Feeds:
Posts
Comments

Posts Tagged ‘popular travel destinations’

Like a bird on a wire…

Posted in Creativity, Culture, Music, Travel & Tourism, tagged , , , , , , , , , , on April 15, 2013| 4 Comments »

More from the wall art at Calle Melchor Ocampo and La Noria.  I can’t help thinking of Leonard Cohen’s, Bird on a Wire.

Wall with painting of birds sitting on a wire

Like a bird on a wire,
Like a drunk in a midnight choir
I have tried in my way to be free.

Read Full Post »

In darkness and silence

Posted in Celebrations, Culture, Holidays, Religion, Travel & Tourism, tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , on April 3, 2013| 8 Comments »

The Semana Santa poster said the Viernes Santo (Good Friday) Procesión del Silencio was to begin at 6 PM in front of .  Knowing the drill, I arrived at 4:45 to take photos as contingents and participants arrived — but nobody was there.  The old antiwar slogan, “What If They Gave a War and Nobody Came” came to mind.

Of course it was going to happen, it’s just that time isn’t what it seems here. Word on the scene had it that, despite the poster info, it wasn’t to begin until 6:30 PM.  No worries!  Well, except that Mexico doesn’t begin Daylight Saving Time until next weekend, the light began rapidly fading, and 6:30 PM became 7 PM.  Por favor, let Oaxaca’s 27th annual Parade of Silence begin!

Señor de Esquipulas during the Procession of Silence, Good Friday 2013

And it eventually did — up Macedonio Alcalá, left at the Cruz de Piedra, left again on García Vigil to Independencia, another left, and back up the Alcalá.  And so, in darkness and silence the procession returned to the church where it all began.  Contingents could be heard late into the night parading through the streets of the city, as they returned the Jesuses and Marías to their respective home churches.

Lots more photos can be seen over at Oaxaca-The Year After.

Read Full Post »

Penitent portraits

Posted in Celebrations, Culture, Holidays, Religion, Travel & Tourism, tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , on March 31, 2013| Leave a Comment »

In Oaxaca the penitents gathered…

Purple hooded penitent

in front of Preciosa Sangre de Cristo on Good Friday…

3 black hooded penitents

preparing for the Procession of Silence.

Purple hoods behind black hooded penitent

For those who are wondering, “What’s with the hoods (capirotes)?”  The answer can be traced back to the Middle Ages.  Members of lay religious charitable organizations (cofradías) would don the masks and hoods to guarantee anonymity and promote humility in their service.

From the Holy Week in Seville, Wikipedia page:

At the heart of Semana Santa are the brotherhoods (Hermandades y Cofradías de Penitencia),[1] associations of Catholic laypersons organized for the purpose of performing public acts of religious observance; in this case, related to the Passion and death of Jesus Christ and to perform public penance.

The brotherhoods, besides the day-to-day work in preparation for the processions, also undertake many other self-regulated religious activities, and charitable and community work. Many brotherhoods maintain their own chapel, while others are attached to a regular parish.

The Spanish brought the tradition to Mexico and penitents continue to play a major role in the Viernes Santo, Procesión del Silencio in Oaxaca.

Read Full Post »

Woman, behold your son

Posted in Celebrations, Culture, Holidays, Religion, Travel & Tourism, tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , on March 30, 2013| 2 Comments »

And so Viernes Santo (Good Friday) began…

Mass said, a Vía Crucis (Stations of the Cross) procession through the streets of my neighborhood.

Read Full Post »

Worm moon rising

Posted in Science & Nature, Travel & Tourism, tagged , , , , , , , , on March 28, 2013| 2 Comments »

La Luna del Gusano rises above the city of Oaxaca.

P1060453

P1060454

P1060456

I’ve got to say, “La Luna del Gusano” sounds so much more poetic than, “Worm Moon.”  Ahhh, the romance of Spanish.

Read Full Post »

Lunes Santo in Teotitlán del Valle

Posted in Celebrations, Churches, Culture, Food, Holidays, Religion, Travel & Tourism, tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , on March 26, 2013| 4 Comments »

Lunes Santo (Holy Monday) in Teotitlán del Valle provided another moving and memorable experience.  For some unknown reason, the village re-enacts the 14 stations of the cross on the Monday before Easter.  Following a special early morning mass at the Templo de la Preciosa Sangre de Cristo, statues of Jesus and the Virgin Mary are hoisted on platforms and carried from the church to signal the start of the day-long pilgrimage.  They are led by a band playing a mournful and dissonant tune as they set off to wind their way through the cobblestone streets of Teotitlán.

“Stations” are set up along the route by designated families — some are decorated with the village’s famous woolen tapetes (rugs).  Tamales, non alcoholic beverages (alcohol, even the ubiquitous mezcal, is forbidden during Semana Santa), and nieves (ices) are offered at others.  At all, the appropriate prayers are read, incense of copal is burned, and offerings, including of corn and lilies, are made.  And, as always, children have important roles to play.

This slideshow requires JavaScript.

The procession is solemn and dignified and filled with pre-Columbian, along with Catholic, tradition and symbolism.  Like all the other ritual celebrations in Teotitlán del Valle, these are not performed for the benefit of tourists — they are some of the strands of the warp and weft that have woven this community together for thousands of years.

Read Full Post »

Palms for Palm Sunday

Posted in Celebrations, Churches, Creativity, Culture, Holidays, Travel & Tourism, tagged , , , , , , , , , , on March 24, 2013| 10 Comments »

In front of Oaxaca’s Cathedral, the Palm weavers from the Mixteca have been practicing their craft with awesome dexterity, creativity, and skill.

All is ready for Domingo de Ramos (Palm Sunday).

Read Full Post »

The good samaritans of Oaxaca

Posted in Beverages, Celebrations, Churches, Culture, Food, Holidays, Religion, Travel & Tourism, tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , on March 19, 2013| Leave a Comment »

You know Semana Santa is on the horizon when tables, large and small, elaborately or minimally decorated, miraculously appear in doorways, street corners, and the Alcalá.  The common denominator is smiling people offering Agua de Jamaica, Horchata, Chilacayota, and even nieves to all passers-by.  Día de la Samaritana (Good Samaritan Day) is an only-in-Oaxaca, 4th Friday of Lent, event.

This year, besides experiencing the joyous mob scene on the Alcalá and the small sidewalk stands on side streets, on a tip from a friend, I made the “taking your life in your hands” crossing of Calzado de la República to the picturesque cobblestoned neighborhood of Jalatlaco.  Tables of aguas and nieves lined the plaza in front of the Templo de San Matías Jalatlaco and pastor Víctor Hernández was recounting the Biblical story, found in the Book of John, of the woman at the well who offered water to Jesus — the inspiration for Día de la Samaritana.  He concluded the story and blessing with the word “¡ataque!” and the masses did, indeed, attack the tables!  By the way, pastor Hernández gets around — he was the same priest who performs the yearly blessing of the animals across town at the Templo de Nuestra Señora de la Merced.

It was a hot day and having already had two aguas, as I made my way over to Jalatlaco, I was jonesing for a nieve but, alas, by the time I figured out which table was serving it, the line was too long.  So, giving up on the nieve, I accepted another agua and headed towards home.  However, in the true spirit of the day, as I was melting in the heat, an older gentleman standing on the sidewalk asked if I would like a nieve and gestured toward a woman standing in the doorway behind a small table.  “Sí” I replied and a styrofoam coffee cup filled with Leche Quemada (my favorite) was thrust into my hand.  Another sublime day in Oaxaca…

Read Full Post »

Need a shave?

Posted in Science & Nature, Travel & Tourism, Weather, tagged , , , , , , , , , , on March 16, 2013| Leave a Comment »

We are in the middle of the dry season; the mountains surrounding the valleys of Oaxaca are golden.  It’s still winter and my African tulip trees remain leafless against the sun and blue sky.  However, Mother Nature is hinting that Spring is coming; time for you guys to shave those winter beards.  And, this time of year, la madre naturaleza supplies the brushes — the Pseudobombax ellipticum.

P1050591

According to the Oaxaca Garden and Nature Club website, its common name in English is the Shaving Brush Tree.

P1050689

As you can see above, the flowers can be red or white.

P1050592

By the way, one of its common names en español is Cabellos de Ángel.

P1050687

Angel Hair or Shaving Brush?  You decide!

Read Full Post »

Holding up half the sky

Posted in Buildings, Creativity, Culture, Holidays, Travel & Tourism, tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , on March 8, 2013| 1 Comment »

Today is International Women’s Day…

Mural on the wall outside the Comisión Nacional para el Desarrollo de los Pueblos Indígenas, Delegación Oaxaca, on Heroico Colegio Militar in Col. Reforma.

¡Feliz el Día Internacional de la Mujer!

Read Full Post »

Ya just never know…

Posted in Celebrations, Culture, Parks & Plazas, Travel & Tourism, tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , on March 4, 2013| 9 Comments »

Yesterday was another of the “ya just never know…” days.  Returning to the city from Xoxocotlán after looking at the house my (soon-to-be-former) neighbor is building, the taxi driver pointed down Independencia and said something that we interpreted as, “day of the garbage collector.”  So, instead of going home, my camera and I walked in the direction he pointed and, sure enough, a side street was lined with decorated garbage trucks.

decorated garbage trucks

P1050470

P1050473

However, this day wasn’t for just any old garbage collectors; being March 3rd, it celebrated the founding of the Sindicato Independiente 3 de Marzo of the municipality of Oaxaca.  Depending on which newspaper report one reads, it is either the 34th, 38th, or 39th anniversary.

Marmota with banner

These are the city workers who keep the state’s capital clean — the garbage collectors, street sweepers, drivers, and laborers.  And, the city of Oaxaca IS clean, putting San Francisco to shame!  After a Thanksgiving mass, most of the 1,200 “trabajadores de limpia” and their families filled the plaza in front of the Basilica de la Soledad.  And, like all good Oaxacan celebrations, there were monos, dancers, marmotas, bands, toritos, and the whistles, whirrs, and booms of fireworks (of the all bang, no bling variety).

P1050502

P1050519

P1050499

P1050491

P1050487

So, now you know where to be and what to do next March 3rd!

Read Full Post »

Sacred and precious

Posted in Creativity, Culture, Science & Nature, Travel & Tourism, Weather, tagged , , , , , , , , , , , on March 3, 2013| Leave a Comment »

It’s the dry season, no rain in a couple of months, and we are reminded how sacred and precious water is.

Wave and rain shower painted on wall

At the top of the wave:

“Fluye hermana agua de las nubes a la tierra y de la tierra a las nubes.”  (Sister water flowing from the clouds to earth and from the earth to the clouds.) 

A line from the poem, Oración al sagrado elemento agua.

Read Full Post »

Little devils

Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Exhibitions, Travel & Tourism, tagged , , , , , , , , , , , on February 16, 2013| 7 Comments »

The sun is shining, but it’s cold.  With snow on the ground, I’m living inside.  I’m definitely not in Oaxaca anymore!  I’m outside of Saratoga Springs, New York.  Yes, I traded the land of blue skies, brilliant colors, warm temps, and open doors and windows, for ten days in the frigid, fifty shades of gray, northeast — but for the best of reasons, my grandson’s first birthday. However, I need my Oaxaca fix!  So, with a little time on my hands (nap time for baby) I am going through Noche de Rabanos photos.  And, these little devils, jumped out at me.  (Gosh, I have no idea why!) P1030666 These dancers portray La Danza de los diablos, a dance that is the result of a fascinating fusion of African and Sonoran rituals. P1030669 They are made of dried corn husks P1030668 and were created by Moisés Ruiz Sosa.  The detail is amazing! P1030667 La Danza de los Diablos de Santiago Juxtlahuaca won second prize in the 2012 Totomoxtle Decorado division. P1030670 Ooops!  The adorable little devil who melts this heart just woke up.  Time to do the crawling-around-on-the-floor dance.

Read Full Post »

Pottery in motion

Posted in Creativity, Culture, Gardens, People, Travel & Tourism, tagged , , , , , , , , , , , on February 10, 2013| 2 Comments »

One of the biggest challenges of the recent move was carrying 150+ potted plants down two flights of stairs, across the driveway, and up a flight of stairs.  They ranged in size from eight to eighteen inches across and ten to twenty-four inches tall.  Needless to say, major respect was given to the cactus and their perilous spikes.  However, I also gave special care to my two pots by the late potter, Dolores Porras.

P1040391

Growing up and spending her life in one of the villages of Oaxaca known for working in clay, Santa María Atzompa, her style was unique in the use of color and imagery — a touch of whimsy wherever her pots are found.

P1040390

If you will be in Oaxaca tomorrow (Feb. 11, 2013), be sure to stop by the Oaxaca Lending Library to see Michael Peed discuss and show his documentary, Dolores Porras: Artista Artesana de Barro.  And, if you’re not lucky enough to be there, check out the website for the film’s trailer.

Porras blurb

 

Read Full Post »

Vamos Niners!

Posted in Creativity, Culture, Sports & Recreation, Travel & Tourism, tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , on February 3, 2013| Leave a Comment »

Super Bowl madness in the Bay Area.  Can’t find any San Francisco 49er-Oaxaca connection, except scores of fanáticos.  So, here’s a little red and gold from the walls of Oaxaca…

IMG_0362aIMG_0379 P1020707

¡Vamos Niners!

Read Full Post »

« Newer Posts - Older Posts »