Except for the patter of rain and the sound of the occasional car on wet pavement, all is gray and quiet on this Good Friday in my San Francisco Bay Area home. I miss the colorful and creative sights and sounds of Viernes Santo in Oaxaca. Thus, today finds me looking back to the Santo Viacrucis (Holy Way of the Cross) procession last year in Barrio de Jalatlaco on Viernes Santo.
8th Station of the Cross where Jesús meets the women of Jerusalem.
1st Station of the Cross where Jesús is condemned to death.
7th Station of the Cross where Jesús falls for the second time.
Jesús carrying the cross through the streets of the Jalatlaco neighborhood.
John the Baptist follows Jesús.
Mary Magdalene following Jesús.
María heading toward her final encuentro (meeting) with her son.
Jesús enroute to his final encuentro (meeting) with his mother.
María and Jesús in their final encuentro (meeting).
While I don’t subscribe to any religion, the people of Oaxaca, their devotion, and their creativity in celebrating their faith always moves me.
Speakers blared through the streets of Barrio de Jalatlaco yesterday morning announcing a celebration of Día de Reyes Magos in the church atrium at 5 PM. There were photo-ops galore as neighbors gathered; Melchor, Gaspar, and Baltazar posed; boxes of Roscas de Reyes (Three Kings cake) were delivered; politicians spoke; cake was eaten; and toys were distributed.
Tradition dictates the person(s) finding a baby Jesus figurine hidden in their slice of cake must host a tamalada (tamales party) on February 2nd, Día de la Candelaria (Candlemas). As always seems to happen, I was a “lucky” recipient of the plastic Jesus. Alas, I will be in California. Hmmm… maybe a shopping trip to Cardenas Markets is on the agenda.
Attention residents and visitors: After a much lamented three year absence, Amate Books has once again opened its doors to book lovers — this time at Aldama 318, in the hip and happening Barrio de Jalatlaco. Yes, my neighborhood, so I’m especially happy.
The new store is bright and welcoming with well stocked shelves of (mostly) English language fiction, nonfiction, and children’s books. In addition, as in the past, there is a carefully curated selection of folk art, small gift items, and (drum roll, please) postcards.
Even La Catrina, in her sartorial splendor, has returned to welcome patrons, old and new.
Today, stepping through the door, being greeted by the smiling face of longtime employee Carmen, and surrounded by knowledge and imagination, I felt a sense of peace and tranquility from the chaos of today’s world. If or when you are in town, make sure to stop by and support this local treasure. The store is open daily. (I’ll post the hours when I know for sure.) In the meantime, a big thank you to Henry Wangeman for reopening Amate Books!
I got out of Dodge (aka, San Diego) last Friday morning, August 18, 2023 — just in time. Happiness was missing the historic arrival in California of Tropical Storm Hilary. Whew!!!
August 19, 2023 – walking down 5 de mayo in Barrio de Jalatlaco on my way to buy produce at Xiguela.
August 19, 2023 – Evening wedding calenda in Barrio de Jalatlaco.
August 20, 2023 – mural seen on the way to Mercado de la Merced.
August 23. 2023 – View from the swimming pool of Hotel Victoria.
Life has been pretty good up here in el norte. The joy of having my whole family together has been immeasurable and the weather has been unusually, for this time of year in the San Francisco Bay Area, spectacular. (For those unaware of Northern California coastal weather, I give you the line attributed, albeit falsely, to Mark Twain, “The coldest winter I ever spent was a summer in San Francisco.”) Given the sun, blue sky, and warm temperatures, I’ve spent a lot of time outdoors — gardening, eating, and sitting watching the hummingbirds — just like Oaxaca! But I miss the colibries that also can be found on the walls of my neighborhood.
With thunder, lightening, torrential rain, and a massive hail storm, April “showers” heralded the end of the dry season — in a most spectacular way!
The evening of April 14 the city of Oaxaca and surrounding villages were hit with a freak hailstorm. Needless to say, I closed my doors and windows, unplugged critical electronics, and hunkered down inside until the storm had passed — which seemed like at least two hours. When I eventually ventured out, I found the apartment complex patio five inches deep in water, hail piled outside my rooftop laundry room door, and a garden of plants with shredded leaves.
Then two nights ago another massive thunderstorm hovered over us for hours, turning streets into rivers and sending trees toppling all over the city.
The day before yesterday, there was water, water everywhere and lots of drops to drink! It was the fourth Friday of Lent, Día de la Samaritana, an “only in Oaxaca” celebration.
Xocote restaurant on Calle Antequera, Barrio de Jalatlaco.
The Day of the Good Samaritan was inspired by the Gospel of John story in the New Testament when a tired and thirsty Jesus, on his way to Galilee, asks a Samaritan woman at Jacob’s Well in Sychar for some water. The request was highly unusual because, according to the Old Testament, “Jews regarded the Samaritans as foreigners and their attitude was often hostile.” The woman complied with his request and the rest is history.
Laboratorio de Análisis Clínicos Qualis on 5 de mayo, Barrio de Jalatlaco.
Celebrating the Good Samaritan in Oaxaca began in the atria of churches at the end of the 19th century and is a popular and much-loved tradition. People of all ages, from small children to grandparents, line up at bougainvillea and palm decorated booths in front of churches, restaurants, businesses, and schools for the traditional Día de la Samaritana free flavored waters.
Santa Hierba restaurant, 5 de mayo, Barrio de Jalatlaco.
By noon, masses of people had gathered in the atrium of the local church, Templo de San Matías Jalatlaco, where two long rows of tables, under the shade of the tented atrium, were lined with massive bowls filled with colorful aguas on offer. However, I preferred to avoid the crowds and wander through the streets of my Jalatlaco neighborhood.
Miscelánea Tepeaca, 5 de mayo, Barrio de Jalatlaco.
By the way, we are not talking plain water, these are divinely flavored aguas frescas made with fresh fruits, herbs, flowers, and more — jamaica (hibiscus), horchata, chilacayote (squash), tamarindo, sandia (watermelon), and tejate.
Espacio Ermita Arte y Diseño, Calle Hidalgo, Barrio de Jalatlaco.
In the name of the environment, an appeal was made for people to bring their own cups. And, I think a majority complied!
Asador Bacanora, 5 de mayo, Barrio de Jalatlaco.
After almost two hours, three aguas, and being surrounded by smiling people enjoying this celebration of generosity, I returned home with my heart full of gratitude for this Oaxacan tradition. I love this day and the message it imparts and the way it brings neighbors together.
Why I love Oaxaca, reason number 2,022 — music is heard everywhere and seemingly all the time. November 22 is Día de Santa Cecilia who, among other things, is the patron saint of musicians.
July 4, 2022 – Convite for the Preciosa Sangre de Cristo patronal festival in Teotitlán del Valle
July 23, 2022 – Guelaguetza Desfile Magesterial in Barrio de Jalatlaco
July 9, 2022 – Calenda celebrating the anniversary of La Mano Magica Galería in Oaxaca de Juárez
September 16, 2022 – Independence Day parade in Oaxaca de Juárez
August 25, 2022 – 35th birthday celebration in Barrio de Jalatlaco
August 20, 2022 – Strolling Tuna Band from URSE in Barrio de Jalatlaco
And, since this post honors musicians, how about a little music…
Traditional teponaxtles and chirimía played outside the panteón of San Antonino Castillo Velasco on Palm Sunday 2022 and brass band in Barrio de Jalatlaco, Oaxaca de Juárez on the 6th Friday of Lent, Viernes de Dolores 2022.
A big muchisimas gracias to musicians all over the world who provide the soundtrack of our lives.
Every Día de Muertos, I love seeing the artistry of public ofrendas, feel honored being welcomed into the homes of friends and placing pan de muertos on their very personal ofrendas, and enjoy assembling my own ofrenda to departed loved ones. (Click on each image to see the details.)
Mitla – Ofrenda in the home of master weaver Arturo Hernandez Quero.
Mitla – Public ofrenda in the main plaza. Note the intricately decorated pan de muertos.
Teotitlán del Valle – Ofrenda of the weaver Pedro Montaño and cocinera Carina Santiago family in the Tierra Antigua restaurant and gallery.
Teotitlán del Valle – Ofrenda in the family home of weaver Zacarias Ruiz and Emilia Gonzalez.
Barrio de Jalatlaco – Private ofrenda open for public viewing at the corner of 5 de mayo and La Alianza.
Barrio de Jalatlaco – Family adding the finishing touches to their ofrenda. (They graciously gave me permission to take the photo.)
Casita Colibrí – My ofrenda in the daylight.
Casita Colibrí – My ofrenda at night awaiting the arrival of my departed.
I love the spicy and welcoming scents of cempasúchitl (marigolds), lacy flor de muerto from the Sierra Norte, pan de muertos, and incense of copal.
Barrio de Jalatlaco played host to an invasion of tunas a few weeks ago. No, not the smelly fish or succulent cactus fruit. These were of the 13th century strolling university musician variety. The tradition of Tuna bands originated in Spain and Portugal, spread to Latin American, and remains alive and well in Oaxaca. Thus, the Tunas from the Universidad Regional del Sureste (URSE), one of four groups participating in the Barrio’s first Callejoneada, gathered on my block.
They serenaded the neighborhood.
We followed these pied pipers.
How could we not, with exuberant ballads like this?
Mexican Peso Converter
View From Casita Colibrí 