Today, at 3:00 PM in Teotitlán del Valle, as leaves in the mountains and fields rustled, the arrival of the difuntos (departed) was announced with the sound of cohetes (rockets) and church bells. Incense burners were lit and placed in front of ofrendas in each home’s altar room — the smoke and scent of copal helping to guide the spirits home for their yearly twenty-four hour visit.
Tonight they will feast on tamales amarillos — special tamales that are traditionally served three times a year in Teotitlán — in July for the Fiesta de la Preciosa Sangre de Cristo, in October for the Fiesta de la Virgen del Rosario, and today, November first, in honor of the returning difuntos.
As we have done for many years, blogger buddy Chris and I came to the home of Zacarías Ruiz and Emilia Gonzalez with our offering of pan de muertos and a bottle of mezcal to place on their altar — paying our respects to their difuntos. In turn, we were offered mezcal and cervesas (beer), followed by the aforementioned tamales amarillos.
The tamales were days in the making. Several of the family’s organic free range chickens were sacrificed; corn from their milpa was nixtamalized to make a silky smooth masa; and the ingredients for mole amarillo were toasted, chopped, blended, and boiled. The final preparation began at 3:30 this morning — 250 tamales were assembled, filled, and wrapped in fresh green leaves from their milpa and placed in the steaming pots. The results were to die for!
For me, more than painted faces and parades, this is what makes experiencing Día de los Muertos in Oaxaca so special.
Mexican Peso Converter
View From Casita Colibrí 
We were lucky enough to be there also at 3PM, for the lighting of the candles, the copal and wonderful tamales. We drove around town – Teotitlan, a little before we arrived and town was so empty and quiet – except for 3 people we saw scurrying down the street with a newly purchased giant candle.
Yes, the streets were empty… everyone home preparing for the arrival of their fieles difuntos. It was fascinating to see the immediate action when the clock struck 3 PM. The interruption in conversation and activity to light the incense when the souls departed at 3 PM on Nov. 2.
Hello! I’m so glad to have found your blog! My friend and I are moving to Mexico at the end of summer 2019, and our first stop is in Oaxaca de Juárez for a month. (Not sure how long we’ll stay in the city after that… the rest is still undecided.) We are coming from Michigan, so it will quite an adventure. I look forward to reading more about your experiences in Oaxaca!
– Amanda
Thank you, Amanda. Perhaps we can meet while you are in the city. Wishing you, buena suerte on your journey!
Your photos and comments always convey the essence of the places and experiences you share. Your connection and love of Oaxaca really comes through. Thank you!.
Thank you, Barbra. It’s a hard place not to love!
Hello, I absolutely enjoy reading your posts. I guess I sort of relive Oaxaca through you since I cannot visit as often as I would like. This is really a comment for you and not really meant to be posted, but I don’t know how else to reach you. I have an observation about the banana leaves used for the tamales, the green leaves come from banana trees and the corn husk comes from the milpa. Blessings! Blanca
Hi Blanca, No worries and thanks for commenting. Actually, cocineras in Teotitlán del Valle use green leaves of corn stalks (hoja de milpa) for some tamales. It’s readily available and imparts a unique flavor.