Posted in Celebrations, Culture, Flora, Gardens, Holidays, tagged cactus, Día de la Madre, Echinopsis eyriesii, flowers, garden, Mexico, Mother's Day, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations on May 10, 2015| 5 Comments »
Yesterday, on the terrace of my neighbor, his Echinopsis eyriesii was putting on quite a show…
Listening to the Putamayo World Music Hour’s tribute to mothers and sending mothers everywhere wishes for peace, justice, love, and much joy.
And, the librarian in me can’t resist adding a couple of Mother’s Day reference sources:
¡Feliz día de la madre!
Posted in Celebrations, Culture, Holidays, Religion, Travel & Tourism, tagged Cerro Picacho, Day of the Holy Cross, Día de la Santa Cruz, El Picacho, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, Quie Guia Betz, Teotitlán del Valle on May 8, 2015| 6 Comments »
The sunburned shoulders have turned brown and the leg muscles are no longer sore. I’ve fully recovered from last Sunday’s annual Día de la Santa Cruz (Day of the Holy Cross) hike up Cerro Picacho (in zapoteco, Quie Guia Betz), the sacred mountain in Teotitlán del Valle.
All that remains, are memories and photographs from another lovely, if strenuous, day. The cicadas (cigarras or chicharras, en español) again provided the soundtrack, as we wound our way up the trail from the presa (dam). The climb begins rather benignly but rapidly gets steeper and steeper. That little speck in the lower right of the photo below is the car — and this was less than a tenth of the way to the summit!
At 10 AM, when we began our ascent, it was already hot and experience told us shade trees were few and far between. We were the only extranjeros (foreigners) on the trail and were frequently passed by Teotitecos (people from Teotitlán) going up and coming down and never failing to greet us with “buenos días.” After several rest and water sipping breaks, we eventually reached our destination.
This 2.9 mile (4.7 km) hike took us from 5,750 feet (1,752 meters) to 6,830 feet (2,082 meters). However, once we arrived, we were immediately offered much-needed and appreciated cups of agua de jamaica (hibiscus water) and later we were fed amarillo tamales pulled from steaming pots in the makeshift kitchen. No doubt, the gals in this alfresco cocina appreciated the newly constructed shade structure and counter that had been bolted into the side of the mountain, as I’m sure did the young man who sat down to serenade us.
However, the best was yet to come — the spectacular views of the village and the mountains beyond that unfold when one reaches the summit.
Even more overwhelming is the sense of oneness with the natural world and with generations of Zapotecos who have been climbing and honoring El Picacho for thousands of years.
As I mentioned at the beginning of this post, May 3 is Día de la Santa Cruz. The committee members who organize Teotitlán’s celebration change from year to year, so each year takes on a slightly different character. This year brought the newly built kitchen space and, unlike last year, no foot race up the mountain and the absence of massive speakers blasting music — for which we were grateful!
Three permanent crosses can be found atop Picacho and for Día de la Santa Cruz, all were decorated with fragrant garlands of frangipani blossoms. A cross of concrete and stone crowns an altar and two wooden crosses, which I’ve been told were carved in Chiapas, preside above the altar and look out over the valley.
Teotitlán (Teocaltitlán, in náhuatl) means “land of the gods.” Sitting on top of Cerro Picacho, it certainly felt as if I was indeed gazing out at the land of the gods.
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Holidays, Travel & Tourism, tagged 5 e mayo, Cinco de mayo, graffiti, history, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, posters, stencil art, wall art on May 5, 2015| 7 Comments »
It’s Cinco de Mayo, but in Oaxaca, like most of Mexico, it’s a business as usual kind of day; schools are in session, businesses and banks are open, and deliveries are being made. The cervesas and mezcal may be flowing and guacamole may be served, but no more than usual. Only in Puebla, where the significantly outnumbered Mexican troops defeated the French army in the Battle of Puebla on May 5, 1862, is it a big deal. However, most every city and village has a street named 5 de mayo and in many, like Oaxaca, a street has been named for Ignacio Zaragoza Seguín, the general who commanded the Mexican army at the Battle of Puebla. By the way, he was born in what was the Mexican village of Bahía del Espíritu Santo, now Goliad, Texas, USA.
As the walls of Oaxaca continue to show, it’s the current battles that remain front and center…
As the mother in the stencil above explains, against the odds like her ancestors 153 years ago, “I will fight today because I don’t want to see you die tomorrow.”
Posted in Celebrations, Culture, Holidays, Travel & Tourism, tagged children, Children's Day, costumes, Day of the Child, Día del Nino, Forever Young lyrics, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, traje on April 30, 2015| 3 Comments »
Feliz Día del Niño (Day of the Child) to children everywhere!
Forever Young
by Bob Dylan
May God bless and keep you always
May your wishes all come true
May you always do for others
And let others do for you
May you build a ladder to the stars
And climb on every rung
May you stay forever young
Forever young, forever young
May you stay forever young.
May you grow up to be righteous
May you grow up to be true
May you always know the truth
And see the lights surrounding you
May you always be courageous
Stand upright and be strong
May you stay forever young
Forever young, forever young
May you stay forever young.
May your hands always be busy
May your feet always be swift
May you have a strong foundation
When the winds of changes shift
May your heart always be joyful
And may your song always be sung
May you stay forever young
Forever young, forever young
May you stay forever young.
Posted in Flora, Travel & Tourism, tagged Delonix regia, Flamboyant trees, flamboyantes, flowers, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, Royal Poinciana, trees on April 29, 2015| 6 Comments »
The Flamboyant trees (aka, Delonix regia and Royal Poinciana) have outdone themselves this year. And yesterday, walking home from the market, I was captured and enraptured by their canopy. 
On Independencia below the Basilica de la Soledad.
Posted in Creativity, Culture, Transportation, Travel & Tourism, tagged automobiles, cars, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, Volkswagen Beetle, VW, VW bug on April 24, 2015| 6 Comments »
Old Volkswagens never die.
They cruise on down to Oaxaca…
Put on some bling…
And, stop traffic!
Posted in Animals, Archaeology, Culture, Environment, Flora, tagged #DíadelaTierra, #NoPlaceLikeHome, birds, Earth Day 2015, environmentalism, Mexico, Mixtec, Monte Albán, nature, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, trees, Zapotec on April 22, 2015| 2 Comments »
When atop the massive plateau that is the archaelogical site of Monte Albán, one can’t help but reflect on the pre-Hispanic cultures that built and inhabited this place; cultures whose gods were of the environment — the elements and the agricultural gifts, to man and beast, those elements provided.
Today, as we celebrate Earth Day, perhaps we need a return to the old gods…
Posted in Creativity, Culture, Music, Travel & Tourism, tagged Kiss, Kiss the Girl Goodbye lyrics, Mexico, murals, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, street art, urban art, wall art on April 20, 2015| 5 Comments »
Love and adventure on Calle de Los Mártires de Tacubaya!!!
Before he plunges into the deep to do battle with the giant pulpo, one last kiss goodbye from the girl in the red car.
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Exhibitions, People, Textiles, Travel & Tourism, tagged batik, Gasali Adeyemo, indigo, Museo Textil de Oaxaca, Oaxaca Textile Museum, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, textiles, tie-dye on April 19, 2015| 3 Comments »
Today the Museo Textil de Oaxaca is celebrating its seventh birthday with live music (of course!), nieves (ice cream), and an expo-venta of tie-dye and batik textiles from Nigerian born, Gasali Adeyemo. The exhibition and sale culminate a week-long artist-in-residence, in which he taught a 5-day workshop — I’m kicking myself I didn’t take it — and a Friday evening presentation, “African Blues, Mi Vida en Indigo” — which I did attend! Gasali’s work is spectacular and his face glows when he talks about the traditions, technique, and love that goes into his work.
Note the orange blouse above; it beckoned to me and I couldn’t resist buying it. The technique is batik on a brocaded cotton that has been dyed with the bark of a tree found in Nigeria. The name of the tree in the Yoruba language is Epo Ira, which, according to Gasali roughly translates to, “tonic iron tree,” as it is also used medicinally to cure iron deficiency.
By the way, for those of you who are going to the International Folk Art Market in Santa Fe, NM in July, Gasali and his beautiful textiles will be there.
Posted in Children, Creativity, Culture, Flora, Markets, Travel & Tourism, tagged Barrio de Xochimilco, children, dog trainer, dogs, flamboyantes, graffiti, jacaranda, Mexico, mezcal, murals, Oaxaca, organic market, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, street art, trees, urban art, vendors, wall art, Xoloitzcuintlis on April 17, 2015| 6 Comments »
“What do you do all day?” It’s a question I’ve been asked countless times since I began my retired life down Oaxaca way and I’m not alone. Most expats here have heard those words — a query that hints at the notion that there couldn’t possibly enough to fill the day in a place where one isn’t fluent in the language, isn’t surrounded by family and old friends, and doesn’t have a job. A large part of the answer is, doing most everything takes longer. And that is not a bad thing! Perhaps, a photo diary of this morning’s grocery shopping excursion might provide an illustration.
After morning coffee and breakfast, catching up on email and the news, washing dishes, showering and dressing, I grabbed a couple of shopping bags and headed out at 10 AM. The initial plan had been to walk up to Niños Heroes (the Pan American highway) to photograph some new murals, cross the highway to the Organic Market, and then return home by way of Sánchez Pascuas mercado where I could get chicken, quesillo, and anything else that remained on my shopping list or struck my fancy. However, for almost an hour, I’d been hearing Guelaguetza music coming from the Plaza de la Danza. I decided a detour was in order and found kindergartners performing Oaxaca’s traditional folkloric dances, including this one where couples take turns “dissing” each other in a rhythmic double-entendre laden dialogue. It always gets laughs — wish I could understand the jokes! Needless to say, I hung out watching the kids for awhile.
I finally tore myself away and resumed my original itinerary. Some of the murals were east of the Pochimilco Organic Market so I decided to start at the end and work my way back — a route which took me up the Macedonio Alcalá where I saw a sidewalk vignette of hats and scarves lined up in front of Santo Domingo. There was also a small marmota (cloth globe on a pole) laying on its side, so I’m guessing there was to be a calenda (parade) of some sort.
After stopping to take a few photos (how could I resist the juxtaposition with the Peña Nieto graffiti?) I found myself behind these vendors taking their merchandise up to Llano Park for its Friday market.
Deciding to speed up my slow progress on the errands I’d set forth for the morning, I passed the gals only to stop to watch Oaxaca’s version of the dog whisperer working with four Xoloitzcuintlis (Mexican Hairless Dogs).
Eventually continuing north, I arrived at Niños Heroes and the murals and street art I’d come to find and photograph. They deserve their own blog post, so I will save those photos for another day. However, I also ran across this wonderful wall! 
Crossing the highway, I found the newly built and landscaped stairs (almost didn’t recognize them) leading up to Xochimilco and the Pochimilco Organic Market. I wandered and lingered and tasted — including a few of these mezcals, as I’ve got a US trip coming up and a stepson who probably won’t speak to me if I don’t bring him a couple of bottles.
Popping some gum in my mouth (didn’t want my breath to smell like I’m a lush), I headed south on Tinoco y Palacios to catch a couple of new murals I’d had fleeting glimpses of when returning from last Sunday’s trip to Tlacolula. This one had particularly caught my eye.
By the time I arrived at Sánchez Pascuas, it was after 12 noon. I found my poultry guy, paid a visit to the cheese vendor, picked up some veggies from my favorite produce gal, and, on the way out, bought some homemade salsa verde. Yummm… As I descended the three stairs down to the sidewalk, I turned around to admire the beautiful color of the flamboyant and jacaranda trees and the tranquility of this setting in the middle of the state’s bustling capital city.
It was close to 1 PM when I unlocked the door to my apartment. If I were in California, I would have jumped in the car, driven down to the local Friday organic market (with not a drop of mezcal in sight), browsed a bit, spent way too much money, climbed back in the car to finish shopping at Safeway, before returning to the house, probably by 11 AM.
Here in Oaxaca, I’d been gone almost three hours, walked close to fifty (often hilly) blocks, and seen some wonderful, creative, and life affirming sights. And, that doesn’t even include the scattering of conversations with my neighbors and Luís and Luci, who work here. Just another Friday. Not a bad way to live one’s life!
Posted in Casita Colibrí, Churches, Travel & Tourism, Weather, tagged Basilica de la Soledad, Casita Colibrí, clouds, CONAGUA, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, rainy season, Templo de San José, weather on April 15, 2015| 9 Comments »
We had spectacular electrical storms Sunday and Monday nights, with thunder rumbling continuously, lightening flashing in all directions, and torrential rain. And, today, I awoke to a rare early morning downpour — 8 inches of pergola runoff collected in my buckets. Noticias, the Facebook group Bloqueos y Accidentes en Oaxaca, and Reportes en Oaxaca, Mexico all show major flooding throughout the city from this morning’s surprise.
This morning’s view of Templo de San José and Basilica de la Soledad. Where did Monte Albán go?
All of this has me asking, is this the beginning of an early rainy season? Then, there is the report from Conagua (Mexico’s national water commission) that, due to El Niño, there could be a significant increase in the number of Pacific Coast hurricanes this season. Hmmm… it looks like we may be in for a bumpy and wet ride!
Posted in Creativity, Culture, Markets, Music, Travel & Tourism, tagged band, Banda los Magueyitos de Matatlán, Mexico, music, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, stars on April 12, 2015| Leave a Comment »
There always seems to be live music in Tlacolula de Matamoros on Sunday market days. Today it was the hot band, Los Magueyitos de Matalán. The horns had me seeing stars!
Hopefully, Chris over at Oaxaca-The Year After will eventually post the video he took. In the meantime, here they are on SoundCloud.
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Music, Travel & Tourism, tagged Baile de Los Viejitos, canes, Dance of the Old Men, mascaras, masks, Mexico, music, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, Teotitlán del Valle, video on April 10, 2015| Leave a Comment »
In my last blog post, I mentioned Teotitlán del Valle does not go on Daylight Saving Time. And, they are not alone! As the article, Clocks don’t change where sun keeps time, most of Mexico didn’t adopt DST until 1996 and given the autonomy guaranteed to indigenous communities, “70% of the entire indigenous population of Oaxaca” have chosen to follow the sun — the “King of the Sky.”
Ojala, blogger buddy Chris (who doesn’t change his watch to DST either) and I will be returning to Teotitlán del Valle for the final day (into night) of the Baile de Los Viejitos, (the Dance of the Old Men) this time hosted by el quinto (5th) sección. However, before we go, a few more scenes from Tuesday’s fiesta, put on by the segunda (2nd) sección.
I say, “ojala, ” because several marches and blockades are currently in progress throughout Oaxaca and on the carreteras into and out of the city. Alas, the video I shot on Tuesday of the Baile de los Viejitos may be as close as I come to the dancing action until next year.
Posted in Celebrations, Churches, Culture, Holidays, Religion, Travel & Tourism, tagged Easter, Good Friday, Holy Week, Jesús con la Cruz a Cuestas, Jesus, La Piedad, Mexico, Nuestra Señora de Los Dolores, Oaxaca, Pascuas, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, Procesión del Silencio, Procession of Silence, Señor de Esquipulas, Señor de La Columna, Señor de Las Tres Caídas, Semana Santa, Viernes Santo, Virgin Mary on April 5, 2015| 12 Comments »
I wasn’t brought up in the Virgin and crucified Christ tradition. No baggage, no boredom — perhaps that is why I find the multiplicity of María and Jesús images so fascinating. Thus, I can’t resist a little “up close and personal” at the Procession of Silence.
Señor de Esquipulas – Parroquia de Nuestra Señora del Carmen Alto
Nuestra Señora de Los Dolores – Parroquia de Santo Tomas Xochimilco
Señor de Las Tres Caídas – Parroquia de Santo Tomás Xochimilco
La Piedad
Jesús con la Cruz a Cuestas – Capellanía de Nuestra Señora del Patracinio
Nuestra Señora de los Dolores – Capellanía de Nuestra Señora del Patrocinio
Señor de La Columna (front) – Templo de Santo Domingo de Guzmán
Señor de La Columna (back) – Templo de Santo Domingo de Guzmán
The rituals and images continue to remain alien to me, but I can’t help but appreciate them as cultural expressions.
Posted in Celebrations, Churches, Culture, Holidays, Religion, Travel & Tourism, tagged Christianity, Easter, Good Friday, Holy Mother, Holy Week, Mexico, Nuestra Señora de la Soledad, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, procession, Semana Santa, Viernes Santo, Virgin of Solitude on April 3, 2015| 2 Comments »
Good Friday morning, the streets of Oaxaca are quiet, and solitude seems to be the order of the day. The only sounds that could be heard coming from the streets in my ‘hood were prayers being sung as Our Lady of Solitude left her eponymous home at the Basílica de Nuestra Señora de la Soledad.
As you can see, alone, Oaxaca’s patron saint was not; acolytes carried and accompanied her on her morning stroll.
A crystal clear, brilliant blue sky provided a backdrop for her sojourn.
Slowly she made her way down Independencia en-route to the Cathedral.
She was one of the first to arrive at this ritual Viernes Santo gathering.
The guys took over and maneuvered her into position at the side of the Cathedral, as the faithful awaited.
There, she would soon be joined by other images of the Santísima Virgen and Jesús from many of the numerous churches in the Historic District.
After at least two hours of prayers and songs and more prayers, Soledad returned to the Basilica, perhaps to rest (like me) before again taking to the streets for this evening’s Procession of Silence.
Mexican Peso Converter
View From Casita Colibrí 