In front of Oaxaca’s Cathedral, the Palm weavers from the Mixteca have been practicing their craft with awesome dexterity, creativity, and skill.
All is ready for Domingo de Ramos (Palm Sunday).
Archive for the ‘Holidays’ Category
Palms for Palm Sunday
Posted in Celebrations, Churches, Creativity, Culture, Holidays, Travel & Tourism, tagged Catedral de Oaxaca, Cathedral of Oaxaca, Domingo de Ramos, Mexico, Mixteca palm weavers, Oaxaca, Palm Sunday, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, Semana Santa on March 24, 2013| 10 Comments »
The good samaritans of Oaxaca
Posted in Beverages, Celebrations, Churches, Culture, Food, Holidays, Religion, Travel & Tourism, tagged Barrio de Jalatlaco, Chilacayota, Día de la Samaritana, Día de las Aguas, Good Samaritan day, Horchata, Lent, Mexico, nieves, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations on March 19, 2013| Leave a Comment »
You know Semana Santa is on the horizon when tables, large and small, elaborately or minimally decorated, miraculously appear in doorways, street corners, and the Alcalá. The common denominator is smiling people offering Agua de Jamaica, Horchata, Chilacayota, and even nieves to all passers-by. Día de la Samaritana (Good Samaritan Day) is an only-in-Oaxaca, 4th Friday of Lent, event.
This year, besides experiencing the joyous mob scene on the Alcalá and the small sidewalk stands on side streets, on a tip from a friend, I made the “taking your life in your hands” crossing of Calzado de la República to the picturesque cobblestoned neighborhood of Jalatlaco. Tables of aguas and nieves lined the plaza in front of the Templo de San Matías Jalatlaco and pastor Víctor Hernández was recounting the Biblical story, found in the Book of John, of the woman at the well who offered water to Jesus — the inspiration for Día de la Samaritana. He concluded the story and blessing with the word “¡ataque!” and the masses did, indeed, attack the tables! By the way, pastor Hernández gets around — he was the same priest who performs the yearly blessing of the animals across town at the Templo de Nuestra Señora de la Merced.
It was a hot day and having already had two aguas, as I made my way over to Jalatlaco, I was jonesing for a nieve but, alas, by the time I figured out which table was serving it, the line was too long. So, giving up on the nieve, I accepted another agua and headed towards home. However, in the true spirit of the day, as I was melting in the heat, an older gentleman standing on the sidewalk asked if I would like a nieve and gestured toward a woman standing in the doorway behind a small table. “Sí” I replied and a styrofoam coffee cup filled with Leche Quemada (my favorite) was thrust into my hand. Another sublime day in Oaxaca…
Holding up half the sky
Posted in Buildings, Creativity, Culture, Holidays, Travel & Tourism, tagged Comisión Nacional para el Desarrollo de los Pueblos Indígenas, Día Internacional de la Mujer, International Women's Day, Mexico, murals, National Commission for the Development of Indigenous Peoples, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, public art, street art, urban art on March 8, 2013| 1 Comment »
Today is International Women’s Day…
Mural on the wall outside the Comisión Nacional para el Desarrollo de los Pueblos Indígenas, Delegación Oaxaca, on Heroico Colegio Militar in Col. Reforma.
¡Feliz el Día Internacional de la Mujer!
Valentine’s Day in Oaxaca
Posted in Celebrations, Culture, Holidays, Travel & Tourism, tagged balloons, candy, Día del Amor y la Amistad, flowers, holidays, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, tulips, Valentine's Day on February 14, 2013| 3 Comments »
Got your hearts? Yes!
Got your flowers? Yes!
Got your candy? Yes!
¡Feliz Día del Amor y la Amistad! (Happy day of love and friendship!)
(ps) To expand your linguistic skills, learn Frases de amor y amistad en 7 lenguas indígenas mexicanas — including Mixe, Mixteco, and Zapoteco.
Oaxaca kids, Gangnam style
Posted in Celebrations, Culture, Holidays, Music, Parks & Plazas, Travel & Tourism, tagged Día de Reyes, El Día De Los Reyes Magos, entertainment, festivals, Gangnam style, luchadores, Mexico, Oaxaca, Plaza de la Danza, popular travel destinations, Rosca de Reyes, Three Kings Day, video on January 7, 2013| 3 Comments »
Early Saturday evening, the Plaza de la Danza played host to the Festival Día de Reyes, an event to delight and distribute a kilometer of donated toys to disadvantaged children. The Kings had kids and their parents seeing double.
Lines began forming two hours in advance to be up-front and close to the stage, all the better to be chosen to participate in the games and entertainment that was also part of the festivities.
To the delight of the crowd, three luchadores took the stage to recruit contestants for a mystery contest.
The music came up and Oaxaca’s kids began going, “Gangnam Style” — albeit, some more enthusiastically than others — and all got prizes.
Psy may have sung and danced his last “Gangnam Style” on New Year’s Rockin’ Eve, however, it remains alive and well in Oaxaca!
According to this morning’s Noticias, 6,500 toys (donated by citizens, city government entities, foundations, and businesses) were given to each child present and all received a piece of rosca de Reyes.
As they say, a good time was had by all!
Kings and kids
Posted in Celebrations, Culture, Food, Holidays, Parks & Plazas, Religion, Travel & Tourism, tagged carnival rides, Día de Reyes, Epiphany, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, Rosca de Reyes, Three Kings Day on January 6, 2013| 1 Comment »
Today, Mexico is celebrating Día de Reyes (aka, Three Kings Day and Epiphany). It is this morning, not Christmas, that children wake up to find gifts brought during the night not by Santa Claus, but by the Magi.
Melchor, Gaspar, and Baltazar have had plenty of time and places to shop. Several days before December 25, in the aisles of my local supermarket, toys had already replaced Christmas decorations. Llano Park was turned into Oaxaca’s version of a pop-up Toys R Us. Puestos (stalls) filled the park, selling everything from dolls to sports equipment, balloons to books, and even something for the family dog. There were (dicey looking) carnival rides and food stalls offering the usual bounty of street food and the traditional Rosca de Reyes.
And, that’s not all! Early last night, there was a giant festival in the Plaza de la Danza, to entertain and distribute a kilometer of donated toys to disadvantaged children. Stay tuned…
¡Próspero año!
Posted in Celebrations, Culture, Holidays, People, Travel & Tourism, tagged Bless You by John Lennon, Mexico, New Year's Eve, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, portraits on December 31, 2012| 19 Comments »
To the wonderful readers of my blog and to the beautiful people of Oaxaca, I wish you good health, safety, peace, and a 2013 that is filled with joy.
Bless you wherever you are
Windswept child on a shooting star
Restless Spirits depart
Still we’re deep in each other’s hearts
~ Bless You by John Lennon ~
Noche buena wishes
Posted in Celebrations, Culture, Holidays, Music, Parks & Plazas, Religion, Travel & Tourism, tagged 'Twas the Night Before Christmas, “Lalo” Guerrero, Christmas, Eduardo Guerrero, Mexico, Navidad, Night of the Radishes, Noche de Rabanos, Oaxaca, Pancho Claus, poem on December 24, 2012| 3 Comments »
The rabanos, danzantes, and I wish a happy holidays to all…
Photos from Noche de Rabanos. And, my rapidly becoming a Christmas Eve blog tradition…
Pancho Claus
‘Twas the night before Christmas and all through la casa
Not a creature was stirring, Caramba! ¿Que pasa?
Los ninos were all tucked away in their camas,
Some in vestidos and some in pajamas.
While Mama worked late in her little cocina,
El viejo was down at the corner cantina.
The stockings were hanging con mucho cuidado,
In hopes that St. Nicholas would feel obligado
To bring all the children, both buenos y malos,
A Nice batch of dulces and other regalos.
Outside in the yard, there arouse such a grito,
That I jumped to my feet, like a frightened cabrito.
I went to the window and looked out afuera,
And who in the world, do you think que era?
Saint Nick in a sleigh and a big red sombrero
Came dashing along like a crazy bombero!
And pulling his sleigh instead of venados,
Were eight little burros approaching volados.
I watched as they came, and this little hombre
Was shouting and whistling and calling by nombre.
¡Ay, Pancho! ¡Ay, Pepe! ¡Ay, Cuca! ¡Ay, Beto!
¡Ay, Chato! ¡¡Ay, Chopo! ¡Maruca and ¡Nieto!
Then standing erect with his hand on his pecho
He flew to the top of our very own techo.
With his round little belly like a bowl of jalea,
He struggled to squeeze down our old chimenea.
Then huffing and puffing, at last in our sala,
With soot smeared all over his red suit de gala.
He filled the stockings with lovely regalos,
For none of the children had been very malos.
Then chuckling aloud and seeming contento,
He turned like a flash and was gone like the viento.
And I heard him exclaim and this is VERDAD,
Merry Christmas to all, And to All ¡Feliz Navidad!
Ernie Villarreal’s version of the song, Pancho Claus, by Chicano music legend, Eduardo “Lalo” Guerrero.
Nativity not trees
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Holidays, Parks & Plazas, Religion, Travel & Tourism, tagged Christmas, creche, Mexico, Nacimiento de navidad, Nativity scenes, Navidad, Oaxaca, photographs, photos on December 22, 2012| 6 Comments »
Although Christmas trees are making inroads, in Oaxaca it is the nacimiento de navidad (nativity scene) that is the omnipresent symbol of Christmas. Unique and personal, they are seen everywhere; the zócalo, homes, hotel lobbies, store windows, and every kind of business you can think of!
And, yes, this “spiritual but not religious” gringa couldn’t resist a miniature woven straw one of her own. It’s a work of art!
Soledad pulling an all-nighter
Posted in Celebrations, Churches, Culture, Food, Holidays, Parks & Plazas, Religion, Travel & Tourism, tagged Basilica de la Soledad, brooms, escobas de otate, food, Mexico, Nuestra Señora de la Soledad, Oaxaca, Patrona de los Oaxaqueños, photographs, photos, Plaza de la Danza, popular travel destinations, Queen of Oaxaca, twig brooms, Virgen de La Soledad, Virgin of Solitude on December 20, 2012| 5 Comments »
As yesterday’s post reported, fireworks late Monday night heralded the feast day of La Virgen de la Soledad, the patron saint of Oaxaca. 
However, that was far from the end of the nocturnal tale. At the stroke of midnight, only an hour after the snaps, crackles, and pops had ended, and when I had finally drifted off to sleep, the bells of the Basilica began a frenzied pealing. They were immediately joined by repeated rocket explosions, and the unmistakable sounds of a tuna band; at 2 AM bells, rockets, and mariachis; at 4 AM more bells, rockets, music, AND a procession winding its way through the streets of the city; its sounds ebbing and flowing for almost two hours.
At 6 AM, I gave up attempting sleep, threw on jeans, shoes, and a sweatshirt (didn’t even bother to wash my face or brush my teeth — don’t tell anybody), grabbed my camera, and headed over to the Basilica. What a sight!!!
The Plaza de la Danza was covered with food stalls offering barbacoa, molotes, empanadas, tacos, buñuelas, hot chocolate, breads, and pastries — the best of Oaxaca street food. And, they were all open!
On the Basilica’s plaza, the Banda Auténticos (from San Andrés Huayapam) was playing…
Dancers were dancing…
People were just waking up…
Vendors were selling roses and bouquets of herbs…
And, ubiquitous twig brooms (escobas de otate) waited to sweep-up the detritus from Soledad and friends pulling an all-nighter.
After a breakfast of barbacoa (chivo) and hot chocolate, I walked back home. Sleep deprived or not, it was a great morning!
Hark! the herald fireworks explode
Posted in Celebrations, Churches, Culture, Holidays, Religion, Travel & Tourism, tagged Basilica de la Soledad, fireworks, fuegos artificiales, Mexico, Nuestra Señora de la Soledad, Oaxaca, Patrona de los Oaxaqueños, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, Queen of Oaxaca, Virgen de La Soledad, Virgin of Solitude on December 18, 2012| 8 Comments »
Today, Oaxaca’s patron saint, Nuestra Señora de la Soledad, is having her day. Well, that’s not quite accurate, as she has been enjoying ten days of celebrations. However, December 18 is THE Día de la Festividad. So, no surprise, last night around 10:30, from the plaza of the Basílica de la Soledad, the booms and bangs of fireworks and crackles and hisses of a castillo, sounded to herald the upcoming day.
Only a block (as the crow flies) from the action, how lucky am I to have a ringside seat??!!!
Calenda of clowns; parade of payasos
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Holidays, Parks & Plazas, Travel & Tourism, tagged clowns payasos, comedy, Día Internacional del Payaso, entertainment, International Day of the Clown, Mexico, Oaxaca, Plaza de la Danza, popular travel destinations on December 11, 2012| 6 Comments »
Where are the clowns?
Quick, send in the clowns.
Don’t bother, they’re here.*
Plaza de la Danza, Oaxaca, December 10 — Día Internacional del Payaso (International Day of the Clown). Gracias, Universidad José Vasconcelos.
If, like me, you suffer from coulrophobia (fear of clowns), Oaxaca is a great place for a little immersion therapy. Clowns are seen everywhere and everyday; waiting for the bus, walking their kids to school, as well as performing in parks and plazas. Not so scary anymore!
* Send in the Clowns by Stephen Sondheim
Lo-fi, Oaxaca style
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Holidays, Music, Parks & Plazas, Travel & Tourism, tagged festivals, Low-Fi, Mexico, music, Oaxaca, Plaza del Carmen Alto, popular travel destinations, Sexto Low-Fi 2012, Virgen de Juquila on December 9, 2012| 1 Comment »
Riotous clanging from Soledad’s bell towers at 4:45 AM yesterday rudely interrupted a peaceful sleep. Explosions of cohetes and other church bells soon joined the morning’s 2-hour long Virgen de Juquila soundtrack. Chimes, rockets, loudspeakers announcing the presence of the water and gas vendors, fried plantain wagon steam-whistles, horns honking, bus gears grinding, and booming base emanating from open car windows; it’s all part of the cacophony one comes to know and love when living in Mexico.
And, then there is the music… Looking for signs of Juquila yesterday (with all that noise, I figured there must be something going on), I stumbled upon the Sexto Festival Low-Fi 2012. (Fyi: sexto = 6th, in case you were wondering.)
There were vendors…
This definitely didn’t have anything to do with virgins!
This was a music festival that almost didn’t happen. According to event promoter, Thorvalo Pazos Hoga, they were initially denied a permit, “on the grounds of religious and traditional festivals that are celebrated in the month of December in the city.” A silly argument, was his response.
I arrived in the early afternoon and fanaticos (love that word for fans!) were just beginning to gather at the Plaza del Carmen Alto. Ska, hip hop, heavy metal, rock, electronic music, and more would be adding to Oaxaca’s soundtrack until 11 PM.
Yes, we have no marimbas; the music was not your grandparents’ sones and jarabes. The bands had names like: K-OS Party, Cayune, Pichancha, Rekto de Cerdo, Dr. Jekill y Mr. Hyde, Herpes, Coito Violento, Forever, and Survival. Probably not even your parents’ music!
Oaxacan graphic artists designed the stage set. Love how they re-imagined the traditional Navidad piñata.
A tree grows in Oaxaca
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Holidays, Religion, Travel & Tourism, tagged Christmas, Christmas decorations, Christmas trees, Mexico, Navidad, Oaxaca, Virgen de Juquila on December 7, 2012| 7 Comments »
For the first time since I began nesting in my cozy little rooftop casita, I’m not heading north for Christmas. I admit to having decidedly mixed feelings; my family and most of my closest friends are up in El Norte and I’m already missing them and the traditions we have created. However, this year I get to share the holidays with new friends, create new traditions, and experience festivities heretofore unimagined — Noche de Rabanos (Night of the Radishes)? I can’t wait!
In the meantime, to bring a little of the familiar into the mix, I bought a Christmas tree. Not a real one (sad face) and not one of those seen below that my local supermarket has had for sale for several weeks. Mine is decidedly smaller, measuring exactly two feet, and…
too small to hang my favorite Mexican ornaments on its un-scented, wiry but green(!) boughs. These colorful and wonderfully bouncy decorations will be purchased and a place for them in and around Casita Colibrí will be found.
Trimming my tree will present some challenges. No cartons of ornaments, lovingly collected and stored by four generations of the family, to bring down from the attic. And, as I’ve said, the tree is tiny. I’m thinking… digging into my earring collection might be a good place to start.
However, these earrings will have to wait to adorn the tree until after I wear them tomorrow. December 8 is the celebration of the Virgen de Juquila — the first of three Vírgenes honored by Oaxaqueños in December. There will be parades. There will be fireworks. There will be wildly clanging church bells. And, there will be an abundance of magic this month, of this I have no doubt!
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View From Casita Colibrí 