View From Casita Colibrí

Good Friday faces in B&W

March 26, 2016 by spixl

A few Viernes Santo (Good Friday) favorites from the morning’s encounter between Jesús and María in front of the Cathedral.

Faces that have become familiar.

Posted in Celebrations, Culture, Holidays, Religion, Travel & Tourism | Tagged Black and white photography, boys, Christianity, Easter, faces, girls, Good Friday, Holy Week, Jesus, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, portraits, Semana Santa, Viernes Santo, Virgin Mary | 2 Comments »

Though rain began falling, clutching camera, umbrella, and my ten peso bag of pan bendito (blessed bread), I left the cozy dry confines of my apartment to join the faithful in a ritual promenade. It’s Jueves Santo (Holy Thursday, Maundy Thursday), commemorating the Last Supper of Jesus, the washing of feet, and the apprehension and imprisonment of Jesus.

San José de Gracia, Oaxaca de Juárez

Tradition in Oaxaca calls for visiting seven churches (la visita de las siete casas) with one’s pan bendito and palm leaves. The faithful use the latter to touch images of Jesús and María. This year, I again committed myself to the mission. My first stop was just around the corner at Templo de San José and the second was even easier — the Basilica de Nuestra Señora de la Soledad, just across the Plaza de la Danza from the former.

Watery entrance to the Basilica de Nuestra Señora de la Soledad, Oaxaca de Juárez

While inside, attempting (unsuccessfully) to get a good shot of Nuestra Señora, the heavens opened up in a downpour. Needless to say, I hung out with Soledad until the torrential rain calmed to only a steady drizzle.

Neverías at the Jardín Sócrates, Oaxaca de Juárez

However, the rain didn’t stop the faithful and tourists, alike, from stopping to enjoy a nieve (iced dessert) right outside the Basilica, before continuing on. I kept on moving — down the steps to Calle Independencia, on my way to the Templo de San Felipe Neri.

Exit sign at Templo de San Felipe Neri, Oaxaca de Juárez

By the way, Jueves Santo is such a big deal, to avoid gridlock from those coming and going, the churches designate one door as the “entrance” and another as the “exit.” It’s a great idea in theory but in practice, especially on a rainy night, it was almost meaningless.

Catedral de Nuestra Señora de la Asunción, Oaxaca de Juárez

Next stop was across the street at the inconspicuous Iglesia San Cosme y Damián, then on to the very prominent Catedral de Nuestra Señora de la Asunción, where the three front entrances were providing tourists, vendors, and believers shelter from the storm.

After navigating my way through the Cathedral, I exited stage right, dashed across the zócalo and into La Compañía (the Jesuit church). On my way out the side door, I stopped briefly to buy a bag of homemade gingersnaps and, with umbrella raised, headed to my seventh and final church of the night, El Carmen de Abajo. Though tempted by the aroma of some yummy looking food several “church ladies” were selling in the side foyer, I didn’t have enough hands to hold a paper plate, my camera, and my umbrella. So, home I went, basking in the warm feelings I always have after being with my Oaxaqueño neighbors.

Posted in Churches, Culture, Holidays, Religion, Travel & Tourism | Tagged Basílica de Nuestra Señora de la Soledad, Cathedral of Oaxaca, Holy Thursday, Holy Week, Jardín Sócrates, Jueves Santo, La catedral de Nuestra Señora de la Asunción, Maundy Thursday, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, rain, Semana Santa, Templo de San Felipe Neri, Templo de San José | 2 Comments »

Lord of the Redemption

March 22, 2016 by spixl

Lunes Santo (Holy Monday), at least here in Oaxaca, brings the Festividad del Señor del Rescate (Festival of the Lord of the Redemption). I was clueless, until I ran into my neighbor Juan as he was returning from work. He recommended that I and my camera check out the action in the vicinity of the Basílica de la Soledad. I grabbed my keys and little Lumix and off I went.

I heard the rhythmic beat of the tambor and chanted prayers before I saw El Señor and his followers paused in front of the bunker at the entrance to the Comisión de Seguridad Pública, Vialidad y Protección Civil headquarters on Av. Morelos. An ironic or fitting (?) site for the handcuffed Jesus to stop on the Víacrucis por la Reconciliación y la Paz (Way of the Cross for Reconciliation and Peace).

On this Lunes Santo, the (almost) full moon watched standard bearers navigate the maze of overhead wires as the procession continued to wind its way through the city’s streets. As for me, I returned home to eat dinner — there is so much going on, one has to pace oneself.

Posted in Celebrations, Churches, Culture, Holidays, Religion, Travel & Tourism | Tagged Easter, Festival of the Lord of the Redemption, Festividad del Señor del Rescate, Holy Monday, Holy Week, Lunes Santo, Mexico, Moon, Oaxaca, Pascuas, photographs, photos, processions, Semana Santa, Stations of the Cross, Via Crucis | Leave a Comment »

Semana Santa begins

March 19, 2016 by spixl

While technically Semana Santa (Holy Week) doesn’t begin until Sunday, the six weeks of Lent has gently ushered us toward it. Tourists, a majority from other parts of Mexico, have begun filling the streets, purple and white papel picado flutters from on high, and an artisan market has been set up on the Alcala, above Santo Domingo.

Salvia Hispanica (aka, chia) sprouting from terracotta clay animals decorates altars — seeds which were blessed on February 2 (Feast of Candelaria). According to an article in MexConnect, “Growing greens remind the viewer of the resurrection and renewal of life.” By the way, this is where the US entrepreneur who borrowed (stole) the idea and, in the late 1970s, gave the world “chia pets.”

And yesterday, the 6th Friday of Lent, El Día de la Virgen de Dolores (the Virgin of the Sorrows) was celebrated. Her tearful eyes looking to the heavens in anguished sorrow.

Tomorrow is Domingo de Ramos (Palm Sunday) and El Señor del Burrito in San Antonino Castillo Velasco beckons.

FYI: Vive Oaxaca is posting Semana Santa events on their website.

Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Holidays, Religion, Travel & Tourism | Tagged animal figurines, Chia Pets, Día de la virgen de Dolores, Holy Week, Mexico, Oaxaca, papel picado, photographs, photos, Semana Santa, virgen de dolores, Virgin of Sorrows | Leave a Comment »

St. Brendan in Mexico?

March 17, 2016 by spixl

The Mexican-Irish connection may date back farther than most of us have considered. Séamus Ó Fógartaigh writes in the essay, Ireland and Mexico, “The first Irishman to set foot on Mexican soil may well have been St. Brendan the Navigator, who, according to legend, crossed the Atlantic Ocean in his ‘currach’ (traditional Irish rowing boat) in search of new converts to the Christian faith. An ancient manuscript found in Medieval European monasteries allegedly described his voyage to strange Western Lands, and is known as the Navigatio Sancti Brendani Abbatis. Some historians claim that Christopher Columbus found inspiration for his seafaring adventure in the pages of the Navigatio of St. Brendan the Abbot.” And, he notes, there is even speculation that Quetzalcóatl was actually a deified Irish monk.

As you raise your pint of Guinness on this St. Patrick’s Day, consider this and the other Mexico and Ireland connections, while you sing a rousing chorus of Saint Patrick Battalion.

The song celebrates the Batallón de San Patricio, the Irish-American soldiers who deserted and fought alongside the Mexican army against the United States during the Mexican American War, 1846-1848. And, don’t forget to watch One Man’s Hero, the 1999 feature film about the San Patricios, starring Tom Berenger.

Sláinte mhaith! ¡Salud! And, remember, don’t drink and drive!

Posted in History, Holidays, Music, Travel & Tourism | Tagged David Rovics music video, history, Irish in Mexico, Mexican American War, Mexico, Quetzalcóatl, St. Brendan the Navigator, St. Patrick's Battalion, St. Patrick's Day | 5 Comments »

Morning in March

March 15, 2016 by spixl

As I left my apartment Friday morning, the sky was blue, the air was brisk and shadows played tag with the ceiba.

P1170380

Early mornings in March are magical.

Posted in Flora, Travel & Tourism | Tagged ceiba, flowers, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, shadows, trees | 4 Comments »

Team Litzy

March 13, 2016 by spixl

Friday morning I returned to Llano Park for this year’s fifth and final Viernes del Llano, an only in Oaxaca Lenten tradition sponsored by the Universidad Autónoma Benito Juárez de Oaxaca. A few weeks ago, when I arrived at 8:30 AM, the crowds were already four deep and, initially, I couldn’t get anywhere close to the action. Not wanting a repeat, this week I got there at 8:00 AM to discover not many people and preparations just beginning. Looking for something to find, I came across Litzy, one of the 18 contestants having her makeup applied.

Like most of the young women, Litzy wasn’t alone. A team of industrious and enthusiastic supporters were there before, during, and after to help, wave banners and balloons, and cheer as she passed by.

Like the other contestants, she was presented with bouquets upon bouquets of flowers — way too many for one person to carry. Thus, a team of her admirers was required to follow along to assist.

The time came for the winners to be announced: Five young women were recognized for their efforts and dedication, two for their truncheon(?) and organization of their groups, another for her eloquence, and another was named Miss Photogenic. But, what about Litzy? The suspense continued to build as the announcer spoke and paused and spoke and paused and then the name, Litzy Guadalupe González Montes was announced as the Madrina del Quinto Viernes del Llano!

Felicidades to a lovely and very gracious young woman. It was a pleasure to briefly tag along on her journey.

(ps) Chris has more photos from this week at Viernes del Llano – Beauty abounds.

Posted in Celebrations, Culture, Education, Parks & Plazas, People, Travel & Tourism | Tagged Cuaresma, Lent, Litzy Guadalupe González Montes, Llano Park, Mexico, Oaxaca, Paseo de los Viernes de Cuaresma, Paseos Florales del Llano, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, students, Viernes del Llano | 2 Comments »

Oaxaca Sabe, days 3-5

March 11, 2016 by spixl

Day three of Oaxaca Sabe took me to meet a gal pal for comida at El Olivo. She has become a regular there but I hadn’t yet been to their new location on Constitución and was pleasantly surprised by the sophistication and warmth of the space. After several sips of a nice glass of Tempranillo (included in the prix fixe menu) and conversation, our divine starters arrived…

Rollo de quesillo relleno de huitlachoche con puré aguacate y ensalada de arúgula (Roll of quesillo cheese stuffed with corn smut, garnished with avocado puree and arugula salad)

As I’ve mentioned before, I have become a huitlacoche enthusiast and thus savored the mushroomy corn flavors. The main course was Ballotine de lomo de cerdo acompañado de pure de manzana y piña asada con reducción de pomelo y zanahorias horneadas (Rolled pork loin accompanied by applesauce and roasted pineapple sauce with a grapefruit reduction and baked baby carrots). Dessert, which I “forced” myself to eat, was a yummy Tarta de manzana al cardamomo (Cardamom apple tart).

Then there was yesterday’s comida with my recently returned (from el norte) blogger buddy Chris. On the seventh day of last spring’s Oaxaca Sabe, we were tired but determined to continue our restaurant-a-day record and had somewhat randomly chosen Sabina Sabe. It was a great decision and so was yesterday’s return. I began with the Crema de mejillones al vino blanco con crotones de pan amarillo (Cream of mussels in white wine soup with croutons) — not very photogenic, but muy sabrosa. It was followed by…

Trucha en vara, asada con chimichurri de poleo (Trout on a stick grilled with a chimichurri sauce of pennyroyal)

It was my second trout meal in less than two weeks, was cooked to perfection, and the poleo offered an unexpected, but welcome, flavor to the chimichurri. Have I mentioned, how much I love how Oaxaca Sabe affords being exposed to new restaurants and the way their chefs combine and create with familiar and new (to me) ingredients? My dessert, was another yummy delight…

Dulce Istmeño de yuca y piña con cada y coulis de zarzamoras (Dessert from Isthmus of Tehuantepec of yucca and pineapple with blackberry coulis)

Today, I was up early for this year’s fifth Viernes del Llano promenade and competition, where I again rendezvoused with Chris. Once it was over, we walked up to El Asador Vasco Plaza Parque in Colonia Reforma for a Oaxaca Sabe desayuno (breakfast). Seated on their terrace, amidst the chatter and laughter of other patrons, we were quickly provided with coffee and jugo primavera (spring fruit juice).

Our first course of copa de yogurt con fruta y granola (yogurt with fruit and granola) was layered in a wine goblet, with small bowl of honey and honey dipper to the side. It was lovely to look at, but after an hour and a half of taking photos of the young women parading around the statue of Benito Juárez in Llano Park, neither one of us remembered to take out our cameras until we had finished it. However, we were camera-ready for our main course…

Huevos César (Bacon coddled egg on a potato pancake served of a bed of greens)

Coffee was refilled and the final and sweet course arrived. Though I’d already eaten more than I ever eat for breakfast, I did manage a few bites of the panqué de naranja con mermelada de la casa (Orange cake served with a red fruit marmalade). The entire meal was a delicious way to start the day!

Mañana? Who knows where Oaxaca Sabe will take us…

Posted in Culture, Food, Restaurants, Travel & Tourism | Tagged El Asador Vasco, El Olivo, food, food festival, Mexico, Oaxaca, Oaxaca Sabe, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, restaurant week, restaurants, Sabina Sabe | 2 Comments »

Oaxaca Sabe again so soon?

March 9, 2016 by spixl

Early this morning, I bid my BFF a fond farewell after a fun, freezing (more about that another day), and food filled two weeks. Delicious dining options are few and far between in her neck of the woods — the Kenai Peninsula of Alaska. So, the aforementioned cooking class and restaurants were at the top of her list. We made the most of her time here with comidas at Biznaga, Las Quince Letras, Restaurante Catedral, and Zandunga, along with some tasty street food up in the mountains in Capulalpam and Llano Grande (the chilly part of her visit).

And, as luck and good timing would have it, Oaxaca Sabe (Oaxaca’s version of restaurant week) opened two days ago. Thus, it was Tres Bistro on Monday. She had the “Aire” (Air) and I had the “Mar” (Sea) menu. All of our choices were prepared and presented to perfection and left both of us stuffed and smiling.

Rollitos de salmón al eneldo (Salmon rolls with dill cream cheese)

Captura del día rellena de mariscos (Fish of the day stuffed with seafood)

Panna cotta de coco con coulis de jamaica (Coconut panna cotta with a coulis of hibiscus flowers)

Tuesday, we had planned to go to Casa Crespo but when we arrived at 3 PM, they explained the Oaxaca Sabe menu would not be ready until 6 PM, because they were conducting a cooking class. There were rumblings coming from our stomachs and BFF had to finish packing, so we opted not to wait and, instead, took ourselves to La Olla. We ran into chef/owner Pilar Cabrera as we arrived, were seated upstairs, and were greeted from across the room by expat foodie friends, who were also enjoying the Oaxaca Sabe menu.

BFF began with the Ensalada de tomates criollos, quintoniles cenizos, arúgula y aderezo de tomate riñon (salad of native tomatoes, native Mexican greens, arugula, with a tomato dressing) and I had the Sopa de garbanzo (garbanzo bean soup). I was expecting a heavier creamy blender soup, but this was an extremely light and flavorful broth. However, it wasn’t very photogenic, so I will leave it to your imagination. On the other hand, my main course and dessert both looked lovely and tasted yummy.

Camarones al mojo de chile meco (Shrimp with dried smoked chiles)

Panacotta de tejate (Tejate flavored pana cotta)

By the way, BFF raved that her main course of Amarillo con flores de calabaza rellenas de requesón (Squash blossoms stuffed with cheese in a yellow mole sauce) had the lightest tempura-like batter she had ever tasted.

Oaxaca Sabe again so soon? Yippee!!! Today, I’m off to El Olivo with another friend. I’ll keep you posted…

Posted in Culture, Food, Restaurants, Travel & Tourism | Tagged food, food festival, La Olla, Mexico, Oaxaca, Oaxaca Sabe, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, restaurants, Tr3s 3istro, Tres Bistro | 4 Comments »

Women of the world

March 8, 2016 by spixl

Wishing all my sisters, whoever and wherever you may be, a happy International Women’s Day. The struggle continues, because…

San Juan Guelavia, January 2016

From an article today:

An estimated 120 million girls and women under the age of 20 have been subjected to forced sexual intercourse or other forced sexual acts – around 10 per cent.

More than a third of women worldwide have also experienced physical or sexual violence at some point in their lives, with this being most common between a woman’s teenage years and menopause.

Meanwhile, nearly a quarter of a billion more women are in the global workforce today than a decade ago, but they are only earning what men did in 2006, according to the World Economic Forum.

And one in 10 married women are not consulted by their husbands on how their own cash earnings will be spent.

Posted in Culture, Economics, History, Holidays, Labor, Travel & Tourism | Tagged Día de la Mujer, Día Internacional de la Mujer, International Women's Day, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, San Juan Guelavia, women, women's rights | Leave a Comment »

Bougainvilleas, aguas & Good Samaritans

March 4, 2016 by spixl

If it’s the fourth Friday of Lent and you are in Oaxaca, it must be Día de la Samaritana — a wonderful “only in Oaxaca” celebration. From bougainvillea decorated stands in doorways throughout the city and banquet tables lining the Alcalá in front of Templo de la Preciosa Sangre de Cristo…

… divinely flavored aguas frescas made with fresh fruits and flowers — jamaica, horchata, chilacayota, tamarindo, among other colorful and refreshing beverages — were offered.

Día de la Samaritana is inspired by the Gospel of John story in the New Testament: At noon, a tired and, apparently, thirsty Jesus, on his way to Galilee, asks a Samaritan woman at Jacob’s Well in Sychar for some water. His request was highly unusual because, according to the Old Testament, “Jews regarded the Samaritans as foreigners and their attitude was often hostile.” The woman complied with his request and the rest is history.

For me, the day embodies the warm, welcoming, and generous spirit of the people of Oaxaca. It’s just another reason why I love living in Oaxaca.

Posted in Beverages, Celebrations, Culture, Food, Religion, Travel & Tourism | Tagged bougainvillea, bugambilia, Día de la Samaritana, Día de las Aguas, Good Samaritan day, Lent, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations | 4 Comments »

Cooking with Hope

March 2, 2016 by spixl

My BFF (since age twelve) has briefly escaped Alaska’s winter to spend two weeks with me in Oaxaca. A couple of things happen when I have out-of-town guests. The first is that blog posts are few and far between. The second is the reason why. It’s because I’m too busy going places and doing things that I’ve always wanted to do! Thus, a couple of days ago we walked down to the zócalo to meet Agustín of Cooking Classes Oaxaca.

After all six budding Oaxaca street food cooking students had gathered, we proceeded to mercados Benito Juárez and 20 de noviembre to begin our lessons in products and cleanliness. We then hailed a couple of taxis to take us up to Colonia Reforma to our classroom for the day, where we gingerly wound our way up the narrowest and steepest spiral staircase I have ever encountered.

Once at the top, we were introduced to our teacher Esperanza (“Hope” in English), shown where the beer was stocked, and oriented to the many types of chiles we would be using. Then commenced the hands-on work, beginning with making two salsas (verde and rojo), guacamole, and chicken tinga.

Next up was making tortillas. We mixed the masa placed a “3-finger” size ball onto the tortilla press, pressed, turned, pressed, turned, pressed, turned and removed our thin and perfectly shaped tortilla. Piece of cake! However, the most difficult task of the day was yet to come. Believe it or not, laying the tortilla on a very hot comal proved to be incredibly challenging for most (not all) of us. Holes and wrinkles happened more often than not, but Esperanza provided patient and gentle guidance and encouragement and occasionally we were rewarded with a nicely puffed tortilla.

Esperanza

Following a brief snack of chicken tinga wrapped in our freshly-made tortillas, we turned our attention to quesadillas filled with epazote leaves, flor de calabaza (squash blossoms), a sliver of jalapeño, and a generous pinch of shredded quesillo. We then folded, fried, and topped each with guacamole, chapulines (grasshoppers), guaje seeds, and queso fresco. We took our creations out onto a table thoughtfully set on the rooftop with tablecloth, utensils, glasses, and a bottle of water. Ooops, that wasn’t water, it was mezcal!!! By the way, if we had cooked our quesadillas on a dry comal, they would have been called empanadas. Either way, they were light, tender, and delicious!

Once fed and refreshed, we returned to the kitchen for the day’s crowning achievement — mole coloradito. We separated various types of dried chiles from their seeds, added pinches and “lady” handfuls of herbs, spices, nuts, onions, garlic, ginger, raisins, and more to a pan to sauté. However, I admit, we all fled the room when Esperaza began cooking the chiles, but returned for the blending, stirring, and simmering.

Once Esperanza discovered one of our class members was a vegetarian, she adapted a portion of each recipe for her. Thus, while the carnivores among us prepared and savored chicken bathed in a silky smooth chicken broth-based red mole, our vegetariana dined on a equally divine water-based red mole enchilada.

As rave Trip Advisor reviews attest, our smiling and satisfied group was not alone — there have been many happy customers. The handwriting was on the wall…

Agustín Canseco

By the way, for my Bay Area friends and relations, Agustín used to cook at the Hayes Street Grill, Zuni Cafe, and Vicolo Pizza, among other popular San Francisco restaurants.

Tomorrow, BFF, several friends and neighbors, and I head out for a day of mezcal tasting. Hmmm… I wonder how long it will take to work that into a blog post?