Posted in Celebrations, Culture, Travel & Tourism, tagged Día del Padre, Father's Day, fathers and children, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos on June 15, 2013| 6 Comments »
It’s the annual fathers (and a couple of grandfathers) of Oaxaca slideshow… I never tire of seeing these guys with their hijas and hijos.
To loving and responsible fathers everywhere, may you continue to do what you do. And a special shout-out to my son!
Posted in Creativity, Culture, People, Travel & Tourism, tagged art, artists, Gorilla Gallery, graffiti artists, Mexico, murals, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, Sanez, street art, urban art on June 10, 2013| 4 Comments »
One can see his art all over the city. I’d first been wowed by the scale, symbolism, and style of his work early last year, when walking up Matamoros to meet a friend who was staying at Hotel Azucenas. At Calle Prof. M. Aranda, I was stopped dead in my tracks — the entire front of the building next to the hotel had been transformed. Using a roller, not brush or spray can, the artist known as Sanez turned it into a work of art.
In September 2012, Sanez again worked his magic on this tired old building — this time creating “El Canto del Agua” (The Song of Water). According to the article, Mesoamerican Peoples Express their Solidarity by Jonathan Treat, using “symbols of the Aztec god of rain, fertility and water—Tláloc, and corn, forests, animals, campesinos and campesinos and traditional Oaxaca fiestas… Sánez honors indigenous peoples struggling to defend their territories: [The mural is] ‘Dedicated to the peoples who organize to defend their commons and the common good—Mexico and Canada.’”
Another close encounter with the work of Sanez occurred last month when I ventured across Republica into Barrio de Jalatlaco. Besides its un-city-like tranquility and quaint tree-lined, but treacherous, cobblestone streets, this bucolic neighborhood always has great street art. However, I didn’t expect to find the restaurant, Fuego y Sazón, playing host to the unmistakeable style of Sanez. Wow!
And then… Just a few days before this current trip to California, I was at Gorilla Gallery (Crespo 213) talking to Jason Pfohl (glass artist and guiding spirit behind Gorilla Glass) when Sanez came in. He came to discuss plans for his live painting on glass event at the gallery. Alas, I was already in the US on May 31, when it occurred. However, if you are currently in Oaxaca, you can see the finished piece at the gallery on Thursdays between 2 and 8 PM. Besides the immense glass canvas, the gallery is featuring prints by Sanez — and I’m sure Jason would be happy to discuss the distinctive tattoo work of Sanez.
In addition, you might want to slow down when driving along Constituyentes behind Mercado de Abastos — that giant billboard mural towering above the weeds and refuse is another of Sanez’s masterpieces.
Posted in Creativity, Culture, Food, Markets, People, tagged artesania, California, Casa Oaxaca, Guillermo Robles, Mi Pueblo Food Center, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, store displays on June 7, 2013| 12 Comments »
I’m in the San Francisco Bay Area for a lengthy stay — a necessary trip to el norte to sell my grandparents house. I’ve only been here for three weeks but I’m missing Oaxaca, already! However, driving up Solano Ave. on my way to Berkeley, a storefront caught my eye. Skeletons, tapetes, a riot of color…
Where am I???
Casa Oaxaca is a gift shop featuring arts and crafts from Southern Mexico. Artesanía from Chiapas, Guerrero, Puebla, and (of course) Oaxaca cram every nook and cranny of the store.
Casa Oaxaca’s delightful owner, Guillermo (“Memo”) Robles, was born and raised in the city of Oaxaca and he returns frequently on buying trips. All items are carefully (and lovingly, I think) bought directly from crafts people and artisan collectives.
I stood talking with Memo for almost 30 minutes and, surrounded by the artesanía I have come to know and love, it was almost like being back in my adopted city. Ahhh… If you go, don’t forget to look up!
I’ve also discovered Mi Pueblo Food Center in San Rafael, one of a small, privately owned, chain of supermarkets in Northern California. I came home with Tajin seasoning, a bag of still warm tortillas, a whole roast chicken, quesillo, along with fruit, fresh herbs, vegetables, and a case of Modelo Especial (the latter especially for my son, in whose home I’m staying) — all for a better price than the unnamed, but well-known, big chains. On my next visit, I’ve got to try their tamales.
Posted in Buildings, Creativity, Culture, Exhibitions, Gardens, Travel & Tourism, tagged abandoned buildings, art, art installation, exhibition, hats, Matria Jardín Arterapéutico, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, still life, straw hats on June 2, 2013| Leave a Comment »
Posted in Creativity, Culture, Travel & Tourism, tagged automobiles, cars, I Believe I Can Fly, Lambo doors, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, San Pedro y San Pablo Teposcolula on May 30, 2013| 1 Comment »
Cars in Oaxaca? They range from decrepit VW Beetles held together with duct tape to the latest shiny black tinted windowed SUVs. Most lean toward the former — the cobblestones, potholes, and dirt roads can rapidly speed-up the aging process.
However, like young men worldwide are wont to do, no matter the make and model, Oaxaqueños love to customize their rides. This one caught my eye in San Pedro y San Pablo Teposcolula:
The doors are known as Lambo (after Lamborghini), scissor, butterfly, switchblade, jack-knife and beetle-wing doors. Take your pick! R Kelly song lyrics came to mind:
I believe I can fly
I believe I can touch the sky
I think about it every night and day
Spread my wings and fly away
I believe I can soar
I see me running through that open door
I believe I can fly
By the way, should you too want to install Lambo doors on your car, you can find instructions here. Who knew???
Posted in Creativity, Culture, Violence, tagged graffiti, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, street art, urban art, wall art on May 21, 2013| 2 Comments »
Posted in Celebrations, Culture, Travel & Tourism, tagged Fiesta de Mayo, fiestas, Mexico, Mixe, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, Santa María Tlahuitoltepec, sierra norte on May 15, 2013| Leave a Comment »
The Fiesta de Mayo in Santa María Tlahuitoltepec lasted three days, though we were only there for a few hours on day two. There was to be a rodeo that night — a corral had been set up and bulls were arriving as we were leaving.
A timeless quality… but, not to be mistaken for being frozen in time. We are already making plans to return.
Posted in Celebrations, Culture, Travel & Tourism, tagged Ceremonia del Tepache, Fiesta de Mayo, fiestas, Mexico, Mixe, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, Santa María Tlahuitoltepec, sierra norte on May 14, 2013| 11 Comments »
Saturday, we drove up into the Sierra Norte, to the Mixe region of the state of Oaxaca. Our destination was Santa María Tlahuitoltepec and its Fiesta de Mayo. We had been attracted to their unique women’s traje (costume) by the work of one of the vendors at an artesanía feria in the city a couple of months ago. She invited us to the fiesta and so we went.
After winding our way up mountain roads filled with switchbacks and potholes, we turned off on a dirt road for the final ten minutes of our seventy-six mile journey from the city. We had climbed from 5,100 feet to over 7,800 feet above sea level on our three-hour drive up into pines. The name Tlahuitoltepec is made up of two Nahuatl words — Tlahuitol translates as “arched” and Tepec as “hill.” I can attest, Santa María Tlahuitoltepec is definitely built on a (very steep) “arched hill.” This is the same village that, at the end of September 2010, was hit with a devastating landslide that killed 11 residents, following record rainfall. And, as we drove up to the village, engineering work to repair and reinforce the hillside and road was visible and ongoing.
We weren’t exactly sure where we were going, stopped to ask, and were told to follow the signs to “el centro.” Our first indication that we were headed in the right direction was the sound, quickly followed by the sight, of a band playing and walking in the same direction we were. It was one of three youth bands we saw and heard during our brief stay; music is obviously very important in this remote mountain village. The pueblo plays host to the Center for Musical Training and Development of Mixe Culture and according to this article, an estimated 70% of the population can read music and many who can’t, play by ear.
And, along with music comes dance. Santa María Tlahuitoltepec will be participating in this year’s Guelaguetza in July — and its Ceremonia del Tepache is featured in one of the promotional videos. While there, we watched as a youth exhibition group performed three traditional dances to the appreciative crowd that filled the stands of the municipal court.
The uniqueness of each village never ceases to delight and impress me. You know when you are there, because you couldn’t be anywhere else.
Check out Oaxaca-The Year After for more photos from Saturday’s excursion.
Posted in Creativity, Culture, Travel & Tourism, tagged graffiti, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, street art, street signs, urban art, wall art on May 9, 2013| Leave a Comment »
And now a return to the amazing street art from the walls near Calle de Melchor Ocampo and Calle de La Noria…
Never a dull moment or wall in Oaxaca!
Posted in Culture, Travel & Tourism, tagged Casa Elena, El Picacho, Las Granadas, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, Teotitlán del Valle on May 7, 2013| 7 Comments »
Saturday afternoon, I returned to Teotitlán del Valle with my neighbor Marga for that evening’s world premiere of “La Festividad de los Muertos,” a film documenting Day of the Dead in Teotitlán (more about that in an upcoming post). Transportation back to the city late at night would have been challenging, so it was an ideal excuse to finally spend the night in one of my favorite villages. Marga booked the last room at Casa Elena and I stayed across the street at Las Granadas (both recommended).
Sunday morning, I was awakened by roosters crowing, burros braying, cohetes (all bang, no bling fireworks) exploding, and the sound of a band playing. Breakfast wasn’t to be served until 8:30 am, so I went for an early morning walk.
An enchanting way to begin the day.
Posted in Celebrations, Churches, Culture, Holidays, Religion, Travel & Tourism, tagged Día de la Santa Cruz, El Picacho, Mexico, Oaxaca, popular travel destinations, Templo de la Preciosa Sangre de Cristo, Teotitlán del Valle on May 4, 2013| 7 Comments »
Yesterday (May 3) was Día de la Santa Cruz and in Mexico it is the feast day of construction workers. Crosses are erected on building sites and decorated. The tradition has its origins with the guilds during the colonial era.
However, in Teotitlán del Valle, tradition calls for hiking up to the top of El Picacho. A tall aqua colored wooden cross stands at the top of the peak.
There were two crosses, but apparently one was hit by lightning a week or two ago. It lies in splintered pieces below where it stood.
Mountain and custom beckoned, and so we headed out to Teotitlán yesterday morning to climb the mountain. The trek began and our eyes were on the prize as we passed by irrigated fields…
Along the steep and winding trail, there were signs…
in Zapoteco.
Bromeliads and other epiphytes clung to branches.
All along the way, the views were spectacular.
As we climbed, Templo de la Preciosa Sangre de Cristo grew smaller and smaller.
And, our destination grew closer and closer.
Almost two hours later (we stopped a lot!), we encountered the tethered burros that brought the tamales, aguas, and cervesas that awaited us at the top.
Besides sustenance, there were fireworks…
and expansive and even more spectacular views.
There were parents, teens, toddlers, abuelos…
and abuelas.
Muchisimas gracias to the people of Teotitlán del Valle, who never fail to warmly welcome us and, again, generously offered us food and drink.
They are very special people who live in a very special place.
FYI: The trip down took less than an hour, I returned home exhausted, sore, sunburned (even though I’d slathered on sunscreen), and thoroughly exhilarated.
Posted in Celebrations, Culture, Holidays, Travel & Tourism, tagged basili, children, Children's Day, Children's Guelaguetza, costume, culture, Día de los Niños, Guelaguetza, Infantil Guelaguetza, Mexico, Mixteca, Oaxaca, parade, photographs, photos, traje on April 30, 2013| 8 Comments »
Today is Día de los Niños (Children’s Day) and it’s a big deal here. Oaxaca began her celebrations days ago. The 6th Festival of Children’s Story Telling opened on Saturday, yesterday an exibition of traditional toys (Colección Hanni Sager Juguete tradicional) had its inauguration at the Museo del Palacio, and Friday, the Guelaguetza Infantil calenda filled the streets from Santo Domingo to the Basilica de la Soledad.
As several bands played, the children from Oaxaca’s preschools wearing the traditional costumes from the 8 regions of the state of Oaxaca waited, posed, walked, danced, and threw candy to the appreciative crowds gathered on the sidewalks along the ten-block long route. (Note, some of the little girls already practicing holding canastas (baskets) on their heads!)
Parents and teachers, many also wearing traje from the Cañada, Costa, Istmo, Mixteca, Papaloapan, Sierra Norte, Sierra Sur, and the Valles Centrales regions, proudly walked alongside the children. Vive Oaxaca concluded their article,
With such events from the early years of life are taught to love our Oaxacan culture, traditions, music and preserve the best legacy we have: our roots. Congratulations to the teachers and parent to correctly perform with great momentum this holiday culture. [Google translation]
Posted in Creativity, Culture, Parks & Plazas, Travel & Tourism, tagged Mexico, microphone, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, Plaza de la Danza, speakers on April 28, 2013| 2 Comments »
Plaza de la Danza…
Microphone, speakers, and pigeon…
We are all here…
Where is everyone???
Posted in Creativity, Culture, Language, Music, Travel & Tourism, tagged Chikirriyó'i, colibrí, hummingbird, marble mason, Mexico, Mixteca, music, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations on April 26, 2013| 5 Comments »
Wednesday in the Mixteca…
How could I resist? Photo, yes. Dining, no. We had already eaten and so were not tempted to try Restaurant El Colibrí, across the street. However, still scratching my head about the relationship between marble (marmol) and hummingbird (colibrí).
This librarian couldn’t resist doing a little research. According to Wikipedia, the hummingbird in Aztec culture was, “emblematic for their vigor, energy, and propensity to do work along with their sharp beaks that mimic instruments of weaponry, bloodletting, penetration, and intimacy.” Hmmm… the tools and strength needed by a marble mason. Now, it’s beginning to make sense.
(Thanks Chris for stopping so I could take the above photos.)
And now a song from the Mixteca, “Chikirriyó’i” (“El Colibrí”) (The Hummingbird):
Posted in Agriculture, Buildings, Creativity, Culture, Environment, Gardens, People, Science & Nature, Travel & Tourism, tagged abandoned buildings, art, art installation, earth day, exhibition, Matria Jardín Arterapéutico, Megan Glore, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, Primavera, Seasons, Spring on April 22, 2013| Leave a Comment »
On this Earth Day, I thought I’d post photos of the Matria, Jardín Arterapéutico project. These were taken 3 weeks after my previous visit. Despite 90+° (F) temperatures since the garden was planted, it is thriving and very few plants have been lost.
The key to the garden’s success? Megan Glore and her team of volunteers are listening to what the plants are telling them and responding accordingly — just as we should all be doing with Mother Earth.
Mexican Peso Converter
View From Casita Colibrí 