“It’s a beautiful day in the neighborhood.”
A winter Sunday in Oaxaca.
Posted in Culture, Parks & Plazas, Travel & Tourism, Weather | Tagged Carmen Abajo, Mexico, Mr. Rodgers quote, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, zócalo | 2 Comments »
Sí, huevos divorciados! A little food porn to begin the day…
Early morning walk up to Hotel las Golondrinas yesterday morning for breakfast. Surrounded by the distinctive pottery of Dolores Porras, it was the perfect setting to meet Michael Peed, filmmaker of the documentary, Dolores Porras: Artista Artesana de Barro.
Posted in Culture, Food, People, Travel & Tourism | Tagged Dolores Porras DVD, food, Hotel las Golondrinas, huevos divorciados, Mexico, Michael Peed, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations | 8 Comments »
As promised, the fireworks on Sunday night at Templo del Carmen Alto celebrating Señor de Esquipulas were, indeed, espectacular! But, you may be asking, “Who is he and why does he deserve such celebration and veneration?”
Esquipulas refers to a town in Guatemala where, prior to the arrival of the Spanish, the peoples of Mesoamerica worshiped the god Ek Chua. After the Conquest, in 1594, Quirio Cataño was commissioned to carve a sculpture of Jesus on the cross for Esquipulas. Legend has it that Cataño used dark wood so that it looked more like the indigenous residents of the area. Another version of the story has the sculpture turning dark overnight to “please the children from the village of Esquipulas.” However, during a recent restoration of the image it was determined that it was centuries of smoke from candles and being touched by the faithful that turned the original light wood, dark.
Señor de Esquipulas from Templo Carmen Alto, Oaxaca — Procession of Silence, Good Friday 2013
Various miracles have been attributed to Señor de Esquipulas and pilgrims descend on the small Guatemalan village from Central America and Mexico to venerate the Black Christ. He has a long reach and replicas have been commissioned in Costa Rica, El Salvador, Mexico, Nicaragua, and even as far away as Venezuela for the faithful to worship.
I’m not sure how Carmen Alto in Oaxaca came to house a Señor de Esquipulas, but it does and they go all out celebrating. Processions and special masses have been held during the week. However, the big festival day is January 19 and it began with early morning rockets at 6 AM — Alegres mañanitas in honor of the Señor de Esquipulas. The eucharist was celebrated at 7 AM, 8 AM, and 12 PM — the latter “For the peace of the world and for all the infirmed.” Cultural events were held during the day and there was another eucharist at 7 PM. Following the evening eucharist, Señor de Esquipulas was carried through the streets of the parish, accompanied by a band, monos, and believers.
Once they returned to Carmen Alto’s courtyard, it was “torito” time. The little bull holding up part of the castillo-under-construction in my last blog post, was ready to take center stage. Encircled by a brave crowd, for twenty to thirty minutes he danced and ran around the plaza spewing sparks at those in the line of fire.
Next up was two castillos, multi-story structures wired for a major sensory experience — light, sound, and much welcome heat, on a chilly night. Peace seemed to be a theme this year, with wheel appendages spelling out, “Violence no more” and “All united for peace.” This year there was even a prerecorded soundtrack. A young couple, on a cycling trip from Vancouver to Argentina, recognized it as music from a movie that I hadn’t heard of — however, they seemed quite surprised and delighted.
The flaming tops of each castillo eventually spun off into the night, as a fabulous fireworks display lit up the sky.
The show put on for Señor de Esquipulas was spectacular!
Posted in Celebrations, Churches, Culture, Religion, Travel & Tourism | Tagged Black Christ, fireworks, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, Señor de Esquipulas, Templo del Carmen Alto | 3 Comments »
Beware, anyone in the vicinity of Carmen Alto church tonight…
There’s going to be some major fireworks!!!
Oaxaca is celebrating the Black Christ, Señor de Esquipulas.
Posted in Celebrations, Churches, Culture, Holidays, Religion, Travel & Tourism | Tagged Black Christ, fireworks, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, Señor de Esquipulas, Templo del Carmen Alto | 4 Comments »
And now for a little levity…
Seen through the window of La Condesa restaurant and bar in Oaxaca.
I love to tease men with my legs. — Eartha Kitt
I keep waiting for the bar stools to break out into a tap dance routine. A friend posted this video on Facebook yesterday of Fred Astaire tapping and drumming — at the same time! I wonder what he would have done with these stools?
Posted in Creativity, Culture, Restaurants, Travel & Tourism | Tagged bar stools, Eartha Kitt quote, Fred Astaire video, La Condesa Oaxaca, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, restaurant | 2 Comments »
Reader alert: If you are squeamish, you might want to skip this post.
Yesterday, minding my own business, I was attacked by a killer cactus! Well, the cactus isn’t really a killer (at least, I don’t think it is) and I wasn’t really minding my own business — I was weeding in the vicinity of said cactus, which I think is an Austrocylindropuntia subulata ssp. exaltata. Unfortunately, this wasn’t the first time this particular cactus and I had had a run in.
Four years ago, concentrating on weeding around another plant, I momentarily forgot about the danger lurking in the neighboring pot and got stabbed in the upper arm. After more than momentary disbelief, I gathered my wits and called on my friend, neighbor, and fellow gardener G for help. He managed to pull the spine out with only a moderate amount of pain, cleansed the puncture site with alcohol (the rubbing kind), gave me alcohol (the drinking kind), and I was good to go.
After that encounter, I showed the Austrocylindropuntia the respect it so rightly deserves. I also admit to having had thoughts of abandoning it on my old apartment’s terrace when I moved last year. However, I was convinced by my moving crew that it should join the rest of my garden on the new big terraza. Though why they wanted to risk its espinas peligrosas, I don’t know. However, I do know, I would have much preferred bringing my beautiful Agave Americana to my new home, but they said it was too big and had to stay put.
That brings me to yesterday’s unfortunate incident. I remember thinking, as I reached in to pull a couple of weeds in the Austrocylindropuntia’s pot, “Go get the long garden tweezers.” But I didn’t, and got stabbed on the back of my right hand (between the knuckles of my index and middle finger) for the trouble. How stupid could I be??? Stunned, I again turned to neighbors — this time, David and Marilyn from Alaska. It was decided I needed professional help, so off to Hospital Molina we walked, me with a four-inch cactus spine sticking out of the top of my hand.
The doctor took me into an exam room immediately. He asked the important questions: “Name? Age? Address? Allergies? Where is the offending cactus located? Do you use pesticides in your garden?” I asked the question that was foremost on my mind, “Aren’t you going to use lidocaine?” “No,” he calmly replied. He then directed me to relax and look toward the window. He had such reassuring manner, I actually did as I was told. He gently felt around the protruding spine and then it was out — and, miracle of miracles, I didn’t feel a thing! He, too, cleansed the wound with alcohol, wrote prescriptions for an antibiotic and a mild pain reliever, told me to apply hot compresses twice a day, and collected 300 pesos ($23.00 US) for the visit. I collected my ever-so-kind neighbors and we went on our way. The phrase, “Do you have insurance?” was never uttered and I was not required to fill out ANY forms!
It’s thirty hours later and I am alive and well. Antibiotic is being taken every six hours, my hand is only slightly swollen, and there is only a little pain. I’m good to go. And I’m thinking, it’s time for the Austrocylindropuntia subulata ssp. exaltata to go. No use tempting fate a third time!
Posted in Casita Colibrí, Gardens, Health | Tagged Austrocylindropuntia subulata ssp. exaltata, cactus, healthcare, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos | 13 Comments »
Urban artist, Yescka, at work on December 20, 2013 at Gorilla Gallery in Oaxaca…
Live action painting from the back of the glass, a devilish Virgen de Guadalupe emerges…
From the back and from the front, La Virgen is finished.
Yescka then turned to one of the gallery’s windows; outside looking in and inside looking out.
Like street art, these works are not forever. In a month (or so), the virgin will be disappeared and another artist will come to Gorilla Gallery to create another ephemeral masterpiece.
Gorilla Gallery is at Crespo 213 and is open on Thursdays, from 2:00 – 8:0 PM.
Posted in Creativity, Culture, Exhibitions, Travel & Tourism | Tagged art, Gorilla Gallery, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, urban art, Yescka | Leave a Comment »
Walking down the Alcalá… on the way home late yesterday afternoon… sounds of a band… I look up towards Santo Domingo… and see a calenda coming down the street.
Universidad La Salle Oaxaca on parade. Reason # 552 why I love living here!
Posted in Celebrations, Culture, Education, Travel & Tourism | Tagged calenda, Mexico, Oaxaca, parade, photographs, photos, Universidad La Salle Oaxaca | 2 Comments »
At a busy intersection, on a small concrete island, sits the bust of a woman. Who is she?
This is where Pino Suarez and República both meet Niños Heroes, traffic comes in at “unnatural” angles, and my attention is usually laser focused on attempting to look in the right direction, deciphering which traffic lights do what, and keeping my adrenalin in check as I determine the safest moment to dash across each street.
However, a few days ago, on my return to El Centro, after having walked far up into Colonia Reforma, I decided to take a break and investigate. Just who is this indigenous woman who presides from her triangular perch.
Meet Brigida Garcia de Juárez, from the mountain village of Guelatao, Oaxaca — mother of Oaxaca’s beloved favorite son and Mexico’s revered former president, Benito Pablo Juárez García. She died when he was only three years old.
The plaque that rests at the base of the monument reads, “Madre de Benemérito de America – H. Ayuntamiento – 1984. Mother of the distinguished national hero of modern Mexico.
Posted in Culture, History, Parks & Plazas, People, Travel & Tourism | Tagged Benito Juárez, Brigida Garcia de Juárez, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos | 1 Comment »
We are still enjoying the Christmas merry-go-round in Oaxaca. Lucky for “children” young and old, the San Pablo Cultural and Educational Center has even provided a real (not just metaphorical) carousel to hop on during this holiday season. And today, along with riding the merry-go-round, in honor of Día de Reyes, all were welcome to partake in the traditional Rosca de Reyes (Three Kings cake) — served by none other than Tato, the birdbrain (after all he is an ostrich) Oaxaca Guerreros team (baseball) mascot (though I think he was doing more eating than serving). Thankfully, on this chilly night, there was also hot chocolate (with milk or water, your choice) with which to warm hands and dip cake.
Whew!!! A baby Jesus figurine was not found in my piece of Rosca de Reyes, so I won’t have to throw a tamale and atole party on Candlemas, February 2nd, for everyone present at this evening’s festivities.
Posted in Celebrations, Culture, Food, Holidays, Religion, Travel & Tourism | Tagged carousel, Día de Reyes, El Día De Los Reyes Magos, Epiphany, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, Rosca de Reyes, San Pablo Academic and Cultural Center, Tato, Three Kings Day | 1 Comment »
While Santa Claus is making inroads into Mexico, it’s tonight’s visit by Melchor, Gaspar, and Baltazar that children anxiously await. Los Reyes Magos (the Three Wise Men) bring gifts in Mexico, Latin America, and Spain. Tomorrow, January 6, is El Día de Reyes (aka, Epiphany) and children will scramble to see what the Magi brought them.
Special markets have been set up; puestos upon puestos selling toys, sporting equipment, and any and everything else kids desire. Friday, it was quite a scene on the Alameda, as for the 22nd year, a toy drive, sponsored by El DIF Municipal and Grupo Radio México, was in progress. And, naturally, there were payasos (clowns) to help the kings collect.
According to reports, the Kilómetro del Juguete (kilometer of toys) collected 2500 items on Friday, alone.
From doll buggies to…
to skateboards…
The toys will be distributed to disadvantaged children this afternoon in the Plaza de la Danza, in a program that begins at 5:00 PM. There will be music (of course!), contests, entertainment, and local celebrities. Last year was a hoot!
My upstairs neighbors and I have been without running water since yesterday afternoon. So, we’re just hoping Los Reyes Magos bring us water — preferably today!
Posted in Celebrations, Culture, Parks & Plazas, Travel & Tourism | Tagged Día de Reyes, El Día De Los Reyes Magos, Epiphany, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, Three Kings Day, toy drive, toys | Leave a Comment »
New year’s morning… 9:00 AM… music coming from the Plaza de la Danza. Sheesh, only a few hours after the booms, bangs, and hisses from fireworks that announced the arrival of 2014 had finally quieted. Thus, sleep deprived, I was moving slowly. However, speeches joined the music and I thought I heard mention of Mexico’s current president, Enrique Peña Nieto… AND there was cheering. Hmmm… I showered, dressed, and headed up Morelos.
Military…
Tubas…
Monos…
Marmotas…
Canastas…
and crowds…
heralded the inauguration of Oaxaca city’s new mayor, Javier Villacaña Jimenez, a PRI-ista, political party of the state’s former (much-hated) governor and party of Mexico’s current president. Oaxaca’s current governor was elected July 4, 2010 by an alliance between the PAN, PRD, and a couple of other left-leaning parties, whose primary goal was ousting the PRI from its 80+ year reign in the state of Oaxaca.
This ought to be interesting…
Posted in Celebrations, Parks & Plazas, Politics | Tagged Javier Villacaña Jimenez, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, Plaza de la Danza, politics | 2 Comments »
In 2014, don’t…
or do, what feels good.
(In Oaxaca, on Berriozábal at the corner of Reforma.)
Posted in Creativity, Culture, Travel & Tourism | Tagged arts, graffiti, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, street art, urban art | 4 Comments »
Feliz año nuevo y muchisimas gracias to all my wonderful blog readers — for reading, for commenting, for sharing, for the opportunity to meet some of you, and for inspiring me to continue.
Tonight, don’t forget to eat 12 grapes at midnight, making a wish for the new year as you eat each one. And, if one of your wishes is to travel, take your suitcase out for a walk after you finish your grapes.
My wish for you in 2014…
I Hope You Dance
Written by Mark D. Sanders and Tia Sillers and
recorded by Lee Ann Womack
I hope you never lose your sense of wonder
You get your fill to eat
But always keep that hunger
May you never take one single breath for granted
God forbid love ever leave you empty handed
I hope you still feel small
When you stand by the ocean
Whenever one door closes, I hope one more opens
Promise me that you’ll give faith a fighting chance
And when you get the choice to sit it out or dance
I hope you dance
I hope you dance
I hope you never fear those mountains in the distance
Never settle for the path of least resistance
Living might mean taking chances
But they’re worth taking
Lovin’ might be a mistake
But it’s worth making
Don’t let some hell bent heart
Leave you bitter
When you come close to selling out
Reconsider
Give the heavens above
More than just a passing glance
And when you get the choice to sit it out or dance
I hope you dance
(Time is a wheel in constant motion always)
I hope you dance
(Rolling us along)
I hope you dance
(Tell me who)
I hope you dance
(Wants to look back on their youth and wonder)
(Where those years have gone)
I hope you still feel small
When you stand by the ocean
Whenever one door closes, I hope one more opens
Promise me that you’ll give faith a fighting chance
And when you get the choice to sit it out or dance
Dance
I hope you dance
I hope you dance
(Time is a wheel in constant motion, always)
I hope you dance
(Rolling us along)
I hope you dance
(Tell me who)
(Wants to look back on their youth and wonder)
I hope you dance
(Where those years have gone)
(Tell me who)
I hope you dance
(Wants to look back on their youth and wonder)
(Where those years have gone)
Posted in Celebrations, Culture, Travel & Tourism | Tagged Año Nuevo, I Hope You Dance lyrics, Mexico, New Year's Eve, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations | 16 Comments »
To contemplate is to look at shadows. — Victor Hugo
From last night’s “Fuego Nuevo” performance by the Ballet Folklórico Tradicional del Estado de Oaxaca at the Plaza de la Danza. Using music and dance, this “espectáculo” tells the story of the beginning of a new cycle in the Mixteca culture.
(FYI: For those in Oaxaca, it’s free and repeats tonight at 7 PM.)
Posted in Creativity, Culture, Travel & Tourism | Tagged Fuego Nuevo 2013, Mexico, Mixtec, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, theater, Victor Hugo quote | 2 Comments »
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