On November 3rd, K and I headed to San Antonino Castillo Velasco — a Zapotec community 24 miles south of Oaxaca city. It is a village known for growing flowers and for the floral embroidery decorating its traditional blouses and dresses.
Their difuntos (departed souls) understand their families are busy providing flowers for altars and tombs in the surrounding villages in the valley and wait until November 3-4 to return and spend time with their living loved ones. Because floral design plays such an important role in the traditions and commerce of the village, it is carried over to the elaborate decorating of the tombs in the panteón (cemetery).
One of the flowers grown is the “flor inmortal” (immortal flower), so named because, even when dried, it retains its brilliant colors. Artisans in the village use these flowers to create intricately designed figures on display December 23 in the city of Oaxaca during Noche de Rábanos and to decorate the graves of loved ones during Día de Muertos.
In the cemetery villagers mix the area’s very fine dirt with water, cover the graves with this damp mud, and use a trowel to smooth it. Once dry, they outline designs and religious imagery into this mud canvas and use flowers (fresh and dried) to paint the scene. Entire families are involved — male and female, young and old. It is a labor of love and incredibly moving to behold.
There is a duality surrounding the celebration of Día de Muertos (Days of the Dead) in Oaxaca. While most every home and many public buildings and businesses construct altars with ofrendas brimming with flowers, candles, bread, chocolate, fruit, nuts, beverages, copal incense, and often photos of the departed, there is a distinct difference between the traditions of the more mestizo communities (Oaxaca city and the Etlas, for example) and those of the indigenous communities. The former often includes raucous comparsas (parades) called muerteadas with costumes, masks, painted faces, music, and “adult beverages.” According to the book, Day of the Dead: When Two Worlds Meet in Oaxaca, the muerteada allows the dead “to ‘occupy’ a living body, either a muerteada participant or an audience member, for a time, and therefore enjoy the entertainment directly rather than vicariously.”
However, in the indigenous villages these days are more solemn, filled with ritual, and are family oriented. I lean toward this more spiritual observance, so I escaped the craziness of the daily comparsas and drunken crowds in the city and went to stay in the Zapotec village of Teotitlán del Valle with my compadres (including comadre K) and to shop in Tlacolula for pan de muertos (bread), candles, and flowers to take to the ofrendas of families K and I have a relationship with in Teotitlán and San Pablo Villa de Mitla.
Tlacolula de Matamoros – Vendors of caña (sugar cane) used to create an arch over ofrendas.
Tlacolula de Matamoros – Ofrenda in the Templo de Santa María de la Asunción.
Tlacolula de Matamoros – Tapete de arena (sand painting) in Templo de Santa María de la Asunción.
San Pablo Villa de Mitla – Store front.
San Pablo Villa de Mitla – Ofrenda on home altar.
San Pablo Villa de Mitla – Detail from a public ofrenda.
Teotitlán del Valle – Ofrenda (offerings) on home altar.
Teotitlán del Valle – Tamales amarillo traditionally served on November 1.
Teotitlán del Valle – Panteón (cemetery) early evening on November 2.
While the Día de Muertos observances may differ, the bottom line in both city and pueblo is to provide a welcome worthy of both the living as hosts and the dead as honored guests.
Oaxaca is alive with preparations for Día de Muertos and the Zócalo is filled with altars from her indigenous and Afromexican communities.
Zapoteco – San Melchor Betaza, Oaxaca – Altar Bkog Tse Bene Wat
Náhuatl – Santa María Teopoxco, Oaxaca – Tlamanal-Miquilistle
Cuicateco – San Juan Bautista Cuicatlán, Oaxaca – Altar Cuicateco
Amuzgo – San Pedro Amuzgos, Oaxaca – Altar Ncué Ndó’ Tzjón Noán
Mixe – Santa María Tlahuitoltepec, Oaxaca
Zapoteco – Santo Domingo Tehuantepec, Oaxaca
Mixteco – Villa de Tamazulápam del Progreso, Oaxaca
Mazateco – Huautla de Jiménez, Oaxaca – Altar El Portal
Mixteco – Santiago Chazumba, Oaxaca – Altar Yodoquinxi
Chatino – Santiago Yaitepec, Oaxaca – Mesa de las Ánimas
Mixtecos Ñuu Savi – Santiago Ixtayutla, Oaxaca
Chontal – Santiago Astata, Oaxaca
Zoque – San Miguel Chimalapas, Oaxaca – Bi KawampΦdΦkay Φy Jama
Chinanteco – San Juan Bautista Valle Nacional, Oaxaca – Altar Tradicional Chinanteco
Triqui – San Juan Copala, Oaxaca – Altar Se Inaj Xhi Aj
Mazateco – San Pedro Ixcatlán, Oaxaca – Altar Autóctono
Ikoots – San Mateo del Mar, Oaxaca – Altar De Tikambaj
Pueblos Afromexicanos – Altar de los Pueblos Afromexicanos de la Costa de Oaxaca
The scent of cempasúchil (marigolds) fills the air and beckons the difuntos (souls of the departed) to eat, drink, and be merry with their living loved ones.
Attention residents and visitors: After a much lamented three year absence, Amate Books has once again opened its doors to book lovers — this time at Aldama 318, in the hip and happening Barrio de Jalatlaco. Yes, my neighborhood, so I’m especially happy.
The new store is bright and welcoming with well stocked shelves of (mostly) English language fiction, nonfiction, and children’s books. In addition, as in the past, there is a carefully curated selection of folk art, small gift items, and (drum roll, please) postcards.
Even La Catrina, in her sartorial splendor, has returned to welcome patrons, old and new.
Today, stepping through the door, being greeted by the smiling face of longtime employee Carmen, and surrounded by knowledge and imagination, I felt a sense of peace and tranquility from the chaos of today’s world. If or when you are in town, make sure to stop by and support this local treasure. The store is open daily. (I’ll post the hours when I know for sure.) In the meantime, a big thank you to Henry Wangeman for reopening Amate Books!
This past weekend, the city held a three-day celebration of Mole de Caderas — a traditional seasonal Mixtec dish from Huajuapan de León, Oaxaca and nearby Tehuacán, Puebla. It is only served during the fall, when the goats are made to make the ultimate sacrifice — and it is absolutely delicious!
Papel picado cut into images of goats and ollas and the words “Festival del Mole de Caderas,” hung from the rafters of the tent.
This special dish is made from the hip (caderas) and the spine of goats that have been raised for one and a half years. Starting in July they are fattened on the forage unique to the hills of the Mixteca, large amounts of salt, and a little water — this is what provides the meat with fat, softness, and juiciness and gives the broth its distinctive flavor. In early fall, when the shepherds have brought the goats back to the farms, there is a ritual filled celebration that includes offerings, incense, music, and dancing, including a dance with the goats — all in honor of the goats who were about to give their lives to feed the population.
Incense carried in the opening procession.
Matancero carrying el chivo (the goat) and a Mixtec dancer waiting for the procession to begin.
Young Mixtec dancer waiting for the procession to begin.
At last Friday’s opening of the festival, there were dignitaries galore (including the governor of Oaxaca), multiple speeches, and a moving procession with two goats to the tune of Canción Mixteca, a song which always brings tears to my eyes. It was followed by a dance with the goats and a stylized reenactment of the ritual killing of the goats (no actual blood was spilled).
We were then funneled through a palapa decorated tunnel to the tented dining area, where traditional cooks from Huajuapan de León and Oaxaca city waited proudly behind booths displaying ollas (clay pots) filled with steaming Mole de Caderas and Huaxmole de Caderas. Hmmmm… I wondered what the difference was between Huaxmole de Caderas and Mole de Caderas.
Ingredients used in making Mole de Caderas and Huaxmole de Caderas.
Wilver Vásquez López serving what his booth labeled, Mole de Chivo.
Huaxmole de Caderas.
Once home, a little research ensued (I am a librarian, after all) and I found that both dishes share common preparation and major ingredients. However, Huaxmole de Caderas is distinguished with the addition of toasted seeds from the huaje (also spelled guaje) tree — the tree that gave Oaxaca its name. Whereas, Mole de Caderas is prepared with green beans. However, if huajes are added to the latter, it is considered Huaxmole de Caderas. The herb, chepiche (aka, pepicha) is also used and, at the festival, both chepiche and huaje were used to garnish the plates.
Huaje and chepiche.
Mole de Caderas.
Interior of the palapa covered entrance to the Festival del Mole de Caderas.
By the way, there were also fresh tortillas, hot off the comal, and booths offering goat tacos, sweets, aguas, and mezcal from the Mixtec region.
Today, September 29, Mexico celebrates Día Nacional del Maíz — a day honoring the sacred maíz, symbol of the country and base food crop for most of the nation. In Oaxaca, one never has to look far to see corn and not just in fields. Corn is depicted in murals, featured in decorations, and (of course) on most every dining table, most every day.
Decoration outside a shop in Oaxaca city.
Mural at Mercado Sánchez Pascuas in Oaxaca city – “Without corn, there is no country.”
Mural in San Martín Tilcajete.
My favorite tamales from the milpa and hands of Emilia Gonzalez Martinez in Teotitlán del Valle.
In the words of cocinera tradicional Carina Santiago, at the beginning of the trailer (below) for the tremendous documentary, Los Guardianes del Maíz / The Keepers of Corn, “Corn was not domesticated by man, man was domesticated by corn.”
Trailer for Los Guardianes del Maíz / The Keepers of Corn documentary.
Last night El Grito de Dolores, also known as El Grito de la Independencia (the Shout of Independence), rang from government buildings throughout the country — recreating Don Miguel Hidalgo y Costilla’s call to arms in 1810 announcing the start of the ten-year long war for independence from Spain. In my neighborhood, green, white and red decorations can be seen around every corner and flying from rooftops.
Today, crowds will line sidewalks from the Palacio de Gobierno to Parque El Llano to cheer on their favorite contingents as a patriotic parade takes to the streets of Oaxaca. Mexican pride on display. ¡Viva México!
Here in Mexico, ’tis the season for displaying the green, white, and red colors of the Mexican flag. The entire month of September, Mes de la Patria (the month of the homeland), Mexico celebrates her successful war of independence from Spain — a war which began on September 16, 1810 and finally ended on September 27, 1821. Late at night on September 15, throughout Mexico bells will sound as the Grito de Dolores will echo from government balconies — mayors, governors, and the president recreating Father Hidalgo’s call to arms for independence.
In the meantime, beginning at the end of August, everything is coming up green, white, and red…
August 31, 2023 – State of Oaxaca’s government palace.
August 31, 2023 – Avenida de la Independencia, Oaxaca de Juárez.
There will also be a patriotic parade through the main streets of Oaxaca on September 16. However, for the foodies among us, the best part is the fleeting presence of Chiles en Nogada on restaurant menus. As Cristina Potters of the Mexico Cooks! blog explains, this is the season when its iconic ingredients are harvested and we are presented with the green of a poblano chile stuffed with a picadillo of seasonal ingredients (not to mention, green of the parsley garnish), covered with a white walnut sauce, and topped with bright red pomegranate seeds.
PS: Cristina also provides a recipe in the link above. ¡Buen provecho!
I got out of Dodge (aka, San Diego) last Friday morning, August 18, 2023 — just in time. Happiness was missing the historic arrival in California of Tropical Storm Hilary. Whew!!!
August 19, 2023 – walking down 5 de mayo in Barrio de Jalatlaco on my way to buy produce at Xiguela.
August 19, 2023 – Evening wedding calenda in Barrio de Jalatlaco.
August 20, 2023 – mural seen on the way to Mercado de la Merced.
August 23. 2023 – View from the swimming pool of Hotel Victoria.
Life has been pretty good up here in el norte. The joy of having my whole family together has been immeasurable and the weather has been unusually, for this time of year in the San Francisco Bay Area, spectacular. (For those unaware of Northern California coastal weather, I give you the line attributed, albeit falsely, to Mark Twain, “The coldest winter I ever spent was a summer in San Francisco.”) Given the sun, blue sky, and warm temperatures, I’ve spent a lot of time outdoors — gardening, eating, and sitting watching the hummingbirds — just like Oaxaca! But I miss the colibries that also can be found on the walls of my neighborhood.
In Teotitlán del Valle, as part of their three year commitment, each member of the Danza de la Pluma group and, especially their family, is responsible for taking a turn hosting one of the four yearly festivals. It includes several days of serving traditional foods at sit-down breakfasts, lunches, and dinners to the danzantes, band, families, godparents, village officials, and church leaders. For Danza de la Pluma Promesa 2022-2024 danzante, Capitán 2, Hugo Santiago Jimenez’s family, this entailed months of preparation, three pigs and one bull meeting their maker, and days of cooking for over 300 people.
Grupo Danza de la Pluma Promesa 2022-2024 entering Casa Santiago.
Hot chocolate with traditional breads.Grinding chocolate on metates for atole de espuma.Atole de espuma waiting to be served.Hugo Santiago Jimenez and Félix Contreras Ruiz eating higadito.
The women’s table waiting for breakfast at Casa Santiago. Yes, there is a men’s table — separate tables is traditional.
Two days before winging my way to California, I had the privilege of attending the breakfast given by Hugo’s family at the family compound, Casa Santiago. After the meal, tables were folded, chairs were moved to surround the courtyard, danzantes took their places, the band began to play, and Hugo and his fellow Capitán, Félix Contreras Ruiz commenced to dance. Following their dance, the entire group performed and then, led by the band, they took to Teotitlán’s main street to process up to the atrium of the church where they would perform the Danza de la Pluma for almost eight hours.
Papel picado at the fiesta hosted by the family of Capitán 2, Hugo Santiago Jimenez, at Casa Santiago.
Some of the women behind the days of feasting.
Hugo Santiago Jimenez dances in the courtyard of Casa Santiago.
Family watching as Hugo Santiago Jimenez dances in the courtyard of Casa Santiago.
Band leads the way back to the Templo de la Preciosa Sangre de Cristo.
Grupo Danza de la Pluma Promesa 2022-2024 processing back to the Templo de la Preciosa Sangre de Cristo.
Muchisimas gracias to the people of Teotitlán del Valle and, especially, Hugo and his family for inviting me and for being so welcoming and gracious. And, to my readers, CORTV will be streaming tomorrow (July 24, 2023) evening’s Danza de la Pluma performance by Teotitlán’s danzantes at La Guelaguetza (5 PM Mexico; 4 PM PDT; 7 PM EDT).
It’s Guelaguetza time in Oaxaca. And, I know, I should have written this blog post several days ago, but I have the best of excuses for my tardiness — I’m in el norte for a family reunion, thus a little distracted! However, better late than never, Guelaguetza 2023!
See below for the list of delegations by date, time, and the dance they will be performing. Performances will be streamed on CORTV’s YouTube channel.
July 17, 2023 – 10:00 AM
July 17, 2023 – 5:00 PM
July 24, 2023 – 10:00 AM
July 24, 2023 – 5:00 PM
Activities are spread throughout the city with free transportation available between event sites.
Mexican Peso Converter
View From Casita Colibrí 