Since I went to the market today and we are on the topic of murals in Oaxaca…
The Calle Porfirio Díaz entrance to my “go to” Mercado Sánchez Pascuas has undergone a make-over to commemorate the 487th anniversary of the elevation of Oaxaca de Juárez to the status of city.
On April 25 (Oaxaca’s official birthday) city officials, market Board of Directors, and the artists gathered for the mural’s inauguration and ceremonial ribbon cutting.
Javier Santos, professor of sculpture at the Taller de Artes Plásticas Rufino Tamayo, explained that the mural represents a collection of symbolic images, contextualizing life in the city and market. How many of these symbols (many Prehispanic) do you recognize?
Javier Santos continued, “It is important that there is availability and openness on the part of the Municipal Government to bring people the great talent of Oaxacan artists through the exhibition of works in public spaces, because in them people have the opportunity to visualize the graphic quality of our state.” (Google translation)
Here is to the artists! May the magic of their creativity continue to illuminate the past, find truth in the present, and inspire the future.
And, let us hope the city of Oaxaca will see more mural construction and less mural destruction.
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Markets, Travel & Tourism | Tagged Mercado Sánchez Pascuas, Mexico, murals, Oaxaca, Oaxaca 487th anniversary, Oaxaca 487th birthday, photos, popular travel destinations, street art, symbolic images, Taller de Artes Plásticas Rufino Tamayo, wall art | 3 Comments »
Even if you’re dreaming of sitting on a beach with a book and glass of wine in hand, there are reminders that one hundred years ago, on April 10, 1919, Mexican revolutionary hero Emiliano Zapata was assassinated.
In southern Mexico, in the words of Lila Downs, Zapata Se Queda (Zapata Stays) and remains a beloved martyr who continues to inspire.
And, to remind all to never forget, and continue the struggle. The cry of “not one more” echos from the streets.
Mural on the wall of Taller-Galeria Siqueiros on Calle Porfirio Díaz.
Posted in Creativity, Culture, History, Music, Travel & Tourism | Tagged Armarte, Emiliano Zapata, graffiti, Lila Downs, Mexico, murals, Oaxaca, photos, song Zapata Se Queda, street art, Taller-Galeria Siqueiros, urban art, URTARTE, wall art | Leave a Comment »
If one lives in Oaxaca long enough, the probability is high that you have purchased at least one piece of barro rojo pottery from the women of San Marcos Tlapazola. Goodness knows, I have over the years — lunch plates, pitchers and urns, small decorative dishes for salsa, and, of course, a comal. Alas, it’s hard to resist just another piece or two and so blogger buddy Chris (whose collection of barro rojo FAR exceeds mine) and I headed to San Marcos (44 km southeast of the city) last Sunday for the second day of their Esplendor Del Barro Rojo fair.
Oh, the pottery!
Women of San Marcos Tlapazola.
Red clay pottery and performance watchers.
Divinely light and flavorful higadito.
The temptation of red clay pottery.
The dignity and pride of an accomplished artisan (and fashionista).
It was a feast of pottery, food, music, dance, textiles, and warm and welcoming people. What more could anyone want on a Sunday afternoon? And, yes, I did buy a piece or two.
Posted in Creativity, Culture, Travel & Tourism | Tagged artisan fairs, barro rojo, Esplendor del barro rojo, Mexico, Oaxaca, photos, popular travel destinations, pottery, red clay, San Marcos Tlapazola | 4 Comments »
Yesterday, the village of Teotitlán del Valle and its Comité del Museo Comunitario (Community Museum Committee) welcomed the public to the inauguration of the first phase of the restoration of the archaeological zone beneath the Templo de la Preciosa Sangre de Cristo. Before the arrival of the Spanish, the area had been a Zapotec ceremonial plaza.
Before: Teotitlán del Valle archeological site, December 2013
A little background: In 1553, Oaxaca’s Archbishop Albuquerque ordered the demolition of all Zapotec structures, including those in Teotitlán del Valle. And, as was the practice of the day, in 1581 the Dominican friars began building their church atop the original Zapotec ceremonial complex.
During: Teotitlán del Valle archeological site restoration, February 2019
They scavenged building materials from the Zapotec site (some can be seen in the exterior walls of the church) and tried to erase all evidence of the rich and complex belief system that was already in place.
During: Sidewalk supervisor dog keeps an eye on the restoration work at the Teotitlán del Valle archeological site, February 2019.
As regular readers of my blog know, I visit Teotitlán often and am always amazed at the construction projects that pop up — new buildings, additions to homes, and street repairs. However, this past February, when touring out-of-town friends around Teotitlán, I was surprised to see work being done in the archeological zone.
During: Teotitlán del Valle archeological site restoration, February 2019. Note the numbered pieces.
After three years of effort to obtain the necessary permits from the INAH (National Institute of Anthropology and History), the work on the restoration of the “basement” began in January 2019. The end goal is to reclaim, rehabilitate, and restore the Prehispanic Zapotec ceremonial complex. Teotitlán’s site is concurrent with nearby Mitla, thus the presence of grecas, the fretwork that characterizes the site 15 miles to the southeast.
After: Teotitlán del Valle archeological site restoration inauguration day, April 22, 2019.
I’m looking forward to what the next phase will reveal! By the way, as is the custom in Teotitlán, this major civic event included not only speeches by gathered dignitaries, but also a procession, a performance of dances from the Danza de la Pluma, food, and a concert.
Posted in Archaeology, Celebrations, Culture, Travel & Tourism | Tagged archaeological zone, Mexico, Oaxaca, photos, popular travel destinations, restoration work, Teotitlán del Valle, Zapotec ceremonial plaza | 10 Comments »
Late afternoon on Viernes Santo (Good Friday), images of Jesús and María gathered, blessings were offered, and all began to assemble on the Alcalá for the Procession of Silence.
Inside Templo de la Preciosa Sangre de Cristo, as the Archbishop called upon the people to reflect on the day and improve as people.
Nuestra Señora de la Soledad (Our Lady of Solitude) arrives to take her place on the procession route.
Standard bearers line the Alcalá to honor the arrival of the images of María and Jesús.
San Pedro (Saint Peter), the only apostle to arrive.
Jesús waiting in the Templo del Carmen Alto before he ventures out to take his place in the procession.
Another Jesús image emerges from the Templo del Carmen Alto to take his place on the Alcalá for the procession.
El Señor de Esquipulas ventures out onto Calle García Vigil, from the atrium of Templo del Carmen Alto, for his journey to join the procession on the Alcalá.
And now, please keep silent, the procession is approaching.
Posted in Celebrations, Churches, Culture, Holidays, Religion, Travel & Tourism | Tagged Easter, estandartes, Good Friday, Holy Week, Jesus, Mexico, Oaxaca, Pascuas, photos, Procesión del Silencio, Procession of Silence, religious banners, Viernes Santo, Virgin Mary | 2 Comments »
The sounds of this morning’s Santo Viacrusis (Stations of the Cross) moving closer, brought me into the mostly deserted streets before 9:00 AM.
A block away, I found Jesús, La Virgen María, a priest, acolytes, the faithful, and a loudspeaker on the back of a pickup truck.
Led by the children, images of María and Jesús from churches throughout the city had taken to the streets.
Stopping along the way to pray and sing, the solemn throng made their way to the Cathedral for a farewell encounter between Mary and Jesus.
It will be a long day for all concerned. Following the encuentro, they will process back to their churches for a bit of a rest before this evening’s grand Procession of Silence.
Posted in Celebrations, Churches, Culture, Holidays, Religion, Travel & Tourism | Tagged Christianit, Easter, Good Friday, Holy Mother, Holy Week, La Virgen María, Mexico, Pascuas, photos, popular travel destinations, religious images, Semana Santa, Viernes Santo, Virgin Mary | 2 Comments »
It takes 30+ men, doing some heavy lifting, to carry San Salvador, his burro, and Palm Sunday bounty the kilometer between San Antonino Castillo Velasco’s cemetery and village church.
The strength of their devotion.
Posted in Celebrations, Culture, Holidays, Religion, Travel & Tourism | Tagged Christianity, Domingo de Palmas, Domingo de Ramos, Holy Week, men carrying platform, Mexico, Oaxaca, Palm Sunday photos, popular travel destinations, religious celebrations, San Antonino Castillo Velasco, Semana Santa | Leave a Comment »
Yesterday was another special Domingo de Ramos (Palm Sunday) in San Antonino Castillo Velasco. This is a Zapotec village famous for the cultivation of flowers and exquisitely embroidered blouses and dresses, inspired by said flowers. Returning year-after-year, I never cease to be uplifted by the warmth of the people and the bounty they bring to the image of San Salvador sitting atop his little burro outside the panteón. The best of their fruits, vegetables, herbs, livestock, clothing, flowers, and much more are gratefully received by a committee, priced, and later-in-the-day, sold to raise money for a designated project.
A little after noon, San Salvador (his burro now filled to the brim), offerings, and the faithful were blessed by the priest. Fireworks exploded, rhythmic sounds of the traditional teponaxtles (drums) and chirimía (small oboe) sounded, and led by a trail of bougainvillea bracts and the smoke of copal, the litter of San Salvador atop the burro and carried by 30+ men, set off on a journey to the atrium of the church. They were followed by villagers and visitors carrying the remainder of the goods collected — a ritual reenactment of the Biblical story of Jesus entering Jerusalem to celebrate the Passover.
The procession successfully navigated overhead wires above and heeded warnings of “topes” (speed bumps) below. A kilometer down this perilous route, San Salvador and the faithful, young and old, approached the atrium of the church, San Salvador was set on the stage where an outdoor mass was to be said, and on the opposite side, the hand-and-head-carried offerings were to be sold. I cannot begin to express how warm and welcoming the people of San Antonino Castillo Velasco were. Wearing a blusa from San Antonino, that I purchased several years ago, I was smiled upon and, as I was taking photos, officials and other villagers ushered me to the front. Again, I ask, how many magical moments can one person have?
Posted in Celebrations, Culture, Holidays, Religion, Travel & Tourism | Tagged animals, Christianity, Domingo de Palmas, Domingo de Ramos, fruit, herbs, Holy Week, Jesus, livestock, Mexico, Oaxaca, Palm Sunday, photos, popular travel destinations, religious celebrations, San Antonino Castillo Velasco, San Salvador, San Salvador image, Semana Santa | 15 Comments »
Today, the sixth Friday of Lent, Oaxaca honors la Virgen de Dolores (Our Lady of Sorrows). Altars dedicated to her can be found in churches, businesses, and homes. While the altars vary in their presentation, there are several key features (besides an image of the Virgin and candles) that will be found.
Altar to la Virgen de Dolores at Templo del Carmen Alto
Wreaths of cucharilla (aka, Dasylirion, Sotol, desert spoon) — grown in Villa de Etla and the Mixtec region of Oaxaca — represent the crown of thorns of Jesus.
Salvia Hispanica (aka, chia) sprouting from terracotta clay animals decorate altars — seeds which had been blessed on February 2, Día de la Candelaria (Candlemas). According to an article in MexConnect, “Growing greens remind the viewer of the resurrection and renewal of life.” Yes, these are the original Chia Pets!
Ceramic deer covered in chia sprouts on the altar at Templo del Carmen Alto
Bowls of water (often tinted) representing the “sweet tears of Mary” are set among violet colored drapes and flowers — violet being the color associated with Lent.
Altar to la Virgen de Dolores at Huizache, a cooperative store selling Oaxacan crafts and clothing
Lilies, representing purity and chamomile, representing humility and the beauty of body and soul, can be found on altars.
Lilies and chamomile on the altar at Templo del Carmen Alto
According to this article (in Spanish), altars to Our Lady of Sorrows started appearing in Oaxaca in the sixteenth century and her veneration on the sixth Friday of Lent grew from there.
La Virgen de Dolores (Our Lady of Sorrows) at Templo del Carmen Alto
Tonight at Templo del Carmen Alto, there will be a reading of the “Vía Dolorosa” (Way of Sorrows), a concert of sacred music by the Coro de la Ciudad (City Chorus), and a tasting of regional Lenten food. Such is the beginning of Semana Santa (Holy Week) in Oaxaca!
Posted in Celebrations, Churches, Creativity, Culture, Holidays, Religion, Travel & Tourism | Tagged animal figurines, Chia Pets, cucharilla, Día de la virgen de Dolores, flowers, Holy Week, lilies, Mexico, Oaxaca, Our Lady of Sorrows, photos, Semana Santa, virgen de dolores, Virgin of Sorrows | 2 Comments »
We have just had a hint at the rainy season to come. Monday night brought an hours-long torrential downpour with major flooding, trees and telephone lines down, and power outages. The electricity at Casita Colibrí stayed on and all plants in the garden remained upright and intact. However, my street turned into a raging river and water was cascading off the terrace like a waterfall.
Rooftop rain pipes/spouts in Tlacolula de Matamoros
This herd of elephants might have come in handy! Looking up at this scene, I couldn’t help remembering one of my children’s favorite books, “Stand Back,” Said the Elephant, “I’m Going to Sneeze!” — and couldn’t help laughing.
Posted in Buildings, Casita Colibrí, Science & Nature, Travel & Tourism, Weather | Tagged decorative rain spouts, elephant drain pipes, Mexico, Oaxaca, photos, rain storms, terracotta drain pipes, Tlacolula de Matamoros | Leave a Comment »
Today found me (courtesy of blogger buddy Chris) savoring market day in Tlacolula de Matamoros. The Sunday market is one of the oldest continuous tianguis in Mesoamerica, a commercial center for the neighboring communities, and a beehive of energy and activity.
There is food…
Chiles and more
Chickens roasting on an open fire
A bounty of fruit
Necessary cooking equipment, Oaxaca style…
Gourds for measuring and serving, palm fans for fanning the cooking flames, and brushes for moving ingredients about the comal
Metate for grinding corn, chocolate, dyes, etc.
Molcajetes necessary for crushing and grinding herbs, spices, and making the best salsas and guacamole
And, most of all, people…
Poultry shopper and hammock seller
Tortilla vendors
Garlic vendor
Market day in Tlacolula is chicken soup for my soul.
Posted in Culture, Food, Markets, Travel & Tourism | Tagged food, market day, mercados, Mexico, Oaxaca, photos, popular travel destinations, produce, tianguis, Tlacolula de Matamoros, vendors | 4 Comments »
Tonight, the clocks in most of Mexico spring ahead.
However, the flowers are on their own time and the Flor de Mayo (aka, Plumeria, Frangipani) have already begun to bloom.
Posted in Casita Colibrí, Flora, Gardens, Travel & Tourism | Tagged Cee's Flower of the Day, Flor de mayo, flowers, FOTD, frangipani, gardens, Mexico, Oaxaca, photos, plumeria, popular travel destinations | 2 Comments »
There is magic on the walls of Oaxaca.
You never know what you will see when you take another route home.
Posted in Creativity, Culture, Travel & Tourism | Tagged graffiti, Mexico, murals, Oaxaca, photos, popular travel destinations, street art, wall art | 6 Comments »
Even leftover decorations from a Día de la Samaritana agua station in front of an abandoned building are beautiful in their own way.
Seen on García Vigil at the corner of Jesús Carranza.
Posted in Buildings, Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Religion, Travel & Tourism | Tagged abandoned buildings, Black and white photography, Día de la Samaritana, decorations, Mexico, Oaxaca, paper flowers, photos, popular travel destinations | Leave a Comment »
If you are in Oaxaca and it’s the fourth Friday of Lent, it must be Día de la Samaritana, an “only in Oaxaca” celebration. This Day of the Good Samaritan was inspired by the Gospel of John story in the New Testament where a tired and thirsty Jesus, on his way to Galilee, asks a Samaritan woman at Jacob’s Well in Sychar for some water.
Decorating a well outside the Cathedral
Sign proclaiming the day, seen on the Alcalá
His request was highly unusual because, according to the Old Testament, “Jews regarded the Samaritans as foreigners and their attitude was often hostile.” The woman complied with his request and the rest is history.
Scene at the well outside Templo de San José
Live actors waiting to reenact the scene
Celebrating the Good Samaritan in Oaxaca began in the atriums of churches at the end of the 19th century and is a popular and much-loved tradition. Thus I joined thousands of Oaxaqueños and visitors, clutching cups, and wandering from one decorated agua station to another sampling their offerings.
Samaritana station serving nieve at the Municipal Palace
One of scores of agua stations on the Alcalá
People of all ages, from small children to grandparents, lined up at bougainvillea and palm decorated booths in front of churches, restaurants, businesses, schools, and even the city’s municipal office building for the traditional Día de la Samaritana free aguas.
Hand painted ollas in front of Templo de Sangre de Cristo
Hand painted jicara gourds waiting to be filled with tejate
These “water stations” are often decorated in a violet shade of purple, the color of Lent, symbolizing penance and royalty. And, the ollas (pots) holding the aguas seem to get more decorative every year.
Agua stations along the Alcalá
Watermelon and mint agua station on García Vigil
We are not talking plain water, these are divinely flavored aguas frescas made with fresh fruits, herbs, flowers, and more — jamaica (hibiscus), horchata, chilacayote (squash), tamarindo, sandia (watermelon), tejate, and nieve (sorbet). Even taxi drivers played the role of Good Samaritans.
Nieve station in doorway of lingerie store on Independencia
Taxi drivers host agua station on the Alameda
In previous years, the aftermath hath wrought mountains of garbage — cans overflowing with plastic and styrofoam. However, this year, in the name of the environment, an appeal was made for people to bring their own cups. And, I think a majority complied!
On the Alcalá above Santo Domingo
An olla with Agua de chilacayote (type of squash)
And me? After almost two hours, three aguas (watermelon with mint, cucumber with mint, and chilacayote), a nieve of leche quemada and tuna, and being surrounded by smiling people enjoying this celebration of generosity, I returned home with my heart full of love and gratitude for the traditions of Oaxaca.
Posted in Beverages, Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Food, Religion, Travel & Tourism | Tagged agua fresca, bougainvillea, bugambilia, Día de la Samaritana, Good Samaritan day, Lent, Mexico, Oaxaca, photos, popular travel destinations | 14 Comments »
« Newer Posts - Older Posts »
Mexican Peso Converter
View From Casita Colibrí 
