Need a facelift?
Apparently, Casa Oaxaca and neighbor, Galeria Quetzalli, both do.
You might want to consider these guys.
They work hard.
And, all work is done with care and by hand!
Posted in Buildings, Labor, Restaurants, tagged building renovation, Casa Oaxaca, cement mixing, construction workers, Galeria Quetzalli, labor, laborers, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, workers on August 28, 2012| 4 Comments »
Need a facelift?
Apparently, Casa Oaxaca and neighbor, Galeria Quetzalli, both do.
You might want to consider these guys.
They work hard.
And, all work is done with care and by hand!
Posted in Buildings, Creativity, Culture, Politics, tagged Lapiztola, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, street art, urban art, wall art on August 27, 2012| 1 Comment »
Posted in Buildings, Churches, Travel & Tourism, Weather, tagged African Tulip trees, Basilica de la Soledad, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, rainy season, Templo de San José, travel, tropical storm, weather on August 25, 2012| 2 Comments »
Oh, what a beautiful morning it was!
What a difference 10 hours makes.
Moisture from Tropical Storm Isaac being drawn across Oaxaca. That’s the way the rainy season goes!
Posted in Buildings, Geography, History, Markets, tagged Calle Flores Magón, Calle Las Casas, historical photographs, La Lagunilla, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, street scene on August 21, 2012| 6 Comments »
Several days ago, Susan McGlynn of the Insider’s Guide to Oaxaca posted this photo on the Insider’s Facebook page, with the question, “Oaxaca in the 1940s or maybe 50s?. DO YOU KNOW WHICH CORNER OF OAXACA THIS IS???”
The architecture looked very familiar and then there were those trees in the distance… I was pretty sure I knew which corner this was, so off the camera and I went.
It’s looking north on Flores Magón at the intersection of Las Casas. That’s the Government Palace in front of the trees of the zócalo at the end of the street. Outside the shot and to the left of the cars in the foreground is Mercado Benito Juárez. Perhaps all is a little clearer in color…
That cinnamon colored building in the foreground is the Trebol Hotel and the single-story white building next to the Government Palace is La Lagunilla, which must have been in business when the original photograph was taken, as the sign says it was founded in 1921.
This was fun!
Posted in Buildings, Creativity, Culture, People, Travel & Tourism, tagged Centro Académico y Cultural San Pablo, Francisco Toledo, iron gates, Mexico, Oaxaca, photo, photographs, travel, video on July 17, 2012| 1 Comment »
Intricately designed and executed iron gates have been installed at either end of Antiguo Callejón de San Pablo, ushering visitors into the “Old meets new” grounds of the Centro Académico y Cultural San Pablo.
Oaxaca’s favorite son and Mexico’s foremost living artist, Francisco Toledo, narrates a video documenting the construction of the gates. It’s in Spanish, but even if you don’t understand the language, it’s worth watching, anyway.
By the way, today is Toledo’s 70th birthday. ¡Feliz cumpleaños, maestro!
Posted in Buildings, Churches, Gardens, Weather, tagged African Tulip trees, Casita Colibrí, garden, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, Templo de San José on July 4, 2012| 4 Comments »
Late yesterday afternoon; outdoor room (aka: my terrace) with a view. Ahhhhh….
And, despite the clouds above, this morning I can report, no rain for 36 hours!
Posted in Buildings, Food, Markets, tagged grocery shopping, markets, Mercado IV Centenario, mercados, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, renovation on June 30, 2012| 3 Comments »
One of the pleasures of living here, is grocery shopping at the traditional mercados. As the map from my local Mercado IV Centenario shows, the variety of items sold rivals any US supermarket chain.
The freshness and quality far exceeds anything the chains have to offer and you can’t beat the personal attention.
There is something comforting about being recognized and greeted by favorite vendors and gratifying about purchasing tamales proudly sold by the loving hands that made them.
However, on May 14, 2012, Mercado IV Centenario, operated by the municipio of Oaxaca de Juárez, began a much-needed major renovation. The doors have been locked…
and demolition has begun.
According to a May 25th article, the project includes a new roof and bathrooms, waterproofing, installing tile floors, interior and exterior painting, and rehabilitation of the water, sanitation, and electrical systems. In addition, an access door on the busy avenida Independencia will be constructed.
For the duration of the renovation, the merchants and their stalls have been relocated under a big blue tent in Jardín Morelos on Independencia, across from the chain supermarket, Soriana. Rather than hurting business, the vendors report sales have increased at the temporary site and are hoping to bring the new customers along when they move into the newly renovated Mercado IV Centenario.
Posted in Buildings, Food, Markets, Parks & Plazas, Places, Sports, Sports & Recreation, tagged boxing, Boxing ring, Jardín Morelos, market, Mercado IV Centenario, mercados, Mexico, Oaxaca, parks, Plaza de la Danza, renovation project on June 24, 2012| Leave a Comment »
Last night, under starry skies, I returned to Casita Colibrí. The streets were wet and potholed (more than usual) and even in the dark, my garden looked green and lush, all thanks to the rains Hurricane Carlotta brought and a storm track that continues to have Oaxaca in its sights.
After a verrry slow morning spent renewing my apartment’s acquaintance (remember, no TP in the toilet), gazing at the view, and unpacking, armed with two shopping bags, I headed down to Mercado IV Centenario (my local mercado) for some much-needed restocking, only to find doors locked. Ooops! I’d forgotten, as of mid May it was temporarily relocated to Jardín Morelos, due to a long overdue renovation project. So, down the stairs and across Independencia to the new site, I went. How nice it was to see the familiar faces of my favorite vendors and what warm greetings I received. Ahhh… it’s good to be back!
The route home took me up through the Plaza de la Danza. And, what to my wondering eyes did appear? A boxing ring, boxing fans, and a boxing match in progress. Darn, I neglected to bring my camera. Hey, it was just supposed to be a grocery shopping trip! However, this from my iPod Touch camera.
Concerts, dance exhibitions, fireworks staging site, ferias and now boxing in the Plaza de la Danza. As I’ve said, the public spaces in Oaxaca are well used!
Posted in Buildings, Creativity, Culture, tagged 142 Throckmorton, California, first day of summer, graffiti, Mexico, Mill Valley, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, street art, travel, wall art, Zio Ziegler on June 20, 2012| Leave a Comment »
Wanna see me pull a rabbit out of my hat?
Happy first day of summer.
From the walls of Oaxaca…
To the walls of Mill Valley…

by artist, Zio Zieler
Posted in Buildings, Food, Gardens, Parks & Plazas, Renovation, tagged frozen dessert, ice cream, Jardín Sócrates, Mexico, Nevería Malena, neveria, nieves, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, public spaces, renovation, Socrates Garden on June 2, 2012| 2 Comments »
On my first visit to Oaxaca, I was introduced to Jardín Sócrates, part of the Templo de la Soledad/Plaza de la Danza complex, between Independencia and Morelos. The original Jardín Sócrates was constructed as a public garden in 1881 and remodeled for its 100th birthday.
I have a weakness for ice cream, sherbet, and gelato and, thus, was completely “in heaven” being surrounded by stands selling the most amazing flavors of milk and water based frozen desserts.
Everyone has their favorite vendor, my friend G was partial to Nevería Malena, and so we sat down at one of their yellow and white iron tables.
It was SO hard to decide what to order; being tempted by too many choices and being mystified by what many of the flavors actually were.
What in the world is Beso de Angel? I settled on a scoop of Leche Quemada (burnt milk) with a scoop of Tuna (fruit of the nopal cactus NOT the fish) on top. I was hooked!
As it worked out, two years later I moved into an apartment only a block away and I pass by Jardín Sócrates at least a couple of times a week. However, in mid October 2011, carpenters began constructing wooden puestos along Independencía below the Jardín. Ready for a feria? I wondered. Then they were painted! These took on a semi-permanent character. Hmmm…
Soon, a sign went up explaining the Jardín Sócrates was undergoing an “image enhancement,” courtesy of the federal and municipal governments.
Demolition soon began, including the removal of the original green cantera (stone) pavement.
And, the neverías began moving down to the temporary puestos on Independencia. I found Nevería Malena, ordered my usual, and asked how long the relocation was going to last. “No sé.” (“Don’t know.”) was the answer.
Eight new stalls were constructed, the cantera was replaced with red terracotta tile, and new tables, chairs, and umbrellas materialized. After five months, the newly “enhanced” Jardín Sócrates opened on March 29, 2012.
It does look lovely — orderly and coordinated — but I kind of miss the color and funkiness of the old.
Posted in Buildings, tagged abandoned buildings, buildings, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, rubble on May 28, 2012| 3 Comments »
It may look like a dilapidated building on the outside, but you never know what lies behind those walls.
Sometimes, when the timing is right the massive iron gates are opened to let the residents pass in or out, one catches a glimpse of a courtyard filled with lush tropical plants, splashes of bright colors, a stone pathway winding its way through a garden, and often a burbling fountain to block the sounds of the city.
Other times, what lies beyond, is nothing more than as advertised! But, beautiful in its own way…
Posted in Buildings, Churches, Parks & Plazas, Places, tagged Gurrion, Jardín del Pañuelito, Little Hankerchief Garden, Mexico, movie set, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, public spaces, Templo de Santo Domingo de Guzmán, wedding procession on May 21, 2012| 3 Comments »
The public spaces of Oaxaca are well-used. The cobblestone-paved Jardín del Pañuelito (Little Handkerchief Garden), that borders the south side of the Templo de Santo Domingo de Guzmán, complex is no exception.
Especially on Saturdays, when it is often used for wedding processions…
Occasionally, it is converted into a conference venue…
Frequently, a stage is set up and a concert ensues…
And, last year it was transformed into a movie set!
Posted in Buildings, Creativity, Religion, Signs, tagged Basilica de la Soledad, graffiti, Mexico, Oaxaca, wall art on May 18, 2012| 1 Comment »
Posted in Buildings, Celebrations, Culture, Exhibitions, Travel & Tourism, tagged Contemporary Art Museum of Oaxaca, MACO, Mexico, Museo de Arte Contemporáneo de Oaxaca, numbers, Oaxaca, photographs, photos on May 4, 2012| 2 Comments »
A belated Happy 20th Birthday, Museo de Arte Contemporáneo de Oaxaca!
As the theme of the birthday celebration on February 28th said, Say ‘Coma’ Twenty Times,
COMA, COMA, CO-MACO, MACO, MACO…
Come say, Feliz Cumpleaños MACO, in person!
Posted in Buildings, Celebrations, Churches, Holidays, tagged Carmen Abajo, Carmen Alto, Cathedral, Christianity, full moon, Holy Week, Jueves Santo, La catedral de Nuestra Señora de la Asunción, Maundy Thursday, Mexico, Oaxaca, pan bendito, photo, photographs, Preciosa Sangre de Cristo Templo, religion, Santo Domingo, Semana Santa, Templo de la Compañía de Jesus, Templo de San Felipe Neri, Templo de San José on April 6, 2012| 1 Comment »
Yesterday, under a full moon…
and clutching our “pan bendito” (blessed bread), we began our pilgrimage. Jueves Santo (Holy/Maundy Thursday) tradition calls for visiting 7 churches (la visita de las siete casas) in the city with one’s pan bendito, which must be kept to offer to guests, should any grace our doorstep. This all relates back to Jesus’s Last Supper, which this date commemorates.
First stop was the nearby Templo de San José, where palm fronds were also distributed and believers used them to brush up and down the statue of Jesus. Hands also ran down his legs and then were used to touch one’s face.
After emerging from the side door of the jam-packed church, we set off for Templo de San Felipe Neri (whose picturesque dome can be seen (left of center) on my blog banner-head).
Next stop was Carmen Abajo…
followed by the far right side chapel of the La Catedral de Nuestra Señora de la Asunción. A plaque at the entrance of the chapel read, “El maestro esta aqui y te llama” (The teacher is here and calls you) and the multitude seemed to be heeding the call.
We then strolled across the zócalo to the Jesuit, Templo de la Compañía de Jesus.
We changed direction and headed north up the Álcala. Big mistake! A mosh pit (Chris, this WAS a mosh pit) surrounding a Tuna band that was playing in the middle of the street, causing gridlock and bringing us to an abrupt stop. Eventually, following our blocker (my son, the lineman would be proud), we eventually found light and continued up to Preciosa Sangre de Cristo Templo, where we had earlier spent 1-1/2 hours (and it was still going on when we left!) at a mass where the priest reenacted Jesus washing the feet of his disciples at the Last Supper.
Strolling across the Álcala to Santo Domingo was much less challenging. The aisle to Santo Domingo’s main altar was blocked and we were routed to a side chapel. Hurray, we did it — this made seven churches visited!
However, though bleary-eyed (as evidenced by the photo below), we opted for just one more, Carmen Alto.
Home beckoned… and sleep came easily under the watch of the moon, now appropriately encircled by a halo.