While the caption says, “Welcome to Oaxaca,” those clenched fists raised in protest illustrate how the overwhelming majority of women in the United States feel today.
New mural at the corner of Allende and Tinoco y Palacios by Gran OM, Chauiztle Stencil, and Kloer Kloerk.
Posted in Creativity, Culture, Travel & Tourism | Tagged Chauiztle Stencil, Gran OM, Kloer Kloerk, Mexico, murals, Oaxaca, street art, wall art | 3 Comments »
At the risk of alienating readers who were drooling with envy over yesterday’s Chiles en nogada post, I bring you today’s lunch. This time I was dining with friends, which makes already delicious food taste even better.
Tres cocinera (3 cooks): Celia Florian, Carina Santiago, Kalisa Wells
Comida at Las Quince Letras where mis amigas Carina Santiago of restaurant and gallery Tierra Antigua in Teotitlán del Valle, Kalisa Wells (cocinera and new neighbor), and I were joined by the restaurant’s delightful owner/chef and ambassador extraordinaire of Oaxaca gastronomy, Celia Florian. (An aside: Celia and I were on the same flight from Mexico City to Oaxaca on Saturday night and I apologize to the other passengers for briefly blocking the aisle as we greeted each other with hugs.)
Appetizer of Garnachas Istmeña
Aguacate relleno
Chile de agua vinagreta
Dessert of warm pastel de elote
What a delicious and delightful way to spend my second day back home in Oaxaca.
Posted in Food, People, Restaurants, Travel & Tourism | Tagged Celia Florian, cocinceras, food, Las Quince Letras, Mexico, Oaxaca, photos, restaurants, Tierra Antigua, women cooks | 5 Comments »
I returned to Oaxaca very late last night and just in the nick of time. As I previously noted, chiles en nogada is prepared during the month of September — El Mes de la Patria celebrating Mexico’s independence from Spain — and I was keeping my fingers crossed that it would still be available. Thus, today (the LAST day of September) on my way back from Mercado Benito Juárez (a necessary restocking the empty larder shopping trip), when I saw the prominent “chiles en nogada” sign in front of Restaurante Catedral and heard the hostess explain to a small group of tourists that today was the last day they would be serving it, I had to seize the opportunity.
Just color me happily sated by the green, white, and red of the poblano chile stuffed with a special fruit and meat picadillo, blanketed with a smooth slightly sweet walnut sauce, and garnished with parsley and pomegranate seeds. So, mis amig@s (you know who you are) you are off the hook!
Posted in Celebrations, Food, Holidays, Travel & Tourism | Tagged Chiles en Nogada, El Mes de la Patria, Mexican Independence, Mexico, Oaxaca, patriotic decorations, photos, popular travel destinations, Restaurante Catedral | 3 Comments »
Four years and two days ago, 43 student teachers from Escuela Normal Rural Raúl Isidro Burgos in Ayotzinapa, Guerrero were disappeared in a violent attack on their bus in Iguala. They still haven’t been found, their families still grieve, and anger surrounding the lack of truth, transparency, and justice continues.
“For mothers who mourn empty graves for children who never returned”
In June of this year, a federal court ordered the creation of a truth and justice commission to undertake a new investigation but the current government has appealed the order. However, two days ago, on the anniversary of their disappearance, Mexico’s new president-elect, Andrés Manuel López Obrador (AMLO), met with relatives and representatives of the missing students and vowed to discover the truth and implement the court order. Expectations are high, but skepticism remains.
Posted in Creativity, Culture, Politics, Tragedy, Violence | Tagged Ayotizinapa, disappeared, Escuela Normal Rural Raúl Isidro Burgos, Guerrero, Iguala, Mexico, Oaxaca, photos, stencil art, street art, student teachers, URTARTE, wall art | 2 Comments »
I have returned to my hometown for my 50th high school reunion. (How could I possibly be that old?!) Whenever I come up to the USA, I make a point of bringing a little Oaxaca love with me. So, this trip I brought my three newest textile treasures to wear.
First, a modern asymmetric take on a traditional huipil — designed, dyed, and woven on a backstrap loom by Moisés Martínez Velasco from San Pedro Cajonos in the Villa Alta region of the Sierra Norte. Villagers cultivate and harvest the silk worms and spin the silk used in making this beautiful piece.
I also packed a recently purchased traditional blusa from the Mixtec village of San Pablo Tijaltepec. The blouses from this village are made from cotton manta and hand-embroidered with images of birds, animals, plants, and elements of nature in geometric patterns. The blouses take up to one and a half months to make. I wore it to the reunion picnic on Sunday and it received several compliments.
And, last but not least, I brought this elegant silk huipil with cotton chain-stitch hand embroidery designed by celebrated poet, Natalia Toledo. Honoring the traditional huipiles of her birthplace in Juchitán de Zaragoza in the Isthmus of Tehuantepec region of Oaxaca, yet bringing her own design esthetic to her label Teka, this woman of many talents works with seamstresses and embroiderers from the Isthmus and Central Valleys of Oaxaca to create one-of-a-kind pieces. I wore this to Saturday night’s reunion at the base of the Golden Gate Bridge beside the San Francisco Bay — and it was perfect!
Besides the designs, colors (lately, I seem to be binging on burgundy), and handmade aspect of the work, I especially appreciate that I was able to meet and purchase each piece directly from its creator.
Posted in Creativity, Culture, People, Textiles, Travel & Tourism | Tagged blouses, blusa, clothing, huipil, indigenous textiles, Mexico, Moisés Martínez Velasco, Natalia Toledo, Oaxaca, photos, San Pablo Tijaltepec, San Pedro Cajonos | 4 Comments »
The gods…
and superheroes like El Chapulín Colorado have had their day.
Today, the walls of Oaxaca remind us that it is journalists who are on the front lines — uncovering truth, advocating for justice, and often paying with their lives.
“Cuando un pais tiene ganas de gritar hay personas que no pueden callar.” (When a country wants to scream there are people who cannot remain silent.) — the late Mexican journalist, Javier Valdez.
Journalists in the USA, are you listening?
Posted in Creativity, Culture, Travel & Tourism | Tagged El Chapulín Colorado, graffiti, Javier Valdez, journalists, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, stencil art, street art, wall art | 6 Comments »
On September 16, Mexico celebrates Día de la Independencia — marking Father Hidalgo’s call to arms (Grito de Dolores) to begin the ten-year war for independence from Spain. However, the entire month of September is El Mes de la Patria (the month of the homeland) and streets and vendor stalls are awash with the green, white, and red of the Mexican flag.
Last week, walking down to Mercado Benito Juárez to pick up a few last-minute regalitos (little gifts) to bring up to family and friends in el norte, within two blocks I saw…
There is even a very yummy green, white, and red patriotic dish that appears in restaurants in September — Chiles en nogada. I’m hoping it will still be on the menu when I return at the end of the month from the el norte trip.
Posted in Celebrations, Culture, Holidays, Travel & Tourism | Tagged Chiles en Nogada, El Mes de la Patria, Mexican Independence Day, Mexico, Oaxaca, patriotic decorations, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, street vendors | 8 Comments »
The very dry rainy season continues and is the major topic of conversation among anyone who has any connection to la tierra (the land). However, during today’s Fiesta a la Natividad de la Virgen María in Teotitlán del Valle, the Zapotec god Cosijo answered the prayers for rain.
The sky darkened over Templo de la Preciosa Sangre de Cristo
Moctezuma (Sergio Gutiérrez Bautista) danced the story of the Conquest.
Doña Marina (Elizabeth Hernández Gutiérrez) danced her part.
The rain began to seriously fall and the plastic penacho (headdress) covers came out in force, but the danzantes continued to dance.
Comida (lunch break) came just in time, the sun came out, and Malinche (Quetzali del Rayo Santiago Ruiz) graciously posed for photos.
And, Javier Gutiérrez Hernandez (dance master, choreographer, former danzante, and father of Moctezuma) posed with his son’s penacho.
A little means a lot, though probably not enough to salvage this season’s milpa (field of corn, beans, and squash). But, when your culture dates back at least 2,500 years, you take a long view of history.
Posted in Celebrations, Culture, Religion, Travel & Tourism | Tagged Danza de la Pluma, danzantes, Doña Marina, Fiesta a la Natividad de la Virgen María, La Malinche, Mexico, Moctezuma, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, Preciosa, Teotitlán del Valle | 6 Comments »
A local’s guide to Mexico City: 10 tips describes a mural project by Aida Mulato and Jóvenes Artesanos to help rehabilitate her Roma neighborhood following the September 2017 earthquakes. According to the article, “The colourful murals celebrate indigenous communities and women, who continue to suffer most from the earthquakes. The project supports the larger goals of Jóvenes Artesanos and gives various support to about 150 artisans with whom Mulato works. With 15 murals painted already, the goal is to create a circuit of 68, representing the country’s indigenous populations.”
What an enlightened and wonderful contrast to the game of cat and mouse, street mural artists have been facing here in Oaxaca for the past few years, where many (including me) have been asking, are Color and culture, unwelcome? However, while they may be more ephemeral than we would wish, artists are still at work on the sides of our own crumbling buildings, and murals still can be found on the walls of Oaxaca.
Enjoy them while you can, they may be gone tomorrow.
Posted in Creativity, Culture, Travel & Tourism | Tagged crumbling walls, Mexico, Mexico City, murals, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, street art, urban art, wall art, women's faces | 5 Comments »
You know you are nearing a village when you see the bell tower(s) and dome of the Catholic church. Checking out the church is always high on the agenda. Many were originally constructed in the sixteenth century, though damage, restoration, and decoration have occurred over intervening centuries. And, don’t forget the details…
So, while attending the Feria del Barro Rojo in San Marcos Tlapazola in mid-July, we peeked through the locked gates, to see the Templo San Marcos.
Then off to San Miguel del Valle on a Fundación En Vía microfinance tour in early August and another church through another locked gate.
The piéce de résistance… We headed to the first food feria in Santa Ana Zegache in mid August. Alas, we arrived hours too early for the food, but we consoled ourselves with visiting their Baroque 17th century church (no locked gate) that was fabulously restored in the 1990s by the Rodolfo Morales Foundation.
All beautiful and unique. So, the lesson for today is, whenever you find yourself in a village in Oaxaca, be sure to check out the church.
Posted in Buildings, Churches, Creativity, Culture, Religion, Travel & Tourism | Tagged churches, iglesias, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, San Marcos Tlapazola, San Miguel del Valle, Santa Ana Zegache | 6 Comments »
Open doors always draw the eye; you never know what you will see. Peering through doorway of the Biblioteca de la Fundación Bustamante Vasconcelos, never disappoints. Across the courtyard, seasonal book sculptures can often be seen. Currently, celebrating July’s Guelaguetza, a Tehuana’s bookish hand holds her jicapextle aloft.
Last October, with Día de Muertos coming up, a calavera was a book work in progress, with William Shakespeare playing a bit part.
Guelaguetza 2017 brought a danzante from the Danza de la Pluma — his neck braced by the blue and rather appropriate book, “El Tesoro de Monte Albán.”
There have also been Christmas trees and crosses, so stay tuned. And, if you are in town, stop by the Biblioteca de la Fundación Bustamante Vasconcelos at Labastida 117 (across from the plazuela) — even if there isn’t a book sculpture, there are usually artisans set up in the entrance, and there is always the library to check out, says this librarian.
Posted in Books, Creativity, Culture, Travel & Tourism | Tagged Biblioteca de la Fundación Bustamante Vasconcelos, book art, book sculptures, books, libraries, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations | 2 Comments »
Alas, the massive tormenta (thunderstorm) that hit the city two weeks ago was a one hit wonder, despite predictions of rain almost every day. This evening, yet again, clouds gathered but only a drop or two fell.
Looking south…
Looking southwest…
Looking southeast…
Guess it’s time for a mezcal offering to Cosijo. Hope you will join me!
Posted in Casita Colibrí, Travel & Tourism, Weather | Tagged Basilica de la Soledad, clouds, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, weather | 6 Comments »
Saturday saw the inauguration of the long awaited Centro Cultural Comunitario de Teotitlán del Valle (CCCTV). We, along with the citizens of this Zapotec community, have been wondering and watching the progress of the building, located between the municipal building and tapete (rug) vendor stalls, for 3+ years.
To begin the celebration, a desfile departed from the plaza in front of the new center, wound its way through the streets of Teotitlán, and returned to its starting point almost an hour later. Parading through town, there were kids and abuelas…
Community leaders and villagers…
And neighboring municipality, Tlacolula de Matamoros, participating with one of their gigantic marmotas and dancers.
There were two bands supplying a marching rhythm and soundtrack — the first to lead the procession and, at the tail, Los Reformistas, accompanying the Danza de la Pluma Promesa 2016-2018.
The danzantes danced their way onto the plaza and performed.
Then villagers and visitors settled down for words of welcome by community leaders and the new cultural center director Abigail Mendoza (yes, the world famous cocinera), food and drink prepared by the women of Teotitlán, and a moving song by Lila Downs, a madrina of the inauguration.
By the way, several times during the event, Teotitecos proudly informed me that besides the CCCTV’s newly elected director, all the members of the cultural center’s governing committee are women.
Centro Cultural Comunitario director Abigail Mendoza (far left) and her committee.
There were musical performances and then a ribbon cutting to formally open the CCCTV — a building that was awarded the 2017 Cemex first place in the category of Collective Space, Gold Medal in the 3rd edition of the Architecture Biennial of Mexico City 2017, and the Silver Medal in the 15th edition of the National and International Biennial of Mexican Architecture 2018 (Centro Cultural de Teotitlán del Valle, Oaxaca).
At long last, the Centro Cultural Comunitario de Teotitlán del Valle was open to the public — and they poured in to view the spaces, exhibits, and Pablo Picasso community library.
However, that was far from the end of the celebration! A mini Guelaguetza began with the (above mentioned) delegation from Tlacolula, followed by the folkloric group, Grupo Dancistico Ritmo de Mi Raza, showcasing dances from the eight regions of the state of Oaxaca, and finished with an encore performance by Teotitlán’s Danza de la Pluma Promesa.
The celebration ended 10+ hours after it began, with the abuelas (seen above), village leaders, and the Cultural Center Committee dancing the jarabe in front of the municipal building, accompanied by the exploding sights and sounds of toritos dancing in the plaza, a few steps below.
In addition to permanent exhibits and library, the CCCTV also includes gardens, a store, meeting spaces, and will host temporary exhibitions, along with ongoing cultural and educational activities for children, youth, and adults.
Posted in Buildings, Celebrations, Culture, Museums, People, Travel & Tourism | Tagged Abigail Mendoza, Centro Cultural Comunitario de Teotitlán del Valle, cultural center, dancers, danzantes, desfile, Lila Downs, Mexico, Oaxaca, parade, photographs, photos, Teotitlán del Valle, toritos | 10 Comments »
I meant to post this during the World Cup. But, for a couple of reasons, you can file this under “the best laid plans of mice and (wo)men.”
On the wall outside the Salon de la Fama cantina (corner of M. Bravo and Porfirio Diaz), artist Efedefroy captured the mashup dreams of Mexican football (soccer) fans. The beloved singer/actor Jorge Negrete, wearing the jersey of El Tri and hoisting the 2018 World Cup. Alas, despite the “María” tattoo (La Virgen? No, probably 3rd wife María Félix), it was not to be.
Posted in Creativity, Culture, People, Travel & Tourism | Tagged Efedefroy, Jorge Negrete, Mexico, murals, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, street art, wall art | 4 Comments »
Late yesterday afternoon a neighbor and I taxied across town to the sweet little Templo de San Matías Jalatlaco for an organ concert presented by the Instituto de Órganos Históricos de Oaxaca in honor of La Asunción de la Virgen María (Feast of the Assumption). Once there, we ran into a couple of friends. The combined length of time the four of us had lived in Oaxaca totaled over 80 years (with me being the most recent, at nine years). I point this out because none of us knew why apples accompanied the image of Mary. Hmmm… Could it possibly have something to do with Eve in the Garden of Eden, we wondered?
Of course, the librarian in me couldn’t resist doing a little research. So, first stop on this morning’s grocery shopping trip to Mercado Benito Juárez, was a stop at Oaxaca’s Cathedral to see if the Virgin there also had apples to send her on her way. After all, the full name is Catedral Metropolitana de Nuestra Señora de la Asunción (Cathedral of Our Lady of the Assumption). Sure enough, Mary stood among bushels of apples.
The origin of the connection between Mary’s Assumption and apples is rather ambiguous. In sifting through the various explanations that Google found for me, la Virgen is considered the “New Eve” or “new Mother of men.” Wow, our speculation wasn’t too far from the mark. It is also said that when Mary drifted off to her final sleep, the cenacle (room the Last Supper was held) began to give off the scent of flowers and apples and, thus the tradition reminds believers of the moment of La Asunción.
Then there is the pragmatic explanation — this is the time of the summer harvest and “In many Catholic countries Assumption Day marks the period for invoking blessings on vineyards, herbs and plants… [and] In the East, where the Assumption Feast originated, the day is commemorated with elaborate ceremonies for blessing fruit trees and grain.” European colonists brought apples to the New World and they are abundant this time of year — thus Mary asleep among apples.
No matter the story behind this tradition, the aroma of apples was divine!
Posted in Celebrations, Churches, Culture, Holidays, Religion, Travel & Tourism | Tagged apples, Catedral Metropolitana de Nuestra Señora de la Asunción, Cathedral of Oaxaca, Feast of the Assumption, harvest celebrations, La Asunción de la Virgen María, La Virgen María, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, Templo de San Matías Jalatlaco, Virgin Mary | 10 Comments »
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