Cempasuchitl, catrinas, and comparsas. El día de los muertos is coming…
Mural at the corner of Aldama and Hidalgo in Barrio de Jalatlaco.
Posts Tagged ‘photographs’
Los muertos are coming
Posted in Celebrations, Culture, Religion, Travel & Tourism, tagged Barrio de Jalatlaco, comparsa, Day of the Dead, Día de los Muertos, Mexico, muerteada, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations on October 28, 2013| 2 Comments »
Spoke too soon
Posted in Agriculture, Culture, Economics, Environment, Food, Science & Nature, tagged corn, Día Nacional del Maíz Nativo, genetically modified organisms, GMO, maíz, maize, Mark Twain quote, Mexico, National Native Corn Day, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, Think Mexican on October 24, 2013| 2 Comments »
Much like the Mark Twain line, “The report of my death was an exaggeration,” unfortunately, so too the news announcing the death of GMO corn in Mexico.
According to the post by Think Mexican, The Fight Continues: GMO Corn Not Yet Banned in Mexico:
Contrary to reports, genetically modified (GMO) corn has not been banned in Mexico. On October 10, a Mexican judge from the Twelfth Federal District Court for Civil Matters in Mexico City issued an injunction suspending field trails of GMO corn, however, a complete ban was not ordered.
Federal Judge Jaime Eduardo Verdugo’s ruling does order the halting of “all activities involving the planting of transgenic corn in [Mexico] and ends the granting of permissions for experimental and pilot commercial plantings.” [Read full article, HERE]
La lucha continúa…
Shot of the day
Posted in Creativity, Culture, Travel & Tourism, tagged face painting, Mexico, Oaxaca, photo, photographs, popular travel destinations on October 24, 2013| 6 Comments »
How now, spirit! whither wander you? — Puck, Midsummer Night’s Dream.
Just another Wednesday walk in Oaxaca.
Sunday in the city
Posted in Culture, Markets, Music, Travel & Tourism, tagged balloons, ice blocks, iceman, marimbas, markets, Mercado IV Centenario, mercados, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, street musicians on October 22, 2013| 10 Comments »
Sunday morning, walking up Avenida Morelos, The Iceman Cometh.
Arriving at Mercado IV Centenario, marimba rhythms start to play…
Down to the zócalo. As Winnie the Pooh said, “Nobody can be uncheered with a balloon.”
Sunday morning strolls through the streets of Oaxaca always make me smile.
Grains of crystal
Posted in Agriculture, Celebrations, Culture, Environment, Science & Nature, Travel & Tourism, tagged corn, Día Nacional del Maíz Nativo, genetically modified organisms, GMO, Lila Downs, maíz, maize, Mexico, National Native Corn Day, Oaxaca, Palomo del Comalito, photographs, photos, Teotitlán del Valle, video on October 19, 2013| 5 Comments »
Sometime around 8,000 years ago, corn was first domesticated in the valley where I have the privilege of living. Botanists have determined that the valley of Oaxaca was the “cradle” of maize evolution. Maíz became the lifeblood of the Mesoamerican diet and culture and it continues today.
On September 29, Oaxaca celebrated el Día Nacional del Maíz Nativo (National Native Corn Day). On the zócalo, across from the Government Palace, there were displays showcasing the multiple hues of native corn…
There were tlayudas for sale…
However, there were also warnings about the dangers of genetically modified corn and the products containing them…
Genetically modified corn is a major issue in Oaxaca. There is a concern that native plants could become infected with GMOs, which would then contaminate and compromise the genetic diversity of native varieties. Speakers, at the event, discussed the importance of the community seed banks that have been established to safeguard native varieties and be used in the wake of economic and ecological crisis. Two weeks after the aforementioned event, there was good news, a Mexico judge has placed an indefinite ban on genetically engineered corn.
And so to celebrate, I am re-posting the Lila Downs video of her song “Palomo del Comalito,” paying homage to maíz, and its “granitos de cristal” (grains of crystal).
And to bring this post full circle, the video was filmed in Teotitlán del Valle, located here in the valley where corn was first cultivated.
View from el sur…
Posted in Casita Colibrí, Gardens, Travel & Tourism, tagged African Tulip trees, garden, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, Tulipan on October 16, 2013| 6 Comments »
On the one hand, headline from today’s New York Times, Viewing U.S in Fear and Dismay. On the other hand, the view from my balcony.
One of the last African tulip tree blossoms of the season. Ahhh…
Putting it all together
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Travel & Tourism, tagged calendas, cell phones, DPchallenge, marmotas, Mexico, Oaxaca, parades, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, Señor de Tlacolula, Tlacolula de Matamoros on October 14, 2013| 6 Comments »
There is a lot of work that goes into getting a marmota ready to go to the dance. Getting dressed takes a quite a crew and there is a lot of up close and personal last-minute cinching that must be done. Then there is squeezing (she does weigh over 70 kilos) through the church plaza portal, to make her grand entrance onto the street. However, once she emerges, she joins with her friends to dance through the streets of Tlacolula de Matamoros late into the night!
Calenda in honor of el Señor de Tlacolula, October 11, 2013. Living history from the valley where corn was first cultivated.
Framing the conversation
Posted in Celebrations, Culture, Travel & Tourism, tagged calendas, cell phones, Mexico, Oaxaca, parades, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, Señor de Tlacolula, Tlacolula de Matamoros on October 13, 2013| Leave a Comment »
Outside Templo de Santa María de la Asunción, Tlacolula de Matamoros, on Friday, waiting for the calenda to begin.
What’s black and white…?
Posted in Creativity, Culture, Politics, Protests, Travel & Tourism, tagged graffiti, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, political commentary, popular culture, popular travel destinations, posters, street art, wall art on October 3, 2013| Leave a Comment »
Remember the childhood riddle, “What’s black and white and red all over?”
Old answer: A newspaper. New answer: The walls of Oaxaca.
Where am I???
Posted in Food, Restaurants, Travel & Tourism, tagged food, McCarthy's Irish Pub, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, restaurants on October 1, 2013| 2 Comments »
When you are caught in stop and go (mostly stopped) traffic and getting hungrier by the minute, the only thing to do is turn off onto a side street and find an Irish pub.
Hamburger and French fries = comfort food to soothe the traffic-challenged soul. But, in Oaxaca??? Yes, McCarthy’s Irish Pub in Reforma! Probably wasn’t the best dining decision we have ever made. French fries were pretty good, but hamburgers left a lot to be desired. However, by the time we left, the traffic had thinned and it was smooth sailing home!
A boy and his keyboard
Posted in Culture, Transportation, Travel & Tourism, tagged boys, keyboard, Mexico, musical instruments, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, traffic, transportation on September 28, 2013| Leave a Comment »
Navigating through traffic in Oaxaca, you just never know what you will see…
¡¡¡Cuidado!!!
Por favor, never come between a boy and his keyboard.
Bright lights, small city
Posted in Buildings, Celebrations, Culture, Travel & Tourism, tagged decorative lighting, Dreamer, El Mes de la Patria, Government Palace, José María Morelos y Pavón, Mexican Independence, Mexico, Miguel Hidalgo y Costilla, Oaxaca, Oaxaca Film Festival, Oaxaca FilmFest4, Palacio de Gobierno, photo, photographs, Twenty Million People on September 26, 2013| 3 Comments »
Early Wednesday evening, I walked down to the Palacio de Gobierno to see Dreamer, one of the Oaxaca FilmFest4 offerings. It had been raining on and off all day and so, to lighten my load and make room for my umbrella, I left my camera at home. Why would I need it? I was just going to be sitting in a small dark theater. Sheesh, was I mistaken! It was twilight when I entered the Palace via the side door on Flores Magón, but we were directed to exit through the main front entrance — and I was blown away by the scene before me. The rain-soaked zócalo glistened and glittered, awash with El Mes de la Patria green, white, and red lights.
Needless to say, last night when I returned to watch, Twenty Million People, I took my camera!
Heroes of the independence movement, Hidalgo and Morelos in the spotlight as they gaze down from the Government Palace. I always forget how beautiful the zócalo is at night!
Beautiful gals of Danzón
Posted in Celebrations, Culture, Travel & Tourism, tagged Congreso Nacional de Danzón, dance, Danzón, festivals, Mexico, music, Oaxaca, photographs, photos on September 20, 2013| 2 Comments »
Not only is the previously mentioned Oaxaca FilmFest4 opening tomorrow night, but last night a calenda up Morelos heralded the arrival of the 8th Congreso Nacional de Danzón. Alas, it was raining, I’m a wimp, and so stayed home. However, the music coming from the Plaza de la Danza sounded wonderful. Sigh….
If you are walking around Oaxaca during the next few days, be on the lookout for the guapas y guapos (the guys are all duded up, too) of Danzón. They are adding a lot of glitz and glamour to the streets of the city.
For the uninitiated, Danzón is a very stately dance that originated in Cuba. However, it seems to be most beloved in Puerto Rico and Mexico. It has especially flourished in Oaxaca, where one can find dancers young and old dancing under the laurel trees in the Zócalo every Wednesday evening at 6:30. And, no wonder it has retained its popularity here, according to Wikipedia, “many famous danzones were composed by Oaxacan musicians such as the famous Nereidas and Teléfono de larga distancia, both works of Amador Pérez Dimas, from the town of Zaachila, near Oaxaca city.”
If you aren’t anywhere where Danzón is performed, you can check out the 1991 movie, Danzón:
Julia (Rojo) is a phone operator in Mexico City who divides her time between her job, her daughter and the danzon: a cuban dance very popular in Mexico and Central America. Every wednesday Julia does the danzon with Carmelo (Rergis) in the old “Salon Colonia”. They’ve danced for years but barely know each other. One night Carmelo disappears without a trace. Feeling lonely and sad, Julia takes a train to Veracruz, where she knows Carmelo has a brother. That sudden trip will change Julia’s life forever. — IMDB
I haven’t seen the movie, but according to one reviewer, the soundtrack is worth the rental price. I’m going to try to find it!
FilmFest fever
Posted in Creativity, Culture, People, Travel & Tourism, tagged entertainment, film, film festivals, international film festivals, Mexico, movies, Oaxaca, Oaxaca Film Festival, Oaxaca FilmFest4, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, Ramiz Adeeb Azar on September 18, 2013| 1 Comment »
Today the Oaxaca Lending Library played host to Oaxaca FilmFest4 founder and artistic director, Ramiz Adeeb Azar. He and 4 members of the festival staff came to the library to “pitch” the festival, which opens September 21 and runs through the 28th. (Note: it has moved from November to September). It wasn’t a hard sell, as many of us have been following it since it began in 2010. And, I’ve got to say, it’s come a long way in a short amount of time. According to Ramiz, it has…
- Grown to be one of the Largest International Film Festivals in Latin America
- Discovered over a dozen films that have gone onto commercial success
- Created a highly competitive Script Writing Competition.
- Created “Pitch It”; a unique platform that allows screenwriters to sell their scripts to industry executives around the globe
- Conducted the longest University Rally ever (10 days throughout the entire state!)
- Rolled out Academia; a five-day training program designed to enhance Festival Attendees’ self-distribution skills
- Developed Academia Exchange; a unique exchange between filmmakers and students
- Gained membership of the Mexican Film Festival Association (La Red Mexicana de Festivales Cinematográficos) and in 2013 was the host of their national conference
- Gained recognition as an official IMDB Film Festival
The festival has already set up shop in Plaza San Jerónimo (on Macedonio Alcalá) where staff and volunteers are hard at work and, like last year, the site will serve as the festival’s Hospitality and Information Center.
Ramiz Adeeb Azar
If you love film, but have never been to a film festival, I highly encourage you to give it a try. Prior to relocating to Oaxaca, for 7 years, one of the highlights of my calendar year was volunteering at the Mill Valley Film Festival. Besides being a lot of fun (never forget, on my hands and knees mopping up spilled red wine at the feet of Katherine Ross and Sam Elliot), I had the opportunity to see some truly wonderful films — especially shorts and documentaries that are rarely shown in the big chain multiplexes. The MVFF was one of the things I missed most (along with crusty sourdough bread and being able to flush toilet paper down the toilet) when I moved down here.
However, along came the Oaxaca FilmFest and, though it didn’t satisfy my craving for sourdough bread or cause new plumbing to be installed in Oaxaca, it does come with a well-considered, eclectic, and always creative selection of films (feature-length and shorts) from all over the world.
Last year, El último hielero (The Last Ice Merchant) a touching documentary from Equador was a favorite of mine, as was The Cart, a humorous short from Russia. And, if the two short films Ramiz showed today — the animated, Sleight of Hand and the very moving, Part of the Change — were any indication, the selectors did a terrific job again this year. So, if you are in Oaxaca, get thee to the Oaxaca FilmFest4 information center at Plaza San Jerónimo and pick up your festival schedule or download it from the festival website.
FYI: All screenings are public and free (except Cinemex and Foundation Nights) and every film is projected in its original language, with Spanish, English, or dual subtitles.
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They ARE different
Posted in Culture, Economics, Education, Politics, Protests, tagged education, educational reforms, graffiti, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, political commentary, protests, street art, Teachers union, United States legislation, wall art on October 11, 2013| 13 Comments »
Expats and Mexicans alike, are watching in amazement at the nonsense (as in, making NO sense) taking place in the hallowed halls of Washington DC. And, since many of the expats are retired, we are holding our collective breath over the possibility social security checks will not be forthcoming in November and a tanking stock market that flushes our nest eggs away. Of course, Mexico is in the middle of its own mess, “educational reforms” and economic proposals that will hurt Mexico’s working class and rural populations the most.
Wall in Oaxaca city.
In a New York Times article two days ago, Carlos Puig explains the reality of the material conditions that have forced the teachers of Oaxaca to take the drastic action of abandoning their classrooms to lead massive and extremely disruptive protests in Mexico City against the “No Child Left Behind” style reforms that the Peña Nieto led government has proposed and passed. (Read a critique of the US education “reform” by Diane Ravitch, former “No Child Left Behind” proponent, here.)
Oaxaca is 500 kilometers from Mexico City, yet the real distance is much bigger. The state’s G.N.P. per capita is one-quarter the average for the country. Oaxaca ranks second-to-last among all states in infrastructure. More than half its population lives in towns of fewer than 2,500 people.
Being a teacher in Oaxaca means sometimes having to travel for an entire day to reach your school in a tiny community, teach for three days — to children of all grades — and travel back home for the weekend. It means having to deal with children who speak more than 20 different dialects.
Being a teacher in Oaxaca means operating in a different universe — and under different rules.
Banner hanging in front of a school in Oaxaca city
However, as in the USA, the incomprehensible words coming out of the mouths of the 1% and their elected representatives are mind-boggling in their obliviousness to the adverse consequences their behavior and policies cause. And, we scratch our heads in amazement… McClatchy journalist, Tim Johnson, has repeatedly blogged about the exceedingly “bad” behavior exhibited by Mexico City’s rich and powerful directed at those they consider “below” them — most recently, Las Ladies, episode 7. And, just last week in Oaxaca, most were aghast to read that an indigenous woman, in the advanced stage of labor, was turned away from a hospital and forced to give birth on the hospital lawn.
Daniel Goleman had a revealing piece in the New York Times a few days ago that helps explain where this lack of empathy the ruling elite exhibit, that results in callous social policy, comes from. He explains in Rich People Just Care Less that, by necessity, “the poor, compared with the wealthy, have keenly attuned interpersonal attention in all directions…” And that, “A growing body of recent research shows that people with the most social power pay scant attention to those with little such power” and, “In politics, readily dismissing inconvenient people can easily extend to dismissing inconvenient truths about them.”
Okay, now we know why the rich care less, so what are we going to do about it?
Part of a mural on Niños Heroes in Oaxaca city.
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