¡Feliz día del amor y la amistad!
Happy day of love and friendship to all my wonderful readers from the front of a plastics recycling bin!
Posted in Creativity, Culture, Holidays | Tagged Día del Amor y la Amistad, hearts, Mexico, Oaxaca, photos, popular travel destinations, recycling hearts, street art, urban art, Valentine's Day | 2 Comments »
After being in el norte for an entire year (by far the longest I’ve been away from Oaxaca since I relocated 15+ years ago), I’m back! It’s been mostly a smooth return — well, except for my refrigerator’s failed fuse, causing a freezer full of tamales, mole, and soup stocks to spoil. Thankfully, my neighbors discovered it the day before my return and emptied and cleaned the refrigerator and an electrician replaced the fuse a mere ten hours before my arrival. Since then, this past week has been spent restocking the larder, cleaning, attending to the garden, catching up with friends, and enjoying my home, my neighborhood, and the flavors of Oaxaca — including…
The murals…
The streets…
The door-to-door flower vendor…
The comida…
And, let’s not forget, the view from Casita Colibrí!
It’s SO good to be back — alas, if only for a month. However, I intend to relish every moment!
Posted in Animals, Casita Colibrí, Creativity, Culture, Food, Travel & Tourism | Tagged cats on a roof, flowers in a vase, Mexico, murals, Oaxaca, papel picado, photos, popular travel destinations, street art, tamales, urban art, wall art | 10 Comments »
Although I’m spending Christmas in the San Francisco Bay Area with family, I’m dreaming Oaxaca holiday dreams of piñatas, often seemingly floating in air. [click on images to enlarge]
Nacimientos (Nativity scenes) and neighborhood posadas, at once solemn and joyful.
And, the wild and whacky rabanos (radishes), totomoxtle (corn husk), and flor inmortal (dried flower) creations on December 23, Noche de Rábanos (Night of the Radishes).
Thus, after a year’s hiatus, I’m reviving my Nochebuena tradition and presenting to you, “Pancho Claus” by Chicano musical legend Eduardo “Lalo” Guerrero and sung by Irma Garza. The song is a delightful parody of the Clement C. Moore classic, “‘Twas the Night Before Christmas” — and it has inspired real life Tex-Mex Santas. I hope it brings a chuckle or two on this Christmas Eve.
‘Twas the night before Christmas and all through the casa
Mama she was busy preparing the masa
To make the tamales for the tamalada
And all the ingredients for the enchiladas
Papa in the front room with all the muchachas
Was dancing the mambo and doing the cha cha
My brothers and sisters were out in the hall
Listening to Elvis singing rock ‘n roll
When all of a sudden there came such a racket
I jumped out of bed and I put on my jacket
I looked out the window and in front of the house
Was my old uncle Pedro as drunk as a louse
He ran in the casa he grabbed the guitarra
He let out a yell and played “Guadalajara”
I was starting to wonder as I lay there alone
How old Santa Claus was to visit my home
With all of this noise they would scare him away
When all of a sudden I hear someone say
Hey Pablo, Chuchito Hey! Arriba! Gordito, Jose
Get up there you bums or you don’t get no hay
And then to my wondering eyes did appear
Eight cute little donkeys instead of reindeer
They pulled a carreta that was full of toys
For all of us good little girls and boys
The fat little driver waved his big sombrero
And said Merry Christmas! Feliz Año Nuevo!
That means “Happy New Year”
And then I hear him sing
I am Santa’s cousin from south of the border
My name’s Pancho Claus and I bring you your order
I hear him exclaim as he drove past the porches
“Merry Christmas to all and to all Buenas Noches”
From my home to yours, I wish you peace, good health, and Felices Fiestas (Happy Holidays)!
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Holidays, Music, Travel & Tourism | Tagged 'Twas the Night Before Christmas, “Lalo” Guerrero, Christmas decorations, Christmas Eve, creche, Eduardo “Lalo” Guerro, Irma Garza, Mexico, Nativity scene, Noche de Rábanos, Nochebuena, Oaxaca, Pancho Claus, photos, piñata, poem, popular travel destinations | 3 Comments »
If you don’t like clanging bells, fireworks bursting in air, and navigating procession-blocked streets (at all hours of the day and night), you might want to avoid being in Oaxaca in December. The month heralds seemingly round-the-clock joyous, sometimes solemn, and mostly noisy celebrations. This month, honoring the feast days of the Virgins of Juquila, Guadalupe, and Soledad elicits some of the most enthusiastic, lengthy, and loud festivities of the year.
December 8 marks Día de la Virgen de Juquila — the first of the three virgins being celebrated this month. Observances began weeks ago as pilgrims began their peregrinations to her tiny Chatino village of Santa Catarina Juquila. And, in Oaxaca city, processions began filling the streets, cohetes (rockets) began exploding, and church bells sounded announcing special misas (masses).
Next on the on the calendar is the more widely known date of December 12, honoring la Virgen de Guadalupe, aka, Queen of Mexico, Empress of America, and patron saint of México. However, the celebrating has already begun and besides fireworks, processions, and church bells chiming, professional photographers set up “Guadalupe grottos” outside Oaxaca’s Templo de Nuestra Señora de Guadalupe so, after being blessed inside the church, parents can have their little boys and girls, dressed in traditional traje (costume), photographed. Once finished, all can partake in the rows upon rows of food stalls, carnival rides, and puestos selling toys, Santa hats, Christmas lights.
Last, but not least for Oaxaqueños, is December 18, the feast day of the much loved and revered, Queen of Oaxaca, La Santísima Virgen de La Soledad (Virgin of Solitude). Festivities with special religious rites, processions, and fireworks usually begin in early December, overlapping with Juquila and Guadalupe. Soledad’s celebration culminates with hundreds of her devotees camping out in the atrium of her church, the Basílica de Nuestra Señora de la Soledad, on the night of December 17 — with musical entertainment throughout the night, afternoon cultural performances the next day, and several outdoor masses from before dawn to nightfall on the 18th. Food stalls take over the stairs leading to the Basílica and the street below (Independencia) is closed for several blocks with carnival rides and stalls selling more sweets and savories, religious tchotchkes, clothing, and much more. It’s lively, crowded, and loud!
I’m still in el norte and all is quiet. While it makes for a better night’s sleep, I’m missing the raucous and joy-filled cacophony that fills Oaxaca’s days and nights in December.
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Religion, Travel & Tourism | Tagged Día de la Virgen de Guadalupe, Día de la Virgen de Juquila, Dia de la Virgen de la Soledad, festivals and fiestas, Mexico, murals, Nuestra Señora de la Soledad, Oaxaca, photos, popular travel destinations, religious celebrations, street art, urban art, Virgen de Guadalupe, Virgen de Juquila, Virgen de La Soledad, Virgin of Guadalupe, Virgin of Juquila, Virgin of Solitude, wall art | 6 Comments »
Last January, I needed to go to the Aragal shipping facility to pick up a Christmas present — two jars of Salsa Macha made for me by K, best gal pal and former neighbor who was my personal cocinera (cook) during those dark days of Covid. The salsa made a circuitous journey from K’s kitchen in Teotitlán del Valle to my kitchen in Barrio de Jalatlaco. The route included being tucked in the back of our friend’s van while we all enjoyed a day trip to Ocotlán and San Antonino Castillo Velasco, once back in the city, being forgotten as I scrambled out of the van amidst bumper-to-bumper traffic, venturing up over the mountains to Puerto Escondido in said van, belatedly being remembered, and thus shipped by my van-owning friend back to me in Oaxaca.
And so, two weeks after it began its journey, I found myself walking south to Aragal to retrieve my errant gift. This is not a route I normally traverse and it’s definitely not in a touristy part of the city. However, being Oaxaca, there was no end of sights to surprise and delight — from the sacred of the Templo de los Siete Príncipes to the profane of the street art along the way.
The two glass jars of Salsa Macha made it intact with only a tiny bit of leakage. Whew! And, no surprise, the salsa was super delicious.
Posted in Churches, Creativity, Culture, Travel & Tourism | Tagged Iglesia de Los Siete Príncipes, Mexico, murals, Oaxaca, photos, popular travel destinations, street art, Templo y exconvento de los Siete Príncipes, urban art, wall art | 7 Comments »
It’s Halloween time up here in el norte and the occasional house features spiders poised to pounce in webs strung across bushes, witches with broomsticks guard front gates, and pumpkins decorate entries signaling trick or treaters are welcome. A few skeletons have moved into the neighborhood but none are as well dressed and accessorized as those seen last year loitering on sidewalks, hanging out on walls, and dining in the restaurants of Oaxaca during Día de Muertos (Day of the Dead).
What can I say? I’m missing these guys and gals inhabiting Oaxaca this time of year.
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Holidays, Travel & Tourism | Tagged calacas, Catrinas, Day of the Dead, Day of the Dead decor, Día de Muertos, Mexico, murals, Oaxaca, photos, popular travel destinations, skeletons, street art, urban art, wall art | 9 Comments »
The world is your home. Take care!
Never forget…
No matter where one lives, the fate of the earth is in our hands.
Posted in Creativity, Culture, Environment, Travel & Tourism | Tagged environmentalism, Mexico, Mill Valley, murals, Oaxaca, photos, recycling bins, street art, Teotitlán del Valle, urban art | Leave a Comment »
It’s been ten excruciating and heartbreaking years since the horrific events during the night of September 26 to 27 unfolded on the streets of Guerrero in the town of Iguala. The murder that night of three students, wounding of several more, and disappearance of 43 students all from Escuela Normal Rural Raúl Isidro Burgos, a teachers’ college in Ayotzinapa, Guerrero, has continued to haunt Mexico’s national conscience, much like the 1968 Tlatelolco massacre in Mexico City — a commemoration the students were enroute to attend.
As news of that unspeakable night ten years ago spread, demonstrations were organized throughout Mexico — and soon the world — calling for justice and the return of the missing 43 student teachers (normalistas). Artists, as they have done throughout history, used their talent to give visual voice to the grief, outrage, and resolve to uncover the truth. And, I began documenting what I saw on the streets of Oaxaca.
Here we are ten years later and the missing 43 are still missing, the heartbreak continues, the truth remains hidden, and justice has yet to be served. However, no one has forgotten. On this tenth anniversary, protest marches are being held, conferences have been organized, articles continue to be written, artists continue to create, families continue to mourn, and the people vow they will not be silent and the Ayotzinapa 43 will never be forgotten.
For more information in English:
- Forty-three Mexican Students Went Missing. What Really Happened to Them? – The New Yorker, March 4, 2024.
- It’s been a decade since 43 students disappeared in Mexico. Their parents still fight for answers – The Press Democrat, September 20, 2024.
- A decade later, Mexico’s Ayotzinapa victims still search for truth and justice – Reuters, September 24, 2024.
- Ayotzinapa decries repression after 10-year struggle for 43 missing students – EFE, September 23, 2024.
- Keeping the Secrets: U.S. Silence about Ayotzinapa – National Security Archive, September 26, 2023.
- Ayotzinapa – View from Casita Colibrí blog posts tagged Ayotzinapa, dated 2014 to the present.
- The Ayotzinapa 43: State Crime (video) – Five part HBO docuseries available on Max.
- Ayotzinapa, el paso de la tortuga (video) – Documentary (English subtitles) produced by Guillermo del Toro and available on Netflix.
Posted in Creativity, Culture, Education, History, Politics, Protests, Tragedy, Violence | Tagged Ayotzinapa, demonstrations, disappeared, Escuela Normal Rural Raúl Isidro Burgos, graphic arts, Guerrero, Iguala, marches, Mexico, Oaxaca, photos, stencil art, street art, student teachers, urban art, wall art | 8 Comments »
A (somewhat) belated companion to my Mitla’s mysterious underground blog post from May.
And, this latest video (in English) from the ARX Project, where they describe what they have found beneath the above Groups and their speculations.
h/t Margie Barclay
Posted in Archaeology, Creativity, Culture, History, Travel & Tourism | Tagged archaeological zone, ARX project, fretwork, geophysical scans, grecas, Lyobaa, Mexico, Mitla archeological site, Mitla grecas, Mitla: Lost Tombs of the Zapotec Kings video, Oaxaca, photos, popular travel destinations, San Pablo Villa de Mitla, video, Zapotec ceremonial plaza, Zapotec culture | 5 Comments »
On the streets of Oaxaca, you never know when you will see…
…close encounters of the mural kind.
Posted in Creativity, Culture, Travel & Tourism | Tagged Mexico, murals, Oaxaca, photos, popular travel destinations, street art, urban art, wall art | 5 Comments »
July is “mes de la Guelaguetza” in Oaxaca. Alas, I am still in el norte and missing the festivities — though not the crowds! However, you can join me, from the comfort of your home, in viewing both last Saturday’s and today’s Desfile de Delegaciones (Parade of Delegations) and the July 22 and July 29 matutina (morning) and vespertina (evening) Lunes del Cerro dance performances on CORTV’s YouTube channel. I will be sure to be watching today’s desfile and the Monday (July 29) morning transmission live, as the Grupo Danza de la Pluma Promesa 2022-2024 from Teotitlán del Valle is one of the delegations.
As many of you know, blogger buddy Chris and I have helped sponsor dancers for nine years and it has been a great honor and privilege to get to know several of the dancers and their families in Teotitlán del Valle.
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Travel & Tourism | Tagged CORTV transmission, folkloric dance, Guelaguetza, List of delegations, Live streaming, Mexico, Oaxaca, photos, popular travel destinations, Teotitlán del Valle | Leave a Comment »
No one exemplified the old adage, “Good things come in small packages” more than Leonor Lazo González. I met Leonor in February 2008 during my second trip to the Zapotec village of Teotitlán del Valle. I’d met her son, Samuel Bautista Lazo, during my first visit to Oaxaca the previous year and he was anxious and very proud to introduce me to his family.
From that very first meeting I could tell that, while diminutive in stature, Leonor had an enormous presence that radiated strength, inner peace, and joy. And, she had a smile that could light up the universe!
Once I moved to Oaxaca and began spending a lot of time in Teotitlán, I always looked forward to seeing her at her stall in the mercado, running into her during a village celebration, or stopping by the family home.
In the words of her son, she was, “a loving warrior, a great mother, teacher, artist, healer, weaver and business savvy, daughter of the abuelas of the Pleiades.”
With great sadness, I must speak of Leonor in the past tense. After a long and valiant battle, she has moved on in her journey. As Sam wrote announcing her passing, “she will be at peace wherever consciousness goes after life and that her legacy will continue and that she will live in our memories and will continue to come back to be celebrated with life every year for Na’ tugul, day of the dead.” Rest in peace and power, dear Leonor.
Posted in Culture, People | Tagged death, Leonor Lazo González, Mexico, Oaxaca, photos, Samuel Bautista Lazo, Teotitlán del Valle, weaver, Zapoteca | 8 Comments »
One of the joys of life in Oaxaca is being surrounded by artists, meeting them, and watching their creations take shape. As 2023 was about to come to a close, friends and I spent the day visiting some of our favorite villages to the south of the city. First stop was breakfast in the Ocotlán de Morelos mercado at the stall of Beatriz Vázquez Gómez. Beatriz is famous not only for looking and dressing like Frida Kahlo, but also for serving delicious traditional Oaxacan food. Our next stop was San Antonino Castillo Velasco for their holiday food and artesanía feria where we strolled the aisles of embroidered blouses and dresses, artesanía, and (of course) mezcal. Working up an appetite (What, eating again?) we shared San Antonino’s famous and filling, empanadas de amarillo.
Our last stop of the day was in San Martín Tilcajete. It was at the workshop of Jacobo and María Ángeles where we stumbled on giant fantastical creatures that were being intricately painted in preparation for their journey to Denver, Colorado to be featured in an exhibition at the Denver Botanic Garden entitled, Spirit Guides: Fantastical Creatures.
In the words of Jacobo and María, “These monumental pieces are distinguished by a meticulous carving process and a painting technique that highlights a vibrant palette of colors. This technique not only stands out for its visual beauty, but is also linked to the research and preservation of Zapotec symbology, granting a profound meaning to this artistic and artisanal production.”
“Spirit Guides is an unforgettable outdoor experience reminding us of the profound connections that bind us to the inhabitants of the natural (and cosmological) world.”
So, should you find yourself in the Denver area before the exhibition’s last day on September 8, 2024, let your spirit guide you to the Denver Botanic Gardens.
Posted in Creativity, Culture, Exhibitions, Travel & Tourism | Tagged alebrije, Denver Botanic Garden, Mexico, Oaxaca, photos, popular travel destinations, San Martín Tilcajete, Spirit Guides: Fantastical Creatures, Taller Jacobo y María Ángeles, workshops | 6 Comments »
To all the fathers (biological and adoptive), stepfathers, grandfathers, godfathers, and father figures everywhere, I wish you Happy Father’s Day as you continue sharing traditions…
teaching skills…
and, most of all, caring.
May you fulfill your most valuable role with great love, kindness, and respect.
Posted in Celebrations, Children, Creativity, Culture, Holidays, Travel & Tourism | Tagged brides, children, Día del Padre, face painting, father of the bride, Father's Day, fathers and children, horses, Mexico, Oaxaca, photos, popular travel destinations | Leave a Comment »
I’m still in el norte. The good news is I’m missing the multiple months of unrelenting 90º+ F (ugh!) weather Oaxaca has been experiencing. The bad news is my taste buds have been missing the flavors of Oaxaca. However, last Sunday, while visiting my Oaxaca snowbird neighbors at their home on Long Island, New York, we ventured into the Bushwick neighborhood of Brooklyn for brunch at Sobre Masa.
The restaurant is the creation of young couple, Diana and Zack Wangeman — both born and raised in Oaxaca and offspring of treasured friends of mine. Zack is a classically trained chef and Diana, a Mexican doctor who grew up in the kitchen of Tierra Antigua, the restaurant in Teotitlán del Valle of her traditional cocinera mother, Carina Santiago. My craving for the complex flavors and real nixtamalized tortillas I have come to know and love, was more than satisfied! (Please forgive the images below, as I was too busy diving into each dish and kept forgetting to take photos.)
If you find yourself in and around New York City, get thee to Brooklyn, enjoy the sophisticated flavors of traditional southern Mexico cuisine, and begin to understand why Oaxaca has become one of the foodie capitals of the world. In addition, like Oaxaca, murals decorate neighborhood walls!
Posted in Creativity, Culture, Food, Restaurants, Travel & Tourism | Tagged Brooklyn, Diana Montaño Santiago, Mexican restaurants, murals, Oaxaca cuisine, photos, popular travel destinations, Sobre Masa, street art, Zack Wangeman | 2 Comments »
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