Posted in Celebrations, Culture, Travel & Tourism, tagged braiding, braids, calenda, celebrations, desfile, Guelaguetza, hair, Mexico, Oaxaca, parade, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations on July 18, 2015| Leave a Comment »
It was all about the braids as the delegations and storm clouds gathered along Independencia for the Guelaguetza desfile (parade).
The heavens opened, umbrellas unfolded, rain ponchos were donned, and cover was sought by spectators and delegations, alike. But, stay tuned, the show DID go on!
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Exhibitions, Travel & Tourism, tagged Alejandro Guzman Vera, Danza de los Rubios, exhibitions, Guelaguetza, mascaras, masks, Mexico, Mixtec region, Oaxaca, Palacio de Gobierno, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, Santiago Juxtlahuaca, video on July 14, 2015| 2 Comments »
I love the carved masks worn in many of the traditional dances in Mexico and, thus, made a bee-line to the current exhibition at the Palacio de Gobierno, Máscaras de Juxtlahuaca — part of the month-long celebration of Guelaguetza.
Most of the masks in the show are the work of Alejandro Guzman Vera, a native of Santiago Juxtlahuaca in the Mixtec region of Oaxaca. He was born in 1972 and, as a young child, made his first mask of cardboard and painted it with crayons. At age 12, he carved his first wooden mask. He went on to study at the Escuela Nacional de Artes Plasticas and has become one of the premier mask-makers in Mexico. He has exhibited world-wide and is one of the honored Grandes Maestros del Arte Popular de Oaxaca, profiled in the book by the same name. By the way, he is not only a mask-maker, but also an accomplished musician and is playing a role in the rescue of the traditional music of Juxtlahuaca.
(Click on an image to enlarge it and to enable a slideshow.)
Dancers from Santiago Juxtlahuaca will be performing the Danza de los Rubios in the morning Guelaguetza presentation on July 27 and will, no doubt, be wearing masks, cracking their whips, and jingling their spurs during the Procession of Delegations on the preceding Saturday. For a glimpse at the Danza de los Rubios and to get a feeling for some of the music Alejandro Guzman Vera is involved in saving, here is a snippet from last year’s Guelaguetza performance:
Masks are donned not only for the Danza de los Rubios, but also for the Danza de los Diablos and the Danza del Macho, which are performed at various annual festivals in the region. Once carved and painted, the wooden masks can be embellished with glass eyes and real animal teeth and horns of bulls, goats, or deer. They are an amazing sight to see!
The Máscaras de Juxtlahuaca exhibition at the Museo del Palacio in Oaxaca city closes August 28, 2015.
(This blog post is especially for you, Jane and Ken!)
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Textiles, Travel & Tourism, tagged Guelaguetza, Loma Bonita, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, San Antonino Castillo Velasco, San Antonio Huitepec, San Jerónimo Tlacochahuaya, San Juan Bautista Tuxtepec, San Juan Cacahuatepec, San Pedro Comitancillo on July 13, 2015| 6 Comments »
Next Monday, the the 83rd annual modern Guelaguetza will commence on Cerro Fortín. And so, the last of my photos from last year’s evening performance…
I’ll resume my coverage with the San Paliluú of San Antonio Huitepec a village from the Valles Centrales region.
San Pedro Comitancillo performed the Danzas y Sones de Mi Tierra from the Istmo de Tehuantepec region.
And then there was the Danza de la Pluma. Moctezuma, Danzantes, Malinche, and Doña Marina from San Jerónimo Tlacochahuaya, in the Valles Centrales region, performed one of the dances that reenacts the story of the Conquest.
Loma Bonita in the Tuxtepec region, very near the the state of Veracruz, then took the stage with its rousing Rinconcito Oaxaqueño.
The sun began to set as 36 beautiful women from San Juan Bautista Tuxtepec in the Papaloapam region, wearing their with brightly colored huipiles, took to the stage for the crowd pleasing Flor de Piña.
Darkness began to fall (making for challenging photography from 1/3rd of the way up from the Guelaguetza Auditorium stage), as the lively Sones and Chilenos danced by the delagation from the Costa region village of San Juan Cacahuatepec kept the energy flowing.
La Dote y el Tercel Día e Fandango from the dancers of San Antonino Castillo Velasco in the Valles Centrales region closed the evening’s performances.
As fireworks exploded over the Guelaguetza Auditorium, the band played, the audience took to its feet, and delegations reclaimed the stage to dance the evening’s Guelaguetza performance to a close.
Now on to La Guelaguetza 2015!
Posted in Celebrations, Culture, Exhibitions, Food, Music, Travel & Tourism, tagged Donaji La Leyenda Infantil, Expo Feria de Queso y Quesillo, Feria Regional de Hongos Silvestres, Festival de los Moles, Globos de Papel, Guelaguetza, Guelaguetza Muy Especial, Oaxaca, popular travel destinations, posters, Regional Guelaguetzas, Susana Harp on July 12, 2015| Leave a Comment »
Calendas (parades) are already occurring on the city’s streets and banners advertising Guelaguetza events are hanging from street lights on the major calles. Below are just a handful (or two) of the activities coming up. (Click each poster for a larger and more readable image.)
For a more complete list, check out this schedule of events from the Secretaría de Turismo y Desarrollo Económico (Ministry of Tourism and Economic Development):
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Textiles, Travel & Tourism, tagged dance, Fandango de Cajón, Guelaguetza, Jarabe Mixteco, La Llevada del Guajolote, Mayordomía de San Andrés, Mexico, Oaxaca, Ocotlán de Morelos, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, pozahuanco, San Andrés Huaxpaltepec, San Melchor Betaza on July 6, 2015| 4 Comments »
Last year, wearing the whitest of white huipiles, skirts, shirts, and pants, the delegation from San Melchor Betaza, in the Sierra Norte Region of Oaxaca, danced the sones and jarabes from their community.
I don’t know how the turkey felt as he took center stage when Ocotlán de Morelos, from the Valles Centrales Region, performed La Llevada del Guajolote, a dance dating to the 19th century.
The dances by the delegation from San Andrés Huaxpaltepec, from the Costa Region, offered the action of the Fandango de Cajón and the grace of the Mayordomía with women wearing stark white mandiles (shawls) and caracol dyed purple pozahuancos (wrap skirts).
As the first few notes of the Canción Mixteca were played, the audience rose and, as one, began waving their hats and singing the beloved song of the Mixteca Region. With the audience warmed up, the gals from Huajuapan de León began dancing the Jarabe Mixteco — twirling and tempting the guys with their flirty skirts.
Click HERE for last Monday’s part 1. Stay tuned for more next Monday, as the countdown to this year’s Guelaguetza festivities continues.
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Textiles, Travel & Tourism, tagged Canada, dancers, Danza de los Rubios, Guelaguetza, Guelaguetza Auditorium, Huautla de Jimenez, Ixtepec, Mexico, Mixteca, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, Santiago Juxtlahuaca, Sones Mazatecos, Tehuantepec, Vela "Esmeralda" on June 29, 2015| 5 Comments »
Three weeks from today, despite the Never-ending tale of the velaria, the 83rd annual Guelaguetza performances on Cerro Fortín commence. Yikes, was it really almost a year ago that one of my childhood BFFs and I walked up the hill to the auditorium to revel in the music, costumes, dances, view, fireworks, and all-around conviviality of festivities? There is always so much going on during the last two weeks of July, that I only got around to posting a few photos from that evening. Today, and for the following two Mondays, I’m going to attempt to remedy that. Better late than never!
The dancers from Santiago Juxtlahuaca, in the Mixteca, performed the rip-roaring Danza de los Rubios…
And, from the Istmo de Tehuantepec region, the beautiful women and dashing men from Ixtepec presented Vela “Esmeralda”…
That’s all folks! But, more to come next Monday.Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Holidays, Travel & Tourism, tagged Andri Cauldwell quote, Black and white photography, Carnaval, Doña Marina, Guelaguetza, Mexico, Moctezuma, musicians, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, Santiago Juxtlahuaca, Teotitlán del Valle, Tlacolula de Matamoros on September 19, 2014| 6 Comments »
After a visit to Centro Fotográfico Manuel Álvarez Bravo, I’m seeing the color of Oaxaca in black and white…
“To see in color is a delight for the eye but to see in black and white is a delight for the soul.” – Andri Cauldwell
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Travel & Tourism, tagged Desfile de Delegaciones, Guelaguetza, mascaras, masks, Mexico, Oaxaca, Parade of Delegations, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations on July 31, 2014| Leave a Comment »
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Protests, Transportation, Travel & Tourism, tagged blockade, bloqueo, dancers, Danza de la Pluma, danzantes, Flor de piña, Guelaguetza, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, pineapple dancers, Seccion 22, Villa de Etla on July 29, 2014| 8 Comments »
Last Monday, L and I had a leisurely hike up the hill from my apartment to the Guelaguetza Auditorium, sat in stadium seats almost 20 rows up, looking down on the enormous circular concrete stage with the city and mountains providing a picturesque backdrop.
Yesterday, I hopped on a bus, heading for another Guelaguetza performance, this time in Villa de Etla. However, a bloqueo (blockade) by Sección 22 of the teachers’ union had the bus turning around, doubling back, and taking a circuitous route that eventually wound its way through the narrow streets of Santa Rosa. Once we got back on the main road, I transferred to a colectivo and arrived in Etla just as the dancing was about to begin — this time on a small temporary wood-plank stage, that seemed to shake with every dance step. The setting wasn’t quite as spectacular, but, there I was, within an arm’s reach of the dancers!
Danza de la Pluma
Flor de Piña
With the exception of the Danza de la Pluma, these dancers are from a folkloric group that performs each of the traditional regional dances. As you can see from their faces, they dance with as much joy and pride as the delegations from the villages at the big Guelaguetza.
Returning home was its own adventure. Last week, L and I only had to navigate sidewalks, pathways, and stairs along with the other 11,000 attendees. Yesterday, Chris (see his Guelaguetza in Etla – 2014 post) gave me a ride to a bus stop where, after about 10 minutes, I caught the bus that would deposit me a half block from Casita Colibrí. Alas, the best laid plans… Just before the intersection up to Cerro Fortín, masked maestros (teachers) surrounded the bus, our driver shrugged, opened the doors, and off we passengers got. It was hot, I was tired, but what else was there to do? I hoofed it to halfway between the Museo del Ferrocarril (Railroad Museum) and Morelos Park, when another bus materialized, I climbed aboard, giving my feet a much-needed rest, and let the driver navigate the clogged streets that took me back to home sweet home.
It was a fun and frustrating AND exhilarating and exhausting kind of day.
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Music, People, Travel & Tourism, tagged Guelaguetza, Lila Downs, Mexico, music, Oaxaca, photographs, photos on July 26, 2014| 1 Comment »
One of the qualities that amazes me about most Oaxaqueños is their patience with waiting in interminable lines. On the one hand, I think those north of the border could take some much-needed lessons in civil and well-mannered behavior. However, on the other hand, I think Oaxaqueños deserve much better than having to stand in endless lines, be it the bank, a government agency, or to get tickets to a concert by their favorite daughter, Lila Downs.
Last year, unable to figure out the hows and wheres of getting a ticket to her free concert during the ten days of the Guelaguetza festivities, I was on the verge of giving up getting tickets to see Lila Downs, when friends coming in from out-of-town(!), offered a couple to me. Of course, I accepted!
This year, after several false leads, on Tuesday morning L and I climbed back up to the Guelaguetza Auditorium to try to score some tickets to this year’s free concert. The box office was scheduled to open at 9 AM, we got up there at 8:30 AM and found ourselves at the end of a line that stretch halfway to the planetarium AND that continued to grow as the hours ticked by. Abuelos, niños, moms, dads, and teens lined the pathway, talking on cell phones, eating, talking, and laughing — without a raised voice or harsh word spoken.
At almost 10 AM, when the line hadn’t moved an inch, I walked down the hill to the box office to see what was happening. Nothing, as it turned out!
However, good-natured patience finally succumbed to whistles and shouts by those who were in the line of sight of the ticket booth — after all, according to the newspaper they had begun lining up at 4:30 AM!!!
I wound my way back up the hill to report my findings to L. Alas, after another 45 minutes of no movement, impatient gringas that we are, we gave up. However, to borrow from the musical Sound of Music, “somewhere in [our] youth or childhood, [we] must have done something good,” because 48 hours later, my neighbor presented us with tickets! And so last night, we climbed back up Cerro Fortín to see Lila Downs. We were very happy campers.
She put on another spectacular show — mixing new tunes with old, incorporating several of the Guelaguetza delegations into the production, and generally bringing cheers and sing-a-long voices from the hometown crowd. By the end, everyone was on their feet.
Posted in Celebrations, Culture, Travel & Tourism, tagged Chinas Oaxaqueñas, dance, Diosa Centéotl, Guelaguetza, Jacqueline Reyes Rosario Sarabia, Lunes del Cerro, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos on July 25, 2014| 2 Comments »
So much to see and do, so little time to process photos and post — should all our problems be so enjoyable! However, before tonight’s Lila Downs concert, tomorrow’s Desfile de Delagaciones (parade of delegations), and Monday’s Guelaguetza in Etla (and that’s only a few of the activities on the dance card), a glimpse from the beginning of Monday evening’s Guelaguetza performance.
Diosa Centéotl, Jacqueline Reyes Rosario Sarabia began the presentation of Lunes del Cerro (aka, la Guelaguetza).
As tradition dictates, she was followed by the convite (procession) of Chinas Oaxaqueñas with their band, monos, and banners.
They filled the stage, dancing the Jarabe del Valle to the cheering crowd.
It was a balmy evening, the view was spectacular, fourteen more delegations danced their way into the night, and a dazzling display of fireworks exploded above the open-air auditorium to conclude the show.
And, they do it all again this coming Monday — hopefully, the kinks will be worked out for the live streaming, so no matter where you are, you can watch and enjoy the morning and/or evening performances.
Posted in Celebrations, Culture, People, Travel & Tourism, tagged Desfile de Delegaciones, Diosa Centéotl, Expo Feria de Queso y Quesillo, Guelaguetza, Jacqueline Reyes Rosario Sarabia, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos on July 21, 2014| 3 Comments »
This post is really just an excuse to post photos of two young women who are presiding over this year’s Guelaguetza activities. The first is the Reina (queen) of the 4th Expo Feria del Queso y Quesillo. She is a writer, loves books, and her eyes lit up (even more!) when I told her I was a librarian. She and her mother were so gracious and radiated joy and warmth. Alas, I didn’t catch her name; if anyone knows, please post in comments.
Friday evening, the Diosa Centéotl (corn goddess) was chosen to reign over this year’s Guelaguetza. Jacqueline Reyes Rosario Sarabia, a native of Santo Domingo Tehuantepec, Oaxaca, was selected from 33 participants who represented the 8 regions of the state of Oaxaca in a 2-part competition. Each entrant was required to make a presentation, in both her native language and in Spanish, about the gastronomy, crafts, dances, legends, traditions, and customs of her village and on the clothing of her region. Even though we were way in the back, Jacqueline caught our attention with her impassioned speech. One of the first of her duties was to lead yesterday’s desfile (parade of the Guelaguetza delegations) through the streets of the city of Oaxaca.
I love Jacqueline’s reaction when her name was announced as Diosa Centéotl 2014.
Posted in Celebrations, Culture, Music, Travel & Tourism, tagged dance, Guelaguetza, Guelaguetza Auditorium, Live streaming, Mexico, music, Oaxaca, popular on July 21, 2014| 1 Comment »
Live streaming of the Guelaguetza performances at the Guelaguetza auditorium atop Cerro del Fortín, July 21 and 28 at 10 AM and 5 PM (Central Daylight Time).
http://new.livestream.com/radical-bits/guelaguetza-2014
Update: La Guelaguetza 2014 is over, however you can view all the performances on Vive Oaxaca’s YouTube channel.
Posted in Culture, Food, Music, Travel & Tourism, tagged artesania, calendar of events, Expo Feria de Queso y Quesillo, Feria Internacional del Mezcal, Feria Regional de Hongos Silvestres, Guelaguetza, Lila Downs, Mexico, Oaxaca, posters on July 18, 2014| 4 Comments »
I’m back in Oaxaca — and I’m not the only one! The city’s streets and sidewalks are more congested than usual as tourists, both national and international, have begun pouring in. Why? you ask. They have come for the annual Guelaguetza folkloric performances the next two Mondays on Cerro Fortin in Oaxaca city. And, a few might even venture out to join locals at the more intimate Guelaguetzas in many of the villages that surround the city.
There will be food and drink ferias and festivals…
There will be calendas (parades), expo-ventas (artisan sales), and exhibitions…
There will be concerts, including this one by Lila Downs…
And, SO much more! The above posters illustrate just a fraction of the activities surrounding the Lunes del Cerro (Mondays on the hill). For a more comprehensive, though not by any means complete, list of events, check out the calendar below.
Sheesh, it seems like they add more things to do and see every year. However, I’m looking forward to showing and sharing as much of it as possible with friends.
Click on each poster for a larger (more readable) image.
Posted in Celebrations, Culture, Travel & Tourism, tagged Asunción Ixtaltepec, costumes, desfile, Edna St. Vincent Millay quote, El Espinal, Guelaguetza, Mexico, Oaxaca, Ocotlán de Morelos, parades, photographs, photos, San Agustín Loxicha, San Jerónimo Tecóatl, San Juan Bautista Tuxtepec, San Juan Cacahualtepec, San Pablo Villa de Mitla, San Pedro y San Pablo Ayutla, Santo Tomás Ocotepec, traje, Villa de Tututepec de Melchor on August 16, 2013| 6 Comments »
“Beauty is whatever gives joy.” — Edna St. Vincent Millay
Some of the beautiful women, young and old, of this year’s Guelaguetza desfiles.
Mexican Peso Converter
View From Casita Colibrí 