Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Exhibitions, Holidays, Travel & Tourism, tagged Francisco Toledo, Mexico, Navidad, Night of the Radishes, Noche de Rabanos, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, Señor del Rayo, Zeny Fuentes on December 23, 2017| Leave a Comment »
I think I spied some familiar figures in the radishes at this year’s Noche de Rabanos. Could this be carver, Zeny Fuentes?
“Alebrijes de San Martín Tilcajete” by Sergio Luís Raymundo Sánchez
Oaxaqueños can tell you, this is their own, Señor del Rayo.
“Señor del Rayo” by Gabriela Nayelly López Vásquez
And then there is this guy. I’m guessing Maestro Francisco Toledo.
“Oaxaca de mis amores” by Omar Díaz Ventura
What do you think?
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Exhibitions, Holidays, Travel & Tourism, tagged Christmas, Mexico, Navidad, Night of the Radishes, Noche de Rabanos, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations on December 22, 2017| 6 Comments »
The 120th edition of the “only in Oaxaca” Noche de Rábanos is coming. Tomorrow (December 23) the zócalo will be filled with radishes carved into religious, cultural, and fantastical creations.
Scenes from last year…
And, it’s not just a night of radishes, there will also be flor inmortal (a type of dried flower) and totomoxtle (corn husk) artisan creations on display and competing for prizes. Not to be missed!
Posted in Celebrations, Churches, Culture, Holidays, Religion, Travel & Tourism, tagged Basilica de la Soledad, Cuadrilla de Mascaritas de Nochixtlán, dance, Oaxaca, Patrona de los Oaxaqueños, photographs, photos, Plaza de la Danza, popular travel destinations, Queen of Oaxaca, Virgen de La Soledad, Virgin of Solitude on December 19, 2017| 9 Comments »
All is quiet now, but for the last few days (and nights!) there has been no solitude for Soledad, or her neighbors (of which I am one). For several days leading up to December 18, the feast day of the Queen of Oaxaca, La Santísima Virgen de La Soledad (Virgin of Solitude), Oaxaca has been celebrating. For those unaware of this virgencita, Soledad is adored and venerated in a manner similar to the Virgin of Guadalupe and is carried through the streets of Oaxaca (both city and state) during many religious celebrations.
Basílica de Nuestra Señora de la Soledad
She resides in the church dedicated to her, the Basílica de Nuestra Señora de la Soledad. Designed by Father Fernando Méndez, construction began in 1682, it was sanctioned by the Viceroy Tomas Aquino Manrique de la Cerda, and consecrated in 1690 by Bishop Isidro Siraña y Cuenca.
Castillo spelling out, “Viva La Virgen de la Soledad” (Long live the Virgin of Solitude) and “Nuestra Senora de Oaxaca” (Our Lady of Oaxaca).
Being that this is Mexico and Catholicism is tempered (enriched) with indigenous practice, the night of December 17, after religious rites and rituals were performed at said Basilica, there were fireworks in the church atrium, including toritos and a castillo, in honor of La Reina de Oaxaca. Despite the late hour, I managed to leave the comfort of my rooftop and head over to the Plaza de la Danza to watch — and they were spectacular, as always.
Many of the faithful spent the night in the Basilica’s atrium.
Alas, I didn’t have any energy left to stay and hear the Universidad Autónoma Benito Juárez de Oaxaca (Benito Juárez Autonomous University of Oaxaca) Tuna band serenade Soledad with a concert inside the Basilica at midnight. Silly me! I was dozing off to sleep at midnight when the Basilica’s bells began chiming furiously and cohetes (rockets) sounded and I woke with a start. Next year, I’m staying up!
Prayers before the La Virgen de la Soledad.
Sleep finally returned, only to be interrupted about 4:15 AM with more cohetes and a band and then again around 6:30 AM. Needless to say, I gave up on sleep and got up. All during the night La Virgen was not alone. The faithful, coming from near and far, spent the night in the atrium of the church, food stalls set up on the stairs leading down to the church fed one and all, and live music entertained her all night long.
The ever-present vendors selling flowers to the faithful.
Like most, her story has several versions. According to one legend, in 1620 a mule train bound for Guatemala camped outside the city of Oaxaca, discovered an extra mule which did not belong to anyone in the group. The mule refused to move and when prodded rolled over and died. When the pack it carried was opened, it was found to contain the statue of La Virgen de la Soledad. Taking this as a sign from heaven, the inhabitants built a shrine, later a church, and finally the imposing Basilica.
Food vendors lined the stairs down to the Basilica’s atrium.
In another story, a muleteer from Veracruz, en route to Guatemala, noticed he had one too many mules in his pack upon his arrival in Oaxaca. Outside the San Sebastian hermitage, the mule collapsed under the burden it was carrying. All attempts by the muleteer to get it back on its feet were futile; to avoid punishment, he notified the authorities. When he lifted the load off the mule, it got up but then immediate died. The burden was inspected and an image of the Virgin, accompanied by Christ, along with a sign that said, “The Virgin by the Cross.” Faced with this momentous event, Bishop Bartolome Bohorquez ordered a sanctuary to be built in honor of the divinity.
La Santísima Virgen de La Soledad inside the Basilica wearing her gold, diamond, and pearl encrusted vestments.
Still another legend: a heavily laden burro of mysterious origin appeared outside of town in 1534, fell to the ground, spilling its load next to a rock (still on-site) containing the beautifully carved Virgin (thought to be carved in Guatemala or the Philippines) and a chapel was built on the spot. However, apparently there was an adobe shrine to the Virgin of Solitude atop Cerro Fortín as early as 1532 — and the rock may have even been moved from the mountain in 1617 to the current site (immediately to the right as you enter the Basilica).
La Santísima Virgen de La Soledad (body double) under the tree in the atrium of the Basilica — wearing the traveling attire.
Her vestments are encrusted with pearls and 600 diamonds — and she wears a 4-lb gold crown. As all that bling is quite heavy and valuable, she has a body double who wears a velvet mantle and crown that aren’t quite so ostentatious. It is she who is carried through the streets during processions and has been residing in the church atrium during the festivities in her honor.
All was not completely serious yesterday at the Basilica — there was also entertainment. In the late afternoon, Soledad was treated to a command performance by the Cuadrilla de Mascaritas from Asunción Nochixtlán, in the Mixteca. I had never seen nor heard of this dance before. According to this article (in Spanish), in 1865, a year after the defeat of the Franco-Austrian army at Las Tres Cruces (between Santo Domingo Yanhuitlán and Asunción Nochixtlán) by the joint forces of the Mixtecs and General Porfirio Diáz, Mixtecos commemorated the victory with the mascaritas dance, which ridiculed the supposedly invincible enemy. I learn something new every day!
Posted in Celebrations, Churches, Culture, Holidays, Religion, Travel & Tourism, tagged angels, Basilica de la Soledad, calenda, Mexico, Nuestra Señora de la Soledad, Oaxaca, parade, Patrona de los Oaxaqueños, photographs, photos, Plaza de la Danza, popular travel destinations, Queen of Oaxaca, Virgen de La Soledad, Virgin of Solitude on December 16, 2017| 2 Comments »
Tonight, the streets of Oaxaca are alive with the sound of music and cohetes (rockets) as a calenda (parade) in honor of Nuestra Señora de la Soledad (Our Lady of Solitude) celebrates the approach of the feast day of the mother, queen, and patroness of Oaxaca.
A young Soledad making the rounds on a float.
Accompanied by an angel.
Monos taking a break in front of the Basilica de la Soledad.
There will be no solitude for Soledad during the next couple of days and nights. If you don’t believe me, check out her festival schedule.
Posted in Celebrations, Children, Culture, Holidays, Religion, Travel & Tourism, tagged children, convite, Juan Diego, Mexico, Oaxaca, parades, photographs, photos, procession, Teotitlán del Valle, Virgin of Guadalupe on December 14, 2017| 6 Comments »
In Teotitlán del Valle, waiting for last Sunday’s convite, honoring the Virgen de Guadalupe, to begin.
Watching and waiting from the best seat in the house!
Waiting to process in the traditional red wool skirt and embroidered blouse.
Little boys waiting to lead off the procession.
Even a couple of little Juan Diego’s were ready and waiting.
The patience of the people of Oaxaca, even the kids, never ceases to amaze me.
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Holidays, Travel & Tourism, tagged baby Jesus, Christmas, Christmas lights, Christmas tree, decorations, flor inmortal, Mexico, Navidad, Oaxaca, photographs, photos on December 7, 2017| 1 Comment »
Artificial Christmas tree vying for top honors with an Indian laurel on the Alameda.
Baby Jesús wearing his flor inmortal diapers in the courtyard between Del Maguey and Los Baúles de Juana Cata.
“Star of wonder, star of light” above Amate Books on the Alcalá.
And, yes, the sky really was that blue today.
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Holidays, Travel & Tourism, tagged Basilica de la Soledad, cemetery, Coco movie, Day of the Dead, Día de los Muertos, Mexico, Oaxaca, panteón, photographs, photos, San Antonino Castillo Velasco, skulls, Tlacolula de Matamoros on November 25, 2017| 15 Comments »
For anyone who still wonders why in the world I have chosen to live in and thrive in Oaxaca, go see the latest Pixar movie, Coco.
Entrance to the Panteón de Xochimilco, Oaxaca – Oct. 31, 2017
The filmmakers “based the Rivera family — a multigenerational matriarchy headed by Miguel’s formidable abuelita, or grandmother — on real-world families with whom they embedded while visiting the Mexican states of Oaxaca and Guanajuato between 2011 and 2013.” (How Pixar Made Sure ‘Coco’ Was Culturally Conscious)
Panteón in San Antonino Castillo Velasco, Oaxaca – Nov. 4, 2017
From the elaborately embroidered blouses and animated fantastical alebrije to the cemeteries and “life” of Día de los Muertos, Oaxaca provided an inspiration for the film. (Coco, la nueva película de Disney-Pixar inspirada en Oaxaca)
Panteón San Antonino Castillo Velasco, Oaxaca – Nov. 4, 2017
It is the music and messiness, color and cacophony, and finding joy in just being.
Panteón San Antonino Castillo Velasco, Oaxaca – Nov. 4, 2017
“We absorbed details in every place that we visited, but the most valuable thing was the time we spent with Mexican families.” (How Coco’s Directors Celebrated the Film’s Mexican Heritage)
Ofrenda display in the Biblioteca Pública Central de Oaxaca Margarita Maza de Juárez – Oct. 31, 2017
It is the Oaxaca of fiestas, street dogs, and papel picado.
Papel picado projected on the Basilica de Nuestra Señora de la Soledad, Oaxaca – Oct. 30, 2017
Above all, it is about the importance of family, living and dead…
Public ofrenda in the atrium of the Catedral de Nuestra Señora de la Asunción, Oaxaca – Oct. 31, 2017
“With all of its music and folklore and artwork, and the story itself, audiences so far feel Coco respects their families, living and remembered.” (Mexico, Music And Family Take Center Stage In ‘Coco’)
Panteón Municipal de Tlacolula de Matamoros, Oaxaca – Nov. 1, 2017
And, respect for one’s heritage and traditions.
Panteón San Antonino Castillo Velasco, Oaxaca – Nov. 4, 2017
This is the Oaxaca I fell in love with and treasure.
Panteón San Antonino Castillo Velasco, Oaxaca – Nov. 4, 2017
This is the Oaxaca that captured by heart, daily enriches my life, and I call home.
Posted in Celebrations, Culture, Religion, Travel & Tourism, tagged bands, calenda, Chinas Oaxaqueñas, dancers, festivals, Mexico, monos, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, Saint Cecilia, Santa Cecilia on November 21, 2017| Leave a Comment »
In Oaxaca, the sound of rockets and music in the streets means there must be a calenda — and early last evening, one seemed to be only a few blocks away.
It was the ideal excuse for putting off emptying my massive wooden kitchen counter for the termite extermination crew’s arrival the next morning.
To what, or who, did I owe this timely interruption? Saint Cecilia! November 22 is her feast day and, at least in Mexico, festivals to the saints aren’t just one day events — hence yesterday’s mass at Iglesia de San Felipe Neri, followed by the calenda.
And, by the way, Santa Cecilia isn’t just any saint, she is the patrona de los músicos (patron of musicians) and so, of course, there were two bands playing in the church atrium.
Alas, though the party was only just getting started, given the chore that awaited me at home, I forced myself to leave after a half and hour. However there is more on Santa Cecilia’s dance card today and tomorrow…
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Holidays, Travel & Tourism, tagged Black and white photography, comparsa, Day of the Dead, Día de los Muertos, Día de Muertos, face painting, Magna Comparsa Oaxaca 2017, Mexico, muerteada, Oaxaca, photographs, photos on November 12, 2017| 2 Comments »
Looking back, in black and white…
Magna Comparsa Oaxaca through the streets of the city on October 28, 2017.
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, food festival, Holidays, Religion, Travel & Tourism, tagged day of the dead bread, Feria del Pan y el Chocolate, Mexico, Oaxaca, ofrenda, pan de muerto, photographs, photos, San Pablo Villa de Mitla, Teotitlán del Valle, Tlacolula de Matamoros, Villa Díaz Ordaz on November 4, 2017| 2 Comments »
When Día de Muertos approaches, the panaderías (bakeries) work overtime to fill their shelves and counters with Pan de Muertos — an egg based bread, sometimes elaborately decorated, but always with a cabecita (also known as a muñeca), a little painted flour dough head, at the top.
The most intricately decorated bread comes from Mitla. For a few years, Mitla held a Pan de Muertos fair and competition, with prizes for decoration. Alas, because their bread is in such demand, the feria was halted two years ago as the bakers put a priority on attending to their customers needs — this is their livelihood, after all!
However, the small pueblo, Villa Díaz Ordaz picked up the slack and last year began holding a Festival del Pan de Muertos. The village is off the beaten path and the festival hasn’t yet drawn much in the way of tourism, but it’s a wonderful event that blogger buddy Chris and I love attending (See his post, here). Among other things, the event is encouraging and passing along to the younger generation knowledge and pride in the traditions and skills of their community. And, in my book, that is a good thing!
Oaxaca city has also gotten into the Pan de Muertos promotion act. A 6-day Feria del Pan y el Chocolate was held at the Jardín Carbajal. One could talk to knowledgeable vendors eager to share their passion, buy bread and chocolate to take home, or just take break from the busyness of this time of year, to sit in the shade of the umbrellas dipping the pan into hot chocolate. Yummm…
Why all this bread? To place on one’s own ofrenda and to take to the ofrendas of relatives and extended family — its essence to nourish the difuntos (departed) when they come for their annual visit.
Pan de Muertos on the altar of the chapel in the panteón in Teotitlán del Valle – November 1, 2017
It is a time of year when the difuntos also nourish the souls of the living.
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Religion, Travel & Tourism, tagged Day of the Dead, Día de los Muertos, Día de Muertos, Mexico, Nuestra Señora de la Soledad, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, sand paintings, tapetes de arena, Virgen de Guadalupe, Virgen de Juquila, Virgen del Carmen, Virgen del Rosario, Virgen Dolorosa on October 31, 2017| Leave a Comment »
Tapetes de arena (rugs of sand) are a traditional feature of the celebration in Oaxaca of Día de Muertos. When I first arrived to live here, they were drawn in front of the Cathedral. Next, they moved for a year or two to the Government Palace and for the last several years they have graced the Plaza de la Danza. This year’s offerings were the work of twelve artisans and feature the most beloved and revered of the Jesús and María señores y señoras in Oaxaca. This post will highlight the ladies…
Virgen Dolorosa — Our Lady of Sorrows
Virgen del Carmen — Our Lady of Mount Carmel
Sra. Virgen del Rosario — Our Lady of the Rosary
Interestingly, in previous years the themes of the sand paintings in these public spaces have been Día de Muertos related. I’m not sure of why the change this year to religious imagery. Indigenous Day of the Dead celebrations pre-date the arrival of the Spanish and the All Saints Day of the Catholic church. And in Oaxaca, one of the most indigenous states in Mexico, as Shawn D. Haley points out in his book, Day of the Dead: When Two Worlds Meet in Oaxaca, “there is little of the Spanish influence to be found in the Oaxacan Day of the Dead. The Spanish version… is bleak and dismal…. For the Oaxaqueñans, these days are… joyous and exuberant. It is not a mourning of lost loved ones, but a celebration, a reunion with the dead.”
Santa María de Guadalupe — Our Lady of Guadalupe
Nuestra Señora de la Solidad — Our Lady of Solitude
Inmaculada Concepción de Juquila — Virgin of Juquila
For more of these sand paintings, check out the recent post by blogger buddy Chris. By the way, the feast days for these last three señoras are coming up in December. First on the calendar is Juquila on December 8, then comes Guadalupe on December 12, and, finally, Oaxaca’s patron saint, Soledad on December 18. There will be special masses, processions, and rockets. December is a noisy month!
But first, we must welcome the difuntos (departed) who begin arriving tonight.
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Travel & Tourism, tagged Catrinas, comparsa, dancers, Day of the Dead, Día de los Muertos, face painting, Magna Comparsa Oaxaca 2017, Mexico, muerteada, Oaxaca, photographs, photos on October 29, 2017| 2 Comments »
Last night, throughout the streets of the city, the living began welcoming the dead.
Like the Guelaguetza desfile of delegations, Oaxaqueños and tourists (foreign and domestic) crowded the sidewalks along the Magna Comparsa Oaxaca 2017 route — from the Cruz de Piedra, down García Vigil, left on Allende, right on Macedonio Alcalá, right on Independencia, and into the Alameda.
With bands leading the way, catrinas in regional dress and dancers in traditional muerteada attire whirled and twirled, high-stepped and jumped, and moved and grooved their way through the streets.
With earthquakes and hurricanes and now the resumption of the zócalo plantón (occupation) and bloqueos (blocades) of roads into and out of the city by Sección XXII of the teachers’ union and their allies, Oaxaca and Oaxaqueños needed to party-down in joyous abandon — and they did!
Día de Muertos observances are different in the indigenous villages — the mood is more formal and each village has customs and rituals that tradition dictates must be followed. But the bottom line in ciudad and pueblo is to provide a welcome worthy of both the living and the dead. The celebrations have only just begun…
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Holidays, Travel & Tourism, tagged calacas, Catrinas, Day of the Dead, Día de los Muertos, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, skeletons on October 26, 2017| Leave a Comment »
Calacas dressed for work and catrinas dressed to the nines, for my skeleton-loving grandson.
From the sidewalks, courtyards, and balconies of Oaxaca, October 2017 — ready for the Day of the Dead.
Posted in Celebrations, Churches, Culture, Religion, Travel & Tourism, tagged calenda, castillo, Catedral de Oaxaca, China Oaxaqueñas, dancers, estandartes, fireworks, La catedral de Nuestra Señora de la Asunción, Mexico, Oaxaca, parade, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, religious banners, Señor del Rayo on October 23, 2017| 3 Comments »
Today is the culmination of the ten days of festivities celebrating El Señor del Rayo — an only-in-Oaxaca observance. Early Saturday evening, on my way to an event at the Museo Textil, I ran into a calenda (parade) of his. I was going in the opposite direction and felt like I was swimming upstream. What to do? Stop, take a few photos, and enjoy the music and dancing until it passed by, of course!
El Señor del Rayo is a wood-carved Christ on the Cross figure that was brought from Spain in the 16th century, a gift to Oaxaca from Charles V. The image was placed in the temple of San Juan de Dios, a church with adobe walls and a straw (or possibly wood) roof. According to religious lore, lightning struck the church and everything was destroyed, save for this figurine. A miracle! The statue became known as El Señor del Rayo (the Lord of Lightning), was given his own chapel (the furthest capilla from the main entrance on the left) in the newly built Catedral de Nuestra Señora de la Asunción, and has been much venerated ever since.
El Señor has a body double as the original, given it’s importance and value, remains behind glass in his chapel (first photo above). Today, the line of faithful waiting to worship him stretched into the aisle leading to his chapel. Restoration work was done on his replica earlier this year, but it is back on the main altar and available to travel through the streets during this afternoon’s procession, along with the estandartes (religious banners) currently leaning up against the inner walls of the Cathedral.
Tonight, like all good Oaxaca celebrations, be they religious or secular, there will be pirotécnicos — fireworks and all things pyrotechnic, including a castillo. For the uninitiated, a castillo is a multi-story erector set like structure with moving parts that is wired with colorful explosive charges. Another noisy night in Oaxaca!
By the way, in previous years, the inside of the Cathedral was festooned from bottom to top with lilies — greeting all who enter with Divine beauty and fragrance. However, this year there are many fewer floral decorations and no lilies. I’m wondering if the lily-growing region was affected by the hurricanes and/or earthquakes….
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Holidays, Travel & Tourism, tagged calacas, Day of the Dead, Día de Muertos, Mexico, murals, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, skeletons street art, Villa de Zaachila, wall art on October 14, 2017| 2 Comments »
Día de Muertos is coming…
That means the departed will soon return to eat, drink, and be merry with their living loved ones.
Due to earthquake damage the Panteón General in the city is closed, but the traditional evening of the dead will take place at the Panteón Xochimilco.
As the schedule of over 100 cultural activities (between October 28 and November 4) states, despite earthquakes and hurricanes, “Oaxaca is more alive than ever!”
Mexican Peso Converter
View From Casita Colibrí 