful world and to define a sustainable future.
The museums of Oaxaca seem to have embraced this expanding and dynamic role — exemplified by this past winter’s exhibition at the Museo Textil de Oaxaca, Intervención Índigo, created by Laura Anderson Barbata, in collaboration with The Brooklyn Jumbies, Chris Walker, and Jarana Beat.
Performance and textiles meld the Zancudos (stilt walkers) of Zaachila, Oaxaca with the Afromexicano devil dance of Guerrero, the color indigo (a natural dye important to indigenous cultures in both Mexico and Africa), batik and beading techniques of Africa, with political commentary about the realpolitik of the African diaspora in North America.
Indigo is one of the oldest natural plant based dyes, used all over the world and ritually embedded with symbolism and spirituality; power and nobility…. Barbata employs textiles hand woven and dyed in Burkina Faso,Guatemala and the United States. The color historically represents absolute truth, wisdom, justice, and responsibility.
So, get thee to a museum near you — you will, no doubt, be enriched, enlightened, and maybe even empowered.