It’s that time of year, again. Daylight doesn’t last quite as long, the large red-orange blossoms of the African tulip trees have mostly fallen (onto my terrace!), and the hummingbirds have mostly departed, leaving the airspace to the dragonflies and butterflies.
However, the season of yellow marigolds (cempazuchitl) and the yellows, oranges, and purples of flor inmortal (immortal flower) has begun and that means Días de los Muertos and Noche de Rabanos can’t be far behind.
In the meantime, during the past week, Teotitlán del Valle celebrated La Santísima Virgen del Rosario and early Friday evening, the unmarried girls and women gathered with their canastas for the traditional convite (holy procession).
And, given the season, flor inmortal played a prominent role in the decorations of many of the canastas.
And, as always, I’m amazed and captivated by the girls and women who, with arms raised, balance these sizable baskets on their head, as they navigate the sacred route along the cobbled (and, this day, rain-slicked) streets of Teotitlán del Valle — for almost an hour!
It’s a scene that I never tire of — of course, I’m not carrying a canasta on my head!
More photos and commentary over at Oaxaca-The Year After.
Posted in Celebrations, Culture, Religion, Travel & Tourism | Tagged convite, Fiesta de la Virgen del Rosario, flor inmortal, La Santísima Virgen del Rosario, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, Teotitlán del Valle, travel, Virgin of the Rosary | 3 Comments »
Fifteen hundred years may have passed since Monte Albán was in full bloom as the center of Zapotec civilization. However, the flowering continues…
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Monte Albán on an early October morning.
Posted in Archaeology, Environment, Gardens, Parks & Plazas, Science & Nature, Travel & Tourism | Tagged archaelogical site, archaeological zone, archaeology, flowers, Mexico, Monte Albán, nature, Oaxaca, photography, photos, plants, popular travel destinations, wildflowers | 2 Comments »
… there you are.
Monte Albán on a picture perfect autumn morning.
Posted in Archaeology, Buildings, Culture, Parks & Plazas, Travel & Tourism | Tagged archaelogical site, archaeological zone, archaeology, Mexico, Monte Albán, Oaxaca, photography, photos, popular travel destinations | 3 Comments »
Instead of the coming of age novel, A Tree Grows in Brooklyn, we have the real life drama of a tree falls in Oaxaca. Heading down to the mercado this morning, I was brought up short by this heartbreaking sight.
According to reports, there were many present to hear and see one of the grand 130+ year old Indian laurels topple during a storm on Saturday night. And, worst of all, ten people were injured, two seriously. Trees in the city, including Indian laurels in the Zócalo, have been plagued by adversity. A laurel in the Zócalo fell a few years ago, damaging a nearby building, and most recently in May 2011, I wrote about a laurel on the Alameda that toppled. Resurrection was attempted and guy-wires remain to this day holding it upright. I guess the experts decided this latest one was beyond rescue.
Controversy reigns, as many assert that these trees should be able to withstand the rain and less-than gale force winds. Thus speculation over the cause runs rampant. Root rot appears to be the immediate culprit but the big question is, why?
And, as Chris sadly noted a couple of months ago, regarding the diseased flamboyant trees in front of Santo Domingo de Guzmán, Any tree is hard to replace.
Posted in Environment, Gardens, Parks & Plazas, Science & Nature, Weather | Tagged Alameda, Indian Laurel tree, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, trees, zócalo | Leave a Comment »
All things on earth point home in old October; sailors to sea, travellers to walls and fences… — Thomas Wolfe.
It’s good to be back in Oaxaca.
Posted in Creativity, Culture, Travel & Tourism | Tagged art, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, street art, thomas wolfe | 2 Comments »
September 28, 2012 by spixl
I’m back in Oaxaca… arrived last night after a brief trip to El Norte. However, over the last three years, culture shock (on both sides of the border) has subsided and I am struck and heartened that despite our differences, humans share so much more… especially the compulsion to make even the most common and utilitarian, beautiful.
Artist, Zio Ziegler added a little pizzazz to a car in Mill Valley… (Yes, I know, a Porche!)
Car in Oaxaca… (Ahhh, a VW bug!)
Wall in Mill Valley (also by Zio Ziegler)…
Wall in Oaxaca…
Veggies in Mill Valley…
Veggies in Oaxaca…
From one of my favorite journalists, Linda Ellerbee: “People are pretty much alike. It’s only that our differences are more susceptible to definition than our similarities.”
Save
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Posted in Creativity, Culture, Markets, Travel & Tourism | Tagged automobilies, California, cars, farmers' market, Linda Ellerbee quote, markets, mercados, Mexico, Mill Valley, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, Porche, similarities, vegetables, VW bug, wall art, Zio Ziegler | 12 Comments »
September 26, 2012 by spixl
Lost or discarded?
Artist found and created in Sausalito, Ca. You better believe it!
And please, don’t “liberate” any of the found objects, in other words… stop stealing!!!
La lucha continúa. Paz y amor a todos.
Posted in Creativity, Serendipity, Travel & Tourism | Tagged art, art car, California, found objects, Marin County, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, Sausalito | 3 Comments »
September 24, 2012 by spixl
I grew up and lived most of my life twenty minutes from the Pacific Ocean. I learned to drive on the road up over Mt. Tamalpais out to Stinson, Muir, and Bolinas beaches. Needless to say, countless trips followed and continue! So, yesterday I made my regular “Bay Area visit” pilgrimage to the beach. Even on a foggy day, the sights, sounds, and smells of Stinson Beach are magical…
Alas, it’s 6 hours by car up and over the long and winding roads of the Sierra Madre del Sur to reach Puerto Escondido, Oaxaca’s closest Pacific Ocean beach. The alternatives: 10+ hours by bus (by way of Salina Cruz) or a short but costly flight. Still waiting for the long-promised highway that is supposed to cut auto travel time to two hours!!!
Posted in Science & Nature, Travel & Tourism | Tagged beaches, California, foggy day, Marin County, Mexico, Oaxaca, Pacific Ocean, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, Puerto Escondido, San Francisco Bay Area, Stinson Beach | 1 Comment »
September 22, 2012 by spixl
Like the space shuttle Endeavor, I am making a brief visit to the San Francisco Bay Area.
As you can see, I wasn’t the only person who decided Fort Baker in Sausalito offered a great viewing site for yesterday’s shuttle tour of the Bay Area. Take off from Edwards Air Force Base was delayed an hour to avoid San Francisco’s ubiquitous fog. However, we eventually spotted Endeavor as it flew in over the Marin Headlands.
I arrived crammed in the Economy class of a Boeing 737, my view limited to a porthole size window. Endeavor had a bird’s-eye view as it rode piggyback on top of a Boeing 747.
Endeavor circled around and buzzed the Golden Gate Bridge. It was a spectacular sight!
I will be landing at OAX in a few days on my way back to Casita Colibrí, while the Endeavor has already landed at LAX en-route to its new home at the California Science Center, where it will eventually be put on permanent display.
I suspect Endeavor didn’t encounter this much traffic as it left the Bay Area. However, just wait until it has to navigate Los Angeles freeways!
Posted in Nature & Science, Travel & Tourism | Tagged aviation Boeing 747, California, California Science Center, Fort Baker, Golden Gate Bridge, Marin County, Marin Headlands, Sausalito, space shuttle Endeavor, transportation, travel | 1 Comment »
September 20, 2012 by spixl
What’s your internet connection like?
Do you think the cactus help?
Posted in Buildings, Gardens | Tagged buildings, cactus, Internet, Internet cafe, Inter_NetJoly, Mexico, Oaxaca, photography, photos | 2 Comments »
September 17, 2012 by spixl
Remember Facelift in progress???
Casa Oaxaca and Galeria Quetzalli’s renovation project continues. Patching and plastering have been completed.
Primer and paint swatches have been applied. Weeks have gone by…
Choosing a color is hard! What do you think?
Color is my day-long obsession, joy and torment. —Claude Monet
Posted in Buildings, Restaurants, Travel & Tourism | Tagged building renovation, Casa Oaxaca, Claude Monet quotation, Galeria Quetzalli, Mexico, Oaxaca, paint swatches, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, workers | 2 Comments »
September 16, 2012 by spixl
As I write, it is late on September 15, and all over Mexico El Grito de Dolores, also known as El Grito de la Independencia (the Shout of Independence), is echoing from government buildings throughout the country, from the Palacio Nacional in Mexico City to Oaxaca’s Palacio de Gobierno to ayuntamientos (city halls) in small towns.
- Mexicans!
- Long live the heroes that gave us the Fatherland!
- Long live Hidalgo!
- Long live Morelos!
- Long live Josefa Ortiz de Dominguez!
- Long live Allende!
- Long live Aldama and Matamoros!
- Long live National Independence!
- Long Live Mexico! Long Live Mexico! Long Live Mexico!
Portraits of the above listed heroes of Mexico’s War of Independence from Spain hang from the Government Palace in Oaxaca, as well as from the Municipal Building facing the Plaza de la Danza.
And, this year, José María Morelos y Pavón is honored with a second massive portrait on the outer wall of the Municipal Building. Last year, it was a reproduction of Orozco’s dramatic painting of Miguel Hidalgo y Costilla.
Posted in Buildings, History, Holidays, People | Tagged El Grito, Grito de Dolores, José María Morelos y Pavón, Mexican Independence Day, Mexico, Municipal Building, Oaxaca, Plaza de la Danza | 1 Comment »
September 13, 2012 by spixl
El Grito not only heralds green, white, and red decorations, clothing, and Mexican flags. It is also the season to savor the multi-layered, delicate flavors of Chiles en Nogada and delight in its colorful, patriotic presentation. Legend has it, the dish was created in 1821 by nuns in Puebla to honor a visit by Mexican General Augustín de Iturbide, that pretty much signaled the end of the eleven-year long Mexican War of Independence.
There are probably as many recipes for Chiles en Nogada as there are chefs and abuelas, but the basics include green poblano chiles stuffed with a picadillo of meats, fruits, nuts, herbs and spices; served with a creamy white cheese and walnut sauce; and topped with a garnish of red pomegranate seeds, walnuts, and the green of chopped parsley.
This was my lunch of Chiles en Nogada today at La Popular, a delightful new restaurant in Oaxaca (Garcia Vigil 519, Centro). Yummm….
(ps) Chris just posted this video of Lina Fernandez making Chiles en Nogada. She makes it look almost doable!
Posted in Celebrations, Culture, Food, History, Holidays, Restaurants, Travel & Tourism | Tagged Chiles en Nogada, El Grito, food, La Popular, Mexican Independence, Mexican War of Independence, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, restaurants | 9 Comments »
September 13, 2012 by spixl
Revolutionaries behind bars.
Couldn’t resist just one more El Grito window display!
Posted in Celebrations, Culture, Holidays, Travel & Tourism | Tagged El Grito, Mexican Independence, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, store displays, window display | 2 Comments »
September 11, 2012 by spixl
Where else have you seen El Grito decorations?
Schools, of course! This one in Teotitlán del Valle.
And, how about newsstands? You can’t miss the green, white, and red — it’s everywhere!
Posted in Celebrations, Culture, History, Holidays, Travel & Tourism | Tagged celebrations, El Grito, Escuela Primaria Urbana, graffiti, Grito de Dolores, holidays, Mexican Independence Day, Mexico, newsstands, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, store displays, Teotitlán del Valle, window displays | Leave a Comment »
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