A regalito (little gift) to my calaca and calavera loving grandson from today’s visit to Villa de Zaachila for their first Feria del Pan de Muerto, Mole, Chocolate y Espuma.
From murals along the outer side of the panteón (cemetery) in Villa de Zaachila. Click to enlarge images.
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Holidays, Travel & Tourism | Tagged calacas, Day of the Dead, Día de los Muertos, Mexico, murals, Oaxaca, photos, popular travel destinations, skulls, street art, Villa de Zaachila, wall art | 2 Comments »
This morning, on the way to my Oaxaca Lending Library cataloging shift (once a librarian, always a librarian), I made a detour through Jalatlaco, where the murals always give one pause.
I was on my way to Clinica Hospital Florencia to check on my 92 year old neighbor who had a pacemaker installed yesterday afternoon (once a nurse, always a nurse).
Like Oaxaca, she is strong…
She is proud…
And, she is back home after only 24 hours and feeling GREAT!!!
Posted in Creativity, Culture, Travel & Tourism | Tagged art, Barrio de Jalatlaco, Mexico, murals, Oaxaca, photos, popular travel destinations, Spray Kings, street art, wall art | 11 Comments »
Today the sun (finally) came out and hundreds (thousands?) of pots of cempasúchil (aka, cempoalxóchitl, cempaxochitl, cempoal, zempoal, flor de muertos) arrived in the city center.
This was a photo op not only for yours truly but also the local press, as they trailed after the wife of Oaxaca’s governor while she viewed the unloading…
and planting of the iconic Día de los Muertos flowers in the beds of the Zócalo and Alameda.
The color and fragrance of the cempasúchil provide a lovely setting to sit and contemplate the world (and check your cell phone).
Oaxaca is putting on her best to welcome her difuntos (deceased) along with the thousands of tourists who will soon be arriving.
Posted in Celebrations, Culture, Flora, Holidays, Travel & Tourism | Tagged cempasúchil, Day of the Dead, Día de los Muertos, Día de Muertos, flowers, marigolds, Mexico, Oaxaca, photos, zócalo | 6 Comments »
Not all cotton bolls are white…
Roberta French, who built my apartment complex in Oaxaca many decades ago, established a textile weaving business and planted coyuche (koyuchi), a natural brown cotton. She is no longer with us, but her plant survives and grows up onto my balcony. This time of year, the yellow, pink, and rose flowers bloom, die, form pods, and brown cotton fluff results.
And the results? Here, at my apartment complex, the plant is solely decorative. However, the traditional way of growing, spinning, and weaving brown cotton is still practiced in some communities in coastal Oaxaca, Mexico. And, I have been lucky enough to have been gifted an old huipil woven of coyuche and acquired a new one at an expo-venta here in Oaxaca city. If you would like more information on coyuche and its cultivation and weaving, I recommend checking out the Katyi Ya’a collective.
Posted in Agriculture, Casita Colibrí, Creativity, Flora, Gardens, Textiles, Travel & Tourism | Tagged algodón, Casita Colibrí, cotton, cotton bolls, coyuche, flowers, garden, Katyi Ya'a, photos, plants, textile traditions, textiles | 10 Comments »
It’s been fifty years since two African American US Olympic medalists, Tommie Smith and John Carlos, cast their eyes downward and raised clenched fists on the medals’ stand during the playing of the “Star Spangled Banner” (national anthem of the USA) at the 1968 Olympics in Mexico City. Boos and racial epithets were hurled from the stands, both were kicked off the US team, ordered to leave the Olympic Village, and, upon returning to the USA, they received hate mail, death threats and experienced harassment. However, their gesture became iconic and their stance against racial injustice is celebrated the world over, including Oaxaca.
Taller de Gráfica Experimental de Oaxaca, Calle La Noria at Melchor Ocampo, Oaxaca de Juárez
“I don’t have any misgivings about it being frozen in time. It’s a beacon for a lot of people around the world. So many people find inspiration in that portrait. That’s what I was born for.” –John Carlos (The man who raised a black power salute at the 1968 Olympic Games)
What most of the world didn’t see or hear about — because it was conspicuously absent from the covers of the country’s major newspapers — was that two weeks before, in what came to be known as the Tlatelolco Massacre, somewhere between 300 and 2,000 peacefully protesting students in Mexico City were murdered by Mexican military and police forces.
The echos from 1968 continue today… Colin Kaepernick continues to be castigated and denied employment as an NFL football player for taking a knee during the playing of the “Star Spangled Banner” and 43 student teachers from Escuela Normal Rural Raúl Isidro Burgos in Ayotzinapa, whose bus was ambushed in Iguala, Guerrero four years ago, continue to be missing.
Posted in Creativity, Culture, History, Politics, Protests, Violence | Tagged Ayotzinapa, black power clenched fist, Colin Kaepernick, Escuela Normal Rural Raúl Isidro Burgos, graffiti, John Carlos, Mexico, Mexico City, Mexico City Olympics, murals, Oaxaca, Okupa Visual Oaxaca, photos, street art, student teachers, students, Taller de Grafica Experimental de Oaxaca, Tlatelolco Massacre, Tommie Smith, wall art | 11 Comments »
The late rainy season continues, but my garden brings sunshine to a cloudy day.
8:00 AM
5:40 PM
The Stephanotis floribunda reaches for the sky and brings the light.
Posted in Casita Colibrí, Flora, Gardens | Tagged flowers, garden, Mexico, Oaxaca, photos, plants, Stephanotis floribunda, terrace garden, vines | 2 Comments »
Monday afternoon, in the middle of a fiesta at the home of Danza de la Pluma danzante Juan Pablo González Gutiérrez, a torrential downpour came to Teotitlán del Valle.
As I’ve mentioned, rain has been scarce this rainy season — a serious situation for a community that relies on subsistence farming.
So, despite the fact that the dirt road in front of the house became a muddy rushing river and festivities had to be put on hold for awhile as rain blew in through openings in the tented patio, this deluge was good news and people were smiling.
Everyone, including Juan Pablo, waited patiently for the life-giving rain to let up.
It eventually did and he was able to dance.
On a wet patio, surrounded by 100+ proud family members, fellow danzantes, and guests, he performed his solo dance.
Blogger buddy Chris and I felt so incredibly honored to have been invited. It was a truly memorable experience that we will treasure always. Muchisimas gracias to Juan and his family and all the members of the Danza de la Pluma Promesa 2016-18 for being so warm and welcoming to us over the past couple of years. We are going to miss you!
Posted in Celebrations, Culture, People, Travel & Tourism, Weather | Tagged dancers, Danza de la Pluma, danzantes, Mexico, Oaxaca, photos, popular travel destinations, rain, Teotitlán del Valle, traditions, Zapotec culture | 2 Comments »
Yesterday morning…
Cleistocactus
There are days when light and shadows paint the garden and I sigh at Mother Nature’s artistry.
Posted in Casita Colibrí, Flora, Gardens | Tagged cactus, Cleistocactus, flowers, gardens, Mexico, Oaxaca, photos | 13 Comments »
While the caption says, “Welcome to Oaxaca,” those clenched fists raised in protest illustrate how the overwhelming majority of women in the United States feel today.
New mural at the corner of Allende and Tinoco y Palacios by Gran OM, Chauiztle Stencil, and Kloer Kloerk.
Posted in Creativity, Culture, Travel & Tourism | Tagged Chauiztle Stencil, Gran OM, Kloer Kloerk, Mexico, murals, Oaxaca, street art, wall art | 3 Comments »
At the risk of alienating readers who were drooling with envy over yesterday’s Chiles en nogada post, I bring you today’s lunch. This time I was dining with friends, which makes already delicious food taste even better.
Tres cocinera (3 cooks): Celia Florian, Carina Santiago, Kalisa Wells
Comida at Las Quince Letras where mis amigas Carina Santiago of restaurant and gallery Tierra Antigua in Teotitlán del Valle, Kalisa Wells (cocinera and new neighbor), and I were joined by the restaurant’s delightful owner/chef and ambassador extraordinaire of Oaxaca gastronomy, Celia Florian. (An aside: Celia and I were on the same flight from Mexico City to Oaxaca on Saturday night and I apologize to the other passengers for briefly blocking the aisle as we greeted each other with hugs.)
Appetizer of Garnachas Istmeña
Aguacate relleno
Chile de agua vinagreta
Dessert of warm pastel de elote
What a delicious and delightful way to spend my second day back home in Oaxaca.
Posted in Food, People, Restaurants, Travel & Tourism | Tagged Celia Florian, cocinceras, food, Las Quince Letras, Mexico, Oaxaca, photos, restaurants, Tierra Antigua, women cooks | 5 Comments »
I returned to Oaxaca very late last night and just in the nick of time. As I previously noted, chiles en nogada is prepared during the month of September — El Mes de la Patria celebrating Mexico’s independence from Spain — and I was keeping my fingers crossed that it would still be available. Thus, today (the LAST day of September) on my way back from Mercado Benito Juárez (a necessary restocking the empty larder shopping trip), when I saw the prominent “chiles en nogada” sign in front of Restaurante Catedral and heard the hostess explain to a small group of tourists that today was the last day they would be serving it, I had to seize the opportunity.
Just color me happily sated by the green, white, and red of the poblano chile stuffed with a special fruit and meat picadillo, blanketed with a smooth slightly sweet walnut sauce, and garnished with parsley and pomegranate seeds. So, mis amig@s (you know who you are) you are off the hook!
Posted in Celebrations, Food, Holidays, Travel & Tourism | Tagged Chiles en Nogada, El Mes de la Patria, Mexican Independence, Mexico, Oaxaca, patriotic decorations, photos, popular travel destinations, Restaurante Catedral | 3 Comments »
Four years and two days ago, 43 student teachers from Escuela Normal Rural Raúl Isidro Burgos in Ayotzinapa, Guerrero were disappeared in a violent attack on their bus in Iguala. They still haven’t been found, their families still grieve, and anger surrounding the lack of truth, transparency, and justice continues.
“For mothers who mourn empty graves for children who never returned”
In June of this year, a federal court ordered the creation of a truth and justice commission to undertake a new investigation but the current government has appealed the order. However, two days ago, on the anniversary of their disappearance, Mexico’s new president-elect, Andrés Manuel López Obrador (AMLO), met with relatives and representatives of the missing students and vowed to discover the truth and implement the court order. Expectations are high, but skepticism remains.
Posted in Creativity, Culture, Politics, Tragedy, Violence | Tagged Ayotzinapa, disappeared, Escuela Normal Rural Raúl Isidro Burgos, Guerrero, Iguala, Mexico, Oaxaca, photos, stencil art, street art, student teachers, URTARTE, wall art | 2 Comments »
I have returned to my hometown for my 50th high school reunion. (How could I possibly be that old?!) Whenever I come up to the USA, I make a point of bringing a little Oaxaca love with me. So, this trip I brought my three newest textile treasures to wear.
First, a modern asymmetric take on a traditional huipil — designed, dyed, and woven on a backstrap loom by Moisés Martínez Velasco from San Pedro Cajonos in the Villa Alta region of the Sierra Norte. Villagers cultivate and harvest the silk worms and spin the silk used in making this beautiful piece.
I also packed a recently purchased traditional blusa from the Mixtec village of San Pablo Tijaltepec. The blouses from this village are made from cotton manta and hand-embroidered with images of birds, animals, plants, and elements of nature in geometric patterns. The blouses take up to one and a half months to make. I wore it to the reunion picnic on Sunday and it received several compliments.
And, last but not least, I brought this elegant silk huipil with cotton chain-stitch hand embroidery designed by celebrated poet, Natalia Toledo. Honoring the traditional huipiles of her birthplace in Juchitán de Zaragoza in the Isthmus of Tehuantepec region of Oaxaca, yet bringing her own design esthetic to her label Teka, this woman of many talents works with seamstresses and embroiderers from the Isthmus and Central Valleys of Oaxaca to create one-of-a-kind pieces. I wore this to Saturday night’s reunion at the base of the Golden Gate Bridge beside the San Francisco Bay — and it was perfect!
Besides the designs, colors (lately, I seem to be binging on burgundy), and handmade aspect of the work, I especially appreciate that I was able to meet and purchase each piece directly from its creator.
Posted in Creativity, Culture, People, Textiles, Travel & Tourism | Tagged blouses, blusa, clothing, huipil, indigenous textiles, Mexico, Moisés Martínez Velasco, Natalia Toledo, Oaxaca, photos, San Pablo Tijaltepec, San Pedro Cajonos | 4 Comments »
The gods…
and superheroes like El Chapulín Colorado have had their day.
Today, the walls of Oaxaca remind us that it is journalists who are on the front lines — uncovering truth, advocating for justice, and often paying with their lives.
“Cuando un pais tiene ganas de gritar hay personas que no pueden callar.” (When a country wants to scream there are people who cannot remain silent.) — the late Mexican journalist, Javier Valdez.
Journalists in the USA, are you listening?
Posted in Creativity, Culture, Travel & Tourism | Tagged El Chapulín Colorado, graffiti, Javier Valdez, journalists, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, stencil art, street art, wall art | 6 Comments »
On September 16, Mexico celebrates Día de la Independencia — marking Father Hidalgo’s call to arms (Grito de Dolores) to begin the ten-year war for independence from Spain. However, the entire month of September is El Mes de la Patria (the month of the homeland) and streets and vendor stalls are awash with the green, white, and red of the Mexican flag.
Last week, walking down to Mercado Benito Juárez to pick up a few last-minute regalitos (little gifts) to bring up to family and friends in el norte, within two blocks I saw…
There is even a very yummy green, white, and red patriotic dish that appears in restaurants in September — Chiles en nogada. I’m hoping it will still be on the menu when I return at the end of the month from the el norte trip.
Posted in Celebrations, Culture, Holidays, Travel & Tourism | Tagged Chiles en Nogada, El Mes de la Patria, Mexican Independence Day, Mexico, Oaxaca, patriotic decorations, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, street vendors | 8 Comments »
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