From restaurants to street food to home cooks, for the last seven weeks I have been making up for eight months away from my favorite Oaxacan food.
Molcajete de Aguachile – Asador Bacanora, Oaxaca de Juárez
Camarones al Mezcal – Asador Bacanora, Oaxaca de Juárez
Sopa de Flor de Calabaza & Quesadilla – Tlamanalli, Teotitlán del Valle
Camaron Baja – Taco Sireno, Oaxaca de Juárez
Empanada de Amarillo filling – El Buen Sasón, San Antonino Castillo Velasco
Empanada de Amarillo – El Buen Sasón, San Antonino Castillo Velasco
Tamales de Mole Amarillo – Emilia Gonzalez Martinez, Teotitlán del Valle
Unwrapped Tamal de Mole Amarillo – Emilia Gonzalez Martinez, Teotitlán del Valle
Mole Negro simmering on stove – Emilia Gonzalez Martinez, Teotitlán del Valle
Mole Negro served over hen with rice – Emilia Gonzalez Martinez, Teotitlán del Valle
And then there was Barbacoa de Chivo at Adolfa’s stall in the Tlacolula de Matamoros mercado. It smelled so good and I was so hungry, I forgot to take a photo! However, most of the time I’ve been dining at home on tamales from the gal around the corner and my own version of empanadas made with hot-off-the-comal tortillas from the gal across the street.
Three-plus weeks in el norte has me eating well but missing the flavors of Oaxaca. Thus, my blogging fingers and thoughts have turned back to the Cena de Honor Beny Galguau, a dinner honoring traditional ceremonial dishes, that I attended on May 25, 2023 at the Centro Gastronómico de Oaxaca.
First the Entradas (Appetizers)…
Tostadita Ejuteca.
Bocado crujiente de maíz nuevo con queso de puerco.
Empanadita de San Antonino Castillo Velasco con chilito de agua.
Ensalada fresca de lechuga, verdolagas, berro y aderezo de mermelada de chile.
Espesado de guías cono elotitos tiernos de milpa.
Followed by the Platos Fuertes (Main Dishes)…
Costilla de cerdo en su batea de salsa de chapulín.
Festín de moles (coloradito y negro).
Finally, as if we all weren’t already stuffed, the Postres (Desserts)…
Nieve de limón con tuna y brisa de albahaca; Nicuatole en hoja de totomoxtle; Gaznate de Etla con turrón y miel.
And, there were traditional bebidas (beverages), both alcoholic and non: Mezcall Diamante Zapoteco, Mezcal El Joven Viejo, Cerveza de Piña, Agua de Limón Rayado en su Punto, Café de Olla con Perfume de Canela, Té de Poleo (which was a perfect palate cleanser), Tejate de Cacao, and Chocolate Atole con su Espuma de Cacao.
Cocineras tradicionales.
Needless to say, the traditional cooks were the shining lights of the evening.
The rainy season, which came early this year and has disappeared for the past two weeks, has brought a plethora of purslane (verdolaga en español) to the rooftop garden. Most every planter and pot is filled with this uninvited, but much welcome, herb. And, it always inspires me to be a little more creative in the kitchen.
Volunteer purslane/verdolaga filling an unused garden pot on the rooftop terrace.
Taco filled with barbacoa, avocado, lettuce, purslane/verdolaga, and pickled red onions.
Fusilli with carrots, avocado, and purslane/verdolaga.
Purslane/verdolaga garnishing black beans.
Volunteer purslane/verdolaga in the giant pot that is home to my magnolia tree and terracotta bird.
Purslane is not only versatile and delicious, WebMD sings its praises when it comes to its health benefits.
I realized I haven’t tempted your taste buds with any food porn this year. From fine restaurants to street food, I’ve been eating out a lot and the following are just a small sampling. Actually, they are from the few times I remembered to take out my phone or camera and snap a photo before “digging in.”
February 1, 2023 – Pizza at Cafe Bistro Epicuro in Oaxaca city center.
February 8, 2023 – Guacamole at Con Vista al Mar in Barrio de Jalatlaco.
February 22, 2023 – Salad at Biznaga in Oaxaca city.
April 2, 2023 – Empanada at our favorite street stall in San Antonino Castillo. Velasco.
April 27, 2023 – Taco at Humar in Oaxaca city center.
May 3, 2023 – Tacos at Casa Oaxaca in Oaxaca city center.
June 8, 2023 – Tomato salad at Levadura de Olla in Oaxaca city center.
June 10, 2023 – Hamburger at Carn&Voro in Oaxaca city.
While there are no photos from March, I can assure you, I did not starve!
I know, the recent blog posts have been few and far between — and they will continue to be so for a couple of weeks. After twelve years, I am moving across town to a new-to-me, but old to the city, neighborhood. In the meantime, enjoy photos from our recent comida at the Tierra Antigua cocina de humo (traditional outdoor kitchen).
Tierra Antigua cocinera, Carina SantiagoSopa de guíasTortillas hot off the comalMole almendradoKalisa and the sheepNieve de mango
Stay tuned for news from the new Casita Colibrí neighborhood and home.
As I mentioned in my last blog post, I’m alive and well and, at long last, in California — my childhood home, to be exact. While I’m loving spending time with family, seeing friends, and happily able being able to wash my clothes in my own washer and dryer, it also means I’m having to cook. Looking back with envy at the meals prepared by my amiga, vecina, and cocinera extraordinaire, Kalisa.
February 12 2021 – Vegetables, queso panela, and basmati rice.
February 15 2021 – Codillo, mole, beans, and salsa.
February 24, 2021 – Eggplant and spinach lasagne.
February 28, 2021 – Duck pozole.
March 2, 2021 – Duck tostada.
March 7, 2021 – Leftovers of chard, broccolini, potatoes, and black beans.
March 8, 2021 – Chicken mole.
March 12, 2021 – Salad of Pochote bounty.
March 25, 2021 – Marinated chicken, green salad, basmati rice, and green salsa.
April 7, 2021 – Michoacán tacos with flores de frijol.
April 10, 2021 – Michoacán las corundas.
April 11, 2021 – Chicken tacos.
As you will note, the occasional vegetarian meal popped up over the past couple of months on Kalisa’s menu, along with inspiration from the recent visit to Oaxaca by Cynthia Martínez, chef owner of La Conspiración 1809 in Morelia, Michoacán. All delicious and works of art!
Easter Sunday, Peter Cottontail, with a little help from his friends, hippity hopped his way to Casita Colibrí, bringing platters full of Easter joy.
Easter eggs dyed with hibiscus, chili, turmeric, and beets with designs imprinted by cilantro, parsley, epazote and bougainvillea.
Marinated and roasted pork shoulder with organic baby carrots, potatoes, and shallots from the Sierra Norte.
Peter Cottontail’s favorite salad of radishes, cucumber, bell peppers, onions, and lettuce.
Choux pastry filled with creamy coffee with caramelized peanut cream.
A muchisimas gracias to my many-times-mentioned friend, neighbor, and talented cocinera, Kalisa, who dyed the eggs and prepared all but the dessert. The latter yummy decadent delight was purchased from Masea Trigo y Maíz. To quote another rabbit, “That’s all folks!”
(ps) My alebrije rabbit is by Bertha Cruz from San Antonio Arrazola, Oaxaca.
It’s been a whole month, so I figured it’s about time to again showcase the culinary creations by my friend, neighbor, and cocinera extraordinaire, Kalisa. If you can’t take the mouthwatering temptation, I advise you to step away from the blog post now.
January 4, 2021 – Flor de Frijolón salad.
January 4, 2021 – Pork pozole.
January 10, 2021 – Quiche Lorraine.
January 10, 2021 – Chicken wings.
January 17, 2021 – Cassoulet with duck, sausage, pork, and organic French Tarbais beans.
January 23, 2021 – Picadillo stuffed cabbage leaves.
February 3, 2021 – Pan seared Norwegian salmon in brown butter lemon sauce accompanied by baby new potatoes and carrots.
February 3, 2021 – Mixed berry tart.
Just so you know, the last two are not everyday fare — they were for my birthday. (Please, don’t ask.) I think Kalisa outdid herself!
Today, besides being Groundhog Day, it is the Christian holy day, Día de la Candelaria (aka, Candlemas, Presentation of Jesus at/in the Temple, and Feast of the Purification of the Virgin). In Mexico, tradition calls for families to bring their Niño Dios (baby Jesus), decked out in new clothes, to the church to be blessed. Alas, in the time of Covid-19, the Servicios de Salud de Oaxaca (health department) has called upon Oaxaqueños not to gather this year and, while the doors of the Cathedral will be open, the faithful are asked to stay home if their Niño Dios was blessed in previous years.
Tamales from Levadura de Olla Restaurante: Tamal Adobo, Tamal Chile Ajo, Tamal Mole Negro, Chancleta Guajolote, and Tamal de Fiesta(not in order)
Custom also calls for the person who bit into the baby Jesus figurine hidden in the Rosca de Reyes (3 Kings Cake) during Día de los Reyes Magos to host a tamalada on Candelaria. As I write, tamales are steaming all over the state. The virus will not stop the cocineras of Oaxaca from rising before the crack of dawn to make and serve tamales. As I previously mentioned, I munched down on a figurine. And I wasn’t the only one — my neighbor and friend Kalisa also had the “pleasure.” I must confess, we took the easy way out and pre-ordered our tamales from Levadura de Olla Restaurante. I can’t wait to eat them!
What an unusual yet lovely (and delicious) Thanksgiving 2020 was.
Cranberry/pear relish bubbling on the stove.
After the fact, I realized this was only the second Thanksgiving I’ve shared with just one other person. Childhood dinners were filled with parents, grandparents, aunts, uncles, and cousins. Even the Thanksgiving I spent in Denmark, the international school I attended prepared a turkey with all the fixin’s dinner — to the delight of the American students and curiosity of the other international students and Danes. Once married, we hosted or joined family and/or friends — and that has been my tradition ever since, even here in Oaxaca.
Sage dressing with whole wheat bread, celery, onions, and carrots.
Keeping Covid-19 protocols in mind, Kalisa, my (now famous) friend, neighbor, and cocinera extraordinaire and I decided we would persevere in an attempt to carry on with an albeit downsized celebration of just the two of us on my terrace. For the main course, we ruled out turkey, discarded chicken as not special, and settled on repeating the success of rabbit — concluding it would go well with my cranberry/pear relish and sage dressing. And, who knows? The indigenous peoples may have proffered rabbit to the starving and clueless foreigners.
Roast rabbit à la Kalisa.
So, we made our own pilgrimage up to Pochote Mercado Orgánico in Colonia Reforma to again purchase the criollo rabbit Kalisa would be preparing. A couple of days later, at Mercado IV Centenario, we happened upon camotes/sweet potatoes to be used for her “pumpkin” cheesecake. Unlike my first several Thanksgivings here, when bags of fresh cranberries could only be found at Mercado Hidalgo, I was able to purchase all the ingredients for my cranberry/pear relish at Mercado Benito Juárez. As for the dressing, I still had some Bell’s Seasoning brought from the USA a couple of years ago, and the rest was easily found. Looking at our menu, it occurred to me that perhaps we needed something green. That was easily solved with some baby lettuce from my garden (alas, no photo).
Pumpkin cheesecake with caramel topping.
And so it was, a Thanksgiving where two friends gave thanks for our very present blessings — friendship, health, abundance, and being welcomed into the beautiful and loving arms of Oaxaca.
Two friends giving thanks on a rooftop terrace in Oaxaca.
By the way, the place settings were for photo-op purposes only. We retired with filled plates and glasses of wine to the south end of the terrace where we could sit and eat 8 feet apart.
It’s been a whole month since I’ve delved into the food porn photo archive. With Thanksgiving only two days away, what better time for a few of my dinners from the past ten days.
Rabbit served on a bed of fettuccine.
Eggplant, anchovy, and goat cheese pizza topped with arugula.
Roasted chicken served with tortillas (of course), guacamole, pickled red onions, and green salsa.
And, what better time to express my gratitude for having such a great and talented friend and neighbor who delights in sharing her culinary artistry with others. ¡Muchisimas gracias Kalisa!
Given that the socially distanced dining on the terrace ice was broken earlier in the month, the entertaining continued with the arrival of L, my BFF since we were twelve. Kalisa — neighbor, friend, and cocinera extraordinaria – rose to the occasion and the three of us have been eating extremely well.
October 6, 2020 – Chicken and black bean memelas, huitlachoche and corn empanadas, salsas, and sautéed squash.
October 8, 2020 – Heirloom tomatoes, pickled onions, and queso fresco, accompanied by Parmesan Crisps hand carried from California.
October 8, 2020 – Guacamole, pickled onions, salsas, and peanuts.
October 8, 2020 – Tostadas of chicken and pork with spinach and guacamole.
October 14, 2020 – Chicken mole accompanied by rice and black beans.
October 18, 2020 – Salad of cucumber, onion, and peppers.
October 18, 2020 – Squash, fresh basil, huitlacoche, and cheese lasagna.
Lest you be concerned about the intervening dinners, the quantities were huge, doggie bags were taken back to our respective apartments, and leftovers continue to be happily consumed.
Last week, after seven months of Casita Colibrí being a visitor free zone, friends from California came to dine. Socially distanced seating was set up at the south end of the terrace.
The counter at the north end of the terraced was used as the staging area for food and drink.
We took turns selecting the fabulous fare prepared by my previously mentioned friend and neighbor, Kalisa.
Blue corn tortillas, guacamole, cucumber, and salsas to start.Huitlacoche quesadillas.Poblano chile strips with goat cheese.Chicken wings.
Masks stayed on, except when eating, and early evening quickly turned into night as we talked and laughed and enjoyed each other’s company. It had been so long!
Kalisa, the visiting couple, and I had so much fun, we did it again two nights later. And, yes, there was mezcal both nights!
Mexican Peso Converter
View From Casita Colibrí 