At the crossroads.
Morning walk in Teotitlán del Valle.
Posted in Animals, Culture, Protests, Religion, Travel & Tourism, tagged altars, Oaxaca Textile Museum, photos, popular travel destinations, street scenes, Teotitlán del Valle on August 19, 2019| 4 Comments »
Posted in Animals, Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Food, Travel & Tourism, tagged baskets, canastas, convite, Danza de la Pluma, danzantes, Fiesta de la Preciosa Sangre de Cristo, fireworks, Grupo de Promesa de la Danza de la Pluma 2019-2021, livestock, Mexico, Oaxaca, photos, popular travel destinations, Saint Peter, Taekwondo, Teotitlán del Valle, Tierra Antigua, Tlacolula de Matamoros on July 15, 2019| 2 Comments »
I returned to Teotitlán del Valle late Friday afternoon to view the convite of of unmarried women of the village and Grupo de la Danza de la Pluma 2019-2021 danzantes (dancers) process through town — an invitation to further festivities honoring La Preciosa Sangre de Nuestro Señor Jesucristo. Though that wasn’t the only activity on my agenda; I would be spending the weekend with my amiga K, who was house-sitting for another amiga N. It would be a weekend in the countryside for this city gal!
I arrived late afternoon on Friday…

Canastas (baskets) lined up in front awaiting the procession under the gaze of the sacred mountain, El Picacho.

The convite begins — unmarried women of Teotitlán del Valle carrying the aforementioned canastas (baskets).

After the convite, an early evening encounter with a burro as mi amiga K and I walked to Restaurante y Galería Tierra Antigua .
Saturday…

Breakfast gathering of cocineras (cooks) and friends in the cocina de humo at Restaurante y Galería Tierra Antigua.

Following the Danza de la Pluma, late night watching the toritos, castillo, and fireworks in front of the church.
Sunday…

Off to market day in Tlacolula de Matamoros. The upside down St. Peter encountered in the Señor de Tlacolula chapel.

Returning to Teotitlán del Valle, still life in front of the sacred mountain, El Picacho, seen while walking back to the church in the afternoon.

Final Danza de la Pluma performance in the church atrium at the 2019 Fiesta de la Preciosa Sangre de Cristo.
It was a lively, delicious, and exhausting weekend. Did I mention, I walked an average of 4.5 miles per day? Wouldn’t have missed it for the world! Muchisimas gracias to all who made it an unforgettable weekend!
Posted in Agriculture, Animals, Beverages, Creativity, Culture, Flora, Science & Nature, Travel & Tourism, tagged agave, bats, flowers, hummingbirds, Lapiztola, mague, Mal de Amor palenque, Mexico, murals, Oaxaca, photos, popular travel destinations, quiote, Santiago Matatlán, wall art on February 24, 2019| 5 Comments »
Let us all raise a glass to the hummingbirds and bats of Oaxaca.
Without the work they do pollinating the flowers on the quiotes (stalks) that shoot up from the agave,
there would be no maguey piñas to harvest and cook…
and no mezcal to drink!
*Mural by Lapiztola on the side of the Palenque Mal de Amor (makers of Ilegal mezcal) 2+ miles north of Santiago Matatlán, Oaxaca. Check out their other mural at the palenque HERE.
Posted in Animals, Celebrations, Culture, Holidays, Travel & Tourism, tagged El Día de Acción de Gracias, guajolote, Guelaguetza, Mexico, Oaxaca, photos, San Antonino Castillo Velasco, Thanksgiving, turkey on November 22, 2018| 2 Comments »
Ya got your herbs, ya got your spices, ya got your smoker — smoked turkey, Oaxaca style!
In addition to my fabulous family, friends, blog readers, and indigenous peoples who survived genocide, colonization, and other inconvenient turkey day truths, I’m also feeling grateful for guajolotes. ¡Feliz Día de Acción de Gracias!
Posted in Animals, Travel & Tourism, Weather, tagged Calle Macedonio Alcalá, dogs, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, rain, rain storms, street scenes, street vendors on June 13, 2018| 7 Comments »
Cocijo (Zapotec god of rain, thunder, and lightning) has finally awoken!
Walking home in Oaxaca in the rain.
Posted in Animals, Casita Colibrí, Gardens, Science & Nature, Travel & Tourism, tagged Araneidae, Argiope, Casita Colibrí, garden, Mexico, nature, Oaxaca, orb weaver spiders, photographs, photos, spider webs, stabilimentum on May 31, 2018| 2 Comments »
X currently marks the spot in OaXaca — be it for HOT weather, blockades, or orb weaving spiders. Regarding the latter, another, in a long line of Argiopes, has chosen to take up residence on my terrace.
Fun fact: The purpose of the white zigzag of silk, known as a stabilimentum, is disputed. It reflects UV light and may act as camouflage, attract insect prey, or prevent larger creatures from accidentally destroying the web. Whatever the function, this gal’s (yes, it is a female) is one of the best I’ve seen!
Posted in Animals, Casita Colibrí, Gardens, tagged birds, Bullock's Oriole, Casita Colibrí, fountains, garden, Oaxaca, photographs, photos on March 14, 2018| 7 Comments »
This morning’s ecumenical gathering of the birds at the fountain — seen through my (dirty) kitchen window.
I think the orange one is a Bullock’s Oriole — the first I’ve seen on my rooftop garden.
Posted in Animals, Culture, Holidays, Travel & Tourism, tagged Chinese New Year, dogs, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, roof dogs, San Martín Tilcajete, Virgen de Guadalupe, Year of the Dog on February 16, 2018| 2 Comments »
The roof dogs of San Martín Tilcajete wish you luck in the Year of the Dog. (And, the Virgen de Guadalupe is there to help, too.)
Happy Chinese New Year!
Posted in Animals, Culture, Flora, Travel & Tourism, Weather, tagged anafre, bougainvillea, brazier, bugambilia, bus stop, flowers, goats, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, razor wire on January 16, 2018| 4 Comments »
As I write, I should be winging my way from Houston to San Francisco. But, alas, I am not. An ice storm in Houston has postponed my trip until tomorrow.
Luckily, United sent me an email on Monday advising that “travel disruptions” were possible in Houston on Tuesday and offering me the option of rescheduling my flights — without fees. After checking several weather websites, I opted to make the change.
And it was a good thing I did, as this morning’s Oaxaca to Houston flight was canceled. So another day spent where sights like these are the norm, brighten my day, and warm my heart — even when a cold front has us all donning our wool socks and sweaters.
Sigh… I don’t think I’ll be seeing scenes like this on the streets of San Francisco. But, on the upside, I will see family, friends, and the Pacific Ocean!
Posted in Animals, Casita Colibrí, Gardens, tagged bird bath, birds, fountains, garden, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, terrace on January 13, 2018| 2 Comments »
This morning’s entertainment on the terrace…
Fun at the fountain is for the birds.
Posted in Animals, Casita Colibrí, Gardens, Science & Nature, Travel & Tourism, tagged birds, hummingbirds, Mexico, nests, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations on December 10, 2017| 3 Comments »
There may be a population explosion of Casita Colibrí’s namesake…

Mama waiting until the coast is clear — in front of a Guaje tree reflection on my neighbor’s window.

She comes, she sits briefly to test its strength and expansion potential, then is off again in search of more materials.
Next up, she and we await the show male colibríes will put on — hoping to strike her fancy.
The librarian in me can’t help but offer a few references:
Posted in Animals, Casita Colibrí, Food, Restaurants, Science & Nature, Travel & Tourism, tagged Argiope, Carniceria Sonora, chile en nogada, comida, Las Quince Letras, lunch, Mexico, Oaxaca, orb weaver spiders, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, tacos on October 12, 2017| 6 Comments »
Lunch coming down out of the mountains in Colorado…

Tacos at Carniceria Sonora in Clifton, CO
Back in Oaxaca in time for a comida of September’s traditional dish…

Chiles en Nogada at Las Quince Letras Restaurante in Oaxaca de Juárez
And, not to be left out, Argiope showing off her freshly caught brunch…
Gals, be they human or arachnid, have got to eat!
Posted in Animals, Casita Colibrí, Science & Nature, tagged Araneidae, Argiope, Casita Colibrí, garden, Mexico, nature, Neoscona oaxacensis, Oaxaca, orb weaver spiders, photographs, photos, spider webs on October 5, 2017| 6 Comments »
If you suffer from arachnophobia, you might want to click away from this post.
You were warned, so I will continue… Two spiders, a Neoscona oaxacensis and an Argiope, have taken up residence on my terrace. This isn’t the first time I have played hostess to these two kinds of orb weaver spiders.
My latest guests arrived a week ago and have been settling in ever since. Their webs are strung across neighboring plants, though the Argiope’s also extends across a walkway onto the deck. Unfortunately, a few days ago, I inadvertently walked through it but, undeterred, she rewove it in the same place. So I have blocked the route with an extremely spiky cactus, to prevent further human destruction.
Aren’t my new visitors beautiful? By the way, they eat insects and are harmless to humans, so nothing to be afraid of!
Posted in Animals, Casita Colibrí, Flora, Gardens, tagged birds, cactus, flowers, gardens, hibiscus, lizards, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos on June 4, 2017| 4 Comments »
… from my rooftop garden in the city.
Posted in Animals, Casita Colibrí, Culture, Food, Travel & Tourism, Weather, tagged culinary traditions, Florentine Codex, food, insects, Mexico chicatanas, mole de chicatanas, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, rainy season, tzicatana on June 2, 2017| 4 Comments »
Along with much-needed rain and sparkling green cantera, tropical storm Beatriz also brought the one-day-a-year appearance of chicatanas (aka, tzicatana, tzicatl).
What, you might ask are chicatanas? They are giant flying ants that emerge with the first rains of the season — and by giant, I mean about 4 cm from the head to the tip of the wings for the females. (As in much of the insect world, males are smaller.) Known by the Nahuatl long before the arrival of the Spanish, they were mentioned in the 16th-century Florentine Codex which talked about the tzicatana living below ground and cultivating fungus to eat.
By this morning, the rain had stopped and when I returned from an early errand, I found chicatanas — queens (wings) and soldiers (wingless with vicious front pincers) — crawling around on my terrace and balcony. There were probably many more earlier, but I had been in a hurry and hadn’t noticed. By 10:30 AM they were gone.
Oh, and have I mentioned that they are a delicacy and a great source of protein? I’ve had chicatana salsa and chicatana mole several times. Below is Mole de Chicatanas I sampled during the Mole Festival in 2014. It’s from the Sierra Sur region of Oaxaca and made with chicatanas, pork ribs or loin, chile costeño, peanuts, and much more. It was yummy (and I was a picky eater as a child!), so I had it again at last year’s festival.
If you won’t take my word, check out this Bizarre Foods episode set in Oaxaca. (Chicatanas start at 1 min. 40 sec.) By the way, these are the dreaded leaf-cutter ants. However, it is the much smaller workers who can strip a tree overnight and are the bane of gardeners here. At least their queens and soldiers are good for something!
Post script: On a somber note, tropical storm Beatriz also brought flooding, mudslides, more downed trees, collapsed roads, and a current death toll of three.