Sunday afternoon at Casa Colonial in Oaxaca: Sun filtering through the trees of a lush tropical garden, the smell of hamburgers and hotdogs grilling on a barbecue, a friendly bartender, and a great jazz combo. What more could anyone want?
Thank you to the Casa’s owner Jane Robison and manager Amado Bolaños. It was a lovely way to spend a Sunday.
From the outdoor kitchens of Fidel Cruz and María Luisa Mendoza of Casa Cruz and Bulmaro Perez Mendoza, a three-day feast came forth to celebrate the mayordomía (stewardship) of La Virgen de Guadalupe in Teotitlán del Valle.
The roles are set in the stones of the metates…
But, it’s the hands of generations of women…
who continue to shape traditions and nourish bodies and souls.
With apron strings tied, the women of Teotitlán del Valle, from celebrated cocinera Abigail Mendoza…
Aim high in life and, always seek for peace! Making it possible to share with others; As the sun always rises from the east! ! Resting down west to respect the muse of nature. In the light of Life, Lights in the sight of the truth! ! Living with positive morals, Onward with the joy of life.
After being “under the weather” and cooped up in my apartment with doors and windows shut for the past four days — both due to clouds of demolition dust coming from next door — I gathered what little energy I could, and ventured out to pay my Telmex (phone company) bill. My brain must not have been functioning on all cylinders, as I took the steep way back home.
What was I thinking??? After only a few blocks, I had to stop in front of this door to catch my breath. It looks like I feel!
If it’s the end of January into the beginning of February, it must be time for the Feria del Carrizo in San Juan Guelavía. About twenty minutes east of the city, this village was known for their beautiful and functional baskets hand-woven from carrizo (Arundo donax, Spanish cane, Giant cane, Wild Cane, and Colorado River weed), a tall perennial cane that grows along river banks.
These baskets have traditionally been used as carriers and storage bins since before the Spanish set foot on the soil that became Mexico. However, their popularity and demand took a nosedive, along with the economy of San Juan Guelavía, upon the arrival of plastic baskets. The answer, in 2012, was to promote these artisans, their wares, and their creativity with a fair. Several days preceding Sunday’s inauguration of the 6th annual fair and sale, there were misas (masses), parades, and fireworks.
As with all festivals and fairs in Oaxaca, there are folkloric dance performances.
And, artfully positioned decorations adorning walls and gates and hanging from the ceiling.
There is barbacoa and tortillas hot off the comal.
And, impossibly adorable children carrying on traditions.
The fair was in full swing when we arrived in late morning (note to self, get there earlier next year) with carrizo woven baskets, birdcages, bottles, and baby cradles piled high.So many choices… Is it too early to begin Christmas shopping?I kept my eye out for Teresa, who made beautiful lampshades for me two years ago. However, it wasn’t easy as there were so many people coming and going and crowded around all of the vendor tables.
It took a while but, on the second pass around, I finally found her and her delightful family. There was much handshaking, cheek kissing, and catching up.And, more than a little laughter about her fowl friend, who was keeping watch under the table.
Another wonderful, warm, and welcoming day in one of the villages in the valley of Oaxaca. The fair continues this week with a 4-day jaripeo (rodeo) and closes on February 5, so you still have time! Never fear, if you miss it, these carrizo treasures can often be found at the weekly Sunday market in Tlacolula de Matamoros.
A Taekwondo school brought the Year of the Fire Rooster to the zócalo late this afternoon, replete with a Taiko Drum and Dragon and Lion dance.
According to Huffington Post Canada, people born under this sign “are considered trustworthy and responsible, with a strong sense of timekeeping.” However, “they can be ‘overly blunt'” and, beware, they are not very compatible with people born in the Year of the Rat. ¡Feliz Año del Gallo!
It has been six days since the voices of women, and those who love and respect them, rose as one throughout the world. Email, Facebook postings, Instagram photos, YouTube videos, memes, and tweets have been circulating the globe, resistance is rising, and unity is being forged.
Here in Oaxaca, we have been overwhelmed by the messages of support for our Women’s March Oaxaca, tee shirt sales (175-200), inquiries of “what next?” and we have been blown away by the final police and media count, that puts the total between 2000 and 3000. Amazing!!! We have added press reports about our march to the website, along with photos and video of it.
Mexicans are incensed and hoping their president Peña Nieto’s newly-found backbone continues to hold. And, a grassroots effort among Mexicanos has been launched calling for boycotts of U.S. companies in fury at Donald Trump. I think now is a good time for El Demagogo (The Demagogue) by Lila Downs (lyrics in English below).
At the edge of the world Where the factories are There’s a burning of hatred That’s crossing the lines
There’s a blue eyed devil man Thinks he’s king of the world He’s a bully, a salesman Selling fear and hate
Who do you think you are? He plays us with his hate Turns man against man But it’s really not a game
And I pray to the ancestors’ love Do not be fooled by this man’s foolish talk The serpent woke again In different times and places There’s a burning cross Leading the mob People in chains He’s a Quak circus act creeping from the past He’s the symbol of the monster we no longer want to be (what we used to be…) The earth trembles with these names Mussolini, Adolph Hitler, Pinochet
No respect for woman, no respect for race No respect for anything that lives, the human race But he cannot buy our soul
(CORO:)
NO A ESE MURO Voy cortando el odio Voy sembrando amor
NO A ESE MURO De la explotación Pero es mi casa
NO A ESE MURO La luz de la mañana El lugar de mis ancestros Las flores del desierto
NO A ESE MURO Gonna show that my love Is much stronger than hate I’m gonna call to the four winds I’m gonna change my fate I’m gonna rise up singing I’m gonna stand for this place It’s a long time, Mi Gente
There’s no turning back There’s no turning back There’s no turning back
Blogger buddy Chris and I were filled with wonder and gratitude to be invited to the home of Fidel Cruz and María Luisa Mendoza, primero (first) mayordomías (sponsors/stewards), for a 3-day fiesta honoring the Virgen de Guadalupe. There were orchestrated rituals of seating, music, and dance; a bounty of some of the best cocina Zapoteca food one could ever hope to eat; hundreds of people from small children to great grandparents; and the most amazing warm, welcoming, and communal spirit.
El atole de espuma
Higadito waiting to be served
Poultry hanging around, awaiting their turn
Canastas (baskets) used to bring food, dishes, and serving pieces
Chile spiced oranges and cucumber to cleanse the palate
Never ending piles of dishes waiting to be washed by a myriad of women’s hands
It was an amazing couple of days! And these still lifes only begin to tell the story. I promise more, but in the meantime, check out Oaxaca-The Year After.
The Women’s March Oaxaca was an overwhelming success! The sun was shining, the sky was blue, pussy hats were present, and estimates put the crowd at almost 2,000 people from the USA, Canada, Mexico, and a few other countries. We even made the front page of Noticias, one of Oaxaca’s major daily newspapers.
I was helping to hold the lead banner, so my photos only begin to tell the story of this amazing event. To tell you the truth, I got teary eyed at the feeling of solidarity from those who marched, those on the sidewalks, and those watching from windows and doorways.
Why did I march? I marched because I want a future for my grandchildren that is not based on hate, fear, and environmental catastrophe.
I marched because, in the 7+ years I have lived in Oaxaca, I have been treated with kindness, generosity, and respect and I want the same for Mexicans and all other immigrants (with and without papers) living in the USA.
I marched because I believed those words on the Statue of Liberty my 8th grade teacher, Mrs. Robinson, had us memorize:
The New Colossus
By Emma Lazarus
Not like the brazen giant of Greek fame, With conquering limbs astride from land to land; Here at our sea-washed, sunset gates shall stand A mighty woman with a torch, whose flame Is the imprisoned lightning, and her name Mother of Exiles. From her beacon-hand Glows world-wide welcome; her mild eyes command The air-bridged harbor that twin cities frame.
“Keep, ancient lands, your storied pomp!” cries she With silent lips. “Give me your tired, your poor, Your huddled masses yearning to breathe free, The wretched refuse of your teeming shore. Send these, the homeless, tempest-tost to me, I lift my lamp beside the golden door!”
See the Women’s March Oaxaca website for more photos, videos, and press reports.