Even in Oaxaca, when it comes to peluquerias, old is new again…
If you want to see an old, old-school Oaxaca barber shop, check out Chris’s barber.
Archive for the ‘Culture’ Category
Election day in Oaxaca
Posted in Creativity, Culture, Politics, Travel & Tourism, tagged elections, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, urban art on June 5, 2016| 4 Comments »
Today is Sunday, no alcohol can be purchased in Oaxaca, and a federal helicopter has made a pass or two over the city. It’s election day in Oaxaca and 12 other states, plus the Mexico City. Polls don’t close until 6:00 PM, but rumor has it, a PRI victory party is already being set up in the Plaza de la Danza. Hmmm…
Yesterday, on the way to dinner, we stopped to watch the take down of the newly installed sculpture of Jesús in front of Santo Domingo. This shot seems to be a metaphor for today’s election.
Handwriting is on the wall
Posted in Creativity, Culture, Economics, Education, Politics, Protests, Travel & Tourism, tagged Asaro, educational reforms, graffiti, Jaguar Print, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, Seccíon xxII, Seccion 22, stencil art, street art, wall art on May 27, 2016| Leave a Comment »
… between Independencia and Morelos on Garcia Vigil.
That’s Mexico’s president Enrique Peña Nieto, backed by the military, leading the charge against the teachers’ union.
No to the education reform! Only books will draw this country away from barbarism.
My future is in your hands – No to the privatization of education!
To protest is not a crime – No to the education reform
Reforms: Energy – Education – Financial – Electoral – Labor
The occupation of the Zócalo continues; yesterday Sección XXII of the CNTE (teachers’ union) shut down the airport; today a federal helicopter is flying overhead as I write, no doubt keeping tabs on a mass march from the IEEPO (State Institute of Public Education) to the Zócalo; the extremely contentious election for governor of Oaxaca is June 5; Guelaguetza 2016 performances are July 25 and August 1; and the new school year is scheduled to begin in mid August. It could be a long hot summer…
Fool on the wall
Posted in Creativity, Culture, Music, Travel & Tourism, tagged Beku, graffiti, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, street art, The Fool On The Hill lyrics, urban art, wall art on May 23, 2016| Leave a Comment »
Day after day, alone on the [wall]
The man with the foolish grin is keeping perfectly still…
The Fool On The Hill
by Paul McCartney and John Lennon
Day after day, alone on the hill
The man with the foolish grin is keeping perfectly still
But nobody wants to know him
They can see that he’s just a fool
And he never gives an answer
But the fool on the hill
Sees the sun going down
And the eyes in his head
See the world spinning around
Well on the way, head in a cloud
The man of a thousand voices talking perfectly loud
But nobody ever hears him
Or the sound he appears to make
And he never seems to notice
But the fool on the hill
Sees the sun going down
And the eyes in his head
See the world spinning around
And nobody seems to like him
They can tell what he wants to do
And he never shows his feelings
But the fool on the hill
Sees the sun going down
And the eyes in his head
See the world spinning around
He never listens to them
He knows that they’re the fools
They don’t like him
The fool on the hill
Sees the sun going down
And the eyes in his head
See the world spinning around
Cultural callejón
Posted in Creativity, Culture, Religion, Travel & Tourism, tagged artists, Barrio Cayo Hueso, Callejón de Hamel, Cuba, Habana, Havana, murals, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, religious imagery, Salvador González Escalona, Santería, street art, wall art on May 9, 2016| 6 Comments »
Back to Havana… and the colorful and captivating Callejón de Hamel, in Barrio Cayo Hueso. (For a more in depth and fascinating history of this neighborhood, see Neighborhood as Refuge: Community Reconstruction, Place Remaking, and Environmental Justice in the City by Isabelle Anguelovski.)
It was our first full day and serendipity and synchronicity brought us Dayan, an enthusiastic guide with boundless energy and pride.
Without hesitation, Dayan immediately made a beeline to this alley — the creation of self-taught artist, Salvador González Escalona. It is a living, breathing gallery and studio, where artists were welding and painting as we stopped to watch and wonder at their creations.
The cultural character of this community cannot be separated from its religious traditions and practices — a syncretism of African religions brought by slaves and Catholicism brought by the Spanish conquerors. Salvador Gonzáles Escalona explains, “I am talking about the religion known as Santería, which comes from the Yorubas; Palo Monte, which comes from the Congo; Abakuá, which has to do with Calabar [the Cross River Delta in Nigeria]; and maybe some manifestations of spiritism, a cultural expression of working class people, the ordinary folks in our country.”
Callejón de Hamel is also home to a vibrant musical scene. “In this alley many years ago, in the 40’s, a cuban musical movement was born, known as ‘filin,’ songs of feeling, with our friend Angelito Díaz and his now deceased father, Tirso Díaz. There were figures such as Elena Burque, the late Moraima Secada, aunt of Jon Secada, Omara Portuondo [featured in Buena Vista Social Club], César Portillo de la Luz, and many others.” — Salvador Gonzáles
On Sundays, around noon, the street comes alive with musicians, dancers, and the sights and sounds of Cuban rumba. Alas, around that time, we were in the midst of changing hotels. Next time, for sure!
Eyes are watching
Posted in Creativity, Culture, Travel & Tourism, tagged Mexico, murals, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, stencil art, street art, urban art on May 8, 2016| Leave a Comment »
Back in Oaxaca… I don’t know the story of this mural that recently appeared at the corner of Allende and Tinoco y Palacios. However, on this Mother’s Day (in the US), it seems appropriate.
A mother’s eye is always watching…
Whose Paseo de Prado?
Posted in Culture, Economics, Travel & Tourism, tagged Chanel fashion show, Cuba, Habana, Havana, Paseo de Prado, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, street vendors, tourism on May 5, 2016| 4 Comments »
A week and a half ago, we were strolling Havana’s Paseo de Prado. It was a sunny, blue-sky, already hot and humid Saturday morning. Amid the backdrop of crumbling, but not abandoned, buildings, vendors had set up their stalls…
and were ready to sweet talk a tourist or two into buying a tchotchke or three or four.
Locals walked purposefully down the uncrowded promenade.
All was tranquil, save for those gathered on one of the blocks (middle of the image below) to buy and sell properties.
The scene and the people were a far cry and a world apart from the glitz and glamour of the Chanel fashion show staged along that same paseo yesterday. The average monthly wage in Cuba is the equivalent of $20 (US), thus I find the spectacle of European haute couture prancing down the Prado, in the center of Havana, deeply troubling — never mind the exploitative use of stereotypes. Here’s what local Cuban designer, Idania del Rio had to say:
“I think that catwalk is going to be more for Chanel than for Cuba. I don’t know whether the people here in Cuba are ready for this type of product.”
Nevertheless, as a fashion designer she was curious: “I want to see what $40,000 clothing looks like,” she said.
Afterwards, the 33-year-old was not entirely impressed: “It was very interesting and maybe too nostalgic. A lot of Cuban cigars, colours and hats from another era. It represented a Cuba that doesn’t interest me right now, because today’s Cuba is another, more contemporary Cuba.”
I’m glad we weren’t still there; I don’t think I could stomach the over-the-top excess versus the real need we saw around every corner. I don’t know… Does Cuba really want to return to it’s decadent pre-revolutionary role of being playground to the world’s wealthy? Trickle down economics has an abysmal track record, so I’m not sure that it’s the best model for Cuba to follow
Crosses & construction
Posted in Casita Colibrí, Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Holidays, Religion, Travel & Tourism, tagged construction workers, counter construction, Día de la Santa Cruz, Día del Albañil, Flor de mayo, flowers, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, plumeria, popular travel destinations on May 3, 2016| 1 Comment »
This morning, I awoke to the familiar, if startling, sounds of cohetes (rockets). Oh right, it’s Día de la Santa Cruz (Day of the Holy Cross). Alas, no pilgrimage hike up Cerro Picacho for us this year; we are still in recovery from our island adventure AND, more importantly, even at 7:30 AM, it is too darn hot! Have I mentioned Oaxaca has been experiencing 90º – 96º F temperatures for the past month? That’s 10º F above average. Exhausting it is and sweltering we are.
However, before the sun was directly overhead, I returned to Benito Juárez mercado hoping my coffee guy would be there. He wasn’t, but many of the stalls had beautifully decorated alters, fragrant with the sweet scent of flor de mayo (plumeria) blossoms.
In Mexico, it is also Día del Albañil, the feast day of the stonemason/bricklayer/builder because, according to this article (en español):
Before the Conquest, the indigenous Mesoamerican related to the cross with the cardinal directions of the Indian cosmography north, south, east, west and central graphically formed the cross.
With the arrival of the Spaniards, this evocation was eradicated and replaced by religious symbolism of the Holy Cross.
Since then the celebration of this feast with the construction of houses, churches, monasteries, and other buildings with Indian labor was established.
However, Sebastián and Leonardo continued working on my new counter. And, yes, there will be tile!
No place like home
Posted in Creativity, Culture, Markets, Travel & Tourism, tagged 20 de noviembre mercado, art, Aves Sin Paraíso, El pasillo de las carnes asadas, food, graffiti, Mexico, murals, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, stencil art, street art, students, urban art, wall art on May 2, 2016| 4 Comments »
A pause in the Cuba coverage to echo Dorothy, “There’s no place like home” — especially if that home is Oaxaca. I needed (yes, needed!) chocolate and coffee and, thus, headed toward the Benito Juárez and 20 de noviembre mercados. As always, even just a grocery shopping trip is a feast for the senses.
First, a calenda on Calle Independencia of students, academics, and workers to launch the registration of candidates for rector of Universidad Autónoma Benito Juárez de Oaxaca (UAJBO).
A peek into el pasillo de las carnes asadas (ahhh, the smells) in 20 de noviembre mercado, while waiting for my chocolate guy to finish with other customers.
A look at the finished murals (and merchandise) in a newly opened shop at Calle Macedonia Alcalá 100.
Stopping to gaze up at the “Aves Sin Paraíso” exhibition above the Alcalá.
Almost back to Casita Colibrí, a new stencil at the corner of Morelos and Tinoco y Palacios.
By the way, I got the chocolate, but couldn’t find my coffee guy in the maze of temporary stalls set up on the streets surrounding the Benito Juárez mercado (it’s undergoing a much-needed renovation). There’s always mañana — I’m not completely out, yet.
In the words of José Martí
Posted in Books, Creativity, Culture, History, Holidays, Labor, Libraries, People, Travel & Tourism, tagged Biblioteca Nacional José Martí, Cuba, El Sitial Moncada, Guantanamera, Havana, José Martí, memorials, music, photographs, photos, Plaza de Armas, Plaza de la Revolución, popular travel destinations, v, waiters, writers on May 1, 2016| 4 Comments »
What can one say about a country that celebrates a poet/essayist/philosopher/journalist as a national hero? Granted, José Martí was also a fierce fighter for Cuban independence from Spain and died in battle on May 19, 1895, shot by Spanish troops in Dos Ríos, Cuba.
However, it is his writings that appear to be his most powerful and lasting legacy. Exiled from Cuba due to his political activity against Spain, he spent many years in the United States and while there, he wrote a passionate report following the 1886 execution by hanging in Chicago of the Haymarket martyrs. And so, let’s commemorate this May Day with words from José Martí…
Every human being has within him an ideal man, just as every piece of marble contains in a rough state a statue as beautiful as the one that Praxiteles the Greek made of the god Apollo. — José Martí
Memorial José Martí, Plaza de la Revolución, Havana
To educate is to give man the keys to the world, which are independence and love, and to give him strength to journey on his own, light of step, a spontaneous and free being. — José Martí
Biblioteca Nacional José Martí, Havana
Men are like the stars; some generate their own light while others reflect the brilliance they receive. —José Martí
Display at the Biblioteca Nacional José Martí, Havana
Man can never be more perfect than the sun. The sun burns us with the same light that warms us. The sun has spots (stains). The ungrateful only talk about the spots (stains). The grateful talk about the light. — José Martí, La edad de oro
Courtyard of El Sitial Moncada, Havana
In a time of crisis, the peoples of the world must rush to get to know each other. — José Martí
Bookseller stall in the Plaza de Armas, Havana
I have a white rose to tend
In July as in January;
I give it to the true friend
Who offers his frank hand to me. — José Martí
Dagoberto, our waiter at a bar on the grounds of Castillo de los Tres Reyes Magos del Morro, Havana — the white rose he made and presented to me
If translated back into Spanish, those last words may sound familiar to you…
Cultivo una rosa blanca,
En julio como en enero,
Para el amigo sincero
Que me da su mano franca.
This Playing for Change YouTube video may refresh your memory, then there is Pete Seeger. The above is one of four stanzas from Martí’s Versos Sencillos that are often used as lyrics to Guantanamera.
Vintage cars of Havana
Posted in Culture, Transportation, Travel & Tourism, tagged automobiles, Cuba, Habana, Havana, Long May You Run lyrics, Malecon, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, songs, vintage cars on April 29, 2016| 6 Comments »
In a time long ago, in a land far away, my mother bought a 1955 red and white Ford Fairlane convertible with red and white leather upholstery and a V8 engine. What a car! With top down, several road trips from the San Francisco Bay Area to Los Angeles ensued. And, “Betsy” even bumped along dirt roads and forded streams on camping trips up to Mount Lassen. We had her for ten years before repeated repair trips had my mother saying, “Enough!!!” and trading her in. It was a very sad day. What almost 16-year old wants to learn to drive a big boring pale yellow 1965 Ford Fairlane station-wagon?!
However, Betsy lives on the streets of Cuba!!! Last week’s Havana vacation had me seeing her and her older and younger Ford brothers and sisters everywhere — even Edsel!
Also there were her cousins. Most of the vintage cars, known as almendrones in Cuba, are taxis and, once destination and price are agreed to, they ply the streets taking passengers from point A to point B.
Though often they just cruise up and down the Malecón seeing and being seen enjoying the sea breeze and spectacular setting. It’s an especially popular pastime among tour groups and wedding parties.
The Stills and Young wistful elegy to Neil Young’s first car, Long May You Run, keeps playing in my mind.
Long May You Run
We’ve been through
some things together
With trunks of memories
still to come
We found things to do
in stormy weather
Long may you run.
Long may you run.
Long may you run.
Although these changes
have come
With your chrome heart shining
in the sun
Long may you run.
Well, it was
back in Blind River in 1962
When I last saw you alive
But we missed that shift
on the long decline
Long may you run.
Long may you run.
Long may you run.
Although these changes
have come
With your chrome heart shining
in the sun
Long may you run.
Maybe The Beach Boys
have got you now
With those waves
singing “Caroline No”
Rollin’ down
that empty ocean road
Gettin’ to the surf on time.
Long may you run.
Long may you run.
Although these changes
have come
With your chrome heart shining
in the sun
Long may you run.
To the vintage cars of Cuba, long may you run!!! And, for those concerned, as we were, about collectors coming in and sweeping up many of the 60,000 old American cars, according to a couple of articles I’ve read, that might not be the case. Because of their age and the US embargo, “the cars have jerry-rigged modifications” that make them undesirable to collectors. Then there is the pride owners have in their cars…
Cristian Paez, 40, said he has no intention of letting go of his 1956 purple and beige Bel Air convertible, purchased long ago by his grandfather. ‘Not possible,’ declares the burly 40-year-old, not for any price. ‘I love driving this car.'”
Stay tuned here and on Oaxaca-The Year After for more on the Havana adventure.
Walls of Oaxaca
Posted in Creativity, Culture, Travel & Tourism, tagged art, graffiti, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, stickers, street art, urban art, wall art on April 24, 2016| Leave a Comment »
The murals may be disappearing, but the walls of Oaxaca continue to radiate with messages.
Oaxaca, never a dull moment and never a dull wall.
Women of red clay
Posted in Creativity, Culture, Markets, Travel & Tourism, tagged barro, Festival de la Nieve Mezcal Gastronomía, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, pottery, San Marcos Tlapazola, Tlacolula de Matamoros on April 22, 2016| 3 Comments »
A few weeks ago, blogger buddy Chris and I returned to Tlacolula de Matamoros for the 5th annual Festival de la Nieve, Mezcal, Gastronomía. Besides yummy food, ice creams, and drink there were vendors of textiles, baskets, and barro.
These are the women of San Marcos Tlapazola and their elegant and functional pottery. I already have several oft used pieces, including a comal. However, the girl in the red dress and blue apron above, talked me into a little salsa dish. How could I resist?
You can always find these women of red clay selling their wares on Sunday market day in Tlacolula and, if you are in the market for a comal, they stroll the aisles of the Mercado Benito Juárez in Oaxaca city almost everyday. That’s where I got mine!
And, if you want to see these gals in action, check out the video Mujeresdelbarrorojo.
Behind the scenes with abuelas
Posted in Celebrations, Culture, Food, Travel & Tourism, tagged abuelas, aprons, Carnaval, Carnival, fiestas, Mexico, mole amarillo, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, Teotitlán del Valle on April 8, 2016| 7 Comments »
The poster announces, Lanii xh’tee búul (La fiesta de los abuelos) — the annual Festival of the Grandparents in Teotitlán del Valle that occurs five days immediately following Easter. Pre-Hispanic in origin, masked “ancients,” in ritualistic, lively, and hilarious fashion, impart their “wisdom” to the village leaders at a grand “Danza de los Abuelos” on the municipal plaza. (If only I could “get” the jokes!)
However, prior to each evening’s merriment, a home in one of the five sections of the village hosts a feast with enough food and drink to feed an army. And, like the world over…
…we know who are the behind-the-scenes heroes of fiestas like this.
It is the abuelas with their hands, hearts, and mouthwatering recipes (like the mole amarillo, above) handed down from their grandmothers.
Even while bouncing nietos (grandchildren) on their knees, with good humor, grace, and their elaborately embroidered aprons, they make certain everyone is fed.
And, they keep a strict accounting of all that is spent!
All against Dengue
Posted in Creativity, Culture, Health, Signs, Travel & Tourism, tagged Chikungunya, community education, Dengue, Dengue vaccine, education, health, Mexico, mosquitoes, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, wall art, Zika on April 4, 2016| Leave a Comment »
Mosquito borne diseases like Dengue, Chikungunya, and Zika continue to plague the planet. Today’s good news is a Dengue vaccine proves 100% effective in human trials. Let’s hope so!
In the meantime, understand the life cycle of mosquitoes and follow the instructions on a wall in Tlacolula de Matamoros…
Wash, cover, turn over, and eliminate!
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