Tlacolula de Matamoros | View From Casita Colibrí

Posts Tagged ‘Tlacolula de Matamoros’

Rebellion shout the people

Posted in Creativity, Culture, Education, People, Politics, Protests, Tragedy, Travel & Tourism, Violence, tagged Ayotzinapa, Cristian Tomás Colón Garnica, Escuela Normal Rural Raúl Isidro Burgos, Guerrero, Mexico, murals, Normal Rural Ayotzinapa, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, street art, students, teachers’ college, Tlacolula de Matamoros, wall art on February 26, 2015| 2 Comments »

It’s been five months since 43 students from the Escuela Normal Rural Raúl Isidro Burgos teachers’ college in Ayotzinapa, Guerrero went missing. Their parents, the people of Mexico, and growing numbers around the world continue to ask, Who is Really Responsible?

A mural recently appeared along a very long wall at the entrance to Tlacolula de Matamoros.

As I’ve previously mentioned, one of missing is Cristian Tomás Colón Garnica from Tlacolula de Matamoros.

I realized, as I was processing the photos, each panel of the mural incorporates a letter. One has to stand back (in the street) to see words materialize. However, when we went back to Tlacolula on Sunday, there were cars and trucks parked in front of most of the mural and all we could see was, “Vivos 43.” I would love to hear from you, if you know the full text.

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If it’s Domingo…

Posted in Culture, Food, Markets, Travel & Tourism, tagged enchiladas, food, market day, markets, meat, mercados, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, Tlacolula de Matamoros on February 23, 2015| Leave a Comment »

If it’s Sunday, it must be market day in Tlacolula de Matamoros.

Women doing their marketing, and the men who follow.

Carne, right off the hoof, for the carnivores.

And, delicious dining for all!

Another delightful domingo in Oaxaca.

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Message is in the mural

Posted in Creativity, Culture, Politics, Protests, Travel & Tourism, tagged artists, graffiti, Mexico, murals, Normal Rural Ayotzinapa, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, street art, Tlacolula de Matamoros, Tlacolulokos, urban art, wall art on January 10, 2015| 1 Comment »

More of the mural from yesterday’s post…

“¡Solo Dios perdona!” (Only God forgives!)

Seen on the same wall in Tlacolula de Matamoros where we were stopped in our tracks by the Tlacolula never dies mural in August. Both were conceived and created by the Tlacolulokos colective.

The artists are known for fusing iconic Mexican imagery with political and social commentary and can be found on Facebook.

These traditional religious standards voice today’s messages, “against all governments” and “alive we want them.” The latter refers to the disappeared and murdered students from the Escuela Normal Rural Raúl Isidro Burgos, teachers’ college in Ayotzinapa, Guerrero, one of whom, Christian Tomás Colón Garnica, is from Tlacolula.

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A splash of red

Posted in Creativity, Culture, Travel & Tourism, Weather, tagged forest, graffiti, Mexico, moto taxis, New York, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, red garage, snow, street art, Tlacolula de Matamoros, Tlacolulokos, urban art, wall art on January 9, 2015| 3 Comments »

Finally over the flu, I flew to the east coast, arriving along with an arctic cold front. Brrr… it was -14ºF early yesterday morning!!! However, here on a frigid New York Friday…

And, there on a sunny Tlacolula Sunday…

A splash of red to liven up the day.

* Mural by Tlacolulokos.

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Turkey day truths

Posted in Animals, Celebrations, Culture, Holidays, Markets, Travel & Tourism, tagged Alice's Restaurant, El Día de Acción de Gracias, market day, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, Thanksgiving, Tlacolula de Matamoros, turkeys on November 27, 2014| 1 Comment »

Seating for twenty-two has been scavenged from around the apartment complex, tables (three of which are borrowed) are covered with oilcloth and set with plastic cutlery, cranberry sauce has been made, stock for gravy is simmering on the stove top, and the turkey has been stuffed and is currently roasting in my little oven.

Turkey sellers on market day in Tlacolula de Matamoros, Oaxaca – Oct. 26, 2014.

Neighbors, a former neighbor, and the latter’s Oaxaqueño coworkers will be bringing another turkey, more stuffing, potatoes (mashed and sweet), pumpkin pies, and beverages. Now to put together a playlist which, naturally, will include Arlo Guthrie’s, Alice’s Restaurant Alice’s Restaurant Massacree — a turkey day family tradition since 1967.

Inevitably our guests will ask, “So what exactly does Thanksgiving celebrate?” Do we continue to pass along the myth or do we explain the inconvenient truth, “that the first official Thanksgiving Day celebrated the massacre of 700 Indian men, women and children during one of their religious ceremonies.”

Then there is the question, “How is this holiday celebrated in the USA?” The following holiday rituals will no doubt be described: Many televisions will be tuned to the annual Macy’s Thanksgiving Day parade of giant balloons and traditional turkey day football (North American) games. And, as soon as the last piece of pie has been eaten, growing numbers people will be racing to the nearest shopping mall or computer to take advantage of early-bird “Black Friday” pre-Christmas sales.

However, in between the above, there is always dining table conversation — catching-up stories, old and new jokes, loving reminiscences, and the occasional arguments over politics and/or religion. But, as the folks at the Presente.org Team wrote in an email to their subscribers this morning, for Latinos in the USA, “Thanksgiving dinner might be hard when you’re sitting across the table from a loved one who was left out of the President’s executive action. When the subject comes up, don’t drown your sorrows in a bottomless pitcher of gravy. We created a graphic to help you have that tricky conversation.”

Besides my wonderful family, friends, and blog readers, I am extremely grateful to be a guest in a country where, amidst the beauty and warmth of its people and land, it’s almost impossible to ignore awkward and difficult truths. ¡Feliz Día de Acción de Gracias a tod@s!

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Virgins in our midst

Posted in Celebrations, Culture, Holidays, People, Religion, Tragedy, Travel & Tourism, tagged canastas, convite, Cristian Tomás Colón Garnica, Fiesta de la Virgen del Rosario, Guerrero, Iguala, marmotas, Mexico, Normal Rural Ayotzinapa, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, students, Tlacolula de Matamoros, Virgen de Juquila, Virgin of the Rosary on October 8, 2014| Leave a Comment »

Today, in Santa Catarina Juquila, about 200 km southwest of the city of Oaxaca, la Virgen de Juquila, is receiving a papal coronation. Roads leading to this remote mountain village have been repaired and repaved and extra emergency services have been in place since Monday, all in anticipation of the thousands of pilgrims who were expected to descend on Juquila.

However, for those who chose to stay closer to the city, celebrations in honor of the Virgen del Rosario (Virgin of the Rosary) have been occurring for the past week throughout the valley of Oaxaca.

Thus, blogger buddy Chris and I headed to Tlacolula de Matamoros on Friday for their annual procession.

Beginning on the street in front of the panteón, young women wearing traditional red wool skirts and beautifully crocheted white cotton blouses…

…danced their way through the streets balancing towering canastas (baskets) on their heads — the letters spelling out “Virgen del Rosario.”

The arm and neck strength it takes to carry the canastas is phenomenal and can only come from years of practice. As you can see, they begin early…

Rockets announced the procession’s arrival.

Bandas provided the music.

And, “boys to men” carrying marmotas two-stepped and twirled their way along the route.

Years of practice is required to do this, too!

Participants stop at altars throughout the village, where prayers are recited, rest breaks are taken, and tamales, sweets, and beverages (yes, including mezcal) are consumed.

This goes on until 1:00 or 2:00 AM. We arrived at 4:00 PM, stayed for a couple of hours, carried nothing heavier than our cameras and daypacks, and were ready to call it a day!

However, this is a bittersweet post. While we were reveling in the festivities, a family in Tlacolula de Matamoros was in agony. It was reported last night that 18-year old, Cristian Tomás Colón Garnica, from Tlacolula de Matamoros, is one of the 43 students at Normal Rural ‘Raúl Isidro Burgos’ in Ayotzinapa who went missing on September 26 in Iguala, Guerrero after police opened fire on the students, who were soliciting funds for an Oct. 2 demonstration protesting funding cuts to their state-financed school.

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Faces of Oaxaca in B&W

Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Holidays, Travel & Tourism, tagged Andri Cauldwell quote, Black and white photography, Carnaval, Doña Marina, Guelaguetza, Mexico, Moctezuma, musicians, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, Santiago Juxtlahuaca, Teotitlán del Valle, Tlacolula de Matamoros on September 19, 2014| 6 Comments »

After a visit to Centro Fotográfico Manuel Álvarez Bravo, I’m seeing the color of Oaxaca in black and white…

Moctezuma at La Guelaguetza in Etla, July 2014

Tlacolula de Matamoros, August 2014

Convite photo-op in Teotitlán del Valle, July 2014

Doña Marina at La Guelaguetza in Etla, July 2014

Santiago Juxtlahuaca delegation at Guelaguetza desfile in Oaxaca, July 2014

Carnaval in San Martín Tilcajete, March 2014

Guelaguetza desfile in Oaxaca, July 2014

“To see in color is a delight for the eye but to see in black and white is a delight for the soul.” – Andri Cauldwell

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Hall of smoke

Posted in Food, Markets, Restaurants, Travel & Tourism, tagged food, grilled meat, Hall of smoke, Mexico, Oaxaca, pasillo de humo, photographs, photos, Tlacolula de Matamoros on August 26, 2014| 2 Comments »

One of my favorite things…

The women and their grills in el pasillo de humo (the hall of smoke).

Another Sunday market day in Tlacolula de Matamoros.

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Tlacolula never dies…

Posted in Creativity, Culture, Travel & Tourism, tagged artists, graffiti, Mexico, murals, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, street art, Tlacolula de Matamoros, Tlacolulokos, urban art, wall art on August 11, 2014| 7 Comments »

After five days of being confined to Casita Colibrí — eating, inhaling, and choking on concrete and brick-dust and enduring the throbbing sounds of drills, hammers, and chisels — due to demolition of the old and construction of a new kitchen counter (still not finished), market day in Tlacolula de Matamoros was just what the doctor ordered. Blogger buddy Chris offered and off we went.

The enticing aroma of tacos and gorditas at our favorite street stall beckoned and we quickened our step, until we came to this unexpected and powerful mural…

The mural is the work of Tlacolulokos, a collective that originated in Tlacolula. According to this article, these self-taught artists explore the subjects of violence, the transformation of traditions, tourism, poverty, and social decay by referencing southern Mexican folk elements. They use a variety of media and techniques, ranging from graffiti, easel painting, graphics and object, to video and sound.

And, Tlacolula worked her magic… We ate, soaked in her color, stopped to listen to a youth band from Santa María Guelac (with a girl tuba player, no less!) play “New York, New York” and “Can-can,” and shopped a little (for me, a 5-liter plastic “gas” canister for our next mezcal run and red bananas). Tlacolula never dies and never gets old.

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The bells are ringing

Posted in Buildings, Churches, Religion, Travel & Tourism, tagged church bells, Iglesia de la Asunción de Nuestra Señora, Mexico, Oaxaca, Parroquia de San Juan de Dios, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, Templo de San Cosme y San Damian, Templo del Carmen Bajo, Tlacolula de Matamoros on June 28, 2014| 2 Comments »

Awaking to the sounds of church bells chiming. I must be back in Oaxaca.

Templo del Carmen Bajo, Oaxaca de Juárez

Iglesia de la Asunción de Nuestra Señora, Tlacolula de Matamoros

Parroquia de San Juan de Dios, Oaxaca de Juárez

Church somewhere between San Baltazar Chichicapam and Oaxaca de Juárez

Anyone know the name and location of this church? I think maybe I should turn on my camera’s GPS!

And, just one more…

Templo de San Cosme y San Damian, Oaxaca de Juárez

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Putting it all together

Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Travel & Tourism, tagged calendas, cell phones, DPchallenge, marmotas, Mexico, Oaxaca, parades, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, Señor de Tlacolula, Tlacolula de Matamoros on October 14, 2013| 6 Comments »

There is a lot of work that goes into getting a marmota ready to go to the dance. Getting dressed takes a quite a crew and there is a lot of up close and personal last-minute cinching that must be done. Then there is squeezing (she does weigh over 70 kilos) through the church plaza portal, to make her grand entrance onto the street. However, once she emerges, she joins with her friends to dance through the streets of Tlacolula de Matamoros late into the night!

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Calenda in honor of el Señor de Tlacolula, October 11, 2013. Living history from the valley where corn was first cultivated.

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Framing the conversation

Posted in Celebrations, Culture, Travel & Tourism, tagged calendas, cell phones, Mexico, Oaxaca, parades, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, Señor de Tlacolula, Tlacolula de Matamoros on October 13, 2013| Leave a Comment »

Outside Templo de Santa María de la Asunción, Tlacolula de Matamoros, on Friday, waiting for the calenda to begin.

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More from La Virgen…

Posted in Celebrations, Culture, Religion, Travel & Tourism, tagged baskets, calendas, canastas, Fiesta de la Virgen del Rosario, Mexico, Oaxaca, parades, popular travel destinations, Tlacolula de Matamoros, Virgin of the Rosary on October 8, 2013| 2 Comments »

Before returning to honor al Señor de Tlacolula this Friday, I figured I’d better finish posting pics from last Friday’s la Virgen del Rosario calenda.

This annual procession slowly winds its way through the streets of Tlacolula de Matamoros. Participants stop at “stations” throughout the village, where religious ritual is performed, rest breaks are taken, and tamales, sweets, and beverages (yes, including mezcal) await. This goes on until after midnight. I don’t know how they do it!

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Marmotas, from boys to men

Posted in Celebrations, Culture, Religion, Travel & Tourism, tagged calendas, Fiesta de la Virgen del Rosario, marmotas, Mexico, Oaxaca, parades, popular travel destinations, Tlacolula de Matamoros, Virgin of the Rosary on October 5, 2013| Leave a Comment »

Yesterday, we headed about 20 miles southeast of the city to Tlacolula de Matamoros for their calenda (parade) in honor of la Virgen del Rosario (the Virgin of the Rosary). While we go to Tlacolula often, especially for their Sunday market, and while we’ve been to countless calendas, this particular one was a first — and what fun it was!

I’m always amazed at the variations from one village to another — even those only a few miles apart. I have to say, one of the most striking features of Tlacolula’s calenda was the masses of marmotas. No, I’m not talking the groundhog/woodchuck variety. These, at their most awesome, are ginormous cloth globes on a pole that are carried in every calenda I’ve ever seen down here.

Little boys start out with little marmotas — learning how to position it in the holster and becoming comfortable carrying it for several blocks.

The pre-teens graduate to bigger and heavier marmotas and the lesson here is one of balance — learning to find one’s center — and that you get by with a little help from your friends.

Teens refine their moves and their “look.” Look ma, no hands! After all, a central part of the calenda is a procession of the unmarried girls and young women of the village!