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Magical and mystical…

I don’t have words to express “being” last night in the Panteón of Santa María Atzompa…

Marigolds and tall candles grave

Elderly man and woman in cemetary with candles

Tall candles and flowers in cemetary

Mother holding child, illuminated by candles

Elderly woman bending over grave with tall candles and marigolds

Feeling so incredibly privileged.

Bread of the dead

Pan de muerto is the traditional Days of the Dead sweet yeast bread.  It is decorated and placed on ofrendas (altars), along with candles, flowers, fruit, pictures, mementos, other foodstuffs, and beverages, as offerings to the departed.

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The intricately decorated pan de muerto are from the Tlacolula Valley, and reference the geometric designs and mosaic fretwork found in the archeological sites in and around Mitla, a photo of which I’m using as browser background on this blog.

Rugs of sand…

The tapetes de arena are finished and cover the stone flooring of the Plaza de la Danza.  Always difficult to photograph, the following are an experiment in cropping.

Centro de Educación Artística Miguel Cabrera

Casa de Cultura de Tlacolula de Matamoros

Escuela de Bellas Artes de la Universidad Autónoma Benito Juárez de Oaxaca

Several other organizations participated and among the unsigned are tapetes de arena from Casa de las Artesanías de Oaxaca, Sociedad Civil de Maestros Oaxaqueños del Arte Popular, and Grupo Colectivo Camaleón.

Walk with us…

And for those in el norte…

A happy and safe Halloween!

 

The crescent moon

The crescent moon keeps a watchful eye over the sand paintings in the Plaza de la Danza, by day…

Painting handing on wall above the Plaza de la Danza

and by night…

Crescent moon between the bell towers of San Jose church, in Oaxaca

 

Painting the sand

Work on the Días de Muerto tapetes de arena (sand paintings) began this morning…

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By the way, this year they are in the Plaza de la Danza and, as I write, the music of the Orchestra Infantil Libertad (a children’s orchestra) is serenading the completed tapetes de arena, the audience gathered at the Plaza de la Danza, and yours truly, sitting comfortably at her desk.

Comings and goings…

Tourists are arriving by planes, buses, and automobiles.

Human scupture of palm

The streets, hotels, restaurants, and shops of Oaxaca are filling for los Días de Muertos.   Hopefully, before they depart…

Back view of palm leaf female sculpture

…they will spread a little wealth; and, when they return to their homes, they will sing Oaxaca’s praises.  Alas, their comings and goings won’t be by train.  Passenger train service is no more and the old railroad station opened as the Museo del Ferrocarril Mexicano del Sur in 2003.

And that is where you will find this shapely resident, as you come and go.

 

 

Let there be light!

Apparently, the end result of much of the work noted in my Día de la Raza post is the difference between day…

Workmen atop a cupola of Iglesia de San José against blue sky.

and night…

Lighted cupolas of Iglesia de San José against black night sky.

As fellow blogger Chris revealed, the word around town is… Let there be light!

Decorations have begun going up around town and, at this time of year, La Olla offers the complete dining experience…

Skeleton in pink skirt and feather boa seated on a bench

A warm welcome from the hostess.

Skeleton with sombrero hanging on wall.

Waiters standing ready to take your order.

Day-glo orange butterfly skeleton hanging in a tree.

And, una mariposa hanging out, ready to wish you “¡buen provecho!”

Señor del Rayo

6 AM this morning, I awoke to fireworks and riotously clanging church bells coming from the cathedral, calling my attention to the October 23rd annual fiesta of Señor del Rayo.  Like Guelaguetza, Noche de Rabanós (Night of the Radishes), and Día de la Samaritana (Good Samaritan Day), it is an “only in Oaxaca” celebration.

This image of Christ on the Cross was brought to Oaxaca during the 16th century.  It was placed in the temple of San Juan de Dios, a church which had adobe walls and a straw (or possibly wood) roof.  Legend has it that lightning struck the church and everything was destroyed, save for this statue.  Un milagro!

The statue became known as Señor del Rayo (Lord of Lightning), eventually was moved to his own chapel in the newly built cathedral, and has been much venerated ever since.  However, on October 21, in anticipation of his special day, the statue is moved to the main altar of the cathedral, the cathedral is filled with lilies (the scent “breathtaking”), and the faithful flock to pray before Señor del Rayo.

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Flowers are daily sprayed with water, to keep them fresh… BUT, as the signs say, please do not uproot and carry them away.

Name that flag

Another brilliant blue sky day…

Purple, white, and red flag flying atop Santo Domingo

But where did that purple, white, and red flag on top of Santo Domingo de Guzmán come from???

End of rainy season?

Hmmm, no rain for a week, cool nights, and warm, clear blue-sky days.  Even concrete boxes beg for a photo…

Concrete boxy buildings against clear blue sky.
I’m thinking the rainy season has ended!

Meeting Points…

Strolling up Macedonio Alcalá on Sunday, I stumbled on an exhibit and workshop being set up in the middle of this walking street, courtesy of Puntos de Encuentro, Primer Festival de Artes Visuales Oaxaca 2011 (Meeting Points, the First Visual Arts Festival, Oaxaca 2011).

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Reason number ??? (I’ve lost count) why I love Oaxaca!!!

World Food Day

October 16 is World Food Day, as declared by the Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations. A headline from the front page of today’s Noticias announces, Oaxaca: 77%, con hambre, meaning 77% of the Oaxacan population have problems with receiving adequate nutrition.

Mother seated on sidewalk, holding child, begging.
The article further explains that according to the National Institute of Medical Sciences and Nutrition (INNSZ), at 34%, Oaxaca is the Mexican state with the highest rate of child malnutrition. The consequences are children who suffer from iron deficiency anemia, fatigue, apathy, extreme thinness, spots on the face, breathing problems, infections, and diarrhea.

Update:  A couple more articles…

 

 

Global Day of Action

A Global Day of Action, in solidarity with Occupy Wall St. has been called for tomorrow, October 15.  According to a current tally, demonstrations will be held in 950+ US cities and 80+ countries, the latter including Mexico City.   Who knows what will unfold in Oaxaca, where occupations, marches, and road blocks are an almost daily event.

Si no te oyen haz que te vean, #15o, monumento a la revolucion, 12 hrs., Ciudad de MexicoConfession:  This is personal… I’m one of the 99% and lost my job as a result of the economic collapse brought about by the voracious, unconscionable, and unbridled greed of US capitalism.  Heck, even in my old ‘hood, more than 200 ‘Occupy Marin’ protesters demonstrated in front of Bank of America a few days ago.  It’s one of the few times, I wish I was still in El Norte, so I could participate.

BTW, the poster art and slogans coming out of this movement are awesome!  Take a look at the following sites:

If you don’t hear us, can you see us???

Día de la Raza in Oaxaca

Today is Día de la Raza (Day of the Race) in Mexico. A stroll around town revealed…

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Like almost everyday in Oaxaca, La Raza are working incredibly hard!