The Secretaría de las Culturas y Artes de Oaxaca (Secretariat of the Cultures and Arts of Oaxaca) and the Comité de Autenticidad (Authenticity Committee) have selected this year’s Guelaguetza delegations from video taken from the years 2017 to 2019. The performances will be broadcast by CORTV, both on television and on their Facebook page.
July 20, 2020 – Morning delegations and dances:
July 20, 2020 – Evening delegations and dances:
July 27, 2020 – Morning delegations and dances:
July 27, 2020 – Evening delegations and dances:
This year’s poster image is the work of Montserrat Alhelí Steck Ortiz and was chosen out of 67 entries. Titled, Trenzando Magía (Braiding Magic), according to this article the artist explained that she wanted to begin with the image of woman as symbol of mother earth and giver of all wealth — exemplified by the peasant working the land and tending Oaxaca’s iconic maguey. The image then illustrates the be-ribboned braids reaching out to capture the joy found in the colors, textures and dances of the eight regions of Oaxaca.
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Travel & Tourism | Tagged braids, calendar of events, Guelaguetza, Guelaguetza 2020, Guelaguetza 2020 delegations, Guelaguetza 2020 poster, List of delegations, Mexico, Oaxaca, popular travel destinations, schedule of events, virtual Guelaguetza 2020 | 2 Comments »
It’s July, corn planting time and “Mes de la Guelaguetza” (month of the Guelaguetza) — a time when Oaxaca recognizes and celebrates the sixteen indigenous groups whose languages, traditions, and maize cultures long predate the arrival of the Spanish conquistadors and permeate the character of the state. However, all is quiet in the streets. Due to the dreaded virus, there will be no live and in-person Guelaguetza 2020.
All is not lost; the “máxima fiesta” and its ancillary activities have gone virtual — broadcasting on TV and online.
Click on each image to read the dates and details for the book presentations, art exhibitions, lectures, and music and dance performances — including how to watch.
Villa de Zaachila is even holding a virtual Guelaguetza 2020, accessed from the Facebook page, “Guelaguetza Virtual Zaachila 2020”
It may not be up close and personal, but if you are missing the sights and sounds of la Guelaguetza, it’s better than nothing! And, if the above isn’t enough, you might want to scroll through my Guelaguetza blog posts from previous years.
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Travel & Tourism | Tagged Bani Stui Gulal, Donají la Leyenda, Guelaguetza, Guelaguetza 2020 schedule of events, Legend of Donají, Mexico, Oaxaca, popular travel destinations, posters, Villa de Zaachila, virtual Guelaguetza 2020 | 4 Comments »
Up until last week, under semáforo rojo (red stoplight), dining at Oaxaca’s much celebrated restaurants had been prohibited and food-to-go became a new and popular option. The Facebook group, Taste Of Oaxaca! soon was filled with restaurant takeout and/or delivery menu options. It was really quite wonderful to see how creative restaurants and chefs became in trying to maintain their businesses, keep staff employed, and meet the needs of their clientele. However, I was blessed with an alternative — mi amiga y vecina (my friend and neighbor), Kalisa, whose passion is cooking and sharing her flavorful fare.
Roast chicken with saffron rice
Homemade pizza with chorizo, cheeses, mushrooms, arugula, and more
Pork loin stuffed with prunes, jamón, spinach, and secret herbs and spices
And, leftovers in my freezer
Pork and beans (with the requisite) epazote
Chicken with broccoli, new potatoes, and olives
Grilled Mennonite cheese sandwich with argula and (Boulenc’s) kimchi
Goat cheese lasagne
While living in the age of Covid-19, at least I’ve been eating well — and this is just a small sample! By the way, rumor has it that tonight I will be going up and over the rooftop with my bowl in hand for pozole rojo. Yummm…
Posted in Casita Colibrí, Food, Restaurants, Travel & Tourism | Tagged cocineras, cooks, coronavirus fallout, COVID-19 fallout, food, food porn, home cooking, Kalisa Wells, leftovers, Mexico, Oaxaca, photos, terrrace dining | 12 Comments »
A sampling of sites seen from the streets that have saved my sanity while living in the age of Covid-19.
Barrio de Xochimilco
Marcos Pérez/Lic. José Vasconcelos neighborhood
Calle Independencia entrance to Mercado IV Centenario
Calle Santo Tomás at the corner of José Lopez Alavez
Calle Marcos Pérez
Casa de Barro, Av. Reforma
These streets are made for walkin’ and that’s just what I do!
Posted in Creativity, Culture, Neighborhoods, Travel & Tourism | Tagged Mexico, murals, Oaxaca, photos, popular travel destinations, street art, urban art, wall art | 15 Comments »
When the rains come and the three African Tulip trees (Spathodea campanulata, Tulipán africano, Flame trees, Flame of the Forest) in my apartment complex begin blooming, even grey days are brightened.
As the name suggests, Tulipán africano are native to Africa and I was first captivated by them in the early 1980s when I watched the PBS series, The Flame Trees of Thika, based on the Elspeth Huxley memoir about her early years in Kenya.
Beginning the late 1800s, these ornamental beauties were introduced to other parts of the world — thriving and even becoming invasive in many areas of the tropics.
Bursting with brilliance and providing food and shelter to a multitude of hummingbirds battling for territory and mates, these creations of Mother Nature always beckon me to stop, gaze, and marvel.
Posted in Casita Colibrí, Flora, Gardens | Tagged African Tulip trees, Árbol de tulipán, Cee's Flower of the Day (FOTD) challenge, Flame Trees, flowers, Mexico, Oaxaca, photos, popular travel destinations, Spathodea campanulata, Tulipán africano | 17 Comments »
Even if you’re just going out for coffee, mask up!
A reminder from the shutters outside Café Brújula in Plaza Santo Domingo on Macedonio Alcalá. Artist: Mister D.
Posted in Creativity, Culture, Food, Restaurants, Travel & Tourism | Tagged Café Brújula, coronavirus fallout, COVID-19 fallout, cubrebocas, graphic arts, masks, Mexico, Mister D artist, Oaxaca, photos, skeletons street art | 8 Comments »
Does anyone remember the Abbott and Costello “Who’s on First?” baseball routine? If not, check out the link — it’s still pretty funny and, at least to me, speaks to the confusion regarding news of Oaxaca beginning to lift the “quédate en casa” orders.
Mexico is using a stoplight system (Semáforo) to illustrate the COVID-19 risk of spread, with rojo (red) being the highest level of contagion, thus only essential services allowed to operate and people instructed to stay home. Oaxaca is still at red and for the past three months, in addition to closed museums and canceled church services, shuttered restaurants, hotels, businesses, and street stalls have been the norm.
However, given much of the state’s population relies on the informal economy and there is essentially no social safety net, economic hardship pushed the governor to announce on Sunday a reopening of businesses (albeit with restrictions on capacity, mask wearing, etc.) beginning July 5. Then on Monday morning, merchant leaders announced they would be reopening on July 1.
No matter if it’s July 1 or 5, I’m continuing as if nothing has changed. You will not find me dining in restaurants, shopping for a new falda (skirt), or browsing in art galleries. And, according to an article in today’s NVI Noticias, some of the hoteliers are not one hundred percent on board, either. The (translated) headline read, “We could go bankrupt, but we are not going to expose lives while the light is red.” With this accelerated reopening, it’s no doubt going to get worse before it gets better. So, to all the people who are anxious to visit Oaxaca, I continue to say, “For your safety and the safety of Oaxaca, please stay away until the light turns green.”
Update: In an extraordinary session yesterday (July 1, 2020), the city council of Oaxaca de Juárez unanimously voted to to extend the restrictions and preventive measures against COVID-19 while the light continues to be red.
Posted in Economics, Health, Travel & Tourism | Tagged coronavirus fallout, COVID-19 fallout, health and safety, Mexico, Oaxaca, photos, popular travel destinations, reopening the economy, vendor stalls | 6 Comments »
When the outings are few and far between and limited to walking distance, I’m appreciating the views from and around Casita Colibrí even more.
June 3, 2020 – Templo de San Felipe Neri in early morning
June 3, 2020 – Jasmine in the afternoon
June 4, 2020 – Wind chimes in the late afternoon
June 5, 2020 – Crocosmia around noon
June 5, 2020 – Looking southeast over the city in early evening
Be safe and well and look for the beauty.
Posted in Casita Colibrí, Churches, Flora, Gardens, Travel & Tourism | Tagged crocosmia plant, flowers, Jasmine flowers, Mexico, Oaxaca, photos, Templo San Felipe Neri, terrace garden, views, wind chimes | 2 Comments »
This morning’s headline in NVI Noticias: Oaxaca revive pesadilla de los sismos en lo más álgido de la epidemia por COVID-19 (Oaxaca relives the nightmare of earthquakes in the height of the epidemic by COVID-19). I wasn’t in Oaxaca for the 8.1 earthquake September 7, 2017, so I don’t know what it felt like. However, I still have vivid memories of experiencing the magnitude 6.9 Loma Prieta earthquake in the San Francisco Bay Area. As scary as that one was, yesterday’s 7.5 temblor was definitely more violent and lasted longer.
The good news is I, my neighbors, and all my friends in Oaxaca are okay and the city sustained mostly minor damage. However, there is much devastation to roads, homes, and other structures closer to the epicenter near Huatulco. And, saddest of all, the death toll is now up to seven. For a more complete report, with dozens of photos, click on the article, Suman siete muertos por el terremoto.
Two months ago work stopped on the roof and bell tower of Templo de San José — due to virus restrictions on construction sites. This morning, workers returned to check out earthquake damage.
This, and the state of Oaxaca’s coronavirus statistics, like most of Mexico, continue to rise precipitously. And, unfortunately, many of the hospitals near the quake’s epicenter sustained damage. (Click on image to enlarge.)
Side by side statistics: June 19 and June 23. Grey=cases notified; green=negatives; orange=suspected; red=confirmed; turquoise=recovered; black=deaths
Oh, and did I mention, we have had massive rain storms the last two nights? We are all wondering what is next, locusts? 
Yikes, look what I found on my screen door this morning! At least in Oaxaca, we know what to do with chapulines (grasshoppers) — toast them on a comal with lime and salt. They are a great source of protein. Yummm…
Posted in Buildings, Churches, Food, Health, Science & Nature, Tragedy, Travel & Tourism | Tagged Chapulines, construction workers, coronavirus fallout, COVID-19 fallout, disasters, earthquake, grasshoppers, Mexico, Oaxaca, photos, Templo de San José | 8 Comments »
From the streets of Oaxaca, Benito Juárez is masked and throwing hand sanitizer, as the Covid-19 denier-in-chief looks down from el norte.
Police violence and protests captured on cell phones and broadcast live on the internet fill our screens and walls.
George Floyd, plus countless others, are dead but not forgotten.
There is no joy in Oaxaca as the twin plagues of the virus and racism command our consciousness here, there, and everywhere.
Posted in Creativity, Culture, People, Tragedy, Travel & Tourism, Violence | Tagged Benito Juárez image, coronavirus fallout, COVID-19 fallout, George Floyd image, Mexico, Oaxaca, photos, protest art, stencils, street art, urban art, URTARTE, wall art | 8 Comments »
It was early morning in the garden and the clock was ticking. She isn’t called a Night Blooming Cereus for nothing.
First one approached.
It was followed by others. However, these weren’t friends and this wasn’t a party, it was seriously cereus work.
That is about as exciting as it gets at Casita Colibrí during these days of Covid-19 under the “semáforo rojo” — the red stoplight — as contrasted with orange, yellow, and the much longed for green. Stay safe!
Posted in Casita Colibrí, Environment, Flora, Gardens | Tagged bees, Cee's Flower of the Day (FOTD) challenge, Epiphyllum hookeri, flowers, Mexico, Night Blooming Cereus, Oaxaca, photos, plants, terrace garden | 12 Comments »
Last Sunday morning’s walk took us up and across Niños Heroes (aka, highway 190) into Barrio de Xochimilco and Colonia La Cascada. The (albeit sporadic) rains have begun, the field-burning has ended, and planting has begun. Thus, the air was fresh and the sky was varying shades of blue — depending on direction and hour. Humans and Mother Nature showed off their creativity. So, we kept walking…
It was a beautiful day in the neighborhood!
Posted in Creativity, Culture, Neighborhoods, Travel & Tourism | Tagged Barrio de Xochimilco, bird images, bougainvillea, bugambilia, Colonia La Cascada, light and shadows, Mexico, murals, photos, popular travel destinations, rooftop decor, street art, tinaco, urban art, wall art | 4 Comments »
There will be no dancing in the streets or up on Cerro del Fortín this year. Due to Covid-19, La Guelaguetza, Oaxaca’s “máxima fiesta” has been canceled. However, thanks to the artist Bouler (Uriel Barragán), a few of the dancers can be seen dancing on the walls of Barrio de Jalatlaco.
If his work looks familiar, it is because this image from two weeks ago is part of the above series. In addition, he also painted the mural honoring Macedonio Alcalá in Jardín Carbajal.
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Travel & Tourism | Tagged Barrio de Jalatlaco, China Oaxaqueña dancer, coronavirus fallout, COVID-19 fallout, Flor de piña dancer, Guelaguetza dancers, light and shadows, Mexico, murals, music, Oaxaca, photos, popular travel destinations, street art, urban art, Uriel Barragán Bouler, wall art | 6 Comments »
Dear friends and lovers of Oaxaca,
While the areas where you live may be loosening up on Covid-19 precautions, Oaxaca is not. Cases and deaths continue to rise at an alarming rate and, as a result, a few days ago the governor instituted a ten-day shelter-in-place order. Masks are mandatory in public, we are not to leave our homes except for groceries, medications, or medical treatment, limits have been put on bus service, and the hours and days of the mercados have been significantly reduced.
While tourism provides the economic life-blood of Oaxaca and restaurants, hotels, and artisans would welcome your business, the people and medical infrastructure cannot afford the Covid-19 virus that might come along with you and your dinero. Oaxaca is one of the poorest and most indigenous states in Mexico and, as a result of poverty and inadequate health care, it has high rates diabetes and heart disease — both high risk factors for coronavirus mortality.
While right now you can only dream about coming to Oaxaca, there are ways you can help. You can join those of us living here by financially helping out your Oaxacan friends, by donating to your preferred hotels and restaurants, and by placing an order with your favorite weaver, carver, or other artisan. Buying mezcal futures from traditional mezcaleros is even an option — and the bottles will be waiting for you when next you return.
While I have no place to wear it right now, I bought this beautiful rebozo (shawl) from the Mexican Dreamweavers. Patrice Perillie, the Dreamweavers’ Director, knew I’d been admiring and wanting one for years, so she recently contacted me to (gently) suggest that ordering one now would have a greater and much-needed financial impact on the cooperative’s members. It is made from brown coyuchi cotton, yarns dyed with indigo, purple tixinda, and red cochinilla, and woven by Amada Sanchez Cruz on a backstrap loom. Isn’t it stunning?
From the Mexican Dreamweavers “About” page on Facebook”
In the community of Pinotepa de Don Luis, situated on the Costa Chica of Oaxaca, artisans of Mixtec origin, masters in the art of weaving on back-strap looms, weave beautiful cloth that they use in different types of dress. There is the posahuanco which is a type of skirt of pre-hispanic origin; the huipil, a tunic dress used for special occasions; and the reboso, a shawl used by the women both for warmth and to carry things, including their babies!
The women weavers of this community have formed a cooperative called “Tixinda” which has over 60 women, both young and old, who are passing down the 3,000+ year old tradition of spinning and weaving from one generation to the next. In addition to producing their traditional dress, Tixinda also produces table linens, bed linens, throw pillows and bags, using both traditional and contemporary designs.
To view the Mexican Dreamweavers inventory and to buy, click their Facebook Shop
For more information, please contact Patrice Perillie, Director:
Telephone USA – (212) 629-7899
Telephone Mexico – (954) 102-1792
Email – mexicandreamweavers@hotmail.com
Posted in Creativity, Culture, Health, People, Textiles, Travel & Tourism | Tagged Amada Sanchez Cruz, clothing, coronavirus fallout, COVID-19 fallout, helping the local community, huipil, Mexican Dreamweavers, Mexico, Oaxaca, Patrice Perillie, photos, rebozos, shawls, textile traditions, Tixinda cooperative, weavers, woman wearing rebozo | 12 Comments »
Given the barrage of bad, sad, depressing, and infuriating news these days, I’m finding it difficult to string together more than a few words. However, who needs words when Mother Nature is speaking from my terrace — succulents and cactus to the rescue.
Quaqua
Monadenium
Cleistocactus
Gymnocalycium
Jatropha podagrica
Wishing all health, safety, and a bounty of beauty!
Posted in Casita Colibrí, Flora, Gardens, Travel & Tourism | Tagged cactus flowers, Casita Colibrí, Cleistocactus flowers, flowers, Gymnocalycium flower, Jatropha podagrica, Mexico, Monadenium flowers, Oaxaca, photos, Quaqua flowers, succulent flowers, succulents, terrace garden | 15 Comments »
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