October 30, 2016, around and about the valley of Oaxaca, preparations were underway for Día de Muertos. Bread, fruit, chocolate, nuts, and flowers for sale spilled from mercados into the streets; the difuntos must be fed… and only the best!
Our first stop was Villa Díaz Ordaz for their first Expo Festival del Pan de Muerto. It was day two of the 3-day festival and, of course, we were there early (around noon), but everyone was so warm and welcoming. Hopefully, it will continue to grow in future years, as this is a sweet village in a picturesque setting at the base of the mountains.
In Díaz Ordaz, they call these tiny, spicy-scented, lavender flowers “flor de muerto” and we were informed that they are even more important than cempasuchil (marigolds).
After buying some surprisingly flavorful (whole grain!) pan de muerto for my ofrenda, we headed off to San Pablo Villa de Mitla. Mitla has the most beautiful pan de muerto and two years ago we stumbled on their Pan de Muertos festival and competition. A dazzling display of intricately decorated breads lined the sidewalks under the portales. Alas, the festival was not continued, as their bread is in such demand, the bakers were too busy to take time out for an expo and competition. So, like last year, we just enjoyed the sights and aromas of their bustling mercado.
Have you ever seen so many varieties of bananas??? And, now for the famous pan de muertos…
Returning home, I added the bread and flor de muerto to my ofrenda. Following a siesta, I ventured out into the streets of the city in search of a comparsa. I never found it, but, as you could see from my previous post, the city was teeming with people and activity. However, amid the merriment and mayhem, there were scenes of tranquility.
A catrin ejecutivo?
The copal incense beckoned the difuntos… They began arriving this morning, seconds after midnight.
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View From Casita Colibrí 