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Posts Tagged ‘Mexico’

Sights along the way

Posted in Churches, Creativity, Culture, Travel & Tourism, tagged , , , , , , , , , on November 23, 2024| 7 Comments »

Last January, I needed to go to the Aragal shipping facility to pick up a Christmas present — two jars of Salsa Macha made for me by K, best gal pal and former neighbor who was my personal cocinera (cook) during those dark days of Covid. The salsa made a circuitous journey from K’s kitchen in Teotitlán del Valle to my kitchen in Barrio de Jalatlaco. The route included being tucked in the back of our friend’s van while we all enjoyed a day trip to Ocotlán and San Antonino Castillo Velasco, once back in the city, being forgotten as I scrambled out of the van amidst bumper-to-bumper traffic, venturing up over the mountains to Puerto Escondido in said van, belatedly being remembered, and thus shipped by my van-owning friend back to me in Oaxaca.

And so, two weeks after it began its journey, I found myself walking south to Aragal to retrieve my errant gift. This is not a route I normally traverse and it’s definitely not in a touristy part of the city. However, being Oaxaca, there was no end of sights to surprise and delight — from the sacred of the Templo de los Siete Príncipes to the profane of the street art along the way.

Calle Mártires de Tacubaya
Calle Mártires de Tacubaya
Templo de los Siete Príncipes, Calle de González Ortega
Calle Santos Degollado
Calle Miguel Hidalgo

The two glass jars of Salsa Macha made it intact with only a tiny bit of leakage. Whew! And, no surprise, the salsa was super delicious.

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Muertos guys & gals

Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Holidays, Travel & Tourism, tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , on October 27, 2024| 9 Comments »

It’s Halloween time up here in el norte and the occasional house features spiders poised to pounce in webs strung across bushes, witches with broomsticks guard front gates, and pumpkins decorate entries signaling trick or treaters are welcome. A few skeletons have moved into the neighborhood but none are as well dressed and accessorized as those seen last year loitering on sidewalks, hanging out on walls, and dining in the restaurants of Oaxaca during Día de Muertos (Day of the Dead).

What can I say? I’m missing these guys and gals inhabiting Oaxaca this time of year.

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Here and there, it’s up to us

Posted in Creativity, Culture, Environment, Travel & Tourism, tagged , , , , , , , , , on October 15, 2024| Leave a Comment »

The world is your home. Take care!

Wall in Teotitlán del Valle, Oaxaca.

Never forget…

Recycling bin in Mill Valley, California.

No matter where one lives, the fate of the earth is in our hands.

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10 years and counting…

Posted in Creativity, Culture, Education, History, Politics, Protests, Tragedy, Violence, tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , on September 25, 2024| 8 Comments »

It’s been ten excruciating and heartbreaking years since the horrific events during the night of September 26 to 27 unfolded on the streets of Guerrero in the town of Iguala. The murder that night of three students, wounding of several more, and disappearance of 43 students all from Escuela Normal Rural Raúl Isidro Burgos, a teachers’ college in Ayotzinapa, Guerrero, has continued to haunt Mexico’s national conscience, much like the 1968 Tlatelolco massacre in Mexico City — a commemoration the students were enroute to attend.

As news of that unspeakable night ten years ago spread, demonstrations were organized throughout Mexico — and soon the world — calling for justice and the return of the missing 43 student teachers (normalistas). Artists, as they have done throughout history, used their talent to give visual voice to the grief, outrage, and resolve to uncover the truth. And, I began documenting what I saw on the streets of Oaxaca.

October 8, 2014 — massive march through the streets of Oaxaca. “Wretched are the people who remain silent when their children are killed WAKE UP.”
October 21, 2015 – Images of the missing 43 normalistas hang above Oaxaca’s Zócalo.
June 18, 2016 – Face of one of the 43 missing students stares out from a wall in the city.
October 26, 2017 – One of the many stencils by the revolutionary artist collective URTARTE.
February 7, 2018 – Stencil by URTARTE calling for justice for the Ayotzinapa 43 missing students.
February 12, 2019 – On a wall near the corner of highway 190 and Av. Benito Juárez.
February 13, 2020 – On a wooden barricade blocking the sidewalk at a construction site.
October 6, 2021 – Stencil by the Colectivo Subterráneos stating, “Because we Oaxacans have memory and dignity, we demand justice.”

Here we are ten years later and the missing 43 are still missing, the heartbreak continues, the truth remains hidden, and justice has yet to be served. However, no one has forgotten. On this tenth anniversary, protest marches are being held, conferences have been organized, articles continue to be written, artists continue to create, families continue to mourn, and the people vow they will not be silent and the Ayotzinapa 43 will never be forgotten.

For more information in English:

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More from Mitla

Posted in Archaeology, Creativity, Culture, History, Travel & Tourism, tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , on September 5, 2024| 5 Comments »

A (somewhat) belated companion to my Mitla’s mysterious underground blog post from May.

Mitla – Columns Group
Mitla – Columns Group, Patio of the Grecas
Mitla – Columns Group, Patio of Tombs
Mitla – Arroyo Group
Mitla – Adobe Group
Mitla – Adobe Group

And, this latest video (in English) from the ARX Project, where they describe what they have found beneath the above Groups and their speculations.

h/t Margie Barclay

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Close encounters of the mural kind

Posted in Creativity, Culture, Travel & Tourism, tagged , , , , , , , on August 11, 2024| 5 Comments »

On the streets of Oaxaca, you never know when you will see…

San Pablo Villa de Mitla – November 1, 2023
Oaxaca de Juárez – November 11, 2023
Oaxaca de Juárez – January 8, 2024

…close encounters of the mural kind.

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La Guelaguetza from afar

Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Travel & Tourism, tagged , , , , , , , , , on July 27, 2024| Leave a Comment »

July is “mes de la Guelaguetza” in Oaxaca. Alas, I am still in el norte and missing the festivities — though not the crowds! However, you can join me, from the comfort of your home, in viewing both last Saturday’s and today’s Desfile de Delegaciones (Parade of Delegations) and the July 22 and July 29 matutina (morning) and vespertina (evening) Lunes del Cerro dance performances on CORTV’s YouTube channel. I will be sure to be watching today’s desfile and the Monday (July 29) morning transmission live, as the Grupo Danza de la Pluma Promesa 2022-2024 from Teotitlán del Valle is one of the delegations.

Danza de la Pluma Promesa 2022-2024 — from their first public performance at the festival honoring Preciosa Sangre de Nuestro Señor Jesucristo in Teotitlán de Valle.

As many of you know, blogger buddy Chris and I have helped sponsor dancers for nine years and it has been a great honor and privilege to get to know several of the dancers and their families in Teotitlán del Valle.

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Good things, small packages

Posted in Culture, People, tagged , , , , , , , , on July 10, 2024| 8 Comments »

No one exemplified the old adage, “Good things come in small packages” more than Leonor Lazo González. I met Leonor in February 2008 during my second trip to the Zapotec village of Teotitlán del Valle. I’d met her son, Samuel Bautista Lazo, during my first visit to Oaxaca the previous year and he was anxious and very proud to introduce me to his family.

February 2008 – Leonor with Mario Bautista (husband) and sons Celestino and Samuel Bautista Lazo.

From that very first meeting I could tell that, while diminutive in stature, Leonor had an enormous presence that radiated strength, inner peace, and joy. And, she had a smile that could light up the universe!

March 2023 – Leonor in the Holy Monday procession.
March 2013 – Leonor with family during Holy Week.

Once I moved to Oaxaca and began spending a lot of time in Teotitlán, I always looked forward to seeing her at her stall in the mercado, running into her during a village celebration, or stopping by the family home.

August 2016 – Leonor with Samuel dying yarn.
August 2016 – Leonor stirring dye bath.
August 2016 – Samuel, Leonor, and yours truly with my new rug created by the family.

In the words of her son, she was, “a loving warrior, a great mother, teacher, artist, healer, weaver and business savvy, daughter of the abuelas of the Pleiades.”

December 2017 – Leonor feeding one of her baby goats.

With great sadness, I must speak of Leonor in the past tense. After a long and valiant battle, she has moved on in her journey. As Sam wrote announcing her passing, “she will be at peace wherever consciousness goes after life and that her legacy will continue and that she will live in our memories and will continue to come back to be celebrated with life every year for Na’ tugul, day of the dead.” Rest in peace and power, dear Leonor.

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Guiding spirits, Oaxaca to Denver

Posted in Creativity, Culture, Exhibitions, Travel & Tourism, tagged , , , , , , , , , on June 30, 2024| 6 Comments »

One of the joys of life in Oaxaca is being surrounded by artists, meeting them, and watching their creations take shape. As 2023 was about to come to a close, friends and I spent the day visiting some of our favorite villages to the south of the city. First stop was breakfast in the Ocotlán de Morelos mercado at the stall of Beatriz Vázquez Gómez. Beatriz is famous not only for looking and dressing like Frida Kahlo, but also for serving delicious traditional Oaxacan food. Our next stop was San Antonino Castillo Velasco for their holiday food and artesanía feria where we strolled the aisles of embroidered blouses and dresses, artesanía, and (of course) mezcal. Working up an appetite (What, eating again?) we shared San Antonino’s famous and filling, empanadas de amarillo.

Our last stop of the day was in San Martín Tilcajete. It was at the workshop of Jacobo and María Ángeles where we stumbled on giant fantastical creatures that were being intricately painted in preparation for their journey to Denver, Colorado to be featured in an exhibition at the Denver Botanic Garden entitled, Spirit Guides: Fantastical Creatures.

In the words of Jacobo and María, “These monumental pieces are distinguished by a meticulous carving process and a painting technique that highlights a vibrant palette of colors. This technique not only stands out for its visual beauty, but is also linked to the research and preservation of Zapotec symbology, granting a profound meaning to this artistic and artisanal production.”

“Spirit Guides is an unforgettable outdoor experience reminding us of the profound connections that bind us to the inhabitants of the natural (and cosmological) world.”

So, should you find yourself in the Denver area before the exhibition’s last day on September 8, 2024, let your spirit guide you to the Denver Botanic Gardens.

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Feliz Día del Padre

Posted in Celebrations, Children, Creativity, Culture, Holidays, Travel & Tourism, tagged , , , , , , , , , , , on June 16, 2024| Leave a Comment »

To all the fathers (biological and adoptive), stepfathers, grandfathers, godfathers, and father figures everywhere, I wish you Happy Father’s Day as you continue sharing traditions…

teaching skills…

and, most of all, caring.

May you fulfill your most valuable role with great love, kindness, and respect.

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Mitla’s mysterious underground

Posted in Archaeology, Churches, Creativity, Culture, History, Travel & Tourism, tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , on May 17, 2024| 3 Comments »

Noted for its intricate stone fretwork and megalithic architecture, the Mitla ruins are considered the second most important archaeological site in the state of Oaxaca. Prior to the arrival of the Spanish, it was a predominant religious and ceremonial center for the Zapotec people. Legend has it that the entrance to a vast underground labyrinth of passageways leading to Lyobaa, Zapotec for “place of rest,” lies sealed beneath the altar of Iglesia de San Pablo, the 16th century Catholic church that towers above the village of Mitla. As was the practice of the Spanish missionaries, the Zapotec site was destroyed and the church was built on top of the ruins in an attempt to exorcise “pagan” beliefs.

Last November, I had the privilege of touring the Mitla archaeological site with Ludovic Celle, one of the co-founders of the ARX Project — a multidisciplinary team using non-invasive imaging to detect and explore the mysteries of Mitla’s legendary underground caverns and tunnels thought to lead to the underworld. In the 17th century they were described by Spanish priest, Francisco de Burgoa but were well known by the people of Mitla long before the arrival of the Spanish.

Photos from the Church Group, where ARX Project imaging has detected the subterranean caverns and tunnels.

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Last time I climbed Picacho

Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Holidays, Religion, Travel & Tourism, tagged , , , , , , , on May 4, 2024| Leave a Comment »

Yesterday, May 3, Mexico celebrated Día de la Santa Cruz (Day of the Holy Cross). Tradition calls for workers to erect crosses festooned with flowers at the highest point on construction sites. According to Mexconnect, in 1960, Pope John XXIII removed Día de la Santa Cruz from the liturgical calendar, but Mexico being Mexico and construction workers being construction workers, they ignored the Pope.  Eventually, understanding the relationship of forces, he gave Mexico a special dispensation to celebrate on this day.

In the Zapotec village of Teotitlán del Valle, the custom is to climb their sacred mountain, el Picacho (Quie Guia Betz in Zapotec). The trail winds along the face of the mountain with almost no shade. It’s a challenge, but the vistas and community spirit at the top makes it well worth it. As I sit here (still) in el norte at the foot of Mt. Tamalpais, my sacred mountain — mountain of my childhood dreams, teen driving lessons, and place of retreat — I’m remembering the last time I climbed el Picacho…

Inviting the rain atop Picacho

Let us hope Cosijo hears the prayers and rain starts falling on drought stricken Oaxaca.

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Published in the WSJ

Posted in Creativity, Culture, Travel & Tourism, tagged , , , , , , , on April 13, 2024| 21 Comments »

Unbelievably, the Wall Street Journal contacted me two months ago about writing an article describing life as a retiree living in Oaxaca. This article, hot off the presses, is the result: Retiring in Mexico: A Former Librarian Reflects on 15 Years in Oaxaca.

And, to add a little color to this blog post, here are a few of my old photos that didn’t make the WSJ cut.

Carnaval in San Martín Tilcajete – February 2018
Grecas at San Pablo Villa de Mitla archeological site – November 2023
Noche de Rabanos in Oaxaca de Juárez – December 2017

The article may come up behind a paywall. Unfortunately, according to the contract I signed, I can’t republish the article here. However, if you have a public library card, you can probably access it through their digital resources link. It is also scheduled to be published in the print edition of the Wall Street Journal on April 15, 2024. I hope you like it!

(ps) If you’re having trouble accessing the online article, people have reported that when the WSJ subscription box pops up, click the X in the subscription box and then scroll down to the article, though, if you use Safari, you might have to change browsers.

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Vehicular juxtaposition

Posted in Creativity, Culture, Transportation, Travel & Tourism, tagged , , , , , , , , , on April 4, 2024| 4 Comments »

Sometimes the sights along the streets of Oaxaca make me chuckle.

And, I just have to stop and record the scene.

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Missing Viernes Santo

Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Holidays, Neighborhoods, Religion, Travel & Tourism, tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , on March 29, 2024| 4 Comments »

Except for the patter of rain and the sound of the occasional car on wet pavement, all is gray and quiet on this Good Friday in my San Francisco Bay Area home. I miss the colorful and creative sights and sounds of Viernes Santo in Oaxaca. Thus, today finds me looking back to the Santo Viacrucis (Holy Way of the Cross) procession last year in Barrio de Jalatlaco on Viernes Santo.

8th Station of the Cross where Jesús meets the women of Jerusalem.
1st Station of the Cross where Jesús is condemned to death.

7th Station of the Cross where Jesús falls for the second time.
Jesús carrying the cross through the streets of the Jalatlaco neighborhood.
John the Baptist follows Jesús.
Mary Magdalene following Jesús.
María heading toward her final encuentro (meeting) with her son.
Jesús enroute to his final encuentro (meeting) with his mother.
María and Jesús in their final encuentro (meeting).

While I don’t subscribe to any religion, the people of Oaxaca, their devotion, and their creativity in celebrating their faith always moves me.

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