Day one back in Oaxaca…
Warm sun, blue sky, and rocking horses parked on Calle de Mariano Abasolo.
Vendor from Puebla with a truck full of dramatic wooden dancing horses from Zacatecas.
It’s good to be home!
Posts Tagged ‘popular travel destinations’
Rocking the rocking horse
Posted in Creativity, Culture, Travel & Tourism, tagged artesania, carved horses, dancing horses, Mexico, Oaxaca, photos, popular travel destinations, rocking horses, street scenes on January 18, 2019| 4 Comments »
Christmas Eve in el norte
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Holidays, Music, Travel & Tourism, tagged 'Twas the Night Before Christmas, Christmas decorations, Christmas ornaments, Christmas traditions, Eduardo Guerrero, Ernie Villarreal, Mexico, Oaxaca, Pancho Claus, photos, poem, popular travel destinations on December 24, 2018| 9 Comments »
‘Tis Christmas Eve and I’m in el norte. A light snow is falling and all are excited.
Ornaments from Oaxaca hang alongside those passed down through four generations — and the newly collected continue the one-new-ornament-a-year tradition.
My grandson is keeping a close eye on Santa’s progress around the globe. While awaiting the arrival of our late night visitor, it is time for Ernie Villarreal’s version of Pancho Claus by Chicano music legend, Eduardo “Lalo” Guerrero.
Pancho Claus
‘Twas the night before Christmas and all through la casa
Not a creature was stirring, Caramba! ¿Que pasa?
Los ninos were all tucked away in their camas,
Some in vestidos and some in pajamas.
While Mama worked late in her little cocina,
El viejo was down at the corner cantina.
The stockings were hanging con mucho cuidado,
In hopes that St. Nicholas would feel obligado
To bring all the children, both buenos y malos,
A Nice batch of dulces and other regalos.
Outside in the yard, there arouse such a grito,
That I jumped to my feet, like a frightened cabrito.
I went to the window and looked out afuera,
And who in the world, do you think que era?
Saint Nick in a sleigh and a big red sombrero
Came dashing along like a crazy bombero!
And pulling his sleigh instead of venados,
Were eight little burros approaching volados.
I watched as they came, and this little hombre
Was shouting and whistling and calling by nombre.
¡Ay, Pancho! ¡Ay, Pepe! ¡Ay, Cuca! ¡Ay, Beto!
¡Ay, Chato!
¡¡Ay, Chopo! ¡Maruca and ¡Nieto!
Then standing erect with his hand on his pecho
He flew to the top of our very own techo.
With his round little belly like a bowl of jalea,
He struggled to squeeze down our old chimenea.
Then huffing and puffing, at last in our sala,
With soot smeared all over his red suit de gala.
He filled the stockings with lovely regalos,
For none of the children had been very malos.
Then chuckling aloud and seeming contento,
He turned like a flash and was gone like the viento.
And I heard him exclaim and this is VERDAD,
Merry Christmas to all, And to All ¡Feliz Navidad!
The radishes are coming
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Exhibitions, Holidays, Travel & Tourism, tagged dried corn husks, dried flowers, flor inmortal, Mexico, Night of the Radishes, Noche de Rabanos, Oaxaca, photos, popular travel destinations, Totomoxtle on December 22, 2018| 4 Comments »
It’s December 22 and in Oaxaca that means it’s Noche de Rábanos eve. Despite the name, it’s not just about radishes. Tomorrow morning, on tables lining the Zócalo, radishes will be carved and arranged, totomoxtle (corn husk) figures will be staged, and flor inmortal (dried flowers) scenes will be set. Beginning in the early afternoon and lasting late into the night, residents and visitors will parade along elevated walkways to view the detailed and fantastical creations on display in this only-in-Oaxaca holiday event.
These aren’t your grandparents radishes; they are a variety that is specially cultivated for their starring role — sometimes growing to 20 inches long and weighing in at 7 pounds. Alas, I’m in el norte spending the holidays with my family. So, I will just have to look back through previous Noche de Rábanos blog posts to get into the radishy spirit.
FYI: Blogger buddy Chris will be there to record this year’s action, so be sure to check out Oaxaca- The Year After in the next couple of days.
Clowning around for Guadalupe
Posted in Celebrations, Churches, Culture, Holidays, Religion, Travel & Tourism, tagged clowns, Mexico, Oaxaca, payasos, photos, popular travel destinations, Virgen de Guadalupe, Virgin of Guadalupe on December 11, 2018| 4 Comments »
Tomorrow is Día de la Virgen de Guadalupe. Celebrating the Queen of Mexico, Empress of America, and patron saint of Mexico isn’t just a one day event. In Oaxaca city, Llano Park with Templo de Nuestra Señora de Guadalupe at the north end of the park, is the epicenter of activities — including clowns.
The south half of Llano Park is taken up with a carnival and vendors selling toys, Christmas lights, and a variety of holiday decorations. Above that, there are aisles upon aisles of food stalls, and along the side the church, Guadalupe scenes, designed and constructed by scores of professional photographers vying for pesos for portraits, have been constructed.
As I write, Guadalupe’s children, the little Juan Diegos and their peasant sisters are lined up around the block. They have been brought by parents and grandparents to wait to enter the church to be blessed and then pose for portraits in one of the Guadalupe scenes. Hopefully, the payasos (clowns) provide some entertainment and much-needed distraction!
Juquila’s day
Posted in Celebrations, Culture, Holidays, Religion, Travel & Tourism, tagged José Michael Méndez Miranda, Mexico, Noche de Rabanos, Oaxaca, photos, popular travel destinations, religious pilgrimages, Virgen de Juquila, Virgin of Juquila on December 8, 2018| 3 Comments »
The booms and bells began yesterday morning announcing the faithful en route by bus, bicycle, motorcycle, and on foot to visit the image of la Virgen de Juquila high in the mountains between Oaxaca city and the Pacific coast.
Copy of the image of la Virgen de Juquila
According to legend, in 1633, when a fire burned the small Chatino village of Amialtepec to the ground, a small wooden statue of the Virgin Mary was rescued amidst the ashes. She was undamaged, save for her light skin color, which was permanently darkened by the smoke, causing her to more closely resemble the Chatino people, who live in this remote mountainous region. Local priests declared her survival a miracle and she has been venerated ever since.
“Buscando la paz hastati. Virgencita de Juquila” by José Michael Méndez Miranda — Noche de Rabanos, 2017
Alas, that wasn’t the end of the story; the priest in the village of Juquila convinced the “powers that be” that she should be moved to the bigger and better church in Juquila. She, however, had other ideas and returned to Amialtepec. This back and forth continued another three times. Finally, in 1719, La Morenita (the dear dark one), as she had come to be known, gave up her traveling ways and agreed to call Santa Catarina Juquila her permanent home.
Home altar, 2016 — Santa Catarina Minas, Oaxaca
The faithful make pilgrimages to both her old and new mountain homes (about four hours southwest of Oaxaca city). They come year round to make offerings and pray for miracles, but especially during the days leading up to December 8.
Bus parked in Oaxaca city, December 7, 2018
She “is a symbol of love, of protection, of justice, of peace, of respect for human dignity.” And, because of her indigenous roots, “the homage to the Virgin of Juquila is similar to that rendered to the Virgin of Guadalupe, not only in Oaxaca, but also in Puebla, Tlaxcala, State of Mexico, Veracruz and Chiapas, as well as in the United States, for the religiosity of migrants.”
Altar with image of la Virgen de Juquila — Encuentro de Cocineras Tradicionales de Oaxaca 2018
On October 8, 2014, Juquila received a papal coronation, joining her previously crowned (1909) Oaxaca sister, Nuestra Señora de la Soledad. And, as I write on the night of December 8, 2018, Soledad celebrates her hermana’s day with fireworks.
Life among the ruins
Posted in Buildings, Creativity, Culture, Flora, Travel & Tourism, tagged abandoned buildings, crumbling buildings, graffiti, Mexico, Oaxaca, photos, plants, popular travel destinations, street art on December 6, 2018| 6 Comments »
Introduction to the Danza de la Pluma
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Travel & Tourism, tagged dance, Danza de la Pluma, danzantes, Mexico, Oaxaca, Oaxaca Lending Library, photos, popular travel destinations, Teotitlán del Valle, Virgen de Guadalupe on December 2, 2018| 3 Comments »
If you are in town… As background to the December 12, Fiesta a la Virgen de Guadalupe performance of the Danza de la Pluma in Teotitlán del Valle, blogger buddy Chris (of Oaxaca-The Year After fame) and I are again doing a presentation at the Oaxaca Lending Library. It will be on Tuesday, December 4 at 5:00 PM. And, new this year: There will be very special guests!
From the library’s description of the talk, “The Danza de la Pluma, with its giant feathered headdresses, is one of the most famous dances performed in Oaxaca and is particularly special in the Zapotec weaving village of Teotitlán del Valle. The dance, dancers, and village all have rich stories. Come join Chris Stowens and Shannon Sheppard, who have spent several years observing and learning about this amazing culture, for a presentation filled with stories, photos and video.”
Alas, it’s not free. Besides memberships, presentations like this are what keeps the library afloat. The cost is 90 pesos for OLL members and 130 pesos for non-members. Reservations can be made using the library’s Online Store. Hope to see you on Tuesday!
Tonight’s sunset over Soledad
Posted in Casita Colibrí, Churches, Travel & Tourism, tagged Basílica de Nuestra Señora de la Soledad, Basilica of Our Lady of Solitude, churches, Mexico, Oaxaca, photos, popular travel destinations, sunset on November 17, 2018| 14 Comments »
Sometimes, the sunset over the Basílica de la Soledad takes my breath away. 
What can I say? I love the view from Casita Colibrí!
Potpourri of pan de muertos
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Food, food festival, Holidays, Travel & Tourism, tagged bread of the dead, Day of the Dead, day of the dead bread, Día de los Muertos, feria, Mexico, Oaxaca, pan de muerto, photos, popular travel destinations, San Pablo Villa de Mitla, Villa Díaz Ordaz, Villa de Zaachila, Villa Hidalgo Yalalag on November 9, 2018| 11 Comments »
Several pan de muerto festivals sprung up in the valley of Oaxaca during Día de los Muertos — including a Festival del Pan de Muerto in Villa Díaz Ordaz, a Feria del Pan de Muerto Adornado in Villa de Zaachila, and a Feria del Pan y Chocolate in the city of Oaxaca. While the intention of these fairs is to attract tourists, both foreign and domestic, the primary market remains ofrendas (offerings) to the difuntos (departed) — who must be fed during their brief return to visit with their loved ones.
And, like apron styles, pan de muerto (bread of the dead) varies from village to village, be it sold at a feria, mercado, or neighborhood panadería.
Panadería Yalalag in Oaxaca city.
San Pablo Villa de Mitla.
San Pablo Villa de Mitla.
Mercado, 20 de noviembre, Oaxaca city.
Villa de Zaachila.
Villa de Zaachila.
Villa de Zaachila.
Villa de Zaachila
Villa de Zaachila.
Though my difuntos have departed and my altar has been disassembled, I couldn’t consign my beautiful (but stale) pan de muerto offerings to the garbage can.
Pan de muerto from Yalalag, Mitla, and Zaachila.
So, here they remain in a basket on my counter — until they disintegrate or the hormigas (ants) enjoy a feast.
Feast for the departed
Posted in Agriculture, Celebrations, Culture, Food, Travel & Tourism, tagged Day of the Dead, Día de los Muertos, farm to table, food, Mexico, Oaxaca, photos, popular travel destinations, tamales, Teotitlán del Valle on November 1, 2018| 8 Comments »
Today, at 3:00 PM in Teotitlán del Valle, as leaves in the mountains and fields rustled, the arrival of the difuntos (departed) was announced with the sound of cohetes (rockets) and church bells. Incense burners were lit and placed in front of ofrendas in each home’s altar room — the smoke and scent of copal helping to guide the spirits home for their yearly twenty-four hour visit.
Tonight they will feast on tamales amarillos — special tamales that are traditionally served three times a year in Teotitlán — in July for the Fiesta de la Preciosa Sangre de Cristo, in October for the Fiesta de la Virgen del Rosario, and today, November first, in honor of the returning difuntos.
As we have done for many years, blogger buddy Chris and I came to the home of Zacarías Ruiz and Emilia Gonzalez with our offering of pan de muertos and a bottle of mezcal to place on their altar — paying our respects to their difuntos. In turn, we were offered mezcal and cervesas (beer), followed by the aforementioned tamales amarillos.
The tamales were days in the making. Several of the family’s organic free range chickens were sacrificed; corn from their milpa was nixtamalized to make a silky smooth masa; and the ingredients for mole amarillo were toasted, chopped, blended, and boiled. The final preparation began at 3:30 this morning — 250 tamales were assembled, filled, and wrapped in fresh green leaves from their milpa and placed in the steaming pots. The results were to die for!
For me, more than painted faces and parades, this is what makes experiencing Día de los Muertos in Oaxaca so special.
Muertos murals in progress
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Holidays, Travel & Tourism, tagged calacas, Catrinas, Day of the Dead, Día de los Muertos, faces, Mexico, murals, Oaxaca, photos, popular travel destinations, skeletons, skulls, street art, Villa de Zaachila, wall art on October 30, 2018| 4 Comments »
Not all the Día de los Muertos murals in Villa de Zaachila were finished, some were still works in progress…
with ladders and paints standing by…
waiting for their artists to pick up the brush…
or spray can, as the case may be.
I first saw many of the murals in the summer of 2017 and was happy to see they are still intact, albeit some are a little faded. Celebrated by the community, the new murals join the old and become a part of the landscape of the village.
Zaachila calaveras for Leo
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Holidays, Travel & Tourism, tagged calacas, Day of the Dead, Día de los Muertos, Mexico, murals, Oaxaca, photos, popular travel destinations, skulls, street art, Villa de Zaachila, wall art on October 27, 2018| 2 Comments »
A regalito (little gift) to my calaca and calavera loving grandson from today’s visit to Villa de Zaachila for their first Feria del Pan de Muerto, Mole, Chocolate y Espuma.
From murals along the outer side of the panteón (cemetery) in Villa de Zaachila. Click to enlarge images.
Heartbeat of Oaxaca
Posted in Creativity, Culture, Travel & Tourism, tagged art, Barrio de Jalatlaco, Mexico, murals, Oaxaca, photos, popular travel destinations, Spray Kings, street art, wall art on October 25, 2018| 11 Comments »
This morning, on the way to my Oaxaca Lending Library cataloging shift (once a librarian, always a librarian), I made a detour through Jalatlaco, where the murals always give one pause.
I was on my way to Clinica Hospital Florencia to check on my 92 year old neighbor who had a pacemaker installed yesterday afternoon (once a nurse, always a nurse).
Like Oaxaca, she is strong…
She is proud…
And, she is back home after only 24 hours and feeling GREAT!!!
Teotitlán, when it rains it pours
Posted in Celebrations, Culture, People, Travel & Tourism, Weather, tagged dancers, Danza de la Pluma, danzantes, Mexico, Oaxaca, photos, popular travel destinations, rain, Teotitlán del Valle, traditions, Zapotec culture on October 10, 2018| 2 Comments »
Monday afternoon, in the middle of a fiesta at the home of Danza de la Pluma danzante Juan Pablo González Gutiérrez, a torrential downpour came to Teotitlán del Valle.
As I’ve mentioned, rain has been scarce this rainy season — a serious situation for a community that relies on subsistence farming.
So, despite the fact that the dirt road in front of the house became a muddy rushing river and festivities had to be put on hold for awhile as rain blew in through openings in the tented patio, this deluge was good news and people were smiling.
Everyone, including Juan Pablo, waited patiently for the life-giving rain to let up.
It eventually did and he was able to dance.
On a wet patio, surrounded by 100+ proud family members, fellow danzantes, and guests, he performed his solo dance.
Blogger buddy Chris and I felt so incredibly honored to have been invited. It was a truly memorable experience that we will treasure always. Muchisimas gracias to Juan and his family and all the members of the Danza de la Pluma Promesa 2016-18 for being so warm and welcoming to us over the past couple of years. We are going to miss you!
Chiles en nogada, yes!
Posted in Celebrations, Food, Holidays, Travel & Tourism, tagged Chiles en Nogada, El Mes de la Patria, Mexican Independence, Mexico, Oaxaca, patriotic decorations, photos, popular travel destinations, Restaurante Catedral on September 30, 2018| 3 Comments »
I returned to Oaxaca very late last night and just in the nick of time. As I previously noted, chiles en nogada is prepared during the month of September — El Mes de la Patria celebrating Mexico’s independence from Spain — and I was keeping my fingers crossed that it would still be available. Thus, today (the LAST day of September) on my way back from Mercado Benito Juárez (a necessary restocking the empty larder shopping trip), when I saw the prominent “chiles en nogada” sign in front of Restaurante Catedral and heard the hostess explain to a small group of tourists that today was the last day they would be serving it, I had to seize the opportunity.
Just color me happily sated by the green, white, and red of the poblano chile stuffed with a special fruit and meat picadillo, blanketed with a smooth slightly sweet walnut sauce, and garnished with parsley and pomegranate seeds. So, mis amig@s (you know who you are) you are off the hook!
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